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    Thread: I took apart the charcoal canister, put new charcoal in, and reassembled (pics)

    1. Member
      Join Date
      Jan 30th, 2009
      Location
      Puyallup, WA
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      167
      Vehicles
      1991 Cab EA
      03-14-2009 03:32 PM #1
      If you have seen some of my other posts, I have had gas fumes by the driver fender. After much reading, it seems that part of the problem might be the charcoal canister is just "kaput".
      So, I thought I would try to refill it. Here is my little experiment. Cost about $15.00. Got it done on a Saturday morning.
      Tools: Couple screwdrivers, hacksaw, punch, charcoal from the pet store ($12.00), 3" rubber cap from Home Depot plumbing department ($3.00).
      Here are the parts and pieces exploded:

      Here is the canister with the bottom cut off, and the cap I used to reassemble and hold the bottom in place.

      Trial fit...

      Here is what the charcoal looks like...

      Here is the bottom after cutting it off the canister with a hack saw...

      Had to remove the outer edge...

      Punched a hole in the bottom of the new rubber cap.

      Ready to put the bottom parts back together...

      Here is the original bottom inserted into the new rubber cap.

      Here is the breather horn re-attached.

      View of assembly from the inside (and the punch I used).

      Re-assembly...

      Fully assembled...

      And back in place.

      Hopefully this takes care of the noxious fumes!

    2. 03-14-2009 07:44 PM #2
      Good luck with that. I hope you found a low $ solution.

    3. Member briano1234's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 20th, 2004
      Location
      Atlanta Ga
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      18,385
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      90, 92, 93 Cabriolet They own you.
      03-14-2009 10:10 PM #3
      Well at least his Goldfish will
      Nice DIY replacement.
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
      Divorces, Great Coffee, and Electrics, all start with GOOD Grounds.

      Another Useless Ground Thread
      HAVE YOU CHECKED THE FAQ's ABOVE..PAGE 3 Thread 75? Why bother no one else does.
      You can lead a user to a link, but you can't make them click.

    4. Member
      Join Date
      Jan 30th, 2009
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      Puyallup, WA
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      1991 Cab EA
      03-14-2009 10:24 PM #4
      Thanks. I thought fifteen bucks was a reasonable risk over buying a brand new one.

    5. Semi-n00b Rikso21's Avatar
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      Apr 19th, 2009
      Location
      Central Jersey
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      2004 VW GTI 1.8 Turbo
      07-14-2009 01:56 PM #5
      How is your charcoal canister holding up?

    6. Member
      Join Date
      Jan 30th, 2009
      Location
      Puyallup, WA
      Posts
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      1991 Cab EA
      01-08-2010 06:45 PM #6
      Sorry for the delayed response...it's holding up great!

    7. n00b
      Join Date
      Feb 1st, 2007
      Location
      Folsom ,CA
      Posts
      5
      Vehicles
      1984 Mk1 Westmorland GTI
      06-08-2016 04:43 PM #7
      Thanks to this thread, I refreshed 2 canisters, but dismantled the cap is a different manner. I inserted a properly sized numerical drill bit in the small center inlet port barb added a rubber vacuum cap over that, and chucked it into my tabletop Drill press. Then supported the bottom outlet port in the Cap with a closely sized 1/2 drive socket, well lubed and clamped in a press vise. Then at the slowest speed possible, I held a hacksaw (32 teeth or finer) to the seam. This allowed the glued portion to be minimalized and then a quick use of a sharp hook or Xacto knife would save most of the lip on the canister body & cap. (remove from the drill jig or else!) A couple of quick pops equidistant with a straight blade and the unit will be apart on your bench. These are assembled very sloppy at the OEM supplier so don't expect perfect separation or seam match unless you clean up the two pieces. Clean up the two filters (Top and Bottom ) with TB cleaner or Brake clean. ( check Siphon tube(s) and clean) After I prepped these two, I still had a brand new Porsche 924 unit as a spare so I was careful to research this fix, and use a similar activated carbon to that which came out of the units (Fluvol 300) The Rubber cap works a bit better if you have a reduced, (but not totally removed) lip on both pieces and add RTV to the seam on assembly. I wonder how this Sewer cap rubber will hold up to Ethanol exposure and if my other possibility ( "using 3 inch Female threaded adapter glued to the canister body with a strong cement with a 3"inch threaded cap for the bottom piece" ) will be a quicker cleaner repair. This is just me and my manic attempt to keep this GTI looking clean and functioning with a incompatible E10 fuel system.
      My next act may include dual Evap canisters and Dual Purge valves to avoid tuning degradation of canister saturation as I'm not sure of the service life of these contents as repaired, with E10 California RFG and the consequences of Tier 3 fuels in the pipeline.
      Any comments will be screened for political correctness, and given appropriate consideration

      Clazic, and Ready to drive.... Fore!

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