If the blocks are identical, than it should be simple matter if swapping over the bits off your blown motor on to the new one.
I have a chance to pick up an AHA V6 in amazing condition and with low km's on it for a good price. Ive spent a good chunk of time searching for the answer with no luck. As far as I know, the AHA is cable throttle and the ATQ is drive by wire.
If I am doing a direct engine swap from an ATQ to an AHA (both engines equipped with a MT) what would I also have to swap as well as any other problems that I may encounter? Thanks!
ENGINE FOUND - thanks for all the input. Other than the electric/cable throttle body there were a couple little things here and there that were changed in the engine models. Basically it CAN be done but its not worth it IMO.
i think it is a piece of cake, i say go for it if you have the heated room to work in through the day. specialty tools? i don't think so, when i have to make some i just cut my wrenches for a shorter fit, like the side engine mounts, i had to cut a 13 wrench to make it turn the top bolt of the mount. but it is a v6 i think you will need an engine hoist for sure. however i'd do it without the hoist either( not the first time). and as for electronics, you just reuse all of the old stuff of the atq. if the emissions are different cap and plumb where u have to.
So far, i am in the middle of removing the blown engine. it is in an auto matic car.
the things i have done is
timing kit & rear main seal, Transmission filter, and new tranny oil.
you will need a long t50 for the head studs (if you cannot turn over the engine you should need to clear the blockage)
furthermore this is german so lots of torqs. t25, t30, t40, t45
and lots of allen sockets too 5mm, 6mm, 7mm, 8mm
you will need a 10, 13, 15, 16, 17, 24, 27 wrenches and sockets.
both 1/4 insh and 3/8" will be your friend. there are alot of bolts with exact torq.
Exact torq AND locktite. so when you re insert these screws you may benefit from washing them, soak in sea foam, then when it is time to reuse them wash with brake cleaner, apply locktite, and torq.
YOU DO NOT WANT SOME RANDOM SCREW TO COME LOOSE IN THIS MAZE!!!
bring a camera. and take some pictures. have alot of screw storage and a way to label.
back to tools. you do not need to remove the heat sheilds or axels from the transmission in order to pull the studs off the down pipe. however you will need a good droplight A 3/8" WOBBLE EXTENTION and another excessively long extension. i had a 2 foot pipe on a breaker bar damn near outside the car removing those lower bolts.
you will need to remove the compressor (3 bolts two in front one in back in the middle)
you will need to remove the alternator the starter is behind the the alternator. the top bolt on the starter faces rearward, the bottom bolt faces forward. behind the starter is the flywheel. it is here where you UNBOLT THE TORQ CONVERTER.
other points of interest... you will be removing alot of parts! have masking tape to cover holes which lead into the engine (good engine) test your PCV valves and soak them in sea foam. this car with a blown engine. maybe it's been sitting a while? put enzimes (addatives) in the fuel to eat up any varnish...
when removing the front clip draw circles around the screw holes. when you have the nessisary screws removed there are two plastic clips holding the front end on. you can compress these clips with a pair of needle nosed pliers at their base. (as opposed to the tip) . do not be intimidated by the front clip it is alot easier to take off than it looks. but you will need LOTS of storage space.
Make sure to spend some good quality time with the shop vac especially underneath the battery tray. if you can remove the wheel well covers and vaccume out a bunch of dirt from inside the fender.
TAKE PICTURES!!! then SEND ME SOME!!! Roof.email@example.com
if you have any questions 360-720-8800
This is an awesom AUDI instructional video
Ok so who knows the most about this? Anyone finish it? I have a ATQ that they swapped an AHA into , both drive by wire, one has the red 2 pintle injectors one has 4 pintle, and oil sensor one doesn't, and the aha would have had a blade type ECM, where as the ATQ has a pin type... So far I know of two of these that are throwing codes for cam sensor bank 1
I replaced it three times, dble checked wires, checked harness, checked injectors, and no cam sensor at all
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