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    Thread: Lets see Rattle Can or flat/satin/matte Paint Jobs

    1. Member super_chief's Avatar
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      05-20-2009 01:03 AM #36
      Quote, originally posted by wishihada18t »
      Paint is a Nason single stage satin black. This is the first car ive ever done paint and body work on.

      Reaaally nicely pulled off


    2. Member ZachRabbit's Avatar
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      05-20-2009 03:58 AM #37
      i like the plaid Cabriolet, very nice. a lot of work went into that, looks like.
      cheers
      I HAVE A FEW MK1 AND MK3 PARTS FOR SALE! JUST ASK!
      I also live near a Pic-A-Part, if you need something I can check on anything MK3+

    3. 05-20-2009 12:35 PM #38
      heres my RC paint job.






    4. Member Alfredo_mk3's Avatar
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      05-21-2009 02:32 AM #39
      Quote, originally posted by johnnyGO »
      heres my RC paint job.





      lies!!!


      watching..anymore RC'd mk3's?? my paint is in bad shape...


    5. 05-21-2009 12:15 PM #40
      No joke man, the paint is Ace hardware Premium enamel, color= machinery gray. After letting the paint dry for a few days I clay bared the car.

      If your a person who likes to take the time to do things right then you wont be surprised about a good RC paint job.


    6. Member Alfredo_mk3's Avatar
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      05-21-2009 12:19 PM #41
      Quote, originally posted by johnnyGO »
      No joke man, the paint is Ace hardware Premium enamel, color= machinery gray. After letting the paint dry for a few days I clay bared the car.

      If your a person who likes to take the time to do things right then you wont be surprised about a good RC paint job.


      wow that looks pretty awesome man

      looks pro lol, doesn't even look RC'd..i might have to try this if my car's paint job gets worse...mine has alot of small scratches all over the place..


    7. 05-22-2009 02:56 PM #42

      this was painted a year ago. took me 6 satin black krylon cans

      i don't now if it was rattle can but love this bug!


      Modified by dubboi808 at 10:04 AM 5-22-2009

    8. Member jetta2.8's Avatar
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      05-29-2009 01:31 PM #43
      Hey just wondering do you spray a flat clear on after the paint or is it just flat paint?

    9. Member -SLugO-'s Avatar
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      05-29-2009 03:51 PM #44
      u can do w/e u want, clear, no clear, claybar it smoove, or just leave it rough

      no more camo green


    10. Member koko5869's Avatar
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      05-29-2009 08:54 PM #45
      Quote, originally posted by -SLugO- »
      u can do w/e u want, clear, no clear, claybar it smoove, or just leave it rough

      no more camo green


      noooooooooooooo. a little wetsanding and the green would have been crazzzzy. im kind of partial to the army thing. about to do mine satin khaki i think.
      we'll see what mycarisred talks me in to.

    11. Member MyCarIsRed's Avatar
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      05-30-2009 01:42 AM #46
      Quote, originally posted by koko5869 »

      noooooooooooooo. a little wetsanding and the green would have been crazzzzy. im kind of partial to the army thing. about to do mine satin khaki i think.
      we'll see what mycarisred talks me in to.

      i'm trying to talk you out of flat paints in general haha!!


    12. Member koko5869's Avatar
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      05-30-2009 06:32 AM #47
      Quote, originally posted by MyCarIsRed »

      i'm trying to talk you out of flat paints in general haha!!


      money talks. and there sure as hell aint a lot of yapping over this way. what do you think?

    13. Member MyCarIsRed's Avatar
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      06-01-2009 05:55 PM #48
      Quote, originally posted by koko5869 »

      money talks. and there sure as hell aint a lot of yapping over this way. what do you think?

      in order of most cost effective:

      -stay existing color
      -single stage
      -base/clear

      whether you go flat or not, if you change the color it'll cost the same. the flat is in the clear, not the base. they make flat single stage as well, but from what i've seen it sorta sucks cause you can't sand it out when your done and end up with a lightly textured finish (above example prompted me to do some research).


    14. 06-09-2009 08:25 PM #49
      kinda curious as to what you guys do about the cars registration if you rattle can it a different color. im dying to do my red jetta in some sort of black.

    15. Member MyCarIsRed's Avatar
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      06-09-2009 08:41 PM #50
      Quote, originally posted by juventus321 »
      kinda curious as to what you guys do about the cars registration if you rattle can it a different color. im dying to do my red jetta in some sort of black.

      how original... another flat black jetta...

      regardless, it doesnt affect the registration or insurance.


    16. 06-09-2009 09:01 PM #51
      Quote, originally posted by MyCarIsRed »

      how original... another flat black jetta...

      regardless, it doesnt affect the registration or insurance.

      i was actually thinking of painting the coupe black magic pearl. thanks for the info


    17. Member MyCarIsRed's Avatar
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      06-10-2009 03:35 PM #52
      Quote, originally posted by juventus321 »

      i was actually thinking of painting the coupe black magic pearl. thanks for the info

      in that case, let me know if you need someone to paint it. i have access to a professional paint booth and experience. i can get you a very good price on materials as well


    18. 06-15-2009 10:24 PM #53
      love the MARPAT hood!

      this from WF last year..


    19. 06-16-2009 04:13 PM #54
      Check out the orange Charger a little less than half way down..DONE WITH A ROLLER!!!

      http://board.moparts.org/ubbth...&vc=1


    20. Member koko5869's Avatar
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      06-16-2009 04:21 PM #55
      Quote, originally posted by joebonaparte »
      Check out the orange Charger a little less than half way down..DONE WITH A ROLLER!!!

      http://board.moparts.org/ubbth...&vc=1

      $50 paint job that was posted on here for a while


    21. Member MyCarIsRed's Avatar
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      06-16-2009 09:58 PM #56
      Quote, originally posted by joebonaparte »
      Check out the orange Charger a little less than half way down..DONE WITH A ROLLER!!!

      http://board.moparts.org/ubbth...&vc=1

      let me assure everyone that it's about 100 hours of work. haha! unless you really really really enjoy wetsanding, i'd suggest getting a real paint job done.


    22. Member le-di-snake's Avatar
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      06-17-2009 01:09 PM #57
      Quote, originally posted by -SLugO- »
      oh boy! here ya go


      it was really nice car.


    23. Member baun's Avatar
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      06-17-2009 01:31 PM #58
      mine. ace hardware. BBQ rattle can

      HS TUNINGNUTSWUNGNATIONLOWCALLYFAMOUS
      http://www.hstuning.com
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      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-BUILD-THREAD!
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    24. 06-19-2009 10:07 AM #59
      can u tell me how u pull the fenders like that .. i wanna do it but dont really know how, have body exp, but never done this

      thanks for anything
      -joel


    25. Member -SLugO-'s Avatar
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      06-19-2009 10:33 AM #60
      Quote, originally posted by ginsterpoo »
      can u tell me how u pull the fenders like that .. i wanna do it but dont really know how, have body exp, but never done this

      thanks for anything
      -joel

      here mang, here is my thread on pulled fenders. AND if u have no experience, DONT do it. You'll ruin ur car. u basically beat ur car with a hammer/dollie for 30+ hrs
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4334616


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      06-19-2009 05:09 PM #61

    27. Member baun's Avatar
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      06-20-2009 02:07 AM #62
      Quote, originally posted by -SLugO- »

      here mang, here is my thread on pulled fenders. AND if u have no experience, DONT do it. You'll ruin ur car. u basically beat ur car with a hammer/dollie for 30+ hrs

      same here. not to mention hours of sanding
      end result were worth it though.

      HS TUNINGNUTSWUNGNATIONLOWCALLYFAMOUS
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    28. 06-21-2009 09:19 PM #63
      Quote, originally posted by joebonaparte »
      Check out the orange Charger a little less than half way down..DONE WITH A ROLLER!!!

      http://board.moparts.org/ubbth...&vc=1

      there is a website called http://www.rollyourcar.com I tried a test spot on a hatch I am repainting. this is 1 light coat wet sanded and somewhat polished.

      Its a lot of work tho. I am using a tremclad oil based paint thinned down 50% with mineral spirits and rolled with a 4" foam roller and smoothed down with a foam brush. For sure a good paint job is doable but to tell you the truth I will just go with a satin rattle can finish.


      Modified by Dann0 at 9:20 PM 6-21-2009


      Modified by Dann0 at 9:29 PM 6-21-2009


    29. 06-21-2009 09:51 PM #64
      Quote, originally posted by joebonaparte »
      Check out the orange Charger a little less than half way down..DONE WITH A ROLLER!!!

      http://board.moparts.org/ubbth...&vc=1


      here is a copy and past of the process from the guy who painted that Charger...

      Body prep

      next prep your car as if was any other paint job, fix all the rust, ect....
      no need to prime the car since the tremclad allready contains elements which allow
      it to be painted over bare metal.


      mixing paint

      next u thin the paint with mineral spirits so it just about as thin as water, a little thicker.
      theres no ratio that i could come up with because once you open the can and pour some out the next day the paint will be a bit thicker.
      if i had to guess i would say about 20% thinner or so? just thin enough that it does'nt run,
      but not too thick. keep in mind that you can allways add more paint to the mix if you go too thin.
      and the coats go on really really thin, that is the key, like i said before you don't really have a true non transparent base until the 3rd or 4th coat.


      Painting
      I also load the roller up quite heavily, then work it until the roller does'nt have so much paint in it
      and do the detail work after. once you spread the paint wait a minute or so and then just really gently
      run the roller using only the weight of the roller, on the sides just use very very light pressure as if
      it were the weight of it. How you thin the paint is critical, i have not had one paint run on any of the cars
      i've painted. To give you an idea, you really only start to have full coverage to where u can't see any body work
      or underlying color thru the paint until the 3rd coat
      after u do 2 coats, wet sand the whole car, then repeat, 2 coats, wetsand, 2 coats wetsand
      The trick is in how you thin the paint, get it as thin as possible without running,
      and the paint "self levels" it comes out like glass,
      wet sanding just makes it better,'
      when the paint is thinned your barley putting on any paint with each coat, so you really need to do about
      6 coats to get enough of a base so you can wet sand and polish
      You only cover up the bodywork, underlying color until after the 4th coat, keep in mind that there is wet sanding in between each 2 coats.
      if you get bubbles when your painting your pushing down on the roller too hard, lighten it up a bit,
      let the paint sit for 1 minute after you've spread it out nice, then just run the roller over the area VERY gently using only the weight of the roller,
      then turn around, have a smoke after you've done the pannel, and when your done your smoke, turn around and you'll see it has "self leveled"
      before your eyes


      Painting Hard to get areas

      do the hood, doors, front fenders, and the trunk, that's easy.
      then i do the whole roof and sail pannels in one shot working fast, there's enough time to do it before the paint tacks up if u rush it,
      not the time to have a coffee or smoke. i stopped at the rear quarter just below the sail pannels and top quarter pannel where there is a edge to stop at.
      then continue from there on each side meeting in the back rear valance. the trick there is to not leave and raised paint lines,
      and smooth it out gradually as u approach the point where u stop, then run to the other side and do the other half of the roof and overlap the strokes.
      wetsanding does the rest, but u try to make it as smooth as possible, the paint is very thin on each coat. it's really hard to describe,
      that's where all the expirementing comes in to play.

      Sanding

      do one panel at a time, and don't stop once you start. once your done the final coat,
      wetsand with about 1000 grit to a totally smooth finish, and then using a high speed polisher
      i use a buffing bonnet and turtle wax polishing compound. do the whole car with this, and i'm telling u,
      depending on the amount of time and paitence you have, the results are amazing
      use a spray bottle and keep the paper really wet, finish with a 1000 grit or so and then buff with a random
      orbit polisher using turtle wax POLISHING compound, NOT the rubbing compound, its' to harsh.
      it is critical to use the proper roller, it's about 4" wide and about 1 1/2" thick,
      and really high density white foam. it really works and is much tougher paint than todays single stage or base clear,
      very hard to scratch
      did not block sand the car just wetsand progressivly finer paper by HAND, no machine, no block nothing.
      using any "block" to sand i found the paper got dirty fast and got all plugged up,
      so do it by hand and keep it really wet, using a spray bottle in one hand and a clean bucket of water and a shammy
      (dollar store!!!)to clean it off to see how it looks. i prepped the car with 80, then 100, then 200,
      finished with a 400, did all my body work, and painted. after 2 coats (about 4hrs work for the whole car)
      i wetsanded with a 600, then did 2 more coats, wetsand with 800, 2 more coats and sand with a 1000-1500 and polish,
      followed by wax, done......
      one more pointer, when u wet sand the final coat, the paint looks flat, like velvet,
      if you take a rag soaked with mineral spirits and whipe a spot down that you just sanded,
      that's what it will look like buffed. if you buff and decide to paint again clean the area with
      mineral spirts so that and residue from the polishing compound is removed or the paint won't stick.
      do another coat, try to put it on really light, i hope u prepped the fender a little before you started painting.
      when u wet sand try using a 600-800 grit, and lightly wet sand the fender with light pressure and ALOT of water.
      Spraying it on should maybe work better but its messy, stinky, and a pain. when u first start to wet sand you'll notice
      the paper just kinda glides over the paint and it does'nt really feel like your sanding anything, keep going, soon the water will stop
      beeding off the paint and it will start to turn yellow. after wetsanding it looks like crap, this is where the polishing come in, brings it to glass.
      i haven't tried soap and water, i see no real advantage, i just use straight water and keep the area really wet, using a spray bottle and spray it down alot,
      after wetsanding for a bit i have a bucket of water and a shammy i whipe down the surface with while it's still wet, that way it's much eaiser
      to clean before it dries. and as for the mineral spirits on a wet rag and just whiping it down, yes, that's what it looks like polished, even better,
      just gives you an idea of what it will look like when finished, that's about the first time you really see the results.


      buffing
      polishing compound, not rubbing compound
      the rubbing compound could be used if you really want to, i just found it much better to wetsand with 1000 grit and then go straight to polishing,
      that's what worked for me. the rubbing compound seemed to ball up under the polisher and make a mess and make some scratches when it balled up,
      i used the polishing compound on a regular bonnet on a 10" elecrtic random orbit polisher, it's only after polishing that it looks like glass,
      and i kept it wet with water from a spray bottle on the bonnet, forgot to mention that, but keeping it quite wet worked great.

      like i mentioned before after wetsanding use a random orbit polisher and the cheapest
      POLISHING COMPOUND made by turtle wax, it comes in a paste in a small round flat container and it's white,
      allmost looks like hand cream and smells good too!!!

      Random tips

      as a hint if you try it first you paint the surface, and then really lightly "skim" the surface with the weight of the roller
      only to remove any lines bubbles ect, then just leave it for a minute or two and you'll see it just "self levels"
      totally flat to glass. then wetsand it really fine
      Oh and i strip the car of all chrome, bumpers, rubber, door handles, trim, ect...nothing looks cheaper than a car that's just taped!!!
      have a shelf full of polishing compounds, mothers, mequires, ect....know what works the best?
      the cheapest one!!! turtle wax polishing compound in the white paste, $3,
      polish ANY enamel with a electric random orbit polisher and you'll be impressed......... and just a tip if you try it keep the buffing bonnet WET,
      have a spray bottle full of water and spray it on the bonnet each time u load up the polish paste, be very generous with both.
      there's still bubbles in the paint when u mixed it really well then get some paper towel and "skim" the surface to get rid of the bubbles.
      if you get bubbles when your painting your pushing down on the roller too hard, lighten it up a bit, let the paint sit for 1 minute,
      after you've spread it out nice, then just run the roller over the area VERY gently using only the weight of the roller,
      then turn around, have a smoke after you've done the pannel, and when your done your smoke, turn around and you'll see it has "self leveled"
      before your eyes. if your doing a vertical section just apply a tiny amount of pressure as if it were the weight alone of the roller.
      it's really tricky to do, i could lay it down perfectly level but i have done it alot, you have to "read" the paint, listen carefully,
      it will tell you what to to . hope this helps.
      DON'T use water!!! (to clean the roller, or paper towels)


    30. Member -SLugO-'s Avatar
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      07-13-2009 04:43 PM #65
      Quote, originally posted by le-di-snake »

      it was really nice car.

      whtas that supposed to mean>?

      looks like this for the time being before paint in the fall


    31. Member Niagara_V_Dub's Avatar
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      08-25-2009 10:31 PM #66
      bump for SICK cars, how difficult was it completely changing the color and doing it completely. As in jams, under the hood, and so on. Let me know.
      Insert witty quote

    32. 08-26-2009 10:11 AM #67
      the jambs wouldnt too bad as its really easy to remove the doors completely.

      for me the hardest was deciding what to do about under the hood. i decided to leave the factory green for now. if and when i decide to do the clutch ill just pull the motor and tranny and paint the bay then.


    33. Member MyCarIsRed's Avatar
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      08-26-2009 08:29 PM #68
      Quote, originally posted by wishihada18t »
      the jambs wouldnt too bad as its really easy to remove the doors completely.

      for me the hardest was deciding what to do about under the hood. i decided to leave the factory green for now. if and when i decide to do the clutch ill just pull the motor and tranny and paint the bay then.

      yeah but good luck lining the doors back up without a rack.


    34. Member Niagara_V_Dub's Avatar
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      08-26-2009 09:27 PM #69
      huh? Rack, sorry to show my noobishness (hello websters, theres a new word)
      Insert witty quote

    35. 08-26-2009 11:34 PM #70
      maybe i dont understand but what would a rack do with hanging the doors. i dont see why 2 people cant do them?

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