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    Thread: the complete HOW TO connecting rod install... (videos inside)

    1. 05-05-2009 05:10 AM #26
      awesome work.
      not a criticism but with an interference engine I was always told that it is best to set head and block to Cyl 1 TDC BEFORE fitting the head.
      Any rotation of crank to TDC after the head is fitted risks touching valves doesn't it?

    2. 05-05-2009 07:04 AM #27
      very cool

    3. 05-05-2009 08:49 AM #28
      This is great, watched it last night, thanks!

    4. 05-05-2009 08:51 AM #29
      thanks guys for all the comps [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      Quote, originally posted by jc_bb »
      awesome work.
      not a criticism but with an interference engine I was always told that it is best to set head and block to Cyl 1 TDC BEFORE fitting the head.
      Any rotation of crank to TDC after the head is fitted risks touching valves doesn't it?


      you are correct and i did have the head set to TDC while setting the head,
      i did mention this while doing the timing belt, i should of said it earlier. thats another reason to set the pistons so they are not @ tdc which i also did, just incase you forget one or the other
      thanks again guys for all the props, i really appreciate all of it [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    5. Member HidRo's Avatar
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      05-05-2009 09:07 AM #30
      This is really really really nice!!!
      Congrats man!!
      But hey, on a side note:
      in here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLeWALY28Xg&hd=1 at minute 6:19 do I hear strap on d1ld0? What the hell where you watching on TV? ahahhah
      EIGH-T6 // "Give me enough traction, and I will spin the WORLD!"
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      05-05-2009 09:14 AM #31
      's on me!
      As I just rounded 51k miles.. I'll be jumping head first into this soon enough.
      Huge props on such a great post! FAQ status.
      UNI 630 tune controlling PTE 50Trim .63ar @ 20psi on CTS/Kinetic setup with IE Rods and power transferred to ground through Wavetrac LSD, SBC Stage 4 Kit, RAxles

    7. 05-05-2009 09:16 AM #32
      Quote, originally posted by HidRo »
      This is really really really nice!!!
      Congrats man!!
      But hey, on a side note:
      in here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLeWALY28Xg&hd=1 at minute 6:19 do I hear strap on d1ld0? What the hell where you watching on TV? ahahhah


      its howard stern on the radio, i cant live without that

    8. 05-05-2009 09:27 AM #33
      Quote, originally posted by 04VDubGLI »
      I just have a couple of questions... if you don't mind .
      So, where did you get the 180 grit hone from? Is there a way to find out the grit of a hone? I'd assume it's probably on the stem or somewhere?
      Also, what is the "lower" side of the second ring gap. I had heard the upper side @ ~.0175". Which was opened up for 400whp IIRC?
      And lastly, I believe it said the head bolts should receive a light coating of oil prior to install, correct? Not assembly lube, but just the ND SAE 30?
      Do you follow that MotoMan break in plan then? Is there any chance you could put the exact steps you utilize up? I.e. Idle for 20 mins, change oil, drive 40% throttle, etc...
      Just wanted to check these few things I was wondering. The DIY was great. I actually was surprised at the small details I was unaware of (i.e. 600-800rpm drill, 7 clockwise, 7 fast clockwise, 7 counterclock , and then assembly lube for the cyls, not oil for putting the pistons back in).
      Thank you again! Great work! [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      brush research makes the hone. you can find them on ebay pretty cheap. 180 grit is designated by a red paint mark on the top of the shaft.
      upper comp ring gap was 0.016"
      lower comp ring gap was 0.018"
      the method used to determine these gaps is standard practice by aftermarket piston mfgs per intended engine use. see here...
      http://jepistons.com/dept/tech...8.pdf

      i used regular oil, not assembly lube for torquing the head bolts. 10-30 will soak over the threads in this case a little better than nd30.
      the bentley makes no mention of oiling the bolts but it should absolutly be done for proper torque readings. the type of lube changes the readings of the wrench so stick with standard oil 10w-30 or similar

      and that other video on breakin..... ill let someone else make that one

    9. Member HidRo's Avatar
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      05-05-2009 10:00 AM #34
      I just finished watching everything till the end.
      Really nice work man. I really loved to see everything, every little detail!
      With this, you would only need to have a laptop with all the movies loaded heeheh
      Congrats one more time man
      EIGH-T6 // "Give me enough traction, and I will spin the WORLD!"
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    10. 05-05-2009 10:20 AM #35
      Thats was the best DIY vids i've seen on here. Makes me wanna go build a motor even though i'm motor dumb.

    11. 05-05-2009 10:45 AM #36
      +2 cookies for you!! [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      I always wanted to see a good write up like this!
      Edit- Pg2 is mine.

    12. Member badger5's Avatar
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      05-05-2009 12:27 PM #37
      Superb write up..
      very impressed you did this and took time to video it, edit it well, and post up for others to learn from.
      thankyou sir.
      GT35R, Full-Race, DTA S60, SEM, WMI, 8 injectors, SQS Transmission, 1000kg car, >500bhp, Racecar (circuit)
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    13. 05-05-2009 12:34 PM #38
      cheers [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
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      05-05-2009 01:18 PM #39
      very good how-to [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      almost makes me want to do a 2nd built motor

    15. 05-05-2009 01:43 PM #40
      Did you use the GB Flex Hone 83mm Silicon Carbide 180 grit tool?

    16. 05-05-2009 03:55 PM #41
      Quote, originally posted by number1275 »
      Did you use the GB Flex Hone 83mm Silicon Carbide 180 grit tool?
      Yep, thats what he used.. Impressive vid my friend [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
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    17. Member brookrock's Avatar
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      05-05-2009 04:54 PM #42
      Nice Job. I'm sure this will help alot of folks.

    18. 05-05-2009 05:36 PM #43
      Quote, originally posted by number1275 »
      Did you use the GB Flex Hone 83mm Silicon Carbide 180 grit tool?

      any websites that sells them? aka link for one?
      also a link for the thing that cleans the block and head?
      Quote Originally Posted by Us2bA4dr View Post
      seriously, you are 21 years old, and a male, please stop typing like a 12 year old girl....

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      05-05-2009 06:40 PM #44
      This is where I got my Flex Hone and I found this 3M Not sure the 3M is the correct one...waiting for the OP to chime in




      Modified by jwalker1.8 at 5:42 PM 5-5-2009

    20. 05-05-2009 08:54 PM #45
      Very nice work. One thing though. i wouldn't pound/tap the rod open after the plasti gauge step. you are effectively pounding on the plasti gauge until the dowels let go. This could throw your measurements off a bit. otherwise good job.

    21. 05-06-2009 01:24 AM #46
      Quote, originally posted by jwalker1.8 »
      This is where I got my Flex Hone and I found this 3M Not sure the 3M is the correct one...waiting for the OP to chime in

      yes and yes [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      it was a 3.25" GB 180 grit silicone carbide...you can find them on ebay pretty cheap
      thats a good find on the 3m roloc bristle disc for 8 bucks. they are hard to come by without buying at least 10


      Modified by jazzpur at 6:25 AM 5-6-2009

    22. 05-06-2009 01:45 AM #47
      Quote, originally posted by DubGray1.8T »
      Very nice work. One thing though. i wouldn't pound/tap the rod open after the plasti gauge step. you are effectively pounding on the plasti gauge until the dowels let go. This could throw your measurements off a bit. otherwise good job.

      i see what you are saying, but we are talking about tightening a 3/8" bolt to 50lbft.....that yields approx 8000 lbs of axial clamp force per bolt ...times two bolts...thats 16,000 pounds of axial clamp force used in flattening that plastigauge...atleast of coarse until clearance is limited to extents
      although the shock with the hammer is more of a radial force, i highly doubt that extra 5lb tap with the rubber mallet is effecting the plastigage readings to the point where they are false.
      i see what youre saying though, if you guys tap them dont kill it, but trust me....those caps are no fun to take off without a little tap.
      again, these are the methods i choose to use...
      thanks guys for more props btw [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]


      Modified by jazzpur at 6:48 AM 5-6-2009

    23. 05-06-2009 03:45 AM #48
      Quote, originally posted by jazzpur »
      yes and yes [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      it was a 3.25" GB 180 grit silicone carbide...you can find them on ebay pretty cheap
      thats a good find on the 3m roloc bristle disc for 8 bucks. they are hard to come by without buying at least 10

      so the 3.25" ~83mm is fine with our 81mm bore?

      good find on the links [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Quote Originally Posted by Us2bA4dr View Post
      seriously, you are 21 years old, and a male, please stop typing like a 12 year old girl....

    24. 05-06-2009 08:53 AM #49
      Quote, originally posted by lucas13dourado »
      so the 3.25" ~83mm is fine with our 81mm bore?

      good find on the links [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      yes they are meant to be used on smaller bores, hence the "flex"....with the 83...you know that you are contacting the the cyl walls entirely.
      keep in mind, if your motor is has uneven or excessive wear in the cyl walls you should skip this step and have a machine shop professionally hone your block

    25. Member theguy1084's Avatar
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      05-06-2009 08:56 AM #50
      Thanks to the OP as I will be doing this is a few weeks [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] Its a good confidence builder and shows how easy it really is.
      You have my vote on being a FAQ

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