Just did this mod. Why would you NOT do this?? Used the new style coil....So simple, it's ridiculous and car runs better than ever. Great stuff. Now for more mods......
This thread totally rocks.
I've been sick of my car misfiring and am doing this modification.
Found some parts and can't wait to put it together. I have a spare stock coil pack to work on.
I'm usually all in favor of Junkyarding, but spare time is low and wanted more performance.
Link to summit racing "Screaming Eagle" coil pack for 2003 3.8L ford mustang: DUI 31737
deleted link to pigtail
I'll report back.
Last edited by bikesandcars1; 03-27-2012 at 01:08 PM. Reason: wrong parts given
I got the wrong connector? DOH!!!!
It took me an hour just to find that one that was close.
Did more research: found a couple valuable things:
Found the "Ford Techs" site with a printed guide to all of their connectors.
Using visuals from the pictures in this thread along with a comparison search, I identified the following ford part number:
Motorcraft WPT508 appears to be the connector for the "non plug wire mod" coil #31737
Motorcraft WPT207 appears to be the connector for the more round "plug wire mod required coil"
Link to purchasing pigtail: http://www.autopartstomorrow.com/par...coil-connector
I will report back.
Last edited by bikesandcars1; 03-27-2012 at 01:14 PM.
WPT-508, but this number has been succeeded by WPT-1009, and can be found all over the web for around $22
awesome link to the pigtail kit ID guide
(PAINT IT RED! credit to V-dubbulyuh)
This truly is the easiest coilpack mod you could do for these engines.
Stock wires, Stock ends, aftermarket spark strength, clean & low-profile install.
massive thanks to all those who tried this stuff out before it was proven effective.
Last edited by cyril279; 03-28-2012 at 01:15 PM. Reason: pic & link added
Davis Unified Ignition 31737 + WPT 508/1009 = success
I installed denso iridium plugs and gapped at .050 (!!!)
car idles smoother and pulls harder than it has in years. Pulls right to 6K rpm.
did the swap in wet/rain, which is when my car was acting up badly. started rough with old coil pack. after the swap (about 1 hour) it started right up, no more arcing or shorting.
I did the simplest installation. used the old base (not cut down).
fabricated a 16 gauge sheet metal piece to bolt the center post on the 31737 and used a small bolt to attach the plate to the coil. You could also drill the base and use a through bolt from the bottom (coil is raised off the cylinder head enough to clear).
Spacer was used to support coolant line (old exhaust flange nut). although the height of the bolt head is about 1/4 to 1/2" less than stock there were no interferances.
there's enough pics so I won't post.
Last edited by bikesandcars1; 03-31-2012 at 11:42 AM.
I ordered the screamin Demon coilpack and the connector 2 days ago and they both arrived today! I will be installing tonight
It says they recommend gapping at .065, but I also am running Iridium plugs which they say not to gap; can I leave them at stock gap (about .028 I believe) or should I open them up a bit? The iridium tip looks quite fragile.
So about a year ago my friend and I did this conversion on my vr. It runs great so far. Recently I've tried playing around with the spark plug gaps... It already had NGKR5s gapped at .35, then when I did my tune up I put on NGKR7IX plugs which give me a higher range since apparently the ford coilpack gives a much hotter spark. They come out of the box gapped at .35 but I regapped at .40 after reading up on other threads about coilpack conversions. It didnt make much difference than before except it driving a bit more responsive from the tune up. A couple of days after I regapped them at .50 and let me tell you, I can feel the difference. My MPGs went up from averaging 25-29 to 28-35 on the freeway. If you have a few hours to kill, I highly recomend doing this.
The coilpack was about $40 at the junkyard. DONT FORGET TO TAKE THE HARNESS PLUG WITH IT AND CUT ITS WIRES AT ABOUT 7'-8" just so you have anout to work with later. If you read though the previous posts it'll tell you which cars to look for the part in. I was lucky to find on with the long posts so I didn't have to modify my plug wires. Here are some pics I took while doing the whole project.
This is the coilpack itself.
Top view with the firing order.
Here's the harness from the ford coilpack attached to the original vw base with ICM. Notice how the wires from the harness are to be attached in order to the ICM.
Some people were complaining about clearance with the wire guides also I found out heat isn' the ICM's best friend. So I made a supporting plate that would give the coilpack and wires a better position in the engine bay. After I mocked it and knew everything would be ok in place I painted the plate black with some heat resistant enamel.
Here's how everything sat when installed. Make sure to run a ground wire from somwhere on the coilpack to the block.
Better view of the whole setup.
I know this "DIY" wasn't the most thorough one. But this is a very simple project. If you inform yourself enough, I don't think there will be a problem getting this right.
Did the swap with a DUI coilpack and a harness off a Taurus, very straight forward, car idles much better now.
Got some dual electrode Bosch silvers by mistake, can't change the gap with my DUI coilpack
I'll be buying some single electrode el-cheapo copper plugs and gapping them to 0.060 as soon as I get my chains done.
QUOTE=monoaural;77829796]It may seem kinda no brainer, but it is important that you dont allow the plug from the coilpack sit on the coolant hose. Mine wore through, and ran dry.[/QUOTE]
This winter going to build the 9mm Ford race wires for my conversion. I know there was some question about resitance with the stock coils and wires. Hope this was taken out of the mix when the stock crap was tossed out.
I just finished this up on my car, works well. I have a new set of BKR5EKU plugs, but it seems like It seems like most of you are using other plugs. Is this just because you've had better luck with the other types or because they are cheaper?
Here are the options I know of:
- NGK BKR5EKU (stock)
- NGK BKR5E
- Autolite 3924 (stock)
What's my best bet on a NA car?
Last edited by kelchm; 06-22-2012 at 03:20 AM.
amazing thread. gonna pick up a DUI coil online and plug from a junkie in the next month or so. My coil is currently working alright but its #3 in the car and want to get a more solid coil in before this one goes and takes the ICM with it. Thanks to all who helped make this thread great with pictures and experimentation.
I did the DUI coilpack conversion last month and it ran great for about 2 weeks, now my engine is flooding out and it won't stay running. I'm getting some spark because the car will run for a bit, than it dies out because of either too much fuel or not enough spark. I have a couple questions,
1) Will running too small of a gap on the plugs cause problems?
2) I saw someone says to ground the coilpack to the block, is this imperitive?
3) How can you tell if the ICM has gone bad?
Any gelp you guys can give is greatly appreciated!
i've had great success with it, i believe they come gapped at like .35 and thats what i leave them at. they are single prong.
i too would like to know if there is a better plug i should be using. should i be using a 2 prong plug as i've seen other people use?
i'm basically asking if there is a more efficient plug out there or the one i'm using is ideal.
LEASE THIS SPACE