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    VWVortex


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    Thread: Low gas mileage, 4 faults found: 16555 fuel trim too lean: bank 1

    1. Member
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      01-31-2009 11:05 AM #1
      <- 1996 MKIII Jetta 2.0L stock. btw I've read the first page of the fuel trim info page @ http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1201806

      I'm at the 125 mile mark on this tank and my gauge is past half empty. Not quiet at 1/4 yet though.

      I should note that I cleaned the MAF and throttle body 6 months ago to try to help smooth out a rough idle (it was staying up near 1,200 rpm). It helped at least for a little while but then went back to a higher idle of about 1,100.

      Since then I've replaced the oil cooler seal and dip stick tube which seemed to help with the idle problems (after it had warmed up it stayed at 900 rpm last time). Though last night when I was out there on a cold start idle stayed at 1,100 or so.

      ----------------------------------------------------
      Saturday, 31 January 2009, 10:41:58
      VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S

      Control Module Part Number: 037 906 259 J
      Component and/or Version: MOTRONIC M5.9 HS V01
      Software Coding: 00000
      Work Shop Code: WSC 09415

      4 Faults Found:
      16555 - Fuel Trim: System Too Lean: Bank 1
      P0171 - 35-00 - -
      16824 - EVAP Emission Contr.Sys. Malfunction
      P0440 - 35-00 -
      16517 - O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank1-Sensor1 Slow Response
      P0133 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
      16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low
      P0102 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
      ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

      I've been searching around the forums and people have been saying to check the measure value block. in VAG-COM, go into 01- Engine, then 04 - value blocks, then read 032. ... but the shareware version seems to prohibit that. I noted when I took the air box cover off there was some more oil in the filter, not alot mind you, should I try cleaning the MAF again?

      Can anyone give me a better idea of whats wrong before I have to go a) learn to trace hoses and b) go check for vacuum leaks in the cold today?

      I also saw someone mention the fuel filter, I have all the paperwork (i think) for the cars service history, is there a usual lifetime on fuel filters? It's been in Virginia all its life I think, in case the gas around here has extra contaminants etc.

      Thanks for any help.

      Okay from more searching it looks like it might just be a gas cap?


      Modified by JDub8 at 12:03 PM 1-31-2009


    2. Member mechsoldier's Avatar
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      02-01-2009 01:31 AM #2
      You need to fix your fuel trims first. Cleaning the MAF rarely works on this type of maf in my experience. The maf is probably faulty but you need the full version of Vag Com to read block 32. You can try pulling the MAF connector and driving it and see if it gets better gas mileage that may or may not work. Ignore the O2 sensor fault, that is due to the incorrect fuel trims.

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    3. Member
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      02-01-2009 11:00 AM #3
      Woah really? How would pulling the MAF help my fuel mileage? I woulda thought that would cause my car to stall out.

      Thanks for the idea, I guess I'll try that.


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      03-01-2009 06:05 PM #4
      I've replaced my MAF with a junkyard one and cleared the codes. After 10 miles or so the following came back:

      16555 - Fuel Trim: System Too Lean: Bank 1
      P0171 - 35-00 - -
      16824 - EVAP Emission Contr.Sys. Malfunction
      P0440 - 35-00 -

      ... Ideas? I've replaced the gas cap recently.


      Modified by JDub8 at 6:15 PM 3-1-2009


    5. 03-01-2009 06:26 PM #5
      Your N80 solenoid may be stuck open.
      This will cause a vac. leak into the evap system, so you cannot hear it.
      On a 96 it should have 2 evap tests. Clear all dtc's and on a cold engine, run basic settings (at idle) 150 and 153.

      Or pull it off and see if it is stuck open. You may be able to blow through it if its stuck.
      It is a 2 wire located on a bracket near the air box. one of the hoses goes to the top of the throttle body.


    6. Member
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      03-02-2009 12:15 AM #6
      Could you elaborate on what you mean by basic settings 150/153 and what the solenoid will look like? I just need to follow one of the small hoses on the airbox to the TB and it will be obvious?

    7. 03-06-2009 06:56 PM #7
      Basic settings is a function in vag-com. This enables you to run specific tests.
      So with the engine running, go into engine electronics, basic settings, 150. There are several 1's and 0's displayed. When the test completes, 100 will be at the end Example XXXXX100 = ok
      Do the same for 153 in basic settings.

      The valve located at air box, black in color, 2 hose connections, 2 wire connector.


    8. Member
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      03-09-2009 03:07 PM #8
      My purge valve came today and I found it... hiding under the MAF. I plugged it in and drove around for a mile then let it idle a bit. The CEL stayed on so I cleared the codes.

      Here are the results of those tests:


      The 3rd one is 150 + 153 together + vag scope, the large fluctuations are me revving the engine.

      @mechsoldier Here's block 32 and a scope of it:




      Modified by JDub8 at 4:29 PM 3-9-2009


    9. Member mechsoldier's Avatar
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      03-09-2009 08:18 PM #9
      I'm an idiot I didn't read your car in your signature, that block isn't valid for a MKIII.
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    10. Member
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      03-09-2009 08:32 PM #10
      Lol I miss stuff like that all the time and kick myself for it. That's part of the problem with forums, they don't encourage efficiency or standardization of info. You look at the average sig and its 20 seconds of dense info about the 3 cars and 2 sound systems someone owns, so you learn to tune most of it out and dont bother. But if there were a nice place in the profile that 90% of people used to provide basic info with the option to see EVERYTHING... everyone would use it and there'd be fewer problems.

      Anything you can think of for me to check/read now? After clearing the codes and driving 30 miles or so the CEL hasn't come back on. I guess all I can do is see if my gas mileage returns to the normal 330 miles to the 11-12 gallons.

      Does anyone think the 2 oxygen and evap failures will just go away? That would leave just my cat to deal with and make me happy.


    11. 03-09-2009 09:25 PM #11
      153 did not finish. the intake air temp. was too hot.
      Try again on a cold start or just drive it.

      The oxygen and evap are not failed unless there is a dtc. They are just not passed yet (incomplete)

      If you want to try to generate the complete readiness
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2815417


    12. Member
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      03-10-2009 05:19 PM #12
      I'm not sure exactly what that doc is telling me to do. Obviously just pay attention to the mk3 part but do you mean go into engine controller, then click the 04-basic settings button? Thats what I did, followed by entering the 3 digit codes specified. Some didnt seem to work very well, does it hurt anything to run them incomplete? Which codes specifically are tied to the O2 sensors and evap passing?

      #1 said error ( I turned the key without starting the engine)

      #2 do you mean DISPLAY x111 is what it starts at and I should wait for it to change to x100 - signifying that its done?

      I took a few screenshots of the cat test and 125.

      125 Seemed to complete, the 0xx1 x100 appeared, but then the first block of numbers kept changing.

      Also on # 11 and 12 they use the same 125. Does the ecu know to use a different test/calibration based on RPM? How the heck does that work?

      Despite going through most of those steps I have the same errors with o2, evap and cat.

      do I need to clear the DTC's from this page or something? (see screenshot above)


      Modified by JDub8 at 9:19 PM 3-10-2009


    13. Member
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      03-12-2009 12:06 AM #13
      I just read this thread and it made me wonder if anyone knew about the problem my engine has with storing completed test results? http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4114088

      Should I just keep running 150 and 153 every day till it logs them as passed? I ran them each for a several minutes.


    14. 03-12-2009 11:31 AM #14
      Are there any dtc's? 01 Engine electronics, Fault codes. A incomplete test in readiness status is not a error or fault unless there is a dtc stored for that component.

      If there are not any faults, just drive it. As I included in my readiness post, those early A3 cars are difficult to get through. Maybe your car is just not going to cooperate with those self tests. I have had luck with a 6-10 mile drive at high rpm 3,000-4000, then stop and let car idle for 10 min. When it sits at idle, you may hear the evap test running, clicking of n80.

      If there are faults stored, then the readiness tests may not complete, switch to pass.
      Monitor it over a few days of driving.


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      03-12-2009 01:42 PM #15
      No DTC's. No CEL is on. I've driven it normally (pretty light) for about 80 miles so far. I guess I'll just keep driving it.

      I have a question about tests. They run whenever you enter those 3 digit codes into vag-com right? What about normally? what would trigger it to run that test on its own without a vag-com connected and telling it to run those tests? Is the computer smart enough to realize it hasnt passed those tests and try to run the tests it requires to pass them on its own through normal driving?


      Modified by JDub8 at 3:59 PM 3-12-2009


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      03-17-2009 01:43 AM #16
      I drove it hard for 15 miles or so and let it idle for 15 minutes. Any ideas?


      Modified by JDub8 at 2:54 AM 3-18-2009

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      03-18-2009 11:33 PM #17
      bump.

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