Username or Email Address
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up

    VWVortex


    Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
    Results 71 to 105 of 142

    Thread: 020 Manual Swap FAQ/DIY

    1. 01-15-2007 03:37 PM #71
      MAN that plastic piece between the pedals and all the wires/fusebox is such a crap-ass m'effer....it wasnt that hard to take it out on the donor car, i dunno why my car hates me.

    2. 01-15-2007 07:26 PM #72
      just pry it out w a screwdriver.

    3. 01-15-2007 08:09 PM #73
      Well, got the clutch pedal in today...sorta....the only difficult parts was taking out the plastic cover thing, because i didnt realize that there was a clip on the top also holding the cables, so i kept pulling and nothing.

      Also i'm having trouble figuring out the spring and where it mounts on the car (not the pedal)...for now its in somehow but i'm pretty sure thats not how its supposed to go in.

      overall, i spent about 5 hours doing it all, including going to home depot to buy a work lamp and some zipties for the spring, and also didnt have my bentley with me because i left it at the shop

      So if anyone wants to be nice and scan/post the page dealing with the spring so i can see how that goes.


    4. 01-15-2007 10:55 PM #74
      If you look at the very top of the bracket for the pedal assembly ontop where the clutch pedal sits youll see a small notch cutout. There is a white nylon pivot that is supposed to be there for the pedal to sit into, the end of the spring that has the protuding pivot(bottom), then the top part of the spring rides on the peal arm.

    5. 01-15-2007 11:06 PM #75
      Yea i know the white nylon "groove" sits in on the pedal side, and on the wall there is a metal bracket that sorta pops out with a notch cutout in it but the notch is smaller than the stub on the spring.

    6. 01-15-2007 11:16 PM #76
      sent IM

    7. 01-16-2007 09:57 AM #77
      I used a piece of gum to hold the plastic piece onto the seat in the firewall. and I compressed the spring assembly in a vice and strapped it with a wire tire.

      there is a pic of it further down on this page:
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...age=5


    8. Member swingwing205's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jun 13th, 2001
      Location
      Knoxville, TN
      Posts
      3,058
      01-18-2007 04:53 PM #78
      Quote, originally posted by midwestjetta »

      but i did notice on my car (auto) theres a big blac box that the cable goes into on the firewall

      but on GAP the manual cable does not have that box

      That big black box on the throttle cable you're talking about is called the "kickdown switch". On a manual car, although it's not used, that's a good thing to have, because if you ever get the "baelle" to run NOS, then you could use that as your NOS switch, kind of like a wide open throttle switch. It only works if you floor the gas pedal.

      This is something I'm probably going to do myself, very convienient, just run your wire and use the old connector (you're not going to use it anyway, since that connector ran to the TCU for the auto you're replacing). That is if you're going to run NOS only with the throttle wide open....


    9. 01-30-2007 04:07 PM #79
      hey guys,
      made a post last year about doing an auto to manual swap.
      Its going to be a definate go this summer.
      however, unlike all of you, i'm going to have to do this one in the parking lot infront of my student townhouse.
      I'm going to harvest everything i can from a scrap yard once the snow clears, then order anything new that i may need.
      hopefully get the car as prepped as possible one weekend, (do everything i can without rendering the car immobile)
      and get the swap done the next weekend.
      I got 4 day weekends all summer term.
      other thank jacks, stands and the basic sockets/wrenches, what special tools do I need?

    10. 01-30-2007 04:17 PM #80
      You'll need your bentley...as for things that you can get out of the way, you can install the clutch pedal and cable (which is where i'm at now, due to the cold weather) and just ziptie the clutch cable out of the way. Currently i press the pedal to switch from D, N, R, and 1 2 3....so i have my fun for now...

      10 Pages WOO


    11. 01-30-2007 09:16 PM #81
      Quote, originally posted by swingwing205 »
      That big black box on the throttle cable you're talking about is called the "kickdown switch". On a manual car, although it's not used, that's a good thing to have, because if you ever get the "baelle" to run NOS, then you could use that as your NOS switch, kind of like a wide open throttle switch. It only works if you floor the gas pedal.

      This is something I'm probably going to do myself, very convienient, just run your wire and use the old connector (you're not going to use it anyway, since that connector ran to the TCU for the auto you're replacing). That is if you're going to run NOS only with the throttle wide open....

      so is it absolutely nessecary on a auto? what does it do?


    12. 01-31-2007 03:37 PM #82
      are there any pics of the clutch pedal mounting?
      this sounds easy enough, and i might try to get this done this weekend if i have time.

      I think i used the clutch-cable hole in the firewall for my stereo amp wiring when I put that in a few years ago.
      I guess i'll have to re-route that.


    13. Member
      Join Date
      Mar 12th, 2003
      Location
      Westchester County, NY
      Posts
      2,026
      Vehicles
      '14 Outback 6spd MT, '95 BMW 318ti M50 swapped
      01-31-2007 04:14 PM #83
      Quote, originally posted by Kaptain KMAN »
      are there any pics of the clutch pedal mounting?
      this sounds easy enough, and i might try to get this done this weekend if i have time.

      I think i used the clutch-cable hole in the firewall for my stereo amp wiring when I put that in a few years ago.
      I guess i'll have to re-route that.

      Page 3 of this thread.


    14. 02-05-2007 11:15 PM #84
      Bought a running rust bucket for 300. Made the mistake of giving the engine away with the fly wheel attached. So I bought a clutch kit with new bolts and a lightweight flywheel. New stamped steel plates between the engine and tranny. Coolant flange, and clutch cable. Sold off the rest of the car and practically did the swap for free.

      Looks good, but my floor jack went through the rocker panel and into the rear seat.


      Modified by Cyclopath at 10:17 PM 2-5-2007

      Andrew I Johnson May 25, 1985 - September 30, 2011
      Permanently banned from MVWS. And CGW says I don’t play well with others.
      Auto to manual transmittion swap. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Swap-FAQ-DIYhttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=cyclopath

    15. 02-06-2007 09:39 AM #85
      My parts list comes to around 750 with new clutch kit, new clutch cable, and a new axle. I probably could've done it for 650, but I ran into the usual unexpected things.

    16. 02-07-2007 10:23 AM #86
      If i can't find a donor car, i'll probably take most of my parts off a car at the wreckers. Its a good experience to dissassemble a car that you don't have any attachment too.

      My plan is to get the 5spd tranny soon, and clean it up inside during the winter, buy a new clutch and light flywheel, and be ready to do the swap once the snow is gone.

      If you find a good wreckers, you can get parts really cheap, and you don't have the hastle of bringing in a donor, although, i recognize the advantage of having one.


    17. Member MRosier's Avatar
      Join Date
      Sep 17th, 2006
      Posts
      3,447
      Vehicles
      '96 Cabrio VR6T, '97 Jetta VR6T (rip)
      03-31-2007 05:24 PM #87
      im in the middle of the swap right now, anyone know what the wire is for (grouping of 6 different colored wires) that comes up into the console from the rear and attaches to the automatic shift box is for? We cut it off to drop the auto shift box, do I just tie it back? Is is part of the park/neutral safety switch? TIA

    18. Banned moder13's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 16th, 2005
      Posts
      6,163
      03-31-2007 10:35 PM #88
      hey guys. i ripped the engine/tranny out of the donor car today. starting to get everything else together. so the linkage and everything will fit in my car without any real modification?

    19. Member
      Join Date
      Mar 12th, 2003
      Location
      Westchester County, NY
      Posts
      2,026
      Vehicles
      '14 Outback 6spd MT, '95 BMW 318ti M50 swapped
      03-31-2007 10:43 PM #89
      Quote, originally posted by MRosier »
      im in the middle of the swap right now, anyone know what the wire is for (grouping of 6 different colored wires) that comes up into the console from the rear and attaches to the automatic shift box is for? We cut it off to drop the auto shift box, do I just tie it back? Is is part of the park/neutral safety switch? TIA

      just tie them back or go crazy and pull them out like cyclopath did

      I just snipped mine back and taped them off.

      Quote, originally posted by moder13 »
      hey guys. i ripped the engine/tranny out of the donor car today. starting to get everything else together. so the linkage and everything will fit in my car without any real modification?

      No modifications just line the stuff up and bolt it up.


    20. Banned moder13's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 16th, 2005
      Posts
      6,163
      04-01-2007 03:54 PM #90
      thanks ayton. i got everything out of the donor car. the only thing i cant figure out is the metal piece going through the clutch cable hole.


      Modified by moder13 at 5:00 PM 4-1-2007

    21. Member MRosier's Avatar
      Join Date
      Sep 17th, 2006
      Posts
      3,447
      Vehicles
      '96 Cabrio VR6T, '97 Jetta VR6T (rip)
      04-01-2007 05:57 PM #91
      just finished the swap on my car today. started right up with pins 1 to 3 and 4 to 6 jumped on the park/neutral safety switch. Idles/shifts fine but I have a terrible vibration problem now. We checked the entire car, upon acceleration or when the car starts very bad vibration you can feel throughout the interior. We did put an engine mount onto my car from the donor because mine was bad. Could that be it? What's going on here? We also removed the "brick"/weight attached to the sub frame which IIRC is supposed to prevent vibration but the 'tex says its useless.

    22. 04-01-2007 06:50 PM #92
      Quote, originally posted by moder13 »
      the only thing i cant figure out is the metal piece going through the clutch cable hole.

      Which end of the cable are you talking about? There is a plastic piece that inserts, twists, and locks into place on the firewall. The hole is pre-cut. Just punch it out.

      Other end normally has the rectangle shaped stamped steel with a large hole in the middle. Then the rubber absorber. Then a smaller stamp steel plate with a hole and slot. Cable goes through the hole and locks on the slot.

      Quote, originally posted by MRosier »
      I have a terrible vibration problem now. We also removed the "brick"/weight attached to the sub frame which IIRC is supposed to prevent vibration but the 'tex says its useless.

      Weight is olny 2 bolts. Throw it on and see if the vibration disappears. If not, shock the wheels, pull the e-brake, and attempt to drive and reverse while someone watches the engine for excessive movement. Normally OEM motor mounts are pretty much shot after 50,000 miles.

      Andrew I Johnson May 25, 1985 - September 30, 2011
      Permanently banned from MVWS. And CGW says I don’t play well with others.
      Auto to manual transmittion swap. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Swap-FAQ-DIYhttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=cyclopath

    23. Member
      Join Date
      Mar 12th, 2003
      Location
      Westchester County, NY
      Posts
      2,026
      Vehicles
      '14 Outback 6spd MT, '95 BMW 318ti M50 swapped
      04-01-2007 06:51 PM #93
      Quote, originally posted by MRosier »
      just finished the swap on my car today. started right up with pins 1 to 3 and 4 to 6 jumped on the park/neutral safety switch. Idles/shifts fine but I have a terrible vibration problem now. We checked the entire car, upon acceleration or when the car starts very bad vibration you can feel throughout the interior. We did put an engine mount onto my car from the donor because mine was bad. Could that be it? What's going on here? We also removed the "brick"/weight attached to the sub frame which IIRC is supposed to prevent vibration but the 'tex says its useless.
      if the vibration is very evident that could be the problem. was it a stock mount? make sure the down pipe and exhaust are properly hung and aligned thats probably it.

    24. Member
      Join Date
      May 28th, 2000
      Posts
      4,025
      Vehicles
      96 Jetta GLS, 92 Jetta GL
      04-01-2007 07:18 PM #94
      Quote, originally posted by MRosier »
      just finished the swap on my car today. started right up with pins 1 to 3 and 4 to 6 jumped on the park/neutral safety switch. Idles/shifts fine but I have a terrible vibration problem now. We checked the entire car, upon acceleration or when the car starts very bad vibration you can feel throughout the interior. We did put an engine mount onto my car from the donor because mine was bad. Could that be it? What's going on here? We also removed the "brick"/weight attached to the sub frame which IIRC is supposed to prevent vibration but the 'tex says its useless.

      Which mount was it you replaced, front or rear? I did use the front mount bracket from the manual car, which requires a different mount as far as I know. Could be wrong, but did not want to take the chance. If VW engineers put a brick weight on the subframe - be assured, it is there for a purpose.


    25. Member MRosier's Avatar
      Join Date
      Sep 17th, 2006
      Posts
      3,447
      Vehicles
      '96 Cabrio VR6T, '97 Jetta VR6T (rip)
      04-01-2007 07:47 PM #95
      I replaced the front engine mount. I left the weight at my buddys garage I'll have to go back tomorrow and grab it.

    26. Banned moder13's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 16th, 2005
      Posts
      6,163
      04-01-2007 08:25 PM #96
      well this is the piece. its a metal plate.
      in the engine bay.

      in the interior.

      here is the plate (the piece that sticks through the hole is on top)

      here is all the parts from the shift linkage to the pedal and cable.

      and here is the engine and tranny assembly.

      i just dont know if i have to remove the plate because i have to take off all the pedals. which is why you guys told me to just take off the shaft and clutch pedal.


    27. Member
      Join Date
      Mar 12th, 2003
      Location
      Westchester County, NY
      Posts
      2,026
      Vehicles
      '14 Outback 6spd MT, '95 BMW 318ti M50 swapped
      04-01-2007 09:44 PM #97
      can you take a more expanded shot from the engine bay side? its hard to tell by the pics what I'm looking at.
      and yes definitely just swap the shaft and pedal. By far the easiest thing to do.

    28. Banned moder13's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 16th, 2005
      Posts
      6,163
      04-01-2007 10:44 PM #98
      Quote, originally posted by ayton »
      can you take a more expanded shot from the engine bay side? its hard to tell by the pics what I'm looking at.

      i have the shaft and pedal already out. but the hole that the clutch cable goes through needs this piece for the rubber piece shown on cyclopath's picture posted on the previous page to go onto. did you guys have this piece to worry about?


    29. Member
      Join Date
      Mar 12th, 2003
      Location
      Westchester County, NY
      Posts
      2,026
      Vehicles
      '14 Outback 6spd MT, '95 BMW 318ti M50 swapped
      04-02-2007 02:03 AM #99
      my car didnt have that piece but see what is on your car first. as long as you have the gromet and rubber isolator you should be fine. details of what my car looked like are on or around page 4. It was a blank hole and I added the necessary bits to make it work.


    30. Banned moder13's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 16th, 2005
      Posts
      6,163
      04-05-2007 05:19 PM #101
      so that piece that came through the hole isnt needed. the rubber piece fits right on.

    31. 04-06-2007 10:40 PM #102
      can any of you help me? Im in the middle of swapping the 02a in my 96 2.0. cant find the proper starter have tried four differnt ones. what makes, models, years should i be using?

    32. Member
      Join Date
      Mar 12th, 2003
      Location
      Westchester County, NY
      Posts
      2,026
      Vehicles
      '14 Outback 6spd MT, '95 BMW 318ti M50 swapped
      04-06-2007 11:33 PM #103
      Quote, originally posted by Gti--Nofx »
      can any of you help me? Im in the middle of swapping the 02a in my 96 2.0. cant find the proper starter have tried four differnt ones. what makes, models, years should i be using?

      what problem are you having?

    33. 04-06-2007 11:50 PM #104
      bolt holes dont line up. like mounting bracket is different.

    34. 04-07-2007 08:54 AM #105
      When the bolts are removed, the engine sags. One of the bolts actually runs through the motor mount. Have you tried lifting the engine? Block of wood under the oil pan and then slowly lift while checking the alignment of the holes. Only other solution I can think of is use the motor mount from the vehicle the starter came from.
      Andrew I Johnson May 25, 1985 - September 30, 2011
      Permanently banned from MVWS. And CGW says I don’t play well with others.
      Auto to manual transmittion swap. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...l-Swap-FAQ-DIYhttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=cyclopath

    Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •