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    Thread: AC and Power steering delete ?

    1. Member Busted Fox WaGeN's Avatar
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      05-16-2009 06:59 PM #1
      can i delete my ac and power steering? just going to be a race car taking off as much as possible
      from looking can i just take them off and get a smaller belt from this pic looks like that possible


    2. 05-16-2009 07:07 PM #2
      yes you can.

    3. Member Busted Fox WaGeN's Avatar
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      05-16-2009 07:10 PM #3
      Quote, originally posted by WeeZFan69 »
      yes you can.

      so i measure the distance around and hit up auozone and im good to go?

    4. 05-16-2009 07:16 PM #4
      yep i got a 43.60" dayco belt from advanced and that fit fine, its part number 5060436

    5. Member Busted Fox WaGeN's Avatar
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      05-16-2009 07:18 PM #5
      Quote, originally posted by WeeZFan69 »
      yep i got a 43.60" dayco belt from advanced and that fit fine, its part number 5060436

      your the man!!! thanks so much! on my way to advance

    6. 05-16-2009 08:36 PM #6
      i forgot to mention that i think it has to be 6 rib cause I have never seen a 7 made in that length.

    7. Member Busted Fox WaGeN's Avatar
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      05-17-2009 01:35 AM #7
      Quote, originally posted by WeeZFan69 »
      i forgot to mention that i think it has to be 6 rib cause I have never seen a 7 made in that length.

      gave them part # ordered it will be in monday it was $17.50 ill find out then [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

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      05-17-2009 02:41 PM #8
      the belt has to be a 6 rib. there is a bolt head that sticks out the side of the block that will tear up the inside of a 7 rib belt. you have to align the 6 rib belt with the outer edge of the pullies (away from the block) in order to avoid that. get a 6pk1105 or a 6pk1065 (if you have an under-drive crank pulley)

    9. 05-17-2009 06:20 PM #9
      Quote, originally posted by crazysccrmd »
      the belt has to be a 6 rib. there is a bolt head that sticks out the side of the block that will tear up the inside of a 7 rib belt. you have to align the 6 rib belt with the outer edge of the pullies (away from the block) in order to avoid that. get a 6pk1105 or a 6pk1065 (if you have an under-drive crank pulley)

      Uhm... which bolt head would it hit and why would that not hit when you use a long 7?

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      05-17-2009 06:25 PM #10
      i dont remember what bolt it is, but using a 7 rib puts the belt right along it. its there, trust me. look between the crank pulley and alt pulley along where the belt runs and you'll see it

    11. Geriatric Member steveo27's Avatar
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      05-31-2009 03:51 PM #11
      so i went to advanced auto and picked up a belt. something tells me its wrong they didnt have the PN listed in this thread, but they cross referenced it and came up with this...


      its a 6 rib. but it only has ribs one one side instead of both like the OEM one
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    12. 05-31-2009 05:09 PM #12
      thats okay youd ont need ribs on both sides.

    13. Geriatric Member steveo27's Avatar
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      05-31-2009 06:09 PM #13
      awesome! wasnt postive, im used to building 8Vs
      i got all the AC and PS stuff ripped off, cut down the AC bracket, and mounted the belt up. fits perfect [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
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    14. 05-31-2009 08:22 PM #14
      you only need a double sided belt with ac, once thats removed you can use a single sided.

    15. Geriatric Member steveo27's Avatar
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      06-01-2009 03:02 AM #15
      awesome
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    16. Member broke_rado's Avatar
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      06-02-2009 11:03 PM #16

      my setup. moved the alternator down to for more intake manifold clearance.
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    17. Member Busted Fox WaGeN's Avatar
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      06-03-2009 08:44 PM #17
      Quote, originally posted by broke_rado »

      my setup. moved the alternator down to for more intake manifold clearance.
      Quote, originally posted by broke_rado »

      my setup. moved the alternator down to for more intake manifold clearance.

      any clearance issue with rad with the alt being there?

    18. Member broke_rado's Avatar
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      06-04-2009 12:20 PM #18
      Nothing is stock so kinda hard to say. I built my own radiator brackets.
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      06-04-2009 01:42 PM #19
      Quote, originally posted by WeeZFan69 »
      Uhm... which bolt head would it hit and why would that not hit when you use a long 7?

      with the belt being at a different angle it will come into contact with a bolt that holds the aluminum front main seal cover thats behind the crank pulley
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    20. Member broke_rado's Avatar
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      06-04-2009 01:45 PM #20
      I used a 5 or 6 rib belt on mine and it hits nothing.
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    21. Member mrbeetle's Avatar
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      06-04-2009 08:48 PM #21
      broke_rado, any pics of how you modified the bracket? I like how that turned out!
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    22. 06-04-2009 09:04 PM #22
      did you make the alt bracket or is it a modified vw part

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      06-04-2009 09:53 PM #23
      I'm using a 45" 5 rib belt.
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    24. Member broke_rado's Avatar
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      06-04-2009 10:54 PM #24
      Quote, originally posted by najort32 »
      did you make the alt bracket or is it a modified vw part

      Its the stock Alt/AC bracket. It uses the bottom Alternator holes and the top AC holes. takes some modifications but its pretty straight forward.



      Somewhat better pics. I eventually want to make one where it gets rid of the tensioner and i use the alternator to make tension on the belt.
      540whp, 450wtq ALL STOCK VR6 built by ---> dubsquared

    25. 06-04-2009 11:41 PM #25
      So, I deleted my a/c cuz it didnt work, now my power steering makes noise when I turn the wheels at a dead stop. I'm thinking of deleting it because it might fail in the future. How hard is it to turn the wheels without PS? & What all has to be deleted; I know the pump, lines, and bottle. What do you do at the Rack or w/e???

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