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    Thread: Ford Coil Pack on VR6 with Pics.

    1. Junior Member navymech's Avatar
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      '96 Passat GLX, '97 Jetta GLS (RIP) '09 Jetta TDI, '07 GTI
      03-25-2012 10:21 PM #551
      Just did this mod. Why would you NOT do this?? Used the new style coil....So simple, it's ridiculous and car runs better than ever. Great stuff. Now for more mods......

    2. 03-27-2012 09:44 AM #552
      This thread totally rocks.

      I've been sick of my car misfiring and am doing this modification.

      Found some parts and can't wait to put it together. I have a spare stock coil pack to work on.

      I'm usually all in favor of Junkyarding, but spare time is low and wanted more performance.

      Link to summit racing "Screaming Eagle" coil pack for 2003 3.8L ford mustang: DUI 31737
      http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DUI-31737/?rtype=10

      deleted link to pigtail
      I'll report back.
      Last edited by bikesandcars1; 03-27-2012 at 01:08 PM. Reason: wrong parts given

    3. Member V-dubbulyuh's Avatar
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      03-27-2012 10:28 AM #553
      Quote Originally Posted by bikesandcars1 View Post

      Link to summit racing "Screaming Eagle" coil pack for 2003 3.8L ford mustang: DUI 31737
      http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DUI-31737/?rtype=10

      Link to pigtail for coil, carried by DIY autotune (I need to check fitment but it looks right on)
      DIY PC-2899F
      http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/w...ils-p-362.html

      I'll report back.
      That connector is incorrect (assuming you are going with the coil you posted). You need the rectangular connector.
      Last edited by V-dubbulyuh; 03-27-2012 at 10:32 AM.
      "OP sounds like a MKIV guy"

    4. 03-27-2012 12:48 PM #554
      I got the wrong connector? DOH!!!!

      It took me an hour just to find that one that was close.

      Did more research: found a couple valuable things:

      Found the "Ford Techs" site with a printed guide to all of their connectors.

      http://www.fordtechservice.dealercon...torcatalog.pdf

      Using visuals from the pictures in this thread along with a comparison search, I identified the following ford part number:

      Motorcraft WPT508 appears to be the connector for the "non plug wire mod" coil #31737

      Motorcraft WPT207 appears to be the connector for the more round "plug wire mod required coil"

      Link to purchasing pigtail: http://www.autopartstomorrow.com/par...coil-connector

      I will report back.
      Last edited by bikesandcars1; 03-27-2012 at 01:14 PM.

    5. 03-28-2012 07:19 AM #555
      Quote Originally Posted by bikesandcars1 View Post
      ...Motorcraft WPT508 appears to be the connector for the "non plug wire mod" coil #31737...
      yes, and you can still find them as WPT-508, but this number has been succeeded by WPT-1009, and can be found all over the web for around $22

      awesome link to the pigtail kit ID guide


      (PAINT IT RED! credit to V-dubbulyuh)

      This truly is the easiest coilpack mod you could do for these engines.
      Stock wires, Stock ends, aftermarket spark strength, clean & low-profile install.

      massive thanks to all those who tried this stuff out before it was proven effective.
      Last edited by cyril279; 03-28-2012 at 01:15 PM. Reason: pic & link added

    6. 03-28-2012 08:34 AM #556

    7. Member V-dubbulyuh's Avatar
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      03-28-2012 10:09 AM #557
      Quote Originally Posted by bikesandcars1 View Post
      I got the wrong connector? DOH!!!!

      Link to purchasing pigtail: http://www.autopartstomorrow.com/par...coil-connector

      That is the correct connector style for your application.
      "OP sounds like a MKIV guy"

    8. 03-29-2012 10:37 PM #558
      Quote Originally Posted by V-dubbulyuh View Post
      That is the correct connector style for your application.

      yes, and you can still find them as WPT-508, but this number has been succeeded by WPT-1009, and can be found all over the web for around $22
      Confirmed by successfull installation

      Davis Unified Ignition 31737 + WPT 508/1009 = success

      I installed denso iridium plugs and gapped at .050 (!!!)

      car idles smoother and pulls harder than it has in years. Pulls right to 6K rpm.

      did the swap in wet/rain, which is when my car was acting up badly. started rough with old coil pack. after the swap (about 1 hour) it started right up, no more arcing or shorting.

      I did the simplest installation. used the old base (not cut down).

      fabricated a 16 gauge sheet metal piece to bolt the center post on the 31737 and used a small bolt to attach the plate to the coil. You could also drill the base and use a through bolt from the bottom (coil is raised off the cylinder head enough to clear).

      Spacer was used to support coolant line (old exhaust flange nut). although the height of the bolt head is about 1/4 to 1/2" less than stock there were no interferances.

      there's enough pics so I won't post.
      Last edited by bikesandcars1; 03-31-2012 at 11:42 AM.

    9. Member R32Smoker's Avatar
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      04-12-2012 06:06 PM #559
      Quote Originally Posted by bikesandcars1 View Post

      Using visuals from the pictures in this thread along with a comparison search, I identified the following ford part number:

      Motorcraft WPT508 appears to be the connector for the "non plug wire mod" coil #31737

      Motorcraft WPT207 appears to be the connector for the more round "plug wire mod required coil"

      Link to purchasing pigtail: http://www.autopartstomorrow.com/par...coil-connector
      Thank you for adding this link! I've been looking everywhere for the connector, even tried the ford dealership and they said they couldn't get me the part

      I ordered the screamin Demon coilpack and the connector 2 days ago and they both arrived today! I will be installing tonight

      It says they recommend gapping at .065, but I also am running Iridium plugs which they say not to gap; can I leave them at stock gap (about .028 I believe) or should I open them up a bit? The iridium tip looks quite fragile.

    10. Member max302's Avatar
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      04-15-2012 12:20 PM #560
      DUI-31737 is on sale at Summit! 10$ Off! 45kV spark for the price of a new OEM Ford coilpack!

      http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DUI-31737/

      Mine is ordered, I'll keep you guys posted on how it turns out.

    11. Member Stangrcr1's Avatar
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      04-15-2012 06:21 PM #561
      Quote Originally Posted by max302 View Post
      DUI-31737 is on sale at Summit! 10$ Off! 45kV spark for the price of a new OEM Ford coilpack!

      http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DUI-31737/

      Mine is ordered, I'll keep you guys posted on how it turns out.
      Figures. Two weeks after I put in the Accel coil and made the wires...

    12. Member j1cam's Avatar
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      05-05-2012 06:07 PM #562
      So about a year ago my friend and I did this conversion on my vr. It runs great so far. Recently I've tried playing around with the spark plug gaps... It already had NGKR5s gapped at .35, then when I did my tune up I put on NGKR7IX plugs which give me a higher range since apparently the ford coilpack gives a much hotter spark. They come out of the box gapped at .35 but I regapped at .40 after reading up on other threads about coilpack conversions. It didnt make much difference than before except it driving a bit more responsive from the tune up. A couple of days after I regapped them at .50 and let me tell you, I can feel the difference. My MPGs went up from averaging 25-29 to 28-35 on the freeway. If you have a few hours to kill, I highly recomend doing this.

      The coilpack was about $40 at the junkyard. DONT FORGET TO TAKE THE HARNESS PLUG WITH IT AND CUT ITS WIRES AT ABOUT 7'-8" just so you have anout to work with later. If you read though the previous posts it'll tell you which cars to look for the part in. I was lucky to find on with the long posts so I didn't have to modify my plug wires. Here are some pics I took while doing the whole project.

      This is the coilpack itself.


      Top view with the firing order.


      Here's the harness from the ford coilpack attached to the original vw base with ICM. Notice how the wires from the harness are to be attached in order to the ICM.


      Some people were complaining about clearance with the wire guides also I found out heat isn' the ICM's best friend. So I made a supporting plate that would give the coilpack and wires a better position in the engine bay. After I mocked it and knew everything would be ok in place I painted the plate black with some heat resistant enamel.


      Here's how everything sat when installed. Make sure to run a ground wire from somwhere on the coilpack to the block.


      Better view of the whole setup.


      I know this "DIY" wasn't the most thorough one. But this is a very simple project. If you inform yourself enough, I don't think there will be a problem getting this right.

    13. Member Ultramagnus0001's Avatar
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      05-22-2012 10:57 PM #563
      Like your pictures, very helpful
      You can get a smooth, quiet, floaty car and fall asleep waiting to get from point A to B, or enjoy getting there.
      To be good at racing, you have to change your name to Sebastien.

    14. Member j1cam's Avatar
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      05-31-2012 06:26 PM #564
      Thanks. Cheers.

    15. Member Justacar's Avatar
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      06-02-2012 05:27 PM #565
      Just increased my gap again to .038. Not pinging as of yet, and seems to pull a % harder

    16. Member max302's Avatar
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      06-02-2012 05:35 PM #566
      Did the swap with a DUI coilpack and a harness off a Taurus, very straight forward, car idles much better now.

      Got some dual electrode Bosch silvers by mistake, can't change the gap with my DUI coilpack

      I'll be buying some single electrode el-cheapo copper plugs and gapping them to 0.060 as soon as I get my chains done.

    17. Member monoaural's Avatar
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      A rabbit pickup ............__ ______l__\___``````````````` [@_______@_/
      06-15-2012 01:23 PM #567
      It may seem kinda no brainer, but it is important that you dont allow the plug from the coilpack sit on the coolant hose. Mine wore through, and ran dry.
      -Jon

    18. Member Justacar's Avatar
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      06-16-2012 08:43 AM #568
      QUOTE=monoaural;77829796]It may seem kinda no brainer, but it is important that you dont allow the plug from the coilpack sit on the coolant hose. Mine wore through, and ran dry.[/QUOTE]



      This winter going to build the 9mm Ford race wires for my conversion. I know there was some question about resitance with the stock coils and wires. Hope this was taken out of the mix when the stock crap was tossed out.

    19. Member kelchm's Avatar
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      06-22-2012 03:00 AM #569
      I just finished this up on my car, works well. I have a new set of BKR5EKU plugs, but it seems like It seems like most of you are using other plugs. Is this just because you've had better luck with the other types or because they are cheaper?

      Here are the options I know of:

      • NGK BKR5EKU (stock)
      • NGK BKR5E
      • Autolite 3924 (stock)



      What's my best bet on a NA car?
      Last edited by kelchm; 06-22-2012 at 03:20 AM.

    20. Member
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      07-02-2012 11:24 AM #570
      amazing thread. gonna pick up a DUI coil online and plug from a junkie in the next month or so. My coil is currently working alright but its #3 in the car and want to get a more solid coil in before this one goes and takes the ICM with it. Thanks to all who helped make this thread great with pictures and experimentation.

    21. Member R32Smoker's Avatar
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      07-10-2012 05:11 PM #571
      I did the DUI coilpack conversion last month and it ran great for about 2 weeks, now my engine is flooding out and it won't stay running. I'm getting some spark because the car will run for a bit, than it dies out because of either too much fuel or not enough spark. I have a couple questions,

      1) Will running too small of a gap on the plugs cause problems?
      2) I saw someone says to ground the coilpack to the block, is this imperitive?
      3) How can you tell if the ICM has gone bad?

      Any gelp you guys can give is greatly appreciated!

    22. Member UmbroVR6's Avatar
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      07-11-2012 10:58 AM #572
      Quote Originally Posted by kelchm View Post
      I just finished this up on my car, works well. I have a new set of BKR5EKU plugs, but it seems like It seems like most of you are using other plugs. Is this just because you've had better luck with the other types or because they are cheaper?

      Here are the options I know of:

      • NGK BKR5EKU (stock)
      • NGK BKR5E
      • Autolite 3924 (stock)



      What's my best bet on a NA car?
      i have been using the BKR5E (correct me if i'm wrong) the equivalent to stock but copper.

      i've had great success with it, i believe they come gapped at like .35 and thats what i leave them at. they are single prong.

      i too would like to know if there is a better plug i should be using. should i be using a 2 prong plug as i've seen other people use?

      i'm basically asking if there is a more efficient plug out there or the one i'm using is ideal.
      LEASE THIS SPACE

    23. Member R32Smoker's Avatar
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      07-13-2012 03:36 PM #573
      So it looks like my ICM has gone bad, would anyone advise against buying an inexpensive aftermarket coilpack and using the ICM, or would it be better to go with a used OEM one?

    24. Member max302's Avatar
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      07-13-2012 09:54 PM #574
      Quote Originally Posted by UmbroVR6 View Post
      i have been using the BKR5E (correct me if i'm wrong) the equivalent to stock but copper.

      i've had great success with it, i believe they come gapped at like .35 and thats what i leave them at. they are single prong.

      i too would like to know if there is a better plug i should be using. should i be using a 2 prong plug as i've seen other people use?

      i'm basically asking if there is a more efficient plug out there or the one i'm using is ideal.
      Efficiency is gained in gap. Most stock plugs are non-adjustable, I got Bosch dual electrode silvers and they aren't adjustable.

      Still looking for the cheapest copper plug around so I can gap that ish to friggin 0.06 or something.

    25. Member S1iver's Avatar
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      08-05-2012 01:19 PM #575
      I want to retain stock wires, which coilpack do i use on my AFP?
      ===========================
      2000 VW Golf GTI GLX VR6 - Satin Silver

      VRSociety Member #8

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