020 Manual Swap FAQ/DIY

[ayton]

Quote, originally posted by Cyclopath »

When the bolts are removed, the engine sags. One of the bolts actually runs through the motor mount. Have you tried lifting the engine? Block of wood under the oil pan and then slowly lift while checking the alignment of the holes. Only other solution I can think of is use the motor mount from the vehicle the starter came from.

[moder13]

ok what kind of tool do we use to remove the bolts holding the driveaxle together?

[ayton]

its called a 12 point triple square (8mm) your local autozone should sell a pack of 3 for like $8 bucks (3 different sizes in the pack) 8mm being the one you need

stick it in a socket 13mm or a 1/2 socket on a ratchet and crank away

[moder13]

thanks so much\ ayton

[f.n.low]

is it required to replace the front motor mount??

[ayton]

Quote, originally posted by f.n.low »

is it required to replace the front motor mount??

only if its bad

[f.n.low]

sorry another question. Can I use the shifter box assembly and the rod that goes from shifter to linkage from a mk2 to fit my mk3 and mk3 manual transmission and linkage? or will that need to be mk3 specific

[vwnut18t]

shifter linkage I believe has to be mkIII. Thats what I used anyway.....

[ayton]

having had both boxes "next" to each other...the MK3 box mounts differently and I believe the relay haft has a slightly different bend to it. BUT everything else is interchangeable, the rods, bushings etc.

[f.n.low]

so here's a question... On my 2.0 on the head there's the coolant flange... it's got a sensor in it.. how do i go around that??

[f.n.low]

should i just try and plug the outlet on the back and keep using this coolant flange??

[SimonH]

You can plug the outlet with the relevant stopper and o-ring (cheap dealer item). The correct outlet flange is pretty cheap - maybe $12.

[ayton]

buy a manual specific coolant flange...it's like $10-12 as stated above

[f.n.low]

Does anyone know if you have to disconnect the tranny computer in an obd 1 car??

[f.n.low]

Also does anyone know how to take the shaft for the brake pedal out??? I undid the clip and took off the plastic near the fuse pannel... am i missing something???


Modified by f.n.low at 2:33 PM 4-25-2007

[moder13]

take clip out on right and slide left.

[moder13]

yeah i looked and saw that diagram in my bentley but i dont have that tab apparently on my donor. weird.

[vwman099]

Quote, originally posted by moder13 »

yeah i looked and saw that diagram in my bentley but i dont have that tab apparently on my donor. weird.

Sorry, I should correct myself.... The tab (triangular piece) isn't fastened to the firewall. It literally just sits in there and stays fastened from the pressure of the spring.

I used a piece of gum to hold it in place while I put the spring in.

Your donor should definitely have it, the tab might have just fallen off when you took the spring assembly out.

[Jg022]

this piece.

[vwman099]

beat me to it.

Here's the P/N and diagram if you need to go buy it.

[vwman099]

Quote, originally posted by Jg022 »

i never had #15?

15 looks like the clip for the pedal shaft. I think my auto only had 1 and I had to get another clip because I forgot to get it with the swap.

I'll confess that I never put the second clip on, but it is on my list of things to do.

Quote, originally posted by Jg022 »

vwman - what program is that that shows you everything - i've always wondered. And also where could you get all those parts apart from the vw dealer in person? (Back to swap topic)

Program is ETKA, it's what the dealer uses for VW/Audi. There are various file-sharing methods for where you can get it. But the Tex doesn't allow this to be discussed.

Aside from the dealership, you can order directly from
http://www.worldimpex.com (input the P/N in the search box)
http://www.1stvwparts.com (go to the part lookup)

Only problem is that your going to get raped for shipping. This is probably a 1 or 2 dollar piece.


Modified by vwman099 at 10:07 PM 5-3-2007

[moder13]

Quote, originally posted by moder13 »

and second is how the heck do i wire this thing?! hha.

[vwman099]

Quote, originally posted by Fuzzlet »

Where is a place to order the stamped metal plate? I bent mine a bit so I want to get a new one.

I don't have the P/N for it handy, but you can order it from http://www.worldimpex.com

as well as http://www.1stvwparts.com

You might want to check the price from the dealer as well. I think I priced them out to be around 35 dollars?

[ayton]

did you check to make sure the ECU is working properly?

[stevegotanewone]

Trans swap is DONE! Today i wired up the reverse lights. I had a little bit of trouble finding the yellow/white pair, so i just spliced in at the TCM connector. I ran two wires up to the 150 relay for the switch, and tied them into the two yellow backup light wires- works perfectly! ...now for some driving...

[moder13]

did your inner tails work after the swap? i havent wired the reverse lights yet. butttt ive been driving my car around for a week now and i love it!

[midwestjetta]

so the trans is an 020, will everything from an 85 golf transfer over?

[ayton]

you have to get a3 manual axles and mk3 clutch pedal and mk3 shifter box

[JDM Hatch]

MK2 axles are 1/2" shorter than MK3 axles so they wont work, and the MK2 shift box is slightly different than the MK3 shift box. You cannot use your auto axles either they have a different flange on the ends.

[Roosky]

Quote, originally posted by Yo_Delprad »

im about to pick up my donor car and was wondering about the vss i know there is one on the auto tranny but waht about the manual? how can you tell how fast you are going without it?and the auto cluster will work with the manual tranny like the tachometer and speedo?

Idk about about 2.0l engines and their trannys, but when i did my swap (vr6), i kept my auto cluster and everything works just fine, and both vr auto and manual trannys share the same VSS, not sure about 2.0 though

[TampaLinc]

I wish I could say the swap in my 96 Cabrio was going easy.
I can't get the clutch cable hooked up and when I try to start it I am only getting a "click".

[Skot53]

Quote, originally posted by TampaLinc »

I am at a loss with the starting problem.

Double check all of the fuse box wires... when I was in there messing with all of the clutch things, I accidentally loosened one of the thick red ignition wires, and that caused it to not turn over... Could be the source of your problem...

Quote, originally posted by CanadianCabby »

just wondering if there was an easier way to line them up...

Another idea...

...Use a widowmaker to shift the engine into the proper position... just not too far, though or you'll crack a motor mount

[TampaLinc]

I checked all the connections at the fuse box and they look fine. I had a mechanic take a look at it and he said the engine and flywheel turn fine by hand, and the starter is contacting the flywheel.
Am I missing something simple?

[Cyclopath]

Set the emergency brake. Put the vehicle in neutral. Turn the ignition to the ON position. Then short the large and small post on the starter. Make sure to keep your hair and clothing away from moving parts. If the starter is good, the engine will turn and hopefully start. Then you can work backwards from there.

[TampaLinc]

I checked for codes and I am only getting a couple of Airbag Codes.
00588 - Airbag Igniter; Driver Side (N95)
32-10 - Resistance too High - Intermittent
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

By connect the two terminals of the starter, do you mean run a wire from the power plug to the ground?

I did find one big red wire under the dash that is not plugged in. It says AMP 1-929603 -1 on one side and has a 1 in a box and 191972751 on the other side. It this suppose to be plugged in someplace?