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    Thread: 020 Manual Swap FAQ/DIY

    1. Member
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      '14 Outback 6spd MT, '95 BMW 318ti M50 swapped
      10-08-2005 10:22 AM #1
      Alright guys....I consolidated this down a lot. If you see something that was accidentally deleted, or have any new info, please let me know and I will add it.

      -askibum02



      Modified by askibum02 at 2:01 AM 2-4-2009


    2. 10-11-2005 08:49 AM #2
      Just finished one. Not too complicated. Just labor intensive.

      Helps to have a donor. Quite a few parts you need but don't think about until you get started. Like the clutch pedal. The auto has a short shaft just for the brake pedal. Drop the fuse/relay block, move the plastic wire shield out of the way, remove the clip on the right side of the shaft, and pull the shaft out the left side. Then position the clutch pedal, (some people say it is easier to install the cable on this end before installing th pedal) insert the longer shaft through the clutch and brake pedal, and re-install the clip, shield, and fuse/relay block.

      You keep the original ECM and disconnect the TCM. Keep me posted on your progress. There are lots of stuff I can't remember right off hand. But I got mine running tike a top. Went from 24 mpg with the sick auto to 36 mpg with the manual.

      Andrew I Johnson May 25, 1985 - September 30, 2011
      Permanently banned from MVWS. And CGW says I donít play well with others.
      Auto to manual transmittion swap. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Swap-FAQ-DIYhttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=cyclopath

    3. 10-11-2005 10:58 AM #3
      See if you can just swap out the pedal shaft. Will be alot easier than doing the whole cluster. I used the original starter from the auto. Worked with the manual tranny. Just needed to use the shorted starter bolts from the manual donor car. You could always cut the bolts and taper the end.
      Andrew I Johnson May 25, 1985 - September 30, 2011
      Permanently banned from MVWS. And CGW says I donít play well with others.
      Auto to manual transmittion swap. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Swap-FAQ-DIYhttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=cyclopath

    4. 10-11-2005 11:04 AM #4
      You will also need the stamped metal plate off the manual car. It's 2 piece. Smaller piece comes off so the diff can pass by it during install.

      installed

      new pressure plate stretch bolts

      release plate installed. Ready for the clutch and flywheel
      Finishing touch. Light weight flywheel.


      Andrew I Johnson May 25, 1985 - September 30, 2011
      Permanently banned from MVWS. And CGW says I donít play well with others.
      Auto to manual transmittion swap. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Swap-FAQ-DIYhttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=cyclopath

    5. 10-11-2005 12:13 PM #5
      The only difference in the starers is the way they mount. Newer auto has a square looking bracket. Both mine was round. Hooked up physically and electrically the same. Like I said, had to use the 2 shorter mounting bolts because the manual bell housing is not as thick as the auto. I've heard of other people having problems, but I didn't have any. I went from a 96 auto to a 95 manual. So the motor mounts, tranny mount, and front motor mount bracked all hooked up perfectly.

      Plate was kind of expensive. I gave away the motor in the donor, so I had to buy the plates, pressure plate, flywheel, and a clutch kit. See if you can pull one from a bone yard. I payed almost 80 bucks for the plates.

      Andrew I Johnson May 25, 1985 - September 30, 2011
      Permanently banned from MVWS. And CGW says I donít play well with others.
      Auto to manual transmittion swap. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Swap-FAQ-DIYhttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=cyclopath

    6. 10-11-2005 12:53 PM #6
      I had to drop the sub frame to get the auto out. Disconnect the top of the ball joint from the steering knuckle. 4 bolts to undo the steering rack. Rear motor mount and tranny mount. 6 bolts to the sub frame and the whole thing falls out. You got the 12 point allen to remove the axle bolts? Bought a 4 piece set 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, & 12mm for 8 bucks. You only need the 8mm.
      Andrew I Johnson May 25, 1985 - September 30, 2011
      Permanently banned from MVWS. And CGW says I donít play well with others.
      Auto to manual transmittion swap. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Swap-FAQ-DIYhttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=cyclopath

    7. 10-11-2005 02:39 PM #7
      Just thought of another snag for you. The A2 axles will not work in a A3. They are 1/2" too short on each side. You might have to use them as cores to buy remanufactured. They are normally under 60 bucks each.
      Andrew I Johnson May 25, 1985 - September 30, 2011
      Permanently banned from MVWS. And CGW says I donít play well with others.
      Auto to manual transmittion swap. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Swap-FAQ-DIYhttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=cyclopath

    8. 10-11-2005 07:01 PM #8
      I hope you don't mind me asking questions as I'm doing the same thing on a 95 Golf right now. You said that you acquired a shifter box, is it from an A3 or an A2? The reason I'm asking is that I have an A2 shifter box, but it is a tad wider at the base where it bolts to the 2 holes in the rear of the box. I could trim the base and slot the mounting hole to make it fit.
      The other thing is how to mount the front part of the shifter box as the automatic shifter has a single bolt coming out from the top of the shifter box that goes through a hole on the top of the tunnel and is fixed by a nut. I hope i explained myself clearly. Is the A3 manual shifter box mounted the same as the A3 auto shifter box?

    9. 10-11-2005 08:29 PM #9
      I just finished mounting everything mechanically up And tried to start mine which is a 97 jetta that had a auto tranny in it. It didnt start? Disconected the tcm also. Did you have to wire in the clutch pedal switch? Another thing is i bought this from a kid that started to take the auto out so I couldnt hear it run. With the key in the run position I used my remote starter and it fired up sounded good and checked all gears to make sure everything was ok which it was and was able to shut it off with the key. Got to looking around at all the wires and noticed a bunch of wires cut. They were from the anti theft module. About 3/4 were cut. Anyway to bypass this to see if this is part of the problem? Please help Oh ya my auto starter works great with this swap. John

    10. Member
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      10-11-2005 08:55 PM #10
      Quote, originally posted by noypiesky »
      I hope you don't mind me asking questions as I'm doing the same thing on a 95 Golf right now. You said that you acquired a shifter box, is it from an A3 or an A2? The reason I'm asking is that I have an A2 shifter box, but it is a tad wider at the base where it bolts to the 2 holes in the rear of the box. I could trim the base and slot the mounting hole to make it fit.
      The other thing is how to mount the front part of the shifter box as the automatic shifter has a single bolt coming out from the top of the shifter box that goes through a hole on the top of the tunnel and is fixed by a nut. I hope i explained myself clearly. Is the A3 manual shifter box mounted the same as the A3 auto shifter box?

      not at all: thats how we all learn!
      anyway I got a manual shifter box from an A2, I heard they mount slightly different but it can work. I figured if I had to make a bracket or two it wouldnt kill me to get that mounted its a simple enough assembly.
      The mounting to the rack is the reason why I got the manual rack. I was told it had all of the correct mounting holes.


    11. 10-11-2005 09:48 PM #11
      To get mine to start, I cheated the park/neutral switch. Find the straight 6 pin plug that use to go to the auto transmission. Then jumper or short 1 to3 and 4 to 6. Doesn't matter which end you start in, it will be the same. Got mine done like that just temporarily. Need to figure out the back-up lights. The plug that fits the back-up switch on the manual tranny is not for the back-up lights.

      From what I have heard, the A2 shifter assembly will not work on a A3. They say it is different in length. Let me know if it does work. I don't want to be putting bogus info out.

      Andrew I Johnson May 25, 1985 - September 30, 2011
      Permanently banned from MVWS. And CGW says I donít play well with others.
      Auto to manual transmittion swap. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Swap-FAQ-DIYhttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=cyclopath

    12. 10-11-2005 11:00 PM #12
      Jumpered the wires and it started right up for me. Everyone was amazed. Got it looking like it came from the factory as a manual. Trying to get the wife to clean it up alittle inside. Will replace the drivers knee pad and stuff after I do the back-up wiring. And I just bought a lower glove box.

      Andrew I Johnson May 25, 1985 - September 30, 2011
      Permanently banned from MVWS. And CGW says I donít play well with others.
      Auto to manual transmittion swap. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Swap-FAQ-DIYhttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=cyclopath

    13. 10-12-2005 07:04 AM #13
      Quote, originally posted by ayton »
      did you swap out your cluster?

      Nope. Original cluster. There's nothing to swap except for the drivetrain. Original cluster, ECM, brake pedal, Throttle body, starter (in my case), motor mounts and brackets, tranny mount.
      Andrew I Johnson May 25, 1985 - September 30, 2011
      Permanently banned from MVWS. And CGW says I donít play well with others.
      Auto to manual transmittion swap. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Swap-FAQ-DIYhttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=cyclopath

    14. 10-17-2005 10:09 PM #14
      I used whatever bolts were already with the manual axles. The joy of having a complete donor for parts. If needbe, they shouldn't cost that much from the stealership. I was considering buying new just for S&Gs. But I thought the auto bolts were longer.
      Andrew I Johnson May 25, 1985 - September 30, 2011
      Permanently banned from MVWS. And CGW says I donít play well with others.
      Auto to manual transmittion swap. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Swap-FAQ-DIYhttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=cyclopath

    15. 11-08-2005 06:43 PM #15
      Quote, originally posted by ayton »
      well after some snags with my daily, I finally dug into the car today I managed to remove "all" of the bolts for the tranny but, it didnt drop? I wonder if I missed something...I pulled a 19mm from the rear, the 2 starter bolts, another 19 from the top rear and the top tranny bracket bolt....did I miss something? help I really dont want to drop the sub frame...that seems like the long way

      If I remember it right, there are 2 19 mm bolts on top. one 19 mm bolt in the rear and the two starter bolts. To make it easier, I had to remove the entire transmission support arm, rotate the transmission upwards, and used a pry bar to pry the transmission from the engine. You did remember to remove the 3(?) torque converter bolts.


    16. 11-09-2005 03:03 PM #16
      Speed Sensor plug: Pin 1 (yellow wire) goes to pin 65 on the TCM. Pin 2 (white wire) goes to pin 20 on the TCM. Find these two wires as they enter the firewall. Cut and splice into the wires coming out of Pin 4 and 5 (both black/blue wires) on relay 150. Should work. The Golf is with my son in Tennessee and I am in Maine. So I can't try this myself.
      Andrew I Johnson May 25, 1985 - September 30, 2011
      Permanently banned from MVWS. And CGW says I donít play well with others.
      Auto to manual transmittion swap. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Swap-FAQ-DIYhttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=cyclopath

    17. 01-23-2006 03:12 PM #17
      did you figure out whitch was the reverse lights on the auto to make it work with the 5 speed

    18. Member
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      03-20-2006 11:19 AM #18
      found this rather helpful thread today by accident...explains much of what I was refering to on the speedo gear.

      http://www.brokevw.com/reverseswitch.html




      Modified by ayton at 11:00 AM 9-15-2006


    19. Member
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      03-22-2006 10:32 AM #19
      its called an engine support...I used my engine hoist and some rachet tie downs to raise and lower the motor.

      good deal on the speed sensor...I should have been a bit more frugal but I got the car cheap enough so whatever


    20. Member
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      '14 Outback 6spd MT, '95 BMW 318ti M50 swapped
      04-06-2006 11:23 PM #20
      Small update:
      I put in all the sensors today on the "motor side" of things.
      I put the reverse switch in place and put the speed sensor in.

      A quick note on the mk3 speed sensor; the metal mounting bracket that comes on it has a downward curve that would not allow it to sit flat against the tranny.

      I took it off and flipped it over so the curve pointed up (with a little prying from a flat screwdriver) BE VERY CAREFUL IF YOU HAVE TO DO THIS! If you dont watch your hand you can snap the plastic speedo gear. I did mine fine. just a word of caution.

      had to grind the corner of the bracket a bit for reinstallation on the speedo; just enough to round off one of the corners.
      If you ever attempt to do this you will see what I mean.

      I also changed the coolant flange today and re routing the coolant hoses was simple.
      It looked harder than it was, I didnt have to buy anything special either.
      I had a length of 3/4 in hose and I used about 16-18 inches to tie the coolant bottle back into the coolant pipe coming from the heater core.
      DONE.
      It looks very clean and since it was roll bought hose it had some curve already in it...no kinks or sharp bends to worry about.

      This weekend I put in the pedal cluster, shift linkage and shift cable.

      Sorry I'm so slow at this guys but its more of a self tutorial side project not a definative need to finish now mode of transportation.

      tune in for the next installment


      Modified by ayton at 6:47 PM 4-14-2006


      Modified by ayton at 12:38 PM 4-17-2006


    21. Member
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      04-10-2006 09:52 PM #21
      Quote, originally posted by Skot53 »
      cool, i was wondering about that shifter box... Some pics would help ... Is it possible to find another way of securing the box to the floor? Like, self-tapping sheet metal screws or something? Just want to know what i'm in for...

      I can take a pic of the auto shifter box for reference.

      You shouldn't need to use any self tapping screws because all chassis are the same. Just the parts are different, so I suspect the shift relay tower will support the rest of the mechanism.

      keep in mind that, the gap I speak of is only like 2 mm, so once the rest is bolted up it should be no problem.

      I went back in today and put the pedals together with minimal cussing

      it definitely is easier to replace the shaft (even though getting the original one out is no real cake walk)
      Get yourself a work light if you dont have one. Forget about the round bulb type get a 12in halogen.
      It really help to have a clear view of what your doing.

      I should have the clutch cable hooked up by tommorrow evening after work, then I tackle the wiring stuff.

      I will have to get a new exhaust when I'm done with all of this ....mo money mo money mo money


    22. Member vwnut18t's Avatar
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      04-10-2006 11:55 PM #22
      I am going through a swap myself on my 96 golf Harlequin and I am finding what you are doing is good for me to read. You are a few steps ahead of me so I know what to expect. I realized my tranny had 90 mm axle flanges so I just changed them over to 100mm. It cost me $81 and some change for the two flanges and springs and a reseal kit for each side. Keep up the posts I am finding BROKE is the man for all the DIY's he has put up. Has answered all my questions so far.

    23. Member vwnut18t's Avatar
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      04-12-2006 12:38 AM #23
      Hey how did you get the brake pedal off? I am doing that now and have fiddled with it for about 30 min and decided to stop before I started cursing Just curious so I can get mine off. And the two little bolts that are on top of the shifter housing is what holds the center column on

    24. Member
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      04-12-2006 09:04 AM #24
      Quote, originally posted by vwnut18t »
      Hey how did you get the brake pedal off? I am doing that now and have fiddled with it for about 30 min and decided to stop before I started cursing Just curious so I can get mine off. And the two little bolts that are on top of the shifter housing is what holds the center column on

      I didn't take the brake pedal off.

      I messed with it for about 45 minutes and like I said when I went back I just decided it wasn't worth the trouble.

      just swap the shafts....it's way easier and there is no detrimental effect to running the larger brake pedal.

      Don't bother trying to take those two bolts off...that still wont help you. You would have to drop more than that.
      Its not worth dropping the dash and steering column to get the brake pedal swapped...trust me.

      I read other experiences and tried it and in the end I took the advice.

      I got stone walled at the dealer yesterday...I needed some small items that they did not have in stock and need to order so no work on the car yesterday.

      The clutch cable install kit (locks the cable to the tranny arm) and the timing inspection plug on the transmission.

      work will progress when I get this stuff in...


      Modified by ayton at 9:25 PM 4-12-2006


    25. Member
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      04-17-2006 12:11 AM #25
      well; I got my stuff in and decided to dive in. After wrestling with the damn clutch pedal I decided it was easier to put the clutch cable on before connecting the pedal to the cluster.

      That means I undid previous work and did it again.
      I did discover a problem with todays work though, it seems as though I am missing the firewall grommet for the cable.

      Soooooo, out it all comes again when I get that.
      I absolutely dread going to the dealer as they never have anything I need; I'm on a perpetual 2 day wait everytime....

      I did make some other progress with cleaning up my engine bay.

      the wires there were a mess, cuts splices and frayed coverings.

      I pulled it all cleaned them free of grease and dirt, and applied new electrical tape, friction tape and/or plastice loom where needed and required along with fresh zip ties. (every volks owners friend)

      I found this thread after my night of frustration...help for anyone attempting this for the first time.

      And just so you know the cable connects to the "first" hook on the pedal (the slot closest to the fire wall)

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1569293

      thats all until I get this stuff...


    26. 04-17-2006 11:29 AM #26
      Sounds like alot of progress. For some reason, this post hasn't been showing up on my current history. So you probably feel I've abandoned you. Sorry. Did you already find the hole through the firewall for the cable? It's pre-cut, but still in place. Just got to punch it out. If you have the old cable off a donor, the plastic cable guide that attaches to the firewall may already be attatched to the rubber gommet. I didn't see it on mine, so I bought one from the stealership. Wasted 15 bucks. If you were local, I'd give it to you. Plastic guise installs from the engine side. Plugs into the hole and twists to lock.
      Andrew I Johnson May 25, 1985 - September 30, 2011
      Permanently banned from MVWS. And CGW says I donít play well with others.
      Auto to manual transmittion swap. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Swap-FAQ-DIYhttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=cyclopath

    27. Member
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      04-17-2006 12:23 PM #27
      Quote, originally posted by Cyclopath »
      Sounds like alot of progress. For some reason, this post hasn't been showing up on my current history. So you probably feel I've abandoned you. Sorry. Did you already find the hole through the firewall for the cable? It's pre-cut, but still in place. Just got to punch it out. If you have the old cable off a donor, the plastic cable guide that attaches to the firewall may already be attatched to the rubber gommet. I didn't see it on mine, so I bought one from the stealership. Wasted 15 bucks. If you were local, I'd give it to you. Plastic guise installs from the engine side. Plugs into the hole and twists to lock.

      Thanks!
      no abandonment at all you have been there to help me through IM
      the hole was there already exposed the PO used it for running wires for a sound system install. I guess I'm going to blow $15 bucks today unless you want to ship it to me,if you have time? after the cable gets reinstalled the car will be ready to get the axles and get dropped back on the wheels.
      question...on the shifter box I see no frontal mounting point?

      the box itself has four mounting holes on the bottom; the rear two accept bolts from underneath.

      what happens to the front two?

      the auto shifter had a single front top bolt as well as the underneath mounting points.

      is there a bracket I'm missing?

      I can rig something up if necessary, just wondering.

      Anyone reading this, its not really that hard just labor intensive as anyone thats done this can tell you

      It is fun though

      Cyclopath you have an IM.


      Modified by ayton at 11:52 PM 4-17-2006


    28. 04-25-2006 10:41 PM #28
      I would disconnect the linkage from the tranny and after the tranny is out, remove the 3 bolts that hold the linkage to the steering rack. Then assemble in reverse. We did just the oposite and stripped the bolts. Not alot of room to work in with the tranny in the way. Then trying to line everything up and get the bolts started again with the tranny in the way was a real PITA.
      Andrew I Johnson May 25, 1985 - September 30, 2011
      Permanently banned from MVWS. And CGW says I donít play well with others.
      Auto to manual transmittion swap. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Swap-FAQ-DIYhttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=cyclopath

    29. Member Skot53's Avatar
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      04-25-2006 11:11 PM #29
      Quote, originally posted by Cyclopath »
      I would disconnect the linkage from the tranny and after the tranny is out, remove the 3 bolts that hold the linkage to the steering rack. Then assemble in reverse. We did just the oposite and stripped the bolts. Not alot of room to work in with the tranny in the way. Then trying to line everything up and get the bolts started again with the tranny in the way was a real PITA.

      Noted. Thanks for the tip- it seemed like that is what i should do. I was at the junkyard with some buddies this weekend looking for Subaru stuff, and i was looking at a Jetta. I commented to my friend how easy the linkage was to get to after the motor and tranny is removed...

    30. 04-26-2006 09:52 PM #30
      Getting the flywheel bolts out won't be too much of a problem. They look like they would take a special socket. But a regular 12 point socket will fit it. And they are on with just 15-18 foot pounds. But the pressure plate bolts are wicked tight. Put one of the flywheel bolts back in. Then run one of the bellhousing bolts through a box end wrench and thread it back into the block. Then catch the flywheel bolt with the open end of the wrench. It will hold everything in place while you wrestle the pressure plate bolts out. Blurry picture is installing the new bolts. Just the reverse for removal.




      Modified by Cyclopath at 9:53 PM 4-26-2006

      Andrew I Johnson May 25, 1985 - September 30, 2011
      Permanently banned from MVWS. And CGW says I donít play well with others.
      Auto to manual transmittion swap. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Swap-FAQ-DIYhttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=cyclopath

    31. Member vwnut18t's Avatar
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      04-27-2006 01:58 AM #31
      An impact gun works well to remove the bolts from the preasure plate as well!

      Well I put the 16valve axles in today and wow what a difference. The car runs ALOT smoother now. I think my axle issue is solved but only time will tell. My engine light is still on and my thermostat still doesnt work, but the car runs like a top for 105,000 miles on it. I solved the gauge issue by installing aftermarket gauges Oil preasure, water temp and just for fun a volt meter I found my digi camera so I will get some pics thursday and I will post a few
      If anybody needs it I have a complete 5spd pedal cluster for sale!

      -Adam


    32. Member Skot53's Avatar
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      04-30-2006 04:25 AM #32
      Help! I went all out today and worked my butt off, doing all of the teardown and installation in one day. I was hoping to have it running tonight, but it won't even turn over. I jumped 1to3 and 4to6; and disconnected the transmission computer under the drivers side rear seat. Whenever i go to start the car the throttle body makes a noise that my friend says is "Throttle Body Adaptation". Anyway- do you have any ideas?

      EDIT- OH! and i almost forgot. On the part of the wiring harness that used to go to the auto tranny, there are 4 plugs- the one that is straight 6 with the jumpers- the one that is several small wires, probably for the tranny computer; than two of the two prong connectors. There is one that will go to the manual transmission, but i am unsure which one to hook up, since they both fit.

      Another EDIT- I found out today that the car performs a throttle body adaptation every time the battery is disconnected than reconnected and the car is turned to on. Until the car actually starts, the throttle body will contine to make a warbled high pitched squeel, that kinda sounds like a fuel pump on a GM


      Modified by Skot53 at 11:11 AM 4-30-2006


    33. Member vwnut18t's Avatar
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      04-30-2006 08:16 AM #33
      the only thing you should be able to plug in is the speed sensor and it is not in the tranny wire bundle. There is one plug that has six wires and two that have two wires each and then the black skinny plug. that is four harnesses. the one you need to mess with is the six wire one and thats the one with the wires to jump. all other harnesses can be tucked away make sure you got the correct wires to jump.1&3 from left to right or 1&3 from right to left double check. Read off the wire colors to me and I may be able to tell you which ones go where. Also make sure you have all your ground wires hooked up, I know that sounds stupid but it is easy to overlook.

    34. 04-30-2006 08:53 AM #34
      For some vehicles, the 1-3 and 4-6 doesn't work. Remove these jumpers and try jumping 1-6. Keep the tranny computer unplugged. Don't need it anymore.
      Andrew I Johnson May 25, 1985 - September 30, 2011
      Permanently banned from MVWS. And CGW says I donít play well with others.
      Auto to manual transmittion swap. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Swap-FAQ-DIYhttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=cyclopath

    35. Member Skot53's Avatar
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      R53 BRG MCS JCW
      04-30-2006 10:45 AM #35
      Bummer. Jumping 1to6 didn't work either. I also checked my grounds . So, i wrote down all of the colors, just to make sure my head is screwed on straight- I WAS jumping
      1 (Y w/ Blu stripe) to 3 (Black) and
      4 (Brn) to 6 (R w/ Y stripe) -- Didn't turn over.
      So, then i tried to jump
      1 (Y w/ Blu stripe) to 6 (R w/ Y stripe)
      Still didn't turn over. I checked all of my connections in the engine, and tried to be as nice as possible in the fuse box area... Possibly i wiggled a relay loose under there. I'll go look. Any more suggestions would be really helpful!
      I took a lot of pictures during the whole process, so if you guys help get my car running, i'll give you that as a "Prize" (In reality, i am trying to get going and don't care about no stinking pics...)

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