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    Thread: 020 Manual Swap FAQ/DIY

    1. 04-17-2006 11:29 AM #26
      Sounds like alot of progress. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] For some reason, this post hasn't been showing up on my current history. So you probably feel I've abandoned you. Sorry. Did you already find the hole through the firewall for the cable? It's pre-cut, but still in place. Just got to punch it out. If you have the old cable off a donor, the plastic cable guide that attaches to the firewall may already be attatched to the rubber gommet. I didn't see it on mine, so I bought one from the stealership. Wasted 15 bucks. If you were local, I'd give it to you. Plastic guise installs from the engine side. Plugs into the hole and twists to lock.
      Andrew I Johnson May 25, 1985 - September 30, 2011
      Permanently banned from MVWS. And CGW says I don’t play well with others.
      Auto to manual transmittion swap. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Swap-FAQ-DIYhttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=cyclopath

    2. Member
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      '14 Outback 6spd MT, '95 BMW 318ti M50 swapped
      04-17-2006 12:23 PM #27
      Quote, originally posted by Cyclopath »
      Sounds like alot of progress. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] For some reason, this post hasn't been showing up on my current history. So you probably feel I've abandoned you. Sorry. Did you already find the hole through the firewall for the cable? It's pre-cut, but still in place. Just got to punch it out. If you have the old cable off a donor, the plastic cable guide that attaches to the firewall may already be attatched to the rubber gommet. I didn't see it on mine, so I bought one from the stealership. Wasted 15 bucks. If you were local, I'd give it to you. Plastic guise installs from the engine side. Plugs into the hole and twists to lock.

      Thanks!
      no abandonment at all you have been there to help me through IM [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      the hole was there already exposed the PO used it for running wires for a sound system install. I guess I'm going to blow $15 bucks today unless you want to ship it to me,if you have time? after the cable gets reinstalled the car will be ready to get the axles and get dropped back on the wheels.
      question...on the shifter box I see no frontal mounting point?
      the box itself has four mounting holes on the bottom; the rear two accept bolts from underneath.
      what happens to the front two?
      the auto shifter had a single front top bolt as well as the underneath mounting points.
      is there a bracket I'm missing?
      I can rig something up if necessary, just wondering.
      Anyone reading this, its not really that hard just labor intensive as anyone thats done this can tell you
      It is fun though

      Cyclopath you have an IM. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]


      Modified by ayton at 11:52 PM 4-17-2006

    3. 04-25-2006 10:41 PM #28
      I would disconnect the linkage from the tranny and after the tranny is out, remove the 3 bolts that hold the linkage to the steering rack. Then assemble in reverse. We did just the oposite and stripped the bolts. Not alot of room to work in with the tranny in the way. Then trying to line everything up and get the bolts started again with the tranny in the way was a real PITA.
      Andrew I Johnson May 25, 1985 - September 30, 2011
      Permanently banned from MVWS. And CGW says I don’t play well with others.
      Auto to manual transmittion swap. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Swap-FAQ-DIYhttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=cyclopath

    4. Member Skot53's Avatar
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      04-25-2006 11:11 PM #29
      Quote, originally posted by Cyclopath »
      I would disconnect the linkage from the tranny and after the tranny is out, remove the 3 bolts that hold the linkage to the steering rack. Then assemble in reverse. We did just the oposite and stripped the bolts. Not alot of room to work in with the tranny in the way. Then trying to line everything up and get the bolts started again with the tranny in the way was a real PITA.

      Noted. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] Thanks for the tip- it seemed like that is what i should do. I was at the junkyard with some buddies this weekend looking for Subaru stuff, and i was looking at a Jetta. I commented to my friend how easy the linkage was to get to after the motor and tranny is removed...

    5. 04-26-2006 09:52 PM #30
      Getting the flywheel bolts out won't be too much of a problem. They look like they would take a special socket. But a regular 12 point socket will fit it. And they are on with just 15-18 foot pounds. But the pressure plate bolts are wicked tight. Put one of the flywheel bolts back in. Then run one of the bellhousing bolts through a box end wrench and thread it back into the block. Then catch the flywheel bolt with the open end of the wrench. It will hold everything in place while you wrestle the pressure plate bolts out. Blurry picture is installing the new bolts. Just the reverse for removal.




      Modified by Cyclopath at 9:53 PM 4-26-2006
      Andrew I Johnson May 25, 1985 - September 30, 2011
      Permanently banned from MVWS. And CGW says I don’t play well with others.
      Auto to manual transmittion swap. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Swap-FAQ-DIYhttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=cyclopath

    6. Member vwnut18t's Avatar
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      First gen stomper.
      04-27-2006 01:58 AM #31
      An impact gun works well to remove the bolts from the preasure plate as well!
      Well I put the 16valve axles in today and wow what a difference. The car runs ALOT smoother now. I think my axle issue is solved but only time will tell. My engine light is still on and my thermostat still doesnt work, but the car runs like a top for 105,000 miles on it. I solved the gauge issue by installing aftermarket gauges Oil preasure, water temp and just for fun a volt meter [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] I found my digi camera so I will get some pics thursday and I will post a few
      If anybody needs it I have a complete 5spd pedal cluster for sale!
      -Adam

    7. Member Skot53's Avatar
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      04-30-2006 04:25 AM #32
      Help! I went all out today and worked my butt off, doing all of the teardown and installation in one day. I was hoping to have it running tonight, but it won't even turn over. I jumped 1to3 and 4to6; and disconnected the transmission computer under the drivers side rear seat. Whenever i go to start the car the throttle body makes a noise that my friend says is "Throttle Body Adaptation". Anyway- do you have any ideas?
      EDIT- OH! and i almost forgot. On the part of the wiring harness that used to go to the auto tranny, there are 4 plugs- the one that is straight 6 with the jumpers- the one that is several small wires, probably for the tranny computer; than two of the two prong connectors. There is one that will go to the manual transmission, but i am unsure which one to hook up, since they both fit.
      Another EDIT- I found out today that the car performs a throttle body adaptation every time the battery is disconnected than reconnected and the car is turned to on. Until the car actually starts, the throttle body will contine to make a warbled high pitched squeel, that kinda sounds like a fuel pump on a GM


      Modified by Skot53 at 11:11 AM 4-30-2006

    8. Member vwnut18t's Avatar
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      04-30-2006 08:16 AM #33
      the only thing you should be able to plug in is the speed sensor and it is not in the tranny wire bundle. There is one plug that has six wires and two that have two wires each and then the black skinny plug. that is four harnesses. the one you need to mess with is the six wire one and thats the one with the wires to jump. all other harnesses can be tucked away [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] make sure you got the correct wires to jump.1&3 from left to right or 1&3 from right to left double check. Read off the wire colors to me and I may be able to tell you which ones go where. Also make sure you have all your ground wires hooked up, I know that sounds stupid but it is easy to overlook.

    9. 04-30-2006 08:53 AM #34
      For some vehicles, the 1-3 and 4-6 doesn't work. Remove these jumpers and try jumping 1-6. Keep the tranny computer unplugged. Don't need it anymore.
      Andrew I Johnson May 25, 1985 - September 30, 2011
      Permanently banned from MVWS. And CGW says I don’t play well with others.
      Auto to manual transmittion swap. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Swap-FAQ-DIYhttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=cyclopath

    10. Member Skot53's Avatar
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      04-30-2006 10:45 AM #35
      Bummer. Jumping 1to6 didn't work either. I also checked my grounds . So, i wrote down all of the colors, just to make sure my head is screwed on straight- I WAS jumping
      1 (Y w/ Blu stripe) to 3 (Black) and
      4 (Brn) to 6 (R w/ Y stripe) -- Didn't turn over.
      So, then i tried to jump
      1 (Y w/ Blu stripe) to 6 (R w/ Y stripe)
      Still didn't turn over. I checked all of my connections in the engine, and tried to be as nice as possible in the fuse box area... Possibly i wiggled a relay loose under there. I'll go look. Any more suggestions would be really helpful!
      I took a lot of pictures during the whole process, so if you guys help get my car running, i'll give you that as a "Prize" (In reality, i am trying to get going and don't care about no stinking pics...)

    11. Member Skot53's Avatar
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      04-30-2006 12:11 PM #36
      Okay, Earlier i was reading around and i heard some mention about the reverse lights wiring and jumping certain wires to the park/neutral relay, also known as the 150 relay. where is this located, becuase i looked at the fuse box and didn't see and 150 relay... Perhaps it was removed? pictures of the relay in question would be helpful....

    12. Member vwnut18t's Avatar
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      First gen stomper.
      05-02-2006 01:55 PM #37
      Ayton here are the pics of the tranny mount. I couldnt really get closer but the shift linkage hooks to the mount and the mount bolts to the side of the transmission with three bolts. There should be three holes around the diff housing.


      Hope this helps. I had to use a big pry bar to move the tranny around in order to get the bolt stabbed and driven in.

    13. 05-17-2006 09:37 AM #38
      Has anyone verified that the 150 relay for the reverse lights does the job? I think on either page 1 or 2 someone mentioned it.
      I am now getting to this point in my swap.
      Thanks, its been a pita.

    14. 05-17-2006 10:37 AM #39
      Might try to wrap this up tonight. Thinking shorting pin 60 and 65 (yellow and white wires) on the TCM harness. Then short the two black with blue stripe wires off the neutral /park switch. Then find the white (other end of the TCM white wire) and black wire (from F8S to short out to apply the power to the switch and eventually to the back-up lights. Sound about right?
      Andrew I Johnson May 25, 1985 - September 30, 2011
      Permanently banned from MVWS. And CGW says I don’t play well with others.
      Auto to manual transmittion swap. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Swap-FAQ-DIYhttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=cyclopath

    15. 05-17-2006 11:28 AM #40
      I verified my thoughts by checking the resistance on the reverse switch. Switch is open while in reverse. Closed when not in reverse. (Of course, the bentley shows it too).
      So just need a switched power and the reverse light wire.
      I would test some of the TCM wires for power when the car is one, but I am waiting on a few parts.
      Are you able to verify any of the powered wires from the TCM? I don't have a problem tapping into the headlight harness for switched power.



      Modified by vwman099 at 11:33 AM 5-17-2006

    16. 05-17-2006 12:27 PM #41
      I have verified that the Blue/Black wire on the taillight harness is the backup. The backup lights are already grounded.



      Modified by vwman099 at 12:11 PM 5-19-2006

    17. Member
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      '14 Outback 6spd MT, '95 BMW 318ti M50 swapped
      05-25-2006 10:06 PM #42
      Quote, originally posted by vwman099 »
      I spent quite a bit of time dealing with the return spring for the pedal. I ended up compressing it in the bench vise, strapping it with wire ties, and cutting the ties once I put it in. Maybe I didn't get the trick to doing this....

      That is exactly what I did its a good thing you posted that I totally forgot about that it will save someone a lot of time in the furure! [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    18. Member
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      '14 Outback 6spd MT, '95 BMW 318ti M50 swapped
      05-25-2006 11:02 PM #43
      Quote, originally posted by vwman099 »
      Did you drop the whole subframe?
      I took off the tierods (busted one in the process), removed the lower ball joints, and took off all of the motor/tranny mounts and brackets.....

      No didn't have to...i'm doing control arms because mine were SHOT! the center of the drivers side was completely detached. Just an FYI the R32 rear control arm bushings are HOT [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] MUCH easier install and they still seem very stiff and pliable.

    19. 05-25-2006 11:10 PM #44
      Did you remove the pedal cluster? I didn't and couldn't imagine doing it.
      I pulled the "short" rod out of the car and replaced with the long one. In order to do that I had to cut the plastic trim to the left of the rod. Not sure how you approached that. I think I have a few hours of time spent under the dash.
      That clutch pedal is something I try to forget.... I still need to put another "clip" on the end of the rod. The automatic rod only has one clip, the manual has one on each end. I had to go to the dealership to order another and now I can't get the it on.......


      Modified by vwman099 at 11:11 PM 5-25-2006

    20. 05-25-2006 11:25 PM #45
      I removed the plastic shield then stuck my son under the dash to do the clutch pedal and spring. He came out 10 minutes later and said he was done. Was right in the middle of telling him it might be a PITA. Didn't believe him until I crawled under the dash and checked for myself. Can't imagine swapping out the whole pedal cluster. I personally don't care if the brake pedal is alittle wider.
      Andrew I Johnson May 25, 1985 - September 30, 2011
      Permanently banned from MVWS. And CGW says I don’t play well with others.
      Auto to manual transmittion swap. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Swap-FAQ-DIYhttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=cyclopath

    21. Member
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      '14 Outback 6spd MT, '95 BMW 318ti M50 swapped
      05-25-2006 11:44 PM #46
      Quote, originally posted by Cyclopath »
      I removed the plastic shield then stuck my son under the dash to do the clutch pedal and spring. He came out 10 minutes later and said he was done. Was right in the middle of telling him it might be a PITA. Didn't believe him until I crawled under the dash and checked for myself. Can't imagine swapping out the whole pedal cluster. I personally don't care if the brake pedal is alittle wider.

      I hear YOU! I originally tried to do it but it just wasn't necessary or practical...the cluster is really wrapped around stuff under there. Check the early part of the thread vwman099 many of your questions are answered there. rhyme and reason behind the swap.

    22. 06-05-2006 10:42 PM #47
      cyclopath, saw you posted in the mk3 issues thread.... and I remembered I needed to reply....
      Well I determined that my reverse switch was malfunctioning.... Sometimes it would allow current through even when it was not in reverse. So I ordered a new one from fap99 and tested the switch. As I thought, when reverse is in gear the switch closes, and vice versa.
      So I used the switched power coming from the 6 pin connector (the same on jumpered from the auto tranny harness) to power one side of the reverse switch. Then I hooked a wire to the other side of the switch and pulled it through the firewall down to the driver's side kick panel. Which is where you can find the two blue/black wires, one is in a smaller loom (going to rear of the car) and one is in the larger loom going to the TCM harness. I patched that wire (from the reverse switch) into the blue/black wire on the rear harness which goes to the reverse lights. The reverse lights are grounded at the light, so no issues there....
      Things I realize: I didn't get to determine the exact source of the current for the 6 pin harness, so I'm not sure how much amperage the wiring is fused for.... For now I needed a quick fix, but I'm sure you can tap into one of the park or light sources in at the fuse panel or by the front lights harness. For as little as the lights are used, I'll take my chances.
      From what I understand, the Relay that controls the reverse lights is tied into the TCM. One of the blue/black wires runs to the relay at the fuse panel, then the other goes to the TCM to activate or deactivate the relay as needed..... Cyclopath, I think thats what you were getting at.
      You probably could just provide power to one of the old TCM wires at the tranny, and then just splice it over into the reverse lights.... Thus, elminating the need to pull a wire.


      Modified by vwman099 at 10:43 PM 6-5-2006

    23. Member
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      '14 Outback 6spd MT, '95 BMW 318ti M50 swapped
      06-06-2006 12:44 PM #48
      Quote, originally posted by vwman099 »
      So I used the switched power coming from the 6 pin connector (the same on jumpered from the auto tranny harness) to power one side of the reverse switch.
      Modified by vwman099 at 10:43 PM 6-5-2006

      This is part of my thinking process also...the two wires left over after jumping (I left loose ) so that I could tinker with the reverse after I get the car going, I'm putting an exahuast together for it now.

    24. 06-10-2006 08:10 PM #49
      Anyone with the P1613 error code, I got an easy fix for you. Find a friend with a laptop with the VAG-COM program installed. Need to change the transmission code in the ECM from auto to manual. Piece of cake for anyone who has and knows how to run the program. You're changing the code from 00001 to 00000.
      To recode go to 11 (log-on) and enter 01283. Click [Do It!], than go to 07 Recode and enter the software codeing of your original ECU. check for typos than click [Do It!].
      For the record known codeings for 037 906 259 are:
      ;00000 Golf Jetta Manual trans TIER 1
      ;00001 Golf Jetta Auto Trans TIER 1
      ;00002 Cabrio manual trans
      ;00003 Cabrio auto trans
      ;00004 Golf Jetta Cabrio manual trans TLEV
      ;00005 Golf Jetta Cabrio auto trans TLEV
      ;00006 Passat with manual trans.
      ;00007 Passat with auto trans.
      NB: ECU will not use the new codeing utill the ignition has been cycled once.
      Andrew I Johnson May 25, 1985 - September 30, 2011
      Permanently banned from MVWS. And CGW says I don’t play well with others.
      Auto to manual transmittion swap. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Swap-FAQ-DIYhttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=cyclopath

    25. 09-09-2006 12:51 AM #50
      hey, i was just wondering if someone could give me a short overview of everything i need to swap in a manual
      i can get the short ratio trans from a mk2 with axels and everything for cheap, and i was told it would bolt right in

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