FINALLY got her up and running and drove her!!
Damn you CIS!
tried to trouble shoot a fuel issue.
so i had a bad fuel pump, had to replace that. i did, and the surrounding hoses. i get it all hooked back up and go to start the car, assuming it will start fine, and the fuel pump's not making any noise. had someone else turn the key while i listened for it to engage and push, and it's not.
the wiring appears to be correct, i can't figure out any way around it.
I picked mine up from an eBay seller for $268 (yes, I took that risk. But, the seller has favorable feedback.)
I love it. It blends well with the car (it's plain! and black! the display and key illumination can be green!), it's very easy to operate despite the lack of buttons (it's very menu-driven), and it sounds fantastic, even at factory settings.
Going to take me a while to really get it dialed in, though - but, out-of-the-box, it's really, really nice.
"SO $1000 PLUS FOR 5 HOURS WORTH OF WORK....IN A MK1 OR MK2 YOU CAN HAVE THE ENGINE OUT AND APART IN 4 HOURS IF YOU'RE DRINKING BEER AND SMOKING POT AND CHASING THE WRENCH FOX AROUND THE GARAGE."uncle halWenn kein scirocco es ist nicht ScheiÃŸe!
Had a nasty fender rub on the front passenger well when going around corners. Fixed that today. Also got my speedometer working and bypassed that silly O2 sensor box. Thankfully I kept my spare speedometer cable from my old parts car when I moved.
Also sourced some MK4 rear disc callipers! That reminds me, I've never had the brakes bled the entire time I've owned this car.
2002 Passat wagon GLS for sale
On the hoist at 5:30pm, and (mostly) torn down for, basically, a major maintenance job:
Timing belt, front oil seals, valve cover gasket, engine mounts, oil-cooler seal (and a few coolant hoses, a thermostat, and a coolant tank), and injector o-rings. Finally!
Hit a snag at just after 8pm:
Grab one of the shop's three engine support bars. Go looking for another - I need a second hook! Find another on a car. Find the third; it's missing its hook. and
If not for that, the engine mounts would have been out tonight.
And, when I was dismantling Wilda's engine, I found out what that wierd chirping noise was (or, maybe it was the supercharger-esque whine at speed):
The inner timing cover was hitting the intermediate-shaft gear.
Question to all (it's been a long time since I've done a timing belt on a VW):
What's supposed to secure the bottom end of the inner cover to the engine?
Put my baby up for sell. Sorry. Peter pan had to grow up.
But my very last rights performed will be a belt change. Figure Id freshen up for the next person that will be blessed with her.
Removed the cams and tried to clean up my 16v head I had laying around. I ended up taking it to the machine shop. they cleaned it than pressure tested it. two exhaust and one intake valve leaking he recomend we take the valves out to surface the head clean the valves and install new vlave guide seals. so my free head is now a $100+ head I hope my free ABA block is better shape. The plan is an N/A ABA 1.8 16v hydbrid running megasquirt. Still need to clean the block find and install the proper pistons intermediat shaft pulley and crank pulley, head gasket and timing belt. Shoot I could have found a complete 9A for this kind of money
- Engine mounts replaced.
- Front oil seals replaced.
- Valve cover cleaned and repainted (the paint started chipping off when I was blowing it dry.)
- Injector o-rings replaced. I wanted to do the o-rings on the injector holders; but, those don't want to come out of the intake - very concerned that removal will wipe the threads out.
- Timing belt installed. Go to put the lower timing cover back on; find that the lower timing cover won't clear the body. WTF? Off to Google (because there's no picture of this in my Bentley); find Timob's writeup from back in the day. I had pressed the mount in upside-down.
Two hours to pull the mount, come up with a tool setup to safely press the mount out (I had removed the old one w/ Sawzall & air hammer), fix the f-up, reinstall the mount, re-settle the motor & torque the mounts, and put the belt back on.
- Pulled oil cooler, got the hoses that I'm replacing out.
Car still on hoist.
I changed my rear motor mount today, replaced the (already broken) one from GAP that I put on 2 years ago with the Techtonics HD mount I bought 2 years ago, but hadn't shown up in time then.
I also fixed my passenger door latch (it was worn out and the inside handle linkage came off) and installed the lock cylinder on the hatch.
Nil Satis Nisi Optimum
got the car started for the first time since november, drove it to get some air in the tires and a quick wash to take off the 5 months worth of grime off the windows.
R 1 3 5
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88 Scirocco 2.0L 16V 2002 337 GTI 2007 B6 Passat Wagon 3.6 4-Motion
I replaced th4e stock clutch with the Sachs Super.
I took a few hourts, but then I've done this s few times in the past 2 weeks.
The pressure plate seems very light on the foot which seems strnage if iit has increased pressure.
Took it for a test drive and something went "CLICK" and the pedal dropped to the floor. On the way home, found that the clutch disengaged if the pedal was really low. No metal grinding (thinking of the clip on the TOB finger...)
I re-adjusted the cable and I can engage & disengage the clutch.
Every step of the assembly has run through my mind trying to work out what has happened.