Well I made it through 3 hours at the glen without major issues.
I kept an eye on the drivers side axle nut, and after every session it was backing off one tooth (12 point nut) So I kept on torquing it again and again. Im guessing ~ 400 ft-lbs and it would not hold. A white line on the nut and axle showed it backing off.
Monday night I remove the nut, cleaned with brake clean to remove all anti seize. I reapplied with red loc-tite and no lube - NEW nut still a nyloc insert - again ~400 ft-lbs. It moved after the second session. Then I torqued when it was hot (burn your hands on wheel hot) and it held for 2 sessions. I am looking now for a large flanged nut with a metal locking feature instead of the nylon insert. All the nuts I have look like nylock, some looked metal but they were just cad plated over plastic.
The pass side - uses a big Allen bolt instead of a nut (OEM audi 6 speed axle) This did not move after ~350 ft-lb torque applied. (inside wheel though at the glen). I am still wondering what to do about the damn axle nut though. Do I go to a bolt instead, and have raxles swap the drivers side back to a bolt style instead of a nut. I can't remember if the OEM used a nylock or metal only. Maybe mcmaster carr has some big flanged metal locking nuts. Or some huge nord-loc's.
I ground down the spindles to make more CV boot clearance - no signs of rubbing on the raxles (more clearance anyways) and the pass side had no signs of rubbing either. Drove the car 960 miles round trip including track time. I had a dolley and a rescue vehicle if needed, but no need.
Toasted a fresh set of hawk blues, 20 gal of 100 oct- corded my V710- 245's had an awesome weekend with the BMW club. I pretty much murdered the experienced/advanced run group with no one passing me during my hot laps. Next time Ill try and run with the open track/instructor groups.
I have about 20 min of vid with some m3 whooping, ill try to get that on youtube