020 Manual Swap FAQ/DIY

[Skot53]

Okay, Earlier i was reading around and i heard some mention about the reverse lights wiring and jumping certain wires to the park/neutral relay, also known as the 150 relay. where is this located, becuase i looked at the fuse box and didn't see and 150 relay... Perhaps it was removed? pictures of the relay in question would be helpful....

[vwnut18t]

Ayton here are the pics of the tranny mount. I couldnt really get closer but the shift linkage hooks to the mount and the mount bolts to the side of the transmission with three bolts. There should be three holes around the diff housing.

Hope this helps. I had to use a big pry bar to move the tranny around in order to get the bolt stabbed and driven in.

[vwman099]

Has anyone verified that the 150 relay for the reverse lights does the job? I think on either page 1 or 2 someone mentioned it.

I am now getting to this point in my swap.

Thanks, its been a pita.

[Cyclopath]

Might try to wrap this up tonight. Thinking shorting pin 60 and 65 (yellow and white wires) on the TCM harness. Then short the two black with blue stripe wires off the neutral /park switch. Then find the white (other end of the TCM white wire) and black wire (from F8S to short out to apply the power to the switch and eventually to the back-up lights. Sound about right?

[vwman099]

I verified my thoughts by checking the resistance on the reverse switch. Switch is open while in reverse. Closed when not in reverse. (Of course, the bentley shows it too).

So just need a switched power and the reverse light wire.

I would test some of the TCM wires for power when the car is one, but I am waiting on a few parts.

Are you able to verify any of the powered wires from the TCM? I don't have a problem tapping into the headlight harness for switched power.

Modified by vwman099 at 11:33 AM 5-17-2006

[vwman099]

I have verified that the Blue/Black wire on the taillight harness is the backup. The backup lights are already grounded.

Modified by vwman099 at 12:11 PM 5-19-2006

[ayton]

Quote, originally posted by vwman099 »

I spent quite a bit of time dealing with the return spring for the pedal. I ended up compressing it in the bench vise, strapping it with wire ties, and cutting the ties once I put it in. Maybe I didn't get the trick to doing this....

That is exactly what I did its a good thing you posted that I totally forgot about that it will save someone a lot of time in the furure!

[ayton]

Quote, originally posted by vwman099 »

Did you drop the whole subframe? I took off the tierods (busted one in the process), removed the lower ball joints, and took off all of the motor/tranny mounts and brackets.....

No didn't have to...i'm doing control arms because mine were SHOT! the center of the drivers side was completely detached. Just an FYI the R32 rear control arm bushings are HOT MUCH easier install and they still seem very stiff and pliable.

[vwman099]

Did you remove the pedal cluster? I didn't and couldn't imagine doing it.

I pulled the "short" rod out of the car and replaced with the long one. In order to do that I had to cut the plastic trim to the left of the rod. Not sure how you approached that. I think I have a few hours of time spent under the dash.

That clutch pedal is something I try to forget.... I still need to put another "clip" on the end of the rod. The automatic rod only has one clip, the manual has one on each end. I had to go to the dealership to order another and now I can't get the it on.......


Modified by vwman099 at 11:11 PM 5-25-2006

[Cyclopath]

I removed the plastic shield then stuck my son under the dash to do the clutch pedal and spring. He came out 10 minutes later and said he was done. Was right in the middle of telling him it might be a PITA. Didn't believe him until I crawled under the dash and checked for myself. Can't imagine swapping out the whole pedal cluster. I personally don't care if the brake pedal is alittle wider.

[ayton]

Quote, originally posted by Cyclopath »

I removed the plastic shield then stuck my son under the dash to do the clutch pedal and spring. He came out 10 minutes later and said he was done. Was right in the middle of telling him it might be a PITA. Didn't believe him until I crawled under the dash and checked for myself. Can't imagine swapping out the whole pedal cluster. I personally don't care if the brake pedal is alittle wider.

I hear YOU! I originally tried to do it but it just wasn't necessary or practical...the cluster is really wrapped around stuff under there. Check the early part of the thread vwman099 many of your questions are answered there. rhyme and reason behind the swap.

[vwman099]

cyclopath, saw you posted in the mk3 issues thread.... and I remembered I needed to reply....

Well I determined that my reverse switch was malfunctioning.... Sometimes it would allow current through even when it was not in reverse. So I ordered a new one from fap99 and tested the switch. As I thought, when reverse is in gear the switch closes, and vice versa.

So I used the switched power coming from the 6 pin connector (the same on jumpered from the auto tranny harness) to power one side of the reverse switch. Then I hooked a wire to the other side of the switch and pulled it through the firewall down to the driver's side kick panel. Which is where you can find the two blue/black wires, one is in a smaller loom (going to rear of the car) and one is in the larger loom going to the TCM harness. I patched that wire (from the reverse switch) into the blue/black wire on the rear harness which goes to the reverse lights. The reverse lights are grounded at the light, so no issues there....

Things I realize: I didn't get to determine the exact source of the current for the 6 pin harness, so I'm not sure how much amperage the wiring is fused for.... For now I needed a quick fix, but I'm sure you can tap into one of the park or light sources in at the fuse panel or by the front lights harness. For as little as the lights are used, I'll take my chances.

From what I understand, the Relay that controls the reverse lights is tied into the TCM. One of the blue/black wires runs to the relay at the fuse panel, then the other goes to the TCM to activate or deactivate the relay as needed..... Cyclopath, I think thats what you were getting at.

You probably could just provide power to one of the old TCM wires at the tranny, and then just splice it over into the reverse lights.... Thus, elminating the need to pull a wire.


Modified by vwman099 at 10:43 PM 6-5-2006

[ayton]

Quote, originally posted by vwman099 »

So I used the switched power coming from the 6 pin connector (the same on jumpered from the auto tranny harness) to power one side of the reverse switch. Modified by vwman099 at 10:43 PM 6-5-2006

This is part of my thinking process also...the two wires left over after jumping (I left loose ) so that I could tinker with the reverse after I get the car going, I'm putting an exahuast together for it now.

[Cyclopath]

Anyone with the P1613 error code, I got an easy fix for you. Find a friend with a laptop with the VAG-COM program installed. Need to change the transmission code in the ECM from auto to manual. Piece of cake for anyone who has and knows how to run the program. You're changing the code from 00001 to 00000.

To recode go to 11 (log-on) and enter 01283. Click [Do It!], than go to 07 Recode and enter the software codeing of your original ECU. check for typos than click [Do It!].

For the record known codeings for 037 906 259 are:
;00000 Golf Jetta Manual trans TIER 1
;00001 Golf Jetta Auto Trans TIER 1
;00002 Cabrio manual trans
;00003 Cabrio auto trans
;00004 Golf Jetta Cabrio manual trans TLEV
;00005 Golf Jetta Cabrio auto trans TLEV
;00006 Passat with manual trans.
;00007 Passat with auto trans.

NB: ECU will not use the new codeing utill the ignition has been cycled once.

[midwestjetta]

hey, i was just wondering if someone could give me a short overview of everything i need to swap in a manual

i can get the short ratio trans from a mk2 with axels and everything for cheap, and i was told it would bolt right in

[vwnut18t]

The trans will work, you just need to get the proper mkIII mount. The pedal assembly will have to come from a mkIII though. I have a complete peddal cluster if you need it. $75 shipped and its yours. You will have to get mkIII mounts though if your car is infact the 98 gls. The axles are close in sizes but believe me you have to get the propper size for your application. Read through the entire thread and you will see everything you will need to know about the swap. I am sure we will all chime in if you have further questions.

[Cyclopath]

Tranny will bolt right in with your MKIII mount. No problem. The MKII axles will not work. You will need MKIII. Find out what the tranny code code is, and I can tell you what flange size and what the final spindle size is. You may or may not need to swap out the flanges on the tranny diff to match the axles. Not a big deal, but you don't want to be surprised when you get into it. Clutch pedal, cable, linkage, and shifter will have to be MKIII.

[midwestjetta]

can you use the axles that are on the car with the automatic?

or are the axles for a manual longer/shorter

[vwnut18t]

No you cant use the automatic axles. They mount differently than the 5spd axles. You will need to get different axles. If it is a standard tranny with 100mm axle cups then just ask the parts store for axles for your year car. Unless you have a doner car then you can swap everything over.

[Cyclopath]

The white and yellow wire is covered with a black insulation. So it looks like a large black wire. There's 2 of the large black wires. Both are not used after the swap. So cut into them. If you get the red and green wire first, cut into the second one. It will be the white and yellow.

[ayton]

Quote, originally posted by Cyclopath »

The white and yellow wire is covered with a black insulation. So it looks like a large black wire. There's 2 of the large black wires. Both are not used after the swap. So cut into them. If you get the red and green wire first, cut into the second one. It will be the white and yellow.

I cut into into it and believe me it was not there ...inside the car. I went through all of them looking and it just was not there so I went the other way...it works so I'm happy!


Modified by ayton at 10:57 AM 9-15-2006

[Cyclopath]

Quote, originally posted by 5speedT »

Did you ever have a problem after the 5 speed swap with your brake pedal switch? After my swap I dont have brake lights? The switch sits like 2 inches away from the pedal.

I kept the original auto brake pedal. Alot easier than swapping out the whole cluster and doesn't create new problems. I've driven cars with auto and manual brake pedals. Didn't notice any difference. And I have a size 12 shoe.

[vwman099]

and I thought I busted something on my brake light switch.

To fix it, I first bent the bracket a bit and then I plastic welded some material onto the end of the switch.

Maybe I did break something? But it has worked for the past 6 months.

[moder13]

Quote, originally posted by ayton »

flush and fill the tranny with fresh lubricant and also do the seals. GAP sells a "kit" for like $50 For the $250 you already have it will get you the clutch kit and the above stated install kit. may as well do the flange seals also....another $25 or so for both sides.

thanks ayton

[Jg022]

having a complete donor car....what do you guys recommend i buy new, such as seals, new parts that will likely be too worn, etc. Apart from the parts from the donor, will i need to buy anything else as replacements?

i'm only going to have a max of 3 days to do the swap so i don't wanna run into a small problem because i don't have the time to order something and wait for it to come in, so i just want to be prepared ahead of time.

[vwman099]

Quote, originally posted by Jg022 »

i'm only going to have a max of 3 days to do the swap so i don't wanna run into a small problem because i don't have the time to order something and wait for it to come in, so i just want to be prepared ahead of time.

Stuff that took me the most time was messing with putting the clutch cable in and dealing with a couple of bolts I broke which set me back a day. It took me 4 days because I had to wait on some parts I had overnighted.

[Jg022]

Quote, originally posted by ayton »

I also changed the coolant flange today and re routing the coolant hoses was simple. It looked harder than it was, I didnt have to buy anything special either. I had a length of 3/4 in hose and I used about 16-18 inches to tie the coolant bottle back into the coolant pipe coming from the heater core. DONE. It looks very clean and since it was roll bought hose it had some curve already in it...no kinks or sharp bends to worry about.

Is this the part i'll be needing?
http://www.germanautoparts.com...117/7

(the one for a manual transmission)

I don't really understand what you are rerouting since you are taking away the auto tranny, and putting in a manual tranny which doesnt need the coolant flowing through it. I though you would just be left without that hose nor a place to plug them into.

more details/help?

[ayton]

Quote, originally posted by Jg022 »

Is this the part i'll be needing? http://www.germanautoparts.com...117/7 (the one for a manual transmission) I don't really understand what you are rerouting since you are taking away the auto tranny, and putting in a manual tranny which doesnt need the coolant flowing through it. I though you would just be left without that hose nor a place to plug them into. more details/help?

Yes that is the part you will be needing.
Basically as far as re-routing what you are actually doing is doing away with one of the outputs on the coolant flange.
You have a line in and out of the tranny cooler on the AUTO but when you convert to manual you no longer need those lines so instead of the coolant bottle feeding the tranny cooler BACK into the head you just go from coolant bottle back to the pipe.

[Jg022]

I have a donor manual car...could i take the coolant flange from that one and put it into my car for the time being? Shipping the part to get here by saturday (tomorrow) is going to cost ~40 for a $10 item.

I have a full auto shop to do the swap in but i have to be gone before monday so i'm trying to see if i can just swap the part from the donor or will removing it and putting it on a different car weaken the seal too much?

[Cyclopath]

Just connect the two hoses from the tranny cooler together. Piece of pipe inside the tubing and two clamps. That's whet we did when the cooler crapped the bed.

[ayton]

you can swap the flange from the donor as long as the O ring is good you"ll be fine. its plastic just make sure you dont wrench on it too hard or it will crack on you

[Cyclopath]

Hahaha. I know what you mean about the camera. After I got started, my hands were so dirty, I wasn't about to touch my camera. Wish I had the wife document it. I'd be a superstar. Pretty much did the swap with no prior knowledge of what I was doing. One of the early pioneers. Ran into all kinds of snags. Hopefully I and alot of other people have shared every possible problem you can run into. I dropped the subframe to remove the auto tranny. Throwing the manual in from the bottom with the help of a ATV/motorcycle lift was a piece of cake. Got a crap-ton of tools. Plus a compressor. I would not recomend swapping out the whole pedal assembly. Unless you have alot of patience and time. Just pull the short shaft out, and throw the longer manual shaft in with the clutch pedal.

[vwman099]

that's the tranny bracket right?
etka has: 1hm199353B

[Jg022]

Hmm i just found it on 1stvwparts....but:

Engine / transaxle - Engine and trans mounting - Mount - Bracket Left
Manual trans 1995 - 1999

Engine / transaxle - Engine mounting - Mount - Bracket Left
Manual trans - 2.0 liter 1993 - 1994

Engine / transaxle - Engine mounting - Mount - Bracket Rear
Manual trans - 4 cylinder gas 1996 - 1999

What are the dif's in these parts, they are the same part number (1HM199353B) ...some are left and some are rear and they are for different years

[ayton]

they are all the same ...if you have access to an MK2 you can use that one too