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    Thread: 02M 6 speed transmission into Rabbit Mk1

    1. Member CrewCabCaddy's Avatar
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      1981 CrewCab Pickup w/ chipped 1Z TDI/6 Spd. Tran.
      05-30-2009 01:46 AM #26
      Step 6: Axles
      Well, I picked up my axles today. $400 later....don't tell the wife, hide the receipt . I once read on the Vortex that when you start hiding the parts reciepts you know you have a VW problem.
      In short:
      - Purchased two 1992/1993 Eurovan (T4) front axles without ABS. Pulled CV joints off these and the two Mk1 axles and cleaned up the axles.
      - Took all the axles to axle guy and he cut them up and welded them back together at the appropriate length, such that the inner end/spline was T4 and the outer end/spline was Mk1. See below for use of only Mk1 axles in this process.
      Note to file: I had two driver's axles and two passenger axles that were slightly different lengths than the other. And there are solid Mk1 passenger side axles and tube passenger side axles (see photos near bottom of this post). I am not sure if I had Mk1 vs. Mk2 axles, or what, but I had two different lengths and two different styles that seemed to fit my Mk1 rabbit. I just used my original axles for this projects to be sure I was keeping apples with apples. But, to shorten the passenger side axles like I do below, you will need a solid passenger side axle!!!
      The Long Story:
      Problem 1:
      On the 020 transmission, the distance between the axle flange seats is 9 3/16". On the 02M transmission, the same distance is 11 3/4". Therefore, the total length of both axles (COMBINED) needs to be 2 9/16" shorter on the 02M than it was on the 020.
      Solution:
      I measured this flange to flange distance on each tranny, and also the "axle length" distance between each flange and its corresponding wheel bearing axle seat (driver's side and pasenger side). With vehicle resting on the ground (weight on tires), my original 020 driver's side flange to bearing measurement was 17 3/4" and the passenger side was 26 1/8". (This distance will vary a bit car to car depending on ride height, spring type, strut insert stiffness, etc.) With the 02M mounted, these same distances were 16" and 25 3/8". Subtracting the 02M lengths from the 020 lengths gives a 1 3/4" difference on the driver's (short) side and a 3/4" difference on the passenger (long) side, with a total measured difference of 2 8/16"....which miracuously was only 1/16" off from my measured flange to flange difference above. So, I feel pretty good about the amount of axle shortening that was needed...specifically, 1 3/4" off the driver's side and 3/4" off the passenger side axles. This should be consistent for all Mk1s, but make your own measurements.

      Problem 2:
      The 020 inner CV joint is 100 mm diameter but the 02M flange is for 108 mm CV joints. In addition, the spline on the 020 axles is smaller and has more splines than the original 02M axles, AND the 02M axles are a bigger diameter tube, possibly leading to axle to frame clearance issues on the longer passenger side of the vehicles.
      Solutions 2: Change inner axle spline and inner CV joint to 108mm or make adapters that fit between the 100 mm CV and the 02M Flange. Since you need to shorten axles, it did not really make sense to me to create an adapter like this:

      Because this adapter shortens the cv to cv distance even more (increasing angle) and you have to make short axles AND the adapters. Double effort.
      So, I did some research on Vortex, wrote a few PMs and emails, and found that the 1991-1993 Eurovan (T4) had 108 mm inner CV joints that fit the 02M flanges perfectly (The T4 inner CVs look identical to the 02M inner CVs). AND, the T4 108 mm CV axle spline is the same diameter and spline count as the Mk1 rabbit axles. HOWEVER, the spline shape is slightly different between the Mk1 and T4. BUT, Even with this slight spline shape difference I found that you could pretty readily press the T4 axles onto and off the Mk1 axles without doing significant damage to the splines. In fact, I could not see any damage to either the axle or CV spline after removal. What I FORGOT to check is whether you can put the locking Circlip on the Mk1 axle when the T4 CV is pressed onto it. I think it will fit if you DO NOT put the backing washer onto the Mk1 axle first...just let the T4 CV bump up against the angle at the end of the splines. Without the washer, I think there is enough space to get a circlip into its groove, but CHECK THIS BEFORE you make your shortened axles with Mk1 inner splines.
      Regardless of the "rough fit" of the T4 inner CVs on the Mk1 Axles, since I had to cut and shorten the axles, I chose to purchase T4 axles and use a section of the inner T4 axles & splines as the inner portion of my newly shortened Mk1/02M axles. Thus, assuring a true inner and outer CV fit.
      There are some other potential options out there that i discussed a bit here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3741455
      Once I knew how I was going to go about the axle change, and had the measurments, I tried to cut the axles myself with a horizontal metal band saw. What to my dismay did I find, but that the axles are hardened and the saw wouldn't cut...to be expected I suppose, but I didn't really think about it until this point.
      Since I didn't know how deep the hardening went, and I didn't have the tools to work with hardened steel, and didn't want to buy them, I found a local guy who does contract work for a local ring and pinion shop, and had him shorten, weld, and straighten my axles for me.
      Here's the process he used:
      1. Cut the axles...cutting the slightly larger T4 axles an inch longer than needed.
      2. Lathed the cut end of the T4 axle so it had a 1/2 inch diameter by 1" long stem (male end).
      3. Lathed a 1/2 inch diameter hole in the cut end of the Mk1 axles.
      4. Beveled T4 AND Mk1 cut ends at a 45 degree angle down to the base of the 1/2" stem and down to the end of the Mk1 axle where the lathed hole started. The bevels was cut so that when the axles were mated together, the two 45 degree angles met at the bottom/middle, but instead of a "V" shape at the bottom of the bevel, he made it a "U" shape, which evidently allows for a stronger first weld (sharp weld angles are weaker than rounded weld angles).
      5. Threaded the stem and tapped the hole in each set of axles, then screwed the 1" long stem into the tapped hole such that the "U"-shaped bevel met cleanly in the middle.
      6. Heated the axles a bit (I guess about 600 degrees is optimal??? and heat on the entire axle just before welding helps keeps the carbon from sucking out of the hardened steel and into the hotter weld) and stick welded the first weld layer around the bottom of the bevel using a high penetration welding rod. Evidently, the stick welder penetrates better than a wire-feed, although I have been told that using flux-core wire AND shielding gas on a mig wire feed welder also penetrates very well. After a round or two around the axle splice with the stick welder, he then continued to fill the bevel with a mig welder, turning the axle so that the weld heat was applied radially around the axle, not all in one spot at one time. This helps reduce warpage.
      7. Following welding, he cleaned up the weld area on the lathe and measured for straightness. The long passenger axle warped about 0.100 inches out of true, so I think he lathed off a bit on the "high" side to bring it within 0.010 of straight. then measured wobble at the ends and found them to be off only by about 0.002 inches, which should be plenty good. The shorter driver's side axle was 0.040 inches out of true in the middle near the weld, but since the ends of this axle were also within 0.002 inches and he did not get "wobble" at 600 rpm on his lathe, he just left this short axle without "truing it up".
      In this process, I found that the axles are only hardened about 1/8" of an inch or so into the shaft. So, if you are doing this, it is quite possible, using a cut-off wheel, to first grind into the axle through the hardened part, then cut the rest of the way with a good steel band saw. Once inside the axle metal is relatively soft and easy to work on. Now I know I can play with these on my own if I want to in the future.
      - So, I brought the axles home and this is what they looked like:

      you can see the long axle was turned most of its length to get rid of the warpage and make it the same diameter its full length. The T4 axles are slightly larger diameter than the Mk1 axles...and you can see the slight change on the shorter axle in the above picture.
      I then painted the axles and put on new Mk1 larger diameter (Scirocco; 90 mm) outer CV joints and new T4 inner CV joints and the axles looked like this:

      Note, the end cap like this:

      was taken off of the 02M CV. It is a great addition to stop CV grease from flinging all over the engine bay, and makes the fit onto the 02M flanges just perfect
      The new CV joints all came with new CV-to-flange bolts, which I used to attach the inner CVs to the 02M flanges.
      When I first tried to put my axles in, with the tires hanging, I found that I could not fit the 108 mm inner CVs up into the engine compartment far enough to allow the outer CV splines into the hubs. the bigger Tranny and bigger CVs just don't squeeze up far enough to allow outer CV to clear the wheels. So, I undid my ball joint, pulled the hub out a bit, put the outer CV into the hub, then pushed the hub and axle assembly onto the inner 02M axle flange, and put the ball joint stud back into the hub/spindle. Kind of a pain, but only one ball joint bolt...so not too bad.
      The fit seemed very good, such that when the outer CV was locked into its running position, and weight off the wheels, the lowest edge of the inner CV rested in position on the inner flange. Because of the unweighted angle of the axles, to insert and tighten the inner CV mount bolts, I had to pull and angle the inner CV a bit. I think this is a fine fit. Will report again later on fit once I get weight on the wheels and drive a bit. Here are some picks of axle fit:
      Passenger Side



      Driver's Side




      And here is a comparison of my shortened axles, Stock Mk1 axles, and the stock 02M axles:

      I think the stock 02M driver's side axles may be an appropriate length to be used in this swap, if you wanted to have the outer axle spline ground to fit an 020 outer CV.

      A bit more information to come!!



      Modified by CrewCabCaddy at 12:09 PM 6-4-2009
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    2. Member CrewCabCaddy's Avatar
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      06-04-2009 03:17 PM #27
      Step 6: Axles updated.
      Keep on Keepin' On

    3. Member CrewCabCaddy's Avatar
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      06-07-2009 03:35 AM #28
      Well, made the 02A tranny/clutch cover/intermediate plate work for now. Covers up most of the lower tranny and the small area behind the drive flange. Took the truck off the jack stands and tightened up all the axles bolts and lug nuts and didn't have any extra bolts laying around. Fired it up and rolled it out. Aligned the tires with a few rolls back and forth and a few short driveway trips to get toe about right with steering wheel centered. Still pulls to the right a bit...so may have a castor problem...was having this before the new tranny, so not likely related to tranny install.
      Shifts were a bit notchy, so adjusted cable ends. To get the right position on the forward/backward gearshift motion, set the "lower" cable end such that the gear shift moves left directly into (i.e., is centered on) the reverse slot. For me, the left to right cable end adjustment was more of a "feel". Move the gearshift all the way to the right and shift into 5th and 6th. If the gearshift moves a bit left or right as you push the gearshift into 5th or 6th, then adjust the "upper" cable end accordingly until the point when you move the gearshive all the way to the right and it pushes forward to 5th or backward to 6th directly and smoothly with no side to side motion. Then repeat for 1st and 2nd with the gearshift pushed all the way to the left. Find the happy medium. NOTE: there is an official way to do this with a locking pin already on the tranny and a 20d nail to lock the shift lever...see a Bentley manual or learn a little on the dieselgeek shortshifter installation web page.
      Gear shift is a bit short for my liking. Not bad for now, but I'll probably cut it off and add about 4 inches to it, and maybe even a little bend back toward the emergency brake lever. The shift box for this was intended to be mounted a bit higher in the tunnel than on the Mk1...so it isn't surprising that the shift knob is a bit low in an Mk1.
      During all this and at the end of another short drive down my driveway, my clutch master cylinder failed....pushing rusty colored fluid into the reservoir ....so....I guess I got one with water in it instead of fluid.... $130+ new, so went to junkyard and found another clutch master cylinder (1993 passat), with brake fluid still in it...$27.50 and 4 hours later I have another clutch master in place. Bled it, and all is good.
      Side note: you can pull the master cylinder up and out of its position and replace it without pulling the brake servo. I had to move my coolant reservoir, but that is easy. It was a bit of a pain re=threading the clutch fluid line into the master cylinder, but a little patience and in it went.
      Went for a drive down the road about 2 miles each way. Clutch engaged and shifted nicely with the pedal in the upper third of travel at engagement...very nice. Clutch pedal pressure may be slightly more than the old 020 clutch, but not bad at all. Shifts are a bit smoother than 020. Spun the tires a bit on gravel, and then on blacktop, with no hint of clutch slippage. Peloquin seems to be working with both wheels spinning on gravel and blacktop.
      No major vibrations at speeds up to about 50 mph. More on this at higher speeds as the set up proves itself to be reliable.
      There is a harmonic vibration at 2200 rpm. Will have to track that down.
      However, the tranny popped out of third gear twice during the drive. Could be a bad sign. Did some more cable end adjustment and we'll see how it goes.
      Rear tranny mount hit the lower A-arm support as the motor rotated on acceleration...so i had to shave a bit off the front of the back motor mount to "round" off the front bottom corner so it would not hit the lower A-arm support. I'll provide final mount pictures and dimensions soon.
      Seems to be a bit more torque steer than I had hoped for, but this may be related to the apparent bad castor as mentioned above. I'll probably take it to my VW mechanic and have him do some measurements on the alignment.
      Washed, put Armor All on, and placed my british VW floor mats...gotta protect the new carpet. Put all my emergency stuff behind the rear seat, and just about ready to drive for awhile to work out the bugs.
      Put the hood on and parked it outside for the first time in several months. it'll probably rain tonight since i parked her outside
      Drove the riding lawnmower into the shop and pulled the blades off for replacement. After the lawnmower, the Astro van is awaiting brake and EGR work...it never ends.

      Modified by CrewCabCaddy at 12:53 AM 6-7-2009

      Modified by CrewCabCaddy at 12:54 AM 6-7-2009

      Modified by CrewCabCaddy at 12:56 AM 6-7-2009


      Modified by CrewCabCaddy at 9:46 AM 8-30-2009
      Keep on Keepin' On

    4. Member atoson's Avatar
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      06-09-2009 04:34 AM #29
      Didn't read the whole thing, would be nice if you have the Peloquin step by step install with picts. If you posted it already then I have no excuse and really have to read the whole thread, thanks for sharing your DIY. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    5. Member CrewCabCaddy's Avatar
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      06-09-2009 10:28 AM #30
      Quote, originally posted by atoson »
      Didn't read the whole thing, would be nice if you have the Peloquin step by step install with picts. If you posted it already then I have no excuse and really have to read the whole thread, thanks for sharing your DIY. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      I had the Peloquin put in at a shop to the tune of $450.

      More Test Run Info:
      Got the car out on the Freeway. Contrary to what I said in the first test run, the shifting is noticably easier than the 020 tranny.

      1st gear feels the same as the old tranny. The rest of gears 2 through 4 seem to be a bit higher, but probably not much difference. 5th gear takes it up to 65 pretty comfortably, better than 020. I don't have the speedo hooked up yet, so not exactly sure of speeds, but in 6th gear I was holding steady with traffic at approximately 70+ mph at 2200 rpm. Very nice! And can accelerate readily to 80.
      Driving on the country roads I never get out of 4th.
      Engine/power handles the higher gears just fine.
      Clutch engages VERY nicely compared to the old tranny. No vibration or chatter on engagement. Clutch pedal effort really doesn't feel much different.
      Pretty nasty harmonic vibration still at 2200 and up. It only does it when driving with tranny in gear. Between this and the popping out of third I am starting to worry that I got a bad tranny.
      More on speedo as I get it installed.
      Keep on Keepin' On

    6. Member atoson's Avatar
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      06-09-2009 04:22 PM #31
      Quote, originally posted by CrewCabCaddy »
      I had the Peloquin put in at a shop to the tune of $450.
      Best I got was $650 for R32 trans. Why did I skipped my tranny class! Full of regrets [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthdown.gif[/IMG]

    7. Member CrewCabCaddy's Avatar
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      07-14-2009 06:57 PM #32
      Well, I think I tracked down the harmonic vibration...it was not related directly with the tranny, but rather with either a broken alternator bracket bolt or inappropriate pressure on my air intake. So, fixed the bolt and moved my airbox a bit, and lo...the vibration appears to be gone.
      I think I have the alignment issues addressed too. Still some slight torque steer to the right on acceleration, not bad at all though. I'll chat with a couple folks about the Peloquin and see if this is normal.
      The single mass flywheel related tranny rattle is pretty loud. I contacted Aaron at BoraParts and he said they have discontinued using the Eurospec flywheel because of this. He now has a lighter weight balanced flywheel that apparently is reducing/eliminating the rattle. I plan on living with the rattle for now. It disappears with the clutch in and then at about 1500 rpm when driving. Otherwise the clutch is very nice and I can spin both wheels on pavement without any slippage.
      Overall this is a SWEET swap. Cruising the freeway at 65 mph at 2000/2100 rpm is really nice, and even 70/75 mph at about 2400/2500 is still right within the 1Z TDI engine's sweet spot of 1900-2500. The engine has no trouble pulling the vehicle up freeway hills at 1900/2000 rpm.
      So, I am calling this one a success. I'll put another few thousand miles on her and get the speedo hooked up and report back.
      I'll also make some measurements of the motor mounts and post them in the next couple weeks.
      Keep on Keepin' On

    8. Member
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      08-07-2009 06:29 PM #33
      [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      take care,
      nash

    9. Member Original_337's Avatar
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      08-10-2009 11:34 AM #34
      Man, that's awesome you were able to get the axle situation figured out and done, they look really good.
      Congrats on getting your truck done.

    10. Member CrewCabCaddy's Avatar
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      08-17-2009 01:12 AM #35
      Hey All, Still driving her around. Still a lesser harmonic at 2,000 RPM. May be coming from the tranny itself...still doing some searching for cause.
      Below are pictures of the rear motor mount dimensions.
      Here are two pics of first plate that bolts to top of rubber mount which is roughly 2" x 5":


      The key is to get this "top" piece the correct length to meet up with the vertical side piece that bolts to the tranny

      Next is the top angle piece that makes the top rigid by welding it to the front so it hangs over the edge of the rubber mount, roughly 1/2" x 5":


      next is the bottom plate width and length, roughly 1 1/2" x 5". Welds to the top angle, the side vertical, and the back vertical:


      Next is the back vertical plate:




      and last...the side vertical plate:
      Bottom

      Back

      Amid ship

      Note the angle on the left side of the above pic. this was needed to provide clearance for my home made lower A-arm stress bar.
      that's it for the rear mount. All made out of 3/16" steel plate, cut with a 4 1/2" angle grinder with steel cutting/cutoff wheels and grinding wheels.
      happy fabbing



      Modified by CrewCabCaddy at 8:28 PM 8-17-2009
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    11. Member CrewCabCaddy's Avatar
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      08-17-2009 11:33 PM #36
      I will try to get to measurements of the driver's side mount, but am leaving on an extended trip soon, so not likely until October.
      If you look way up above to the build of this mount, I think you can pretty much piece it together. i used 1 1/2" x 3" tube and 3/16" plate.
      And, there is a 3/16" piece between the tube and the round original motor mount. This piece is just the width of the original motor mount and just makes a bit more room to slide the original mount back between the mount brackets.
      As mentioned above, a 1" x 2" or 1' X 3" tube might fit better between the two lower mount bolts...but makes it harder to connect to the original round 020 mount...
      Until later...



      Modified by CrewCabCaddy at 8:38 PM 8-17-2009
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    12. 08-29-2009 05:22 PM #37
      I WANT MORE. Please. would you be willing to make a set of mounts to sell?

    13. Member CrewCabCaddy's Avatar
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      08-30-2009 01:05 PM #38
      Hmmmmm!
      Once I return in October, for a small fee I would definitely be willing to make cardboard templates of each part. Then you could take pictures and templates to a shop and have them welded up.
      I would have to check to see if my business liability insurance would cover me for making automotive parts...I am guessing not...but eventually would like to get into some fabrication work so I'll try to check it out...but, it'll have to wait until October.
      Question is whether I can make them at a price anyone can afford. Probably take me $50 in supplies (steel, tool attachments/blades, welding wire, welding gas, and paint). Figure as a rough estimate a day to cut steel for 6 mounts and another day to drill and weld them up...so figure 16 hours divided by 6 is 2.7...times $75 per hour is $200 labor plus $10 supplies is $210 each plus $15-$20 shipping...total of about $230 per set painted...probably be another $10 or $20 for powder coating.
      Max. of $250 per set for powder coated...maybe less since it may not take a whole day to cut the steel
      That is actually a pretty good price given it took me a couple weeks to figure out and create mine. But can anyone afford it...that is the ultimate question.
      If I did do this, I would have to work with first set to verify fit/function in another vehicle, so first person would have work with me and be very patient



      Modified by CrewCabCaddy at 1:11 PM 9-3-2009
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    14. 08-31-2009 12:37 AM #39
      If you don't want to make them I would pay a small fee for the templates I have a guy that would weld them I would just have to come up with the steel and cut it.

    15. Member DubPhreek's Avatar
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      09-03-2009 03:36 PM #40
      Nicely done!

      No Heatshield for the cabling?

    16. Member CrewCabCaddy's Avatar
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      09-03-2009 04:08 PM #41
      Thanks DubPhreek
      Actually, never thought about heat shielding in the location you pictured above between firewall and shift box. by this distance away from the turbo, the exhaust pipe is "relatively" cool and with the space between the pipe and cables, I would not expect too much heat getting to the cables...
      however, now that you brought it up, I'll check the temp of cables next time I drive in hot weather...and see if this might be a problem..
      I might be able to buy some of the foil heat reflecting material and do a simple wrap of the cables.
      I'll report back after I check the cable temp.
      Keep on Keepin' On

    17. Member DubPhreek's Avatar
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      09-03-2009 04:38 PM #42
      I recently converted to 02J in my 91 gti.. was wonderin what sorta heat those things saw.. in the MKII there's a oe heat shield that I'd taken down during the restore.. tossed that back in last night.. saw your post and was amazed at the work.
      You must have one of those lazer beam heat sensors..



      Modified by DubPhreek at 1:40 PM 9-3-2009

    18. 09-11-2009 03:46 PM #43
      be very interested in either templates or the actual mounts if you could make them up, though shipping would be pricey.

    19. Member Original_337's Avatar
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      09-13-2009 12:42 PM #44
      Not if he sends them to me, and we meet up.

    20. 09-13-2009 12:58 PM #45
      If anyone is interested I have 108mm 33 spline inboard CVs

    21. 09-15-2009 02:51 PM #46
      that'd be helpful or if he can have them done by thanks giving and my brother is over in the states.

    22. Member rocconut's Avatar
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      01-07-2010 05:54 PM #47
      Any updates to this swap? I have the pieces to swap a 02M into my MKI GTI 16V and wondering if it is worth it?

    23. Member CrewCabCaddy's Avatar
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      03-03-2010 01:12 AM #48
      It is WELL worth the swap. I love my 6-spd...now after about 15,000 miles or so. When combined with computer chip and/or injectors, this DRW allows cruising at 75 mph at about 2300 to 2400 rpm, well within the sweet spot for my 1Z TDI and the chip allows acceleration up all freeway hills in 6th gear. Stock ECU just barely holds speed on hills at 70 mph in 6th.
      0-60 is just 2nd and 3rd gears if I push the RPM up to near 3800 or so in 3rd...
      The engine/tranny combo is pretty amazing after driving this rig with the stock 1.6 diesel for 4+ years.
      Keep on Keepin' On

    24. Member CrewCabCaddy's Avatar
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      1981 CrewCab Pickup w/ chipped 1Z TDI/6 Spd. Tran.
      08-05-2010 11:49 AM #49
      Aug. 2010 update

      I got the vehicle speed sensor hooked up awhile ago, and that smoothed things out a bit. No more fault codes in the ECU. With all the changes, i have gone from 32 mpg with the 020 tranny to 40+ mpg now.

      With the vehicle speed sensor hooked up, and a 1991/1992 cabriolet steering column installed (w/ cruise control stalk), I hooked up the 1991 cruise switch to the 1996 passat ECU cruise control wires and lo and behold...I have cruise control in my 1981 rabbit...really cool. I hope to hook up the 1991/92 cabriolet airbag too.

      I still have the harmonic vibration at about 2200 rpm. Have played with motor mounts a bit but it appears vibration is from inside the tranny...so will likely have to rebuild the tranny...guess it was too good of a deal from Denon Performance Parts up in B.C.

      I put 195/70/14 tires on (playing with ride height/tire sizes) and I can now cruise at 75 mph @ 2300 rpm in 6th. I actually only use 6th on the 70 mph stretches of freeway and with the chipped ECU it climbs all the hills with the cruise on in 6th, so enough power to site and fly...assuming traffic gets out of the way. Once I get the axles balanced, I should be able to cruise @ 85 or 90 in the 2400 to 2500 rpm range...assuming I am traveling through Montana, of course .

      Side note...if you create your own axles...have them balanced before install. I will also likely balance my flywheel clutch next time I remove the tranny.

      Installed 96 passat brake booster and master cylinder and hooked up the fluid reservoir level sensor to the rabbit oil idiot light...and installed 16v rear brake proportioning valves. The reservoir has the spigot for connection to the hydraulic clutch master cylinder, so disconnected the 96 civic clutch fluid reservoir I had installed and connected clutch master cylinder to the 96 passat reservoir.

      Working on additional 1" front and 1.5" rear lift (top of front fender well is at about 26.5" now and shooting for 27.5" to 28" rear fender well height). Put in Hella fog light grill and hooked up the lights to a factory fog switch. Installed A-pillar guage pod with EGT and boost guages...still need to hook up the guages. After guage hook up, will be customizing some Zender side skirts to fit the crew cab configuration. Found door cards I wanted so will be installing them along with sound deadening in the doors and roof...then exterior paint/bedliner as soon as $ allows.

      Looks like the factory undercoating is peeling off, so need a pressure wash and new undercoating too...then hopefully I can drive it for awhile!!!
      Last edited by CrewCabCaddy; 08-08-2010 at 10:05 PM.
      Keep on Keepin' On

    25. Member CrewCabCaddy's Avatar
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      Feb 6th, 2002
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      Vehicles
      1981 CrewCab Pickup w/ chipped 1Z TDI/6 Spd. Tran.
      12-19-2011 11:47 AM #50
      Dec. 2011 Update,

      Been driving the TDI/02M as my every day vehicle for nearly two years now since swap. Probably 40,000 miles or more. I still love the combination, peppy (with chip) AND fuel efficient.

      May have a problem with driver's side (short axle) cv/axle angle such that the axle is at enough of an angle that it ruins the CV boot. It lasted quite a while, but noticed the other day the boot was gone...so need to look into that a bit to see if it just ripped off, or if there is something rubbing somewhere that can be fixed....or not...will report if an issue.

      Boost gauge in place...still wating to purchase EGT probe from guy on TDI Club forums and get that installed. Been too busy making a living to do much work on the Crew Cab

      Been ogling some new larger injectors to boost HP and torque a bit more...seems one can never have quite enough oomph. and I keep wondering how much damage a larger tubo would really do

      I was going to paint this truck 5 years ago...so maybe I should work on that next...getting heat in the shop this month, so painting the rig myself becomes more possible. All I need now is more money and time.

      Cheers
      Last edited by CrewCabCaddy; 12-19-2011 at 11:52 AM.
      Keep on Keepin' On

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