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    Thread: OFFICIAL: K04-001 Information Thread (click here before making another k04 thread)

    1. Member NOLA_VDubber's Avatar
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      01-28-2009 07:58 PM #1
      **************************************************
      **************************************************
      K04-001 FAQ:

      Q: What is a k04-001?

      Quote, originally posted by »
      It is a turbo that is capable of producing slightly more power than a k03s (~10-20whp). It is made by Borg-Warner and is almost exactly the same as the k03s externally.

      Q: What do I absolutely need to make one bolt on to my 1.8T?
      Quote, originally posted by »
      Unlike the k04-02X, the external dimensions, oil/coolant line fittings/etc. are all the same on the k04-001 and it will bolt right in place of your k03s...with one exception. The turbo inlet is a bit different, so you must upgrade to a silicone TIP (any k03s silicone TIP will work). Others have reported modifying the k03s TIP to work, but if you want to avoid the hassle, the silicone TIP will bolt right on.

      Q: What about software?
      Quote, originally posted by »
      You can run a tweaked k03s file, REVO stg2, GIAC k04-001 SW, APR k04 file, or Uni stg2+ (i'm not sure if there's a eurodyne specific file).

      Q: So what do i need to run this turbo on one of these files?
      Quote, originally posted by »
      At the very least, you'll need the turbo, a new silicone TIP for the k03s if you don't already have one, and an install kit from ECS tuning (see pic below). This includes replacement gaskets, crush washers, etc.

      Depending on the software you choose to run, you may also need a few more bits of hardware:
      TWEAKED K03S FILE
      If going this route, be prepared to spend a lot of time logging and playing with different hardware combonations to get things right. Even though you most certainly can bolt the k04 on and go on a standard k03s file, you will likely not see many benefits unless you add a little fueling. At the very least, i'd recomend you have a VAG-COM cable if you plan to do this.
      REVO STG 2: http://www.revotechnik.com/pro...D=329
      Required Hardware
      *A 4 bar fuel pressure regulator
      *A quality aftermarket performance exhaust system with high flow cat.
      *A good air intake induction system or filter recommended for best results.
      Optional Hardware
      *A de-cat exhaust system for race or track use
      *An aftermarket diverter valve
      *Select Plus switch
      GIAC K04 FILE: http://www.giacusa.com/programs.php?mpid=150
      Required Hardware:
      *380 cc injectors (real S3/225TT 380 or Deka 1 Siemens 380, Genesis 380)
      *225 TT 3inch OD MAF with real TT sensor not golf jetta (Part number: 06A906461EX)
      *Upgraded intercooler with less than 2 psi boost drop and IATs less than 50 deg. C. sustained.
      *K04-1 or E05 turbo
      *F - N75 valve works best
      *Intake: long tube CAIs or stock air boxes, or short if velocity stacked properly.
      *Green Coolant temp sensor.
      Recommended:
      *2.5-3.0 inch. turbo back exhaust with a quality CAT.
      *104 octane for best performance in Race mode. 100 Octane performs well if not blended with pump fuel.
      APR K04 FILE: http://www.goapr.com/products/tvk04.html
      This file is just like the Revo stg 2 file in that all that is required is the 4bar FPR
      UNITRONIC STG2+
      It's not listed on their website, but I think this file requires a VR6 MAF housing, 380cc injectors, and exhaust. I'll let someone from uni chime in to clarify.

      Q: What about a high flow manifold?
      Quote, originally posted by »
      Though not required, many decide to upgrade to the high flow mani at the same time. You may run in to limp mode problems depending on the software you are using, so do some research in the archives before buying one. The problem can usually be solved with a little tweaking and an overboost valve.

      Q: Where can i get a k04-001 from?
      Quote, originally posted by »
      Talk to Clay @ CTS Turbo, he's the man! Check out http://www.goapr.com for info on their specific kit. ECS also sells them.

      Q: Do you think a K04 swap is a good idea on a tiptronic-equipped car?
      Quote, originally posted by »
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...95655


      **************************************************
      **************************************************
      K03s/K04-001 SPECS & COMPARISON:
      Quote, originally posted by slappy_dunbar »
      5303-988-0053 (AKA K03s)
      Compressor part no. 5304 123 2029 (this wheel used in all* 2001+ 1.8t transversal and B6 longitudal)
      Compressor size code/Geometry K04-2075E
      Inducer: 38.1 (75% of exducer)
      Exducer: 51
      Tip height: 4.4
      Blades: 4 long/4 short
      Turbine part no. 5303-120-5037 (used in virtually all 2001+ K03)
      Exducer: 40.34
      Inducer: 45
      Tip height: 6.8
      Blades: 11 long
      5304-950-0001 (AKA K04-001)
      Compressor part no. 5304 123 2010 (this wheel also used in K04-15 upgrade for longitudal)
      Compressor size code/Geometry K04-2075E
      Inducer: 38.1 (75% of exducer)
      Exducer: 51
      Tip height: 4.4 (This information is not published; I'm making an educated guess based on the "E' geometry shared with -2029)
      Blades: 4 long/4 short (typical of E Geometry wheels)
      Turbine part no. 5304 120 5023 (used in K04-15 as well)
      Exducer: 42
      Inducer: 46
      Tip height: 7.6
      Blades: 11 long
      *excepting Audi 225TT

      K04-001 Compressor Map (taken from http://www.airwerksboosted.com/default.aspx)

      K04-001 Complete Parts list (courtesy of slappy_dunbar):
      http://www.frankenturbo.com/we...t.pdf
      **************************************************
      **************************************************
      DATA PLOTS/DYNO RUNS:
      Here are some plots I had lying around from back in the day. The first is a boost comparison from when I had the k03s and k04-001. The second is an overlay of dyno runs i did.


      CLICK HERE FOR MORE K04-001 DYNO SHEETS

      **************************************************
      **************************************************
      IS IT WORTH IT???
      -My opinion:
      Quote, originally posted by NOLA_VDubber »
      It depends. If your k03s is on its way out the door and you need a new turbo pronto...then i say just scoop one up and run it on your k03s file. If you think that getting a k04-001 will give your car a bit more power and are looking for a nice little upgrade...then you should buy a WAI kit. IMO, the minimal increase in power is not worth it.
      Remember, I have owned a k04-001 and am morally allowed to give it a bad review. I wasted countless time and money on this turbo and was disappointed in the end. I have since stepped up to a 28RS and am beyond please with the jump. Spool time on a small frame BT is minimal, and 300whp is plenty streetable no matter what some say.

      -Other opinions:
      Quote, originally posted by Buschwick »
      Hey dude that extra 20hp would definitly be cool if it's cheap. There's nothing WRONG with the turbo, it IS better than stock, so if you gotta good deal then why not. Just don't spend $1000 for one.
      It's gonna act the like K03s but just have a little more breath up high. A little more torque too.
      If it's cheap enough for the power it gives then why not.

      Quote, originally posted by IzVW »
      Save your $1000. You won't be happy with it even if "that's all it cost".

      Quote, originally posted by Chemhalo »
      If you are never ever ever going to mod your car beyond a K04, then by all means do it.
      However, if you think for one second you may want a bigger turbo, then you'd be an idiot not to just save the money for BT parts.

      Quote, originally posted by Punchdance »
      As a former 337 owner who wanted a k04, I can tell you that you will quickly get the "dang I wish I went bigger" syndrome. You are going to spend at least a grand to get that turbo and getting it to run as it should, but there is no room to grow. It is a good sliver of an upgrade for a car that has a dead turbo, but it really isnt that great as far as power output is concerned......the subject has been beat to death, so do a search in the 1.8t technical forums for the down and dirty. Good luck. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      Quote, originally posted by NOLA_VDubber a long time ago lol »
      I have a k04-001. With meth, I put down a reliable 225whp all day long (and that's on the ole' heartbreak dynodynamics dyno). She holds her power, too; peaks way later in the rpm range unlike the wily k03s, yet is still @20psi when you turn the key. Is it fun..yes. Is it worth it monitarily...meh. At best, it makes for a great auto-x setup. Don't expect to do much damage beyond 3rd gear, though.
      I will be upgrading in the near future to a T3s60 or 28RS if that means anything to ya. I've had this setup for less than six months, and expect it gone within the year. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      -Borg Warner's opinion:
      Quote, originally posted by Some guy from Borg »
      Dear Sir,
      thank you for your interest in our products.
      First of all, we don't produce any turbo that we call K03S. But I hope I can
      answer your questions with the following explanations.
      All the following turbos have the same installation dimensions and
      thermodynamical performance. The differences are only in the actuator that
      opens the turbine bypass valve:
      K03-011 (5303 988 0011) 150 hp, 65 N actuator
      K03-026 180 hp, 85 N actuator
      K03-035 180 hp, 85 N actuator
      K03-044 150 hp, 65 N actuator
      K03-045 156 hp (Ibiza Cupra), 85 N actuator with 2 ports
      K03-049 150 hp (Sharan/Alhambra), 65 N actuator
      The 180 hp versions have an actuator with a higher opening force due to the
      higher exhaust gas pressure (which is a consequence of the higher boost
      pressure). Otherwise the valve would be pushed open by the exhaust gas
      pressure.
      The following turbos are a further development (since 2000) and have an
      improved and slightly larger compressor while using the same turbine (still
      with the same installation dimensions):
      K03-052 180 hp, 85 N actuator
      K03-053 150 hp, 85 N actuator
      K03-058 150 hp/180 hp, 85 N actuator
      Consequentially, putting a 180 hp turbo on a 150 hp engine will not bring
      about any change in performance, but putting on a K03-052/053/058 instead of
      the older versions will bring a slight improvement in engine efficiency.
      Additionally, with re-mapping the ECU you can achieve about 215 hp without
      danger of overspeeding the turbo. With the older turbos, 195 hp is the
      limit.
      With the K04 that's also commonly used (5304 950 0001) the power output
      should not be more than 220 hp. That means, changing a K03-052/053/058
      against a K04 does not make a lot of sense.




      Modified by NOLA_VDubber at 8:18 PM 9-14-2009

    2. Member transient_analysis's Avatar
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      01-28-2009 08:14 PM #2
      yup.. agreed.. not worth it
      unless there are racing class restrictions, or smog fears.. then it may be worth it
      good info too
      stock turbo 1.8t.. damn 2-year CA smog.. :/

    3. 01-28-2009 08:30 PM #3
      Quote, originally posted by NOLA_VDubber »
      COST/BENEFIT ANALYSIS:
      K04-001
      $1000 - Turbo (normal price)
      $300 - High Flow Manifold (normal price)
      $50 - Install kit
      $300 - MAF housing and Injectors
      $650 - Specific k04-001 File
      $200 - TIP
      = $2500 / 20whp = $125/whp

      Ok, I hate seeing K04-001 threads pop up daily just as much as the next guy, but at least try to put some HONESTY in the post. The APR K04 kit is $1699 and an AWE one can be had from $1495 (AWD) to $2200 (AWP).
      Also, when you quote $/hp you need to state your baseline. Your baseline appears to be a chipped car. If that is the case, current customers of most software companies can receive credits when they upgrade further reducing the cost.
      This should be the official K04 information thread... not the official bash k04 thread.

    4. Member NOLA_VDubber's Avatar
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      01-28-2009 08:33 PM #4
      OTHER DYNO PLOTS

      Quote, originally posted by Atl337 »
      Here is the dyno pull from yesterday.

      This is with the added K04, Neuspeed TIP and APR K04 93 octane program. If you check my earlier post you will notice a gain of +16 hp and +22 lb-ft, which is what you should expect. Also, given what I ran stock with CAI/Exhaust and chipped I tend to rely on the numbers I have versus what I am seeing other people post. Doing the driveline loss conversion puts me at published numbers for stock (+10 approx for mods) and published APR numbers as well.
      Peace

      Quote, originally posted by TheGreasyJap »
      Both runs on the same dyno.
      January 2008:
      Mods: APR 91, AEM CAI, APR TIP, APR TBH, Tyrol UGSMIC, Milltek 3-2.5 TB

      April 2009:
      (134,250 miles)added Kinetic Hi-flow exhaust mani, K04-001 and APR K04 91 octane program with MBC holding spike to 22/23psi

      The numbers look low, but the curves look good, and the car feels really good on the road.

      Quote, originally posted by Blu--Pearl »
      Here's Mine from back in the day hahahaha I have a few time slips also.
      Here the dyno with;
      ko4-001
      apr ko4 file with v-tune
      devilown meth kit
      3" turboback
      highflow ko4 mani
      stock block and head
      eurojet street intercooler
      and the other crappy bolts ons

      Quote, originally posted by PjS860ct »
      2001 GTi 1.8t 68,000 miles... Dalhback chip ( needs an upgrade, still a ko3 file) ko4-001, evom fmic, dalhback dv, cai, tt 2.5" full turbo back, n75k, mbc (inline), silicone boost hoses, ngk7s = ~209hp and ~245tq

      [QUOTE=MichaelB30]
      Mods:
      K04-01
      APR K04 s/w (dyno'd on 93 oct.)
      Greddy fmic
      Kinetic hi-flow exhaust manifold
      Eurosport 2.5" turbo back
      Forge 007
      Injen cia
      ECS stage 1 clutch kit

      Quote, originally posted by IFiONLY »

      APR K04, 3" GHL TB, Forge 007, P-flo. i had the boostvalve in and had the N75 looped off. I had it screwed all the way in. and it was only giving me about 18 psi. i wanted to turn it up more but i couldn't. and this was on the 100 oct program.
      and each run was with a little more boost. i wanted to go up to about 22 or 23.

      Quote, originally posted by welty »
      k04-001
      98oct in Russia (between 91 and 93 yours )
      2.5" custom downpipe w/o cat
      2.5" cat-back Milltek Sport
      Digi-tec file
      221.9hp, 242tq




      Modified by NOLA_VDubber at 11:10 AM 9-9-2009

    5. Member NOLA_VDubber's Avatar
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      01-28-2009 09:08 PM #5
      Some things that should be added:
      ---Khaos - you have a copy of that email from borg?
      ---Some comparison pics/dimensions if anyone has em
      ---more responses for or against..post em up

    6. 01-28-2009 09:31 PM #6
      Dear Sir,
      thank you for your interest in our products.
      First of all, we don't produce any turbo that we call K03S. But I hope I can
      answer your questions with the following explanations.
      All the following turbos have the same installation dimensions and
      thermodynamical performance. The differences are only in the actuator that
      opens the turbine bypass valve:
      K03-011 (5303 988 0011) 150 hp, 65 N actuator
      K03-026 180 hp, 85 N actuator
      K03-035 180 hp, 85 N actuator
      K03-044 150 hp, 65 N actuator
      K03-045 156 hp (Ibiza Cupra), 85 N actuator with 2 ports
      K03-049 150 hp (Sharan/Alhambra), 65 N actuator
      The 180 hp versions have an actuator with a higher opening force due to the
      higher exhaust gas pressure (which is a consequence of the higher boost
      pressure). Otherwise the valve would be pushed open by the exhaust gas
      pressure.
      The following turbos are a further development (since 2000) and have an
      improved and slightly larger compressor while using the same turbine (still
      with the same installation dimensions):
      K03-052 180 hp, 85 N actuator
      K03-053 150 hp, 85 N actuator
      K03-058 150 hp/180 hp, 85 N actuator
      Consequentially, putting a 180 hp turbo on a 150 hp engine will not bring
      about any change in performance, but putting on a K03-052/053/058 instead of
      the older versions will bring a slight improvement in engine efficiency.
      Additionally, with re-mapping the ECU you can achieve about 215 hp without
      danger of overspeeding the turbo. With the older turbos, 195 hp is the
      limit.
      With the K04 that's also commonly used (5304 950 0001) the power output
      should not be more than 220 hp. That means, changing a K03-052/053/058
      against a K04 does not make a lot of sense.

    7. 01-28-2009 09:32 PM #7
      Ko3 - 2000
      COMPRESSOR WHEEL
      Inducer: 33.6mm
      Exducer: 46mm
      Tip height: 3.7mm
      TURBINE WHEEL
      Inducer: 45mm
      Exducer: 38mm
      Tip height: 6.8mm
      Blades: 11
      Ko3S - Late 01+
      COMPRESSOR WHEEL
      Inducer: 38mm
      Exducer: 51mm
      Tip height: 4.4mm
      TURBINE WHEEL
      Inducer: 45mm
      Exducer: 38mm
      Tip height: 6.8mm
      Blades: 11
      Ko4-001
      COMPRESSOR WHEEL
      Inducer: 35mm
      Exducer: 50mm
      Tip height: 3.7mm
      TURBINE WHEEL
      Inducer: 50mm
      Exducer: 42mm
      Tip height: 6.4mm
      Blades: 11

    8. Member
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      01-28-2009 09:35 PM #8
      Quote, originally posted by NOLA_VDubber »
      *Huge post of information*

      I [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emlove.gif[/IMG] this post. I hope it helps someone make an informed decision. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Howto's, info, etc:
      http://www.izvw.com

    9. Member NOLA_VDubber's Avatar
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      01-28-2009 09:41 PM #9
      CincyTT = the shiz
      IzVW = the shiz too
      lol

    10. 01-28-2009 09:55 PM #10
      Thank you for posting this, it should be sticky'd.
      I will be installing a K04-001 if/when my K03s dies. I feel it isn't really worth it solely as a power upgrade. I see it as a "OE upgraded replacement" to the K03.
      A big turbo upgrade is nice, but I personally don't want the headaches that could come up with reliability. I don't want to worry about breaking/upgrading transmissions, differentials, clutches, axles, brakes, tires, injectors, fuel pump, software, etc. I only have one car so I need it to be reliable. If i really wanted lots of horsepower, I would have bought a rwd or awd car. 300+hp in a 3100lb front wheel drive car just doesn't do it for me as far as all-around performance goes. I have a streetbike that i take to the track for my performance fix.
      People just have to be realistic when they choose upgrades. What do you use the car for? Do I go to the track/dragstrip/autocross? Am I prepared to deal with problems that may arise with any mod I am considering? Do i have to pass emissions?...
      Information is power and that's what this forum is for. The forums Search feature is your friend! Good luck with whatever direction you plan to take and be safe out there! [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    11. Member Jetta4Life's Avatar
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      01-28-2009 10:14 PM #11
      you dont need to buy APR's kit to get their programming, if your an existing customer you pay $199 for a loaded ecu just need the 4bar FPR and your ready to go!

    12. Member NOLA_VDubber's Avatar
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      01-28-2009 10:41 PM #12
      Quote, originally posted by Jetta4Life »
      you dont need to buy APR's kit to get their programming, if your an existing customer you pay $199 for a loaded ecu just need the 4bar FPR and your ready to go!

      Ah yes, that's right. I'll update that part [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Quote, originally posted by djGolfGTI »
      Thank you for posting this, it should be sticky'd.
      I will be installing a K04-001 if/when my K03s dies. I feel it isn't really worth it solely as a power upgrade. I see it as a "OE upgraded replacement" to the K03.
      A big turbo upgrade is nice, but I personally don't want the headaches that could come up with reliability. I don't want to worry about breaking/upgrading transmissions, differentials, clutches, axles, brakes, tires, injectors, fuel pump, software, etc. I only have one car so I need it to be reliable. If i really wanted lots of horsepower, I would have bought a rwd or awd car. 300+hp in a 3100lb front wheel drive car just doesn't do it for me as far as all-around performance goes. I have a streetbike that i take to the track for my performance fix.
      People just have to be realistic when they choose upgrades. What do you use the car for? Do I go to the track/dragstrip/autocross? Am I prepared to deal with problems that may arise with any mod I am considering? Do i have to pass emissions?...
      Information is power and that's what this forum is for. The forums Search feature is your friend! Good luck with whatever direction you plan to take and be safe out there! [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      Good post It should be noted though, that any upgrades you make to your car are going to have an effect on reliability. The simple act of unbolting a factory component and replacing it with something not meant to be there will always pose a risk.
      Also, lets say a k04-001 can spike to 250wtq in some instance; if instead I run a .48 50 trim at low boost, I can hit the same 250wtq not too far after the k04 yet hold it till 7500 rpm. Both are stressing the driveline in a similar manner (from a peak torque point of view, neglecting intertial forces), but the 50trim holds that torque longer, thus hitting a higher peak power level.
      For those curious about the subject:
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4111773

    13. Member ejg3855's Avatar
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      01-29-2009 03:01 AM #13
      Is it possible to combine the compressor wheel from a K03s and a turbine wheel from a K04 ?
      Sounds like a better path if you choose the K04 route
      CUSTOM TUNING - IMMO DEFEAT - AWD DYNO - FABRICATION - MACHINED/DESIGNED PARTS

      NOW OBD FLASHING MK6/MK7 2.0T

      http://WWW.BREAKOUTMOTORSPORTS.COM

    14. 01-29-2009 11:27 AM #14
      it has been done. Think gpopshop has been doing that for some time.

    15. Member burkechrs1's Avatar
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      01-29-2009 12:28 PM #15
      great thread. sticky please

    16. Member tyrantanic's Avatar
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      01-29-2009 02:46 PM #16
      If anyone has some info on some tuning of GIAC X+ (in my case) or apr/uni/whatever with the K04-001 that would be great. It'll be a while before I can get the MAF/Injectors/GIAC K04 software so I would like to look into the tuning bit.
      Even a stopped clock gives the right time twice a day.

    17. Member NOLA_VDubber's Avatar
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      01-29-2009 03:01 PM #17
      ^It'd be best to run a 4bar FPR with this turbo. The only tuning that would need to be done would be to monitor your fuel trims and adjust your primary fuel tweak in unisettings to zero them out if needed [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    18. Member NOLA_VDubber's Avatar
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      01-29-2009 06:52 PM #18
      tryin not to let this one die just yet

    19. 01-29-2009 09:31 PM #19
      Quote, originally posted by NOLA_VDubber »
      tryin not to let this one die just yet

      Yeah sticky this and keep it updated. Good info here! [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

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      01-31-2009 05:30 PM #20
      nice post [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    21. 02-02-2009 05:00 PM #21
      GOOD QUESTION FOR ALL OF YOU..........Do you think a K04 swap is a good idea on a tiptronic-equipped car?

    22. Member NOLA_VDubber's Avatar
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      02-02-2009 05:58 PM #22
      Quote, originally posted by BryanS »
      GOOD QUESTION FOR ALL OF YOU..........Do you think a K04 swap is a good idea on a tiptronic-equipped car?

      get in touch with sledge0001 about k04-001 and an e05b swaps on a tip tranny. He has done both and can fill you in on all the details. If you want, please direct him to post his response here so all can see [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    23. Member sledge0001's Avatar
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      02-03-2009 11:23 AM #23
      Yes it is a worthwhile upgrade and it will work on a Tiptronic perfectly but you must understand that you will be stressing the transmission if you drive the poo out of your car.
      My 04 NBC 1.8T is the 150BHP model and currently has a GIAC Tuned E05B W/ 380cc injectors, TT Maf, FMIC, and TT 2.5" Turboback with cat. (The E05B is just a tad more aggressive than a K04-001 maybe 2-7whp). I chose the E05B after my K03s took a dump and everyone was running the K04-001's with their 1.8T's so I figured with all of the fuss over the E05A's blowing up I would try the Eurospec E05B Turbo since it was supposed to give that tad bit more than a K04-001 and it had been redesigned. So far I am very happy with my E05B setup. (Although I am getting ready to add a 50-75 Shot!)
      I don't believe that the APR tune requires all of the extras like TT Maf, bigger injectors etc. I can tell you this... Initially I had 139WHP stock.. Then I had 173WHP with my GIAC X tune +/K03S/ TT Turboback and I now have 205WHP with my E05 tune and E05B turbo. See my sig for Dyno sheets..
      Now let's get back to your tranny... I had to replace my transmission after I started to get a nasty slip from 2nd to 3rd. This slip had already begun back when I first purchased the car with 6200 miles on it and the tranny was replaced at 22K due to the slip getting worse and worse. Now did the bigger turbo + chip and how I drive the car contribute to the ongoing destruction of my first trans? Most likely however it was already slippping when I purchased it. So far the new trans has been perfect.
      So with that being said I would say is it safe? Yes!!! as long as you don't power break and or floor it from the line everytime you drive your car. You will have a fun quick ride with this upgrade. Just keep in mind that the 6 speed tiptronic and any tiptronic for that matter in a VW was not designed to hold 200-210+ Whp.. So if you start pushing those limits you will and should expect to have problems.
      Now for me. I beat the holy hell out of my car every single day. It is a daily driver and you better believe that I would put the K04 / E05 in again if I blew my current E05b turbo..
      I am currently looking to have my tiptronic trans built up by Halpem from Caltransproducts. He has been working on a economical solution for us "tiptronic" folks so that we can hold more power (350WHP+) without destroying things...
      So... The K04/E05 can make for a fun daily driver that is shockingly quick and a blast to drive. Not to mention that you can sneak by emissions with this type of setup in Cali!!
      I would say [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]


      Modified by sledge0001 at 8:24 AM 2-3-2009
      Quote Originally Posted by Arin@APR View Post
      I'm outta here... you guys are idiots. You can quote me on that and throw it in all of your sigs.

    24. 02-03-2009 11:39 AM #24
      GIAC K04-001 Software and Hardware Requirements
      http://www.giacusa.com/programs.php?mpid=150
      Programming for - The 2005 - 2001 Golf ® /Jetta ® w/ K04-1/E05 Turbo Upgrade

      GIAC performance software for the 2005 - 2001 Golf ® /Jetta ® w/ K04-1/E05 Turbo Upgrade smoothly delivers a 45-100 hp. and 60-150 ft-lbs. gain. For optimum perfomance the software must be coupled with.
      Required Hardware:
      380 cc injectors (real S3/225TT 380 or Deka 1 Siemens 380, Genesis 380)
      225 TT 3inch OD MAF with real TT sensor not golf jetta (Part number: 06A906461EX)
      Upgraded intercooler with less than 2 psi boost drop and IATs less than 50 deg. C. sustained.
      K04-1 or E05 Turbo
      F - N75 valve works best
      Intake: long tube CAIs or stock air boxes, or short if velocity stacked properly.
      Green Coolant temp sensor.
      Recommended:
      2.5-3.0 inch. turbo back exhaust with a quality CAT.
      104 octane for best performance in Race mode. 100 Octane performs well if not blended with pump fuel.
      Turbo inlet hose to prevent collapse if a lot of power is attained.
      Note: Power gains stated above are based off of the varied starting base horsepowers of the 1.8T platforms as well as hardware and octane limitations.
      From what I have researched I believe:
      Siemens Injectors are the best and go with a real quality Forge TIP. Just my .02

    25. Member sledge0001's Avatar
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      02-03-2009 11:42 AM #25
      Quote, originally posted by VWGolfA4 »
      From what I have researched I believe:
      Siemens Injectors are the best and go with a real quality Forge TIP. Just my .02

      The Genesis 380's have a much better spray pattern!
      Quote Originally Posted by Arin@APR View Post
      I'm outta here... you guys are idiots. You can quote me on that and throw it in all of your sigs.

    26. 02-03-2009 11:44 AM #26
      Quote, originally posted by sledge0001 »
      The Genesis 380's have a much better spray pattern!

      I thought the Genesis were just relabled injectors and the Siemans had a better pattern? I was also told not to get the cheaper Bosch Injectors.

    27. Member NOLA_VDubber's Avatar
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      02-03-2009 11:55 AM #27
      Quote, originally posted by VWGolfA4 »
      I thought the Genesis were just relabled injectors and the Siemans had a better pattern? I was also told not to get the cheaper Bosch Injectors.

      Pics taken from http://www.usralleyteam.com

      In a multi-valve head like ours, the seimens are a big no-no as you can see from above



      Modified by NOLA_VDubber at 2:46 PM 2-3-2009

    28. 02-03-2009 12:28 PM #28
      OK, Ill take your word for it. One of the very well known and respected vendors told me that. Guess I am mistaken. Sorry for the confusion.


      Modified by VWGolfA4 at 3:21 PM 2-3-2009

    29. Member tyrantanic's Avatar
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      02-03-2009 12:37 PM #29
      So what's the difference there with the spray pattern? I understand if you have 2 valves for intake you want to split the pattern, but none of those seem great for a 3 valve setup...
      Even a stopped clock gives the right time twice a day.

    30. Member NOLA_VDubber's Avatar
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      02-03-2009 03:15 PM #30
      The fuel is supposed to hit the area between valve as seen in the factory TT injectors. I imagine it helps atomize the stream on contact...but i'm just guessing.

    31. Member tyrantanic's Avatar
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      02-03-2009 03:18 PM #31
      Quote, originally posted by NOLA_VDubber »
      The fuel is supposed to hit the area between valve as seen in the factory TT injectors. I imagine it helps atomize the stream on contact...but i'm just guessing.

      But the USRT page says thats exactly what you want to avoid......
      Quote, originally posted by USRT Website »
      "The picture on the left shows a 16v inlet port in detail. A central bridge is clearly visible. This is where the main inlet port becomes split to direct air (and fuel) towards the intake valves. The correct injector type for this inlet configuration is one where the injector nozzle sprays precisely-split fuel streams directly into each port and onto the back of each inlet valve.
      Contact with the metal walls is carefully avoided. An injector that sprays a single-narrow fuel cone will wash down the manifold and head. Tuning/holding precise air/fuel ratios is thusly complicated because fuel puddles and then slowly dribbles into the combustion chamber. So much for EFI precision!"
      Even a stopped clock gives the right time twice a day.

    32. Member NOLA_VDubber's Avatar
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      02-03-2009 03:44 PM #32
      Then there must be some other reason since they did it from the factory.

    33. Member tyrantanic's Avatar
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      02-03-2009 03:46 PM #33
      Quote, originally posted by NOLA_VDubber »
      Then there must be some other reason since they did it from the factory.

      Just putting the info out there, I'll have to read up some more... just got into the fueling section in Maximum Boost. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Even a stopped clock gives the right time twice a day.

    34. Member NOLA_VDubber's Avatar
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      02-03-2009 03:47 PM #34
      Quote, originally posted by tyrantanic »
      Just putting the info out there, I'll have to read up some more... just got into the fueling section in Maximum Boost. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      Post it up when you find out [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] I'm sure scott@USRT would also be more than willing to fill us in as well

    35. 02-09-2009 11:54 PM #35
      Ok, has anyone seen actual dyno numbers for the K04-01 GIAC software with all of the recommended/required parts? Also, aside from a small 30whp increase, what is the torque increase, and most of all, how much more RELIABLE is the K04-01 vs. the K03S? I've gone through 2 K03S's now but really don't have the money for BT as much as I would love to have one.

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