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    Thread: JB weld a cracked Oil pan...Good idea, or bad Idea

    1. 04-12-2009 09:58 PM #1
      I am assuming its a bad idea, but would like your opinions on it. The gash in the oil pan is about the size of a Band aid. Do you think JB weld or any of there other products would work??

    2. Member Hustlin's Avatar
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      04-12-2009 11:22 PM #2
      Not so much
      pm for air freshener installs. master certified, high rates.

    3. 04-13-2009 10:10 AM #3
      its far from a good idea but I have seen it work on more then one occasion.

      I doubt I'd do it to my car unless it was a "get it home" type repair


    4. Member Eric D's Avatar
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      04-13-2009 07:13 PM #4
      Get it TIG welded.
      The original Dub and Dubber.
      Manche VWs sind einfach schneller als andere.

    5. 04-13-2009 08:43 PM #5
      JB Weld is only good up to 150 degrees

    6. Member nubVR's Avatar
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      04-13-2009 10:13 PM #6
      bad idea.... send it my way, ill fix that ish

    7. Member mechsoldier's Avatar
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      04-14-2009 01:17 AM #7
      JB weld works on an oil pan. You can get it tig welded and that's optimal. But when I was younger I was swapping a 2.4 stratus motor into a 1st gen Dodge Neon and the engine fell and it cracked the cast aluminum pan. I JB welded it and it held fine, but leaked slightly.

      If you're lowered I'd forget this idea as it will likely completely fall apart if it hits just about anything.

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      04-17-2009 11:10 PM #8
      a while back while doing an engine swap on one of my motorcycles i used some **** called aluma weld, i got it from ebay for like 20-30 bucks **** worked and held fine.
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      04-18-2009 09:28 AM #9
      my friend used it once to fill a hole in the block of his dirt bike, i guess he hasnt had any problems with it for about a year or more now

    10. 04-18-2009 09:42 AM #10
      ive done it before and it held for maby 6 months or more but eventully the oil breaks it down and the patch fell out. so its def a good tempory option but wolnt hold up forever!!

    11. Member d-bot's Avatar
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      04-23-2009 11:28 PM #11
      Bar of Soap in a pinch. otherwise get it properly welded or just flat out replaced.

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      04-24-2009 11:56 PM #12
      I have used JB Weld to fix a smashed cam lob in my 5hp briggs motor when i ran it without oil (long story)

      It still runs till this day and beat on all the time (go kart motor)

      and I have fixed my pan on my mk4 gti, worked like a charm (just make sure its clean and dry and you will be fine)


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      04-25-2009 12:13 PM #13
      just get a new pan


      its *always a good idea to cut corners on things that are critical like the engine lubrication system*

      why would you even consider this ??


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      04-25-2009 10:42 PM #14
      Maybe he doesn't have the $150 to spend on a new pan. If you lose oil you'll no instantly, it's not like the motor is going to seize running 5 seconds without oil pressure. If you do it right it will work until you get the money for a new one.
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      04-27-2009 06:14 PM #15
      I had to do this before. Get the JB weld putty. Drain the oil if you can. My pan slid on the ground too many times. Get a bunch of putty, clean it with brake clean and rags. spread putty over the crack wait for it to dry and put in some new oil. Worked for me. I fixed it correct when I got home

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      05-10-2009 05:03 PM #16
      when i worked as a tech at a dealer a guy came in with a beetle oil pan that had the drian plug threads repaired with jb weld along with a heap more slathered over the pan. i showed the other techs and we all had a good laugh. it wasnt leaking though. the customer turned out to be my grandfather, i was embarassed. but i figured out where i got my ghetto fab skills from.

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      05-10-2009 05:47 PM #17
      get it tig welded back together you can probably find someone to weld it allot cheaper than a new pan
      bend it , cut it , grind it, weld it....... drive it! ..... break it........

    18. 05-10-2009 06:13 PM #18
      We've done it SEVERAL times at my old job,it holds ALL THE TIME.

      If your not a ****ing retard over tighning your dp.


    19. Member X37's Avatar
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      11-14-2011 12:53 AM #19
      Glad I found this old thread. I have a hole the size of a straw tip. Don't see $150 in my budget for a new pan so I'll do this to hold me over for a few months.



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      11-14-2011 11:44 AM #20
      I've done it before on my VR & it held up with no problems. I also used like 3 different kinds of epoxy. (Quick Steel & a pace) & let it sit for like 12hours before use.

      But as stated, if you can afford to replace your oil pan replace it. You'll have a peace of mind.

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      11-15-2011 08:48 PM #21
      that metal putty works pretty well actually. I drove probably 400 miles or so before it started to even show any sort of seepage through it. I used it only as a temp fix, and I had a hole a little smaller than a golf ball.



      I put it on the inside and outside
      Last edited by 12veeRsix; 11-15-2011 at 08:51 PM.

    22. 11-18-2011 12:16 AM #22
      I guess if you like half assing. I would never do it on any of my cars.

    23. Member _muppet_'s Avatar
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      11-18-2011 09:42 PM #23
      Quote Originally Posted by X37 View Post
      Glad I found this old thread. I have a hole the size of a straw tip. Don't see $150 in my budget for a new pan so I'll do this to hold me over for a few months.


      You have a steel pan, you should be able to get that fixed for next to nothing if you take it off and clean it up around the hole good enough to be welded. If you were local I would do it for free. Any small welding shop, or exhaust shop would probably only charge you like $10 to weld that up.

      Regarding aluminum pans, I cracked the pan on my s4 the day after I got it. At a local flea market I had picked up some aluminum brazing rods, but they were more like an aluminum solder. I have them out in the garage, I will get some pictures of them. You just heat the piece with a propane or mapp gas torch and work the rod like solder on copper pipes. They actually worked suprisingly well, it held me over until my new pan got here, along with my diesel geek skid plate.

    24. Member speed51133!'s Avatar
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      11-22-2011 03:16 PM #24
      drain the oil, take off the pan. clean it out with brake cleaner.
      heat up the crack with a propane torch to get rig of oil in the crack, then clean again with brake clean.

      then jb weld it.

      it WILL hold or i will pay for your jb weld and your time!

    25. Semi-n00b
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      05-22-2012 10:28 PM #25
      how hot would you say an intake mani gets. dumbsh*t me overtorqued the lower mani to head on my mk4 2.slow and broke it. my old man uses this stuff for lit repairs on heavy mining equipment(1000 tons gross loaded wieght) and he say it works great. but will it hold up to the vibration from an intake mani?

    26. Semi-n00b
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      05-22-2012 10:34 PM #26
      oh and the jb weld isnt a perm fix im waiting to get the money for a new mani. also the torque is only 15ft-lbs so its really not that tight either.

    27. Member Eganx's Avatar
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      05-23-2012 12:26 AM #27
      a necro thread........resurrected form the dead for a second time.......

    28. Member speed51133!'s Avatar
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      05-23-2012 12:28 PM #28
      ive done it on a turbo drain that i cracked. gobbed it all over and it held fine for years.

      to do a proper jb weld you wanna take it off, clean it, heat it to burn off any oil, and then jb weld it by using a flat piece of aluminum or steel to cover the crack and jb weld that little patch.

      for all the hasstle...just replace or get it real welded.

      what location are you in? im sure somoen can do it or reccomend where from here.

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      05-25-2012 01:58 PM #29
      i've seen JB weld hold together air cooled beetle steering rods
      i've also used JB to repair a bad weld on the inside of an intercooler under pretty significant boost
      Last edited by ArsenicPants; 05-25-2012 at 02:00 PM.

    30. Member irishmpls_2's Avatar
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      05-31-2012 12:09 AM #30
      Just use juicy fruit.

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      06-01-2012 11:26 AM #31
      I used JB weld on the side of a block on the dip stick tube of a jeep and it has been fine for over 10 years and 25k miles now. I know it gets over 150 under there when Im wheeling.

    32. Member jegas6228's Avatar
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      07-03-2012 10:36 PM #32
      this is off a little, but same concept i guess... i bought a 2003 yamaha warrior quad, and upon getting it home i noticed right above the sprocket where the guard would bolt via a enraised boss was broken off and took part of the case with it, well whoever did it wadded up some type of epoxy puddy and crammed it in there and smoothed it over.... it works, it dosent leak oil at an alarming pace but there is a damp area around it where it has been seeping, i personally would not have went that route but until riding season is over, thats how its gonna stay, with the oil pan... what if it dosent hold, then what, oil everywhere but where it needs to be, and your out at least a bottom end, those pans are changeable with the motor still in the car, id swap it out before i drove mile one
      there is nothing subtle about a rod knock!

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      07-22-2012 03:16 PM #33
      Quote Originally Posted by speed51133! View Post
      ive done it on a turbo drain that i cracked. gobbed it all over and it held fine for years.

      to do a proper jb weld you wanna take it off, clean it, heat it to burn off any oil, and then jb weld it by using a flat piece of aluminum or steel to cover the crack and jb weld that little patch.
      Also make sure you use the 12 hour kind, not the quick dry, it holds a lot better.

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