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    Thread: rebuild kit for 84 1.7 carb rabbit?

    1. Member rich84's Avatar
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      04-02-2009 01:09 PM #1
      i need a rebuild kit for a 1984 vw rabbit 1.7 liter carb. no one can get them. pepboys, napa, autozone, advance, two dealer ships, the friend of some guy at the dealership who lives in california and sells old carbs, etc.

      so i think i know the answer to this already, but does ANYONE know where i can get one? if not im just puttin a side draft and a cam on it and gettin historic plates so im emmisions exempt.


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      04-02-2009 08:10 PM #2
      what model carb??

    3. Member rich84's Avatar
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      04-02-2009 11:11 PM #3
      its a weber single barrel, the little part number tag on it says TYF7627S. under neath that on the same tag it says B 4 8 0. this is odd, since weber part numbers dont normally seem to be set up like this. it also says "made in usa" on it, which im pretty sure webers usually are not. its definitely a weber though its a got a big weber emblem stamped on it and it says weber right under that.

      also, does anyone think i can pass jersey emmissions with a properly jetted solex addhe side draft? i have one w/ manifold, but i was gonna kinda wait and throw that on along with a cam/header/msd/etc...

      my problem is that the stock carb probably has an internal leak, which causes it to run a touch rich, intermittently, under acceleration. this is causing me to fail emissions. its like just enough that if i lean it out my NOX is too high, but if i dont im too rich, just barely. it COULD be something else, but i doubt it, everything is pretty tip top. new cat, plugs, wires, timing, etc. i've checked it all like 20 times at this point to be sure.

      if anyone knows how gnarly the gaskets are in there, id even be willing to try to make new ones from blank gasket paper so long as they dont have like super ridculously complex patterns and stuff. i just dont wanna pull it apart and be f**ked.my guess is that maybe some gas is getting through an o ring for the jet or somehting, nut im not sure quite how its set up. im pretty good with carbs, but i never messed with this one.


    4. 04-02-2009 11:16 PM #4
      The only place I ever see them is as NOS coming up on ebay or the samba, and that's very rarely.

      What problem are you having? Cutting out? Intermittant operation?

      Replace the two fuel hoses at the gas tank off the sender before you touch the carb. You are probably getting air sucked into the line and having pressure dropouts and vapor lock.



      Modified by chickenfriend at 11:18 PM 4-2-2009


    5. 04-02-2009 11:28 PM #5
      Ok. You squeezed that post in before me. Would be a good idea to check the hoses, anyway.


      If that is a stock carb, you would have an O2 sensor, so you might want to check that. It works in conjunction with a frequency valve on the carb to fine tune the air/fuel ratio.

      It is ridiculous that you have to pass emissions for a car that old, especially when it is a model of fuel efficiency (less carbon footprint).


      Modified by chickenfriend at 11:32 PM 4-2-2009


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      04-03-2009 09:01 AM #6
      try http://www.piercemanifolds.com for info or parts on your carb

    7. Member rich84's Avatar
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      04-03-2009 09:48 AM #7
      that website^ is pretty good but no dice. thanx though.

      02 sensor is brand new. replaced it like a week ago. is there any way to test this frequency valve to see if THAT is working? is that the little cylindrical thing on the front of the carb with one wire coming out the back? the wire for the o2 just kind of disappears into a loom and then i dunno what happens to it. im admittedly not very good with wiring...probably why i like carbs





      Modified by rich84 at 6:52 AM 4-3-2009


    8. 04-03-2009 10:40 AM #8
      You won't find any information on that carb in the Bentley manual.

      However, Vw did issue a booklet on it.

      You should hear the frequency valve clicking when you turn you ignition switch to on. I think you can test it just like the CIS system. It is on the carburetor. It is just a solenoid that goes back and forth at various speeds to micro-regulate the air fuel mixture.


      Modified by chickenfriend at 12:14 PM 4-3-2009


    9. Member rich84's Avatar
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      04-03-2009 11:25 AM #9
      oh S**T!!! i always wondered what that clicking sound was! yea the carb in the bentley is like completely different. thanx man. i guess ill look into that next.

    10. Member rich84's Avatar
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      04-07-2009 12:51 PM #10
      ok. the frequency valve is ok. however, there is another solenoid that seams to be working in junction with the frquency valve. it looks like the frequency valve only its a little smaller and its got a vacuum hose sticking out of it. its right on the front of the carb like an inch or two away from the frequency valve solenoid. the wire (just one wire) going into the back of this is busted off, and i have absolutely no idea where it is supposed to go. the bentley doesnt have any info on this either. when i took this one off, its got a little plunger on a spring and it seems like it would maybe add air for the O2 sensor readings but i dont know. does anyone know what this does, or where this wire goes?

    11. 04-07-2009 01:32 PM #11
      I think that would be the bowl vent, which is part of the EEC system. You should see a plastic line coming off of it that eventually leads to the charcoal canister inside the driver's fenderwell.

      The plunger thing is the fuel shut-off solenoid. It allows the throttle plates to be set at a good idle rpm, like 900 rpm. The idle speed screw actually adjusts against the solenoid plunger tip. When the car is shut down, the solenoid retracts and the throttle plate closes all the way to prevent "dieseling" or "run-on", a common problem with downdraft carbs. VW took an interesting approach to an old problem.




      Modified by chickenfriend at 1:34 PM 4-7-2009


    12. Member rich84's Avatar
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      04-07-2009 03:34 PM #12
      Quote, originally posted by chickenfriend »
      I think that would be the bowl vent, which is part of the EEC system. You should see a plastic line coming off of it that eventually leads to the charcoal canister inside the driver's fenderwell.

      The plunger thing is the fuel shut-off solenoid. It allows the throttle plates to be set at a good idle rpm, like 900 rpm. The idle speed screw actually adjusts against the solenoid plunger tip. When the car is shut down, the solenoid retracts and the throttle plate closes all the way to prevent "dieseling" or "run-on", a common problem with downdraft carbs. VW took an interesting approach to an old problem.


      Modified by chickenfriend at 1:34 PM 4-7-2009

      yea that sounds like it. which i guess means that its probably not the cause of my emissions problem. hmmm. thanks.

      i guess, while im fixing stuff, any idea where the wire goes anyway????


      Modified by rich84 at 1:29 PM 4-7-2009


    13. 04-07-2009 06:33 PM #13
      Might want to check out the following web site for a carb rebuilt kit...

      http://www.carbsonly.com/

      Charlie

      '80 VW Rabbit "C" - 81 VW Pickup - '85 VW Golf - 1987 GTI 16V - 2002 New Beetle - 2012 Toyota Tundra 4x4, 5.7L V8
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    14. Member rich84's Avatar
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      04-08-2009 06:49 PM #14
      Quote, originally posted by charlier »
      Might want to check out the following web site for a carb rebuilt kit...

      http://www.carbsonly.com/

      already checked that site. snake eyes. thanks though.


    15. 04-08-2009 09:43 PM #15
      I wouldn't suggest a rebuild just because it won't pass emissions. I'd look for anything obviously wrong with it, first, which is what I think you are doing now.

      If you plan on keeping the car long-term, you might want to consider either aftermarket sidedrafts like DCOE's, a downdraft/with manifold, like a Cannon/Weber DFEV, or conversion to CIS fuel injection. Any modification is likely to involve a considerable amount of time, depending on your skills.

      A CIS conversion with a CIS-e knock sensor ignition system would give you considerable flexibility in the future, should you want to swap to a high compression 1.8 or 2.0 engine.


      Modified by chickenfriend at 10:16 PM 4-8-2009


    16. Member rich84's Avatar
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      04-09-2009 08:52 AM #16
      Quote, originally posted by chickenfriend »
      I wouldn't suggest a rebuild just because it won't pass emissions. I'd look for anything obviously wrong with it, first, which is what I think you are doing now.

      If you plan on keeping the car long-term, you might want to consider either aftermarket sidedrafts like DCOE's, a downdraft/with manifold, like a Cannon/Weber DFEV, or conversion to CIS fuel injection. Any modification is likely to involve a considerable amount of time, depending on your skills.

      A CIS conversion with a CIS-e knock sensor ignition system would give you considerable flexibility in the future, should you want to swap to a high compression 1.8 or 2.0 engine.


      Modified by chickenfriend at 10:16 PM 4-8-2009

      yea i have a g grind, solex addhe w/manifold, and header laying around. im not really trying to get into all that right now though, i just wanna get a good sticker one last time. this fall im gonna buy a newer car just as a daily and then i plan on doing more stuff to the rabbit. it wouldnt take me too long to switch over all the stuff, i just dont wanna get into all that right now as i have school and work and im trying to get done some mods on my motorcycle before summer is here.

      i took the carb apart and looked for any leaks or anything, i think im gonna be able to to reuse the gaskets except for one maybe which wont be too hard to make. it it gets like two more chances to pass and then i quit and im just gonna put antique tags on it and ride my bike more often till fall.


    17. 04-09-2009 10:58 AM #17
      Then I would suggest trying to find an inspection station that will cut you a little slack on the emissions.

      PS< Your stock cam is a C grind, a good cam, very close to a G grind.


    18. Member OLDSKOOLVWS's Avatar
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      04-09-2009 03:16 PM #18
      Don't know if this is your carb, but here's a kit for one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ories
      2008 Acadia / 2004 Colorado / 1987 4Runner / 1987 E30 325i / 1978 Scirocco CE / 1977 Rabbit / 1970 PL521

    19. Member rich84's Avatar
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      04-09-2009 03:30 PM #19
      nah that ones different. thanks for lookin though

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