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    Thread: Re-volting idea for regulators.

    1. Member Moljinar's Avatar
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      03-23-2009 08:45 PM #1
      Right after the annoying drip on your leg from a leaky top the number 2 most annoying thing about cabbys is the ridiculous electrical charging system. Coupled with a voltmeter that you learn to ignore you're left wondering if your battery is ever charged properly. And since you have a Bosch alternator the answer is, probably not.
      A 12volt lead-acid battery needs at least 13.6 volts to charge properly. Your charging system is giving it that and probably no more if you add in the usual voltage losses from bad connections and grounds. If your car was a Ford you'd have a charging system putting out 14-14.5 volts so you'd have some headroom.
      So let's pump up the volume shall we?
      Remove your regulator (easy, only two screws) . Now examine it and see the one lead that goes under the mounting /grounding screws. Break it off. Now take a diode and place as shown. Solder it to the terminal after scraping/filing the metal clean.
      What we are doing is adding a voltage reference for the regulator that is .5 volts different than before. So our 14 volt regulator is now a 14.5 volt regulator. And if you clean up all your grounds you'll get every drop of that. It's really neat watching your voltmeter swing over into what used to be virgin territory on the dial.
      I've seen this documented elsewhere on the vortex but thought it was about time we talked about it here.



      Make sure your diodes are at least of this level 200v / 3A .

    2. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      03-23-2009 08:50 PM #2
      I don't have the drippy knee syndrome on either of my cabbies....... so sorry that yours sucks.
      Well since I relayed the headlights I am showing 13.5 on the gauge.
      But hey what a capital idea....... So I should then be getting 15volts?
      AWEsome......
      Now where is the lars rocket upgrade for pokey drivers.


      Modified by briano1234 at 8:55 PM 3-23-2009

    3. Member dandydanny's Avatar
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      03-24-2009 04:37 AM #3
      Hey awesome! I've seen this modification before and always wanted to try it, but I didn't have the beefier diode on hand. My 1N4004's will probably not hold up for very long.


      Modified by dandydanny at 1:40 AM 3-24-2009

    4. Member Moljinar's Avatar
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      03-24-2009 07:49 AM #4
      The standard Bosch regulator is rated at 14 volts. Due to bad grounds, lousy connections etc you'll rarely if ever see that much. This mod will give you .5 volts above the 14 so you can get back to a healthy charging range.
      The nice perk of this mod is your accessories also have an extra volt to play with which means your lighting will be brighter.

    5. Member deer_eggs's Avatar
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      03-24-2009 08:34 AM #5
      Wow, that's actually a pretty good idea! I've never heard of it before, but may have to give it a try. Thanks!
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    6. 03-24-2009 08:39 AM #6
      Seriously I needed an excuse to work on it today anyway, this is a great idea.

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      03-25-2009 07:29 AM #7
      Not a bad idea and not an expensive mod, either. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      My flying/aerial/scenic/transportation-related photography: http://www.flickr.com/photos/vfr_photography/
      Cabriolet photography from years past: http://s82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...usa/?start=all

    8. Member Moljinar's Avatar
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      03-27-2009 10:10 AM #8
      Quote, originally posted by briano1234 »
      I don't have the drippy knee syndrome on either of my cabbies....... so sorry that yours sucks.

      Actually I am wet-knee free these days. Even though my top is only partially installed it's already water -tight . The window seal bracket was the leak. Scraping off the old foam under the seal holder allowed the new top and holder to lay flat and finally seal out the water.

    9. Member iDubber.com's Avatar
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      04-01-2009 12:58 PM #9
      Quote, originally posted by briano1234 »
      I don't have the drippy knee syndrome on either of my cabbies....... so sorry that yours sucks.
      Well since I relayed the headlights I am showing 13.5 on the gauge.
      But hey what a capital idea....... So I should then be getting 15volts?
      AWEsome......
      Now where is the lars rocket upgrade for pokey drivers.

      Modified by briano1234 at 8:55 PM 3-23-2009

      i wish i could just get mine to work


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    10. Member noizze's Avatar
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      04-01-2009 03:39 PM #10
      http://www.davebarton.com/AdjustableVoltage.html
      I use the adjustable regulator on my Cabby and the external on my Corrado. Voltages stay dead stable and I no longer have charging problems. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    11. Member dandydanny's Avatar
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      04-27-2009 05:08 AM #11
      I'm not having any charging issues; battery cables were one of the first items replaced on this car, but sometimes starter motor seemed a bit lazy in the mornings.
      I finally performed the modification and here are the results:
      My hackjob modifying the voltage regulator. The diode is a 1N5007 (3A, 800V) made by General Semiconductor, available at Radio Shack. Curiously, Radio Shack sold it as a 3A 400PIV diode:

      Voltage at battery, engine running, before voltage regulator modification (13.95V):

      Voltage at battery, engine running, after voltage regulator modification (14.72V):

      0.77V gain, which is about consistent with 0.7V voltage drop of normal silicon diodes.

    12. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      04-27-2009 05:43 AM #12
      but sometimes starter motor seemed a bit lazy in the mornings.
      That could be a loose starter bolt or corrosion preventing the starter from getting a good ground, but to prevent that from happening, and reducing the current load off the ignition switch ( which by the way is really good to do any ways).
      Install the Heat soak relay fix for automatics, works for manual starters too, and then follow that up by relaying the headlight switch and you have just eliminated the hi-current loads off your ignition switch.

    13. Member dandydanny's Avatar
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      04-27-2009 06:05 AM #13
      Quote, originally posted by briano1234 »
      ... then follow that up by relaying the headlight switch and you have just eliminated the hi-current loads off your ignition switch.

      You mean, the headlight current have to travel through that puny headlight switch and the puny ignition switch? No wonder they're so dim. I'm not busting out my Bentley service manual because it's 3AM, but you know I totally believe you.
      Eventually I'd like have a separate, fused circuit branch off the battery's positive terminal that feeds the headlight relay and the starter relay, with the relay coils connected to the original high-resistance current path to the switches. I may run my audio amplifier through this branch as well. Sounds like I may need a fused power distribution block.

    14. Member tolusina's Avatar
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      04-27-2009 11:02 AM #14
      Relay the console gauges while you're re laying circuits, eh?
      Quote Originally Posted by kamzcab86
      I hate reading: "But I bought this car for $500 and don't want to put another dime into it."
      ____(hey, it's VW AND it's electrical, what's not to fail?) neoBentley+



    15. Member dandydanny's Avatar
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      04-28-2009 04:24 AM #15
      Quote, originally posted by tolusina »
      Relay the console gauges while you're re laying circuits, eh?

      A relay just for the console gauges? What kind of benefit will that yield?
      So I paid some attention to the (highly inaccurate) VDO voltage gauge today. The needle swings to just shy of 14V.
      One thing I've noticed is that I needed to blip the throttle to extinguish the alternator charging warning light at start up. Before the warning light would just turn off after the engine started.

    16. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      04-28-2009 04:58 AM #16
      Quote, originally posted by dandydanny »
      One thing I've noticed is that I needed to blip the throttle to extinguish the alternator charging warning light at start up. Before the warning light would just turn off after the engine started.

      You have to raise the RPM above 900 so there is a under speed kind of thing going on.. it is normal.

    17. Junior Member nyc.cabby's Avatar
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      08-09-2010 02:14 AM #17
      does polarity matter with these?
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    18. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      08-09-2010 02:46 AM #18
      Quote Originally Posted by nyc.cabby View Post
      does polarity matter with these?
      Yes, in electronics polarity matters. For Diodes the Rule of thumb is that the Arrow always point to the negative.

      If you look at Orans Picture, the diode's anode or negative side (noted by the Band of silver on the end) is attaching to the Mounting bolt for the regulator (which is Ground). The Side that is not on the band is soldered to the more Positive brush contact......

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      08-09-2010 08:57 AM #19
      Dam nice post guys !!! I was just looking for something else to fix on mine today....as if I don't have enough now !!!! Lol

    20. Junior Member nyc.cabby's Avatar
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      08-09-2010 07:45 PM #20
      So i did this today with 3amp 400 piv diode and at idle i was charging at 14 and when i revved it was pegging at 16V, is this overkill? I dont want to drive around and kill my electrical system
      1990 Cabriolet

    21. Member jason92300's Avatar
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      08-10-2010 11:55 AM #21
      So i did this today with 3amp 400 piv diode and at idle i was charging at 14 and when i revved it was pegging at 16V, is this overkill? I dont want to drive around and kill my electrical system
      YES, very much overkill. So is the guy above that was putting out 13.9 and and now 14.7. Anything over 14.1 is usless and asking for trouble.

      Guys, this is a great mod, in fact i'm using the adjustable in my Corrado now and have it set to 14.1. However, if your already putting out close to that voltage than this is a waste of time. If your putting out 13.1 to 13.4 then i'd say go for it. Remember though to check it with the throttle raised and make sure your safe. Anyone leaveing their alternators pumping out 16v with the throttle up a bit, i'll give it a week and your battery will start to smell of rotten eggs. Then you've got dangerous problems on your hands.
      Last edited by jason92300; 08-10-2010 at 12:21 PM.

    22. Junior Member nyc.cabby's Avatar
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      08-10-2010 12:38 PM #22
      Yeah i decided to have someone else rev the engine and check the battery at the terminals.

      I didn't actually bother to get a reading because i shut the car off since the battery had small bubbles coming out the top cover

      I ended up having to set it back to normal but did clean everything up a bit and am now getting 13.9 at the battery.
      1990 Cabriolet

    23. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      08-10-2010 04:35 PM #23
      Bubbles on the battery is a indication that it is charging.

    24. Junior Member nyc.cabby's Avatar
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      08-10-2010 08:13 PM #24
      Quote Originally Posted by briano1234 View Post
      Bubbles on the battery is a indication that it is charging.
      I had heard this before but wasn't sure if it was true or not, needless to say the small bubbles came after there was some leakage of a clear liquid, this bothered me. Today i noticed some white past like substance over one of the cells...
      1990 Cabriolet

    25. Junior Member onemean6's Avatar
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      12-24-2010 01:09 PM #25
      this worked out great, i just did it and it couldn't have been easier. i was tired of the alt barely charging the battery. i know have 14.8 volts and with everything on its 14 instead of 13.2. no more reving the engine after start up to extinguish the light. thanks for the tip!

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