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    Thread: DIY: Rear Camber Shims

    1. Senior Member CapeGLS's Avatar
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      05-17-2009 03:01 PM #1
      Disclaimer: I accept no responsibility for your actions while following this DIY.
      Depending on your knowledge/tools you should be able to do this in about an hour and half.

      Step 1: Purchase camber shims from select vendor. *I highly recommend the 16mm offset wrench*

      Step 2: Jack up car and pull off the wheels. Make sure the front wheels are chucked and you put a jackstands under the rear of the car. Release e brake handle.

      Step 3: Remove center cap off of hub, it’s the aluminum cap in the center.

      Step 4: Remove the 8mm bolt holding the ABS sensor to the back of the dustshield DO NOT REMOVE SENSOR AT THIS POINT.

      Step 5: Undo 2 bolts holding the caliper to the carrier, and ziptie caliper out of the way.

      Step 6: Remove the 30mm hub nut in the center of the wheel.

      Step 7: GENTLY remove abs sensor and secure it into a safe location near caliper.

      Step 8: Install gear puller (5mm spread min) onto hub, and use hub stub as the centering location for the bolt. **TO REINSTALL HUB, CENTER AND TIGHTEN THE 30MM NUT)

      Step 9: Remove hub and set aside

      Step 10: Remove the four 16mm bolts holding the hub to the dust shield to the rear beam.

      Step 11: Remove the 2 bolts holding the brake carrier (you will need to shim this so the rotor does “wobble” when it comes around to the caliper.) (THESE BOLTS ARE VERY TIGHT)

      Step 11: Install camber shim and follow steps to put everything back together.

      DO NOT FORGET TO SHIM THE CARRIER (I used 2 washers on the bottom bolt, and 1 on the top bolt on a -1.0 shim)

      Good luck and Enjoy!

      USE THIS DIAGRAM BELOW FOR MORE ASSISTANCE: THIS PHOTO IS BORROWED FROM SOMEONE ELSE (BUT I AM UNSURE WHO I GOT IT FROM)





      Modified by CapeGLS at 8:36 PM 5-17-2009

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    2. Member justn868's Avatar
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      05-17-2009 03:05 PM #2
      great write up!
      Do you happen to have any before/after pics??

    3. Senior Member CapeGLS's Avatar
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      05-17-2009 03:11 PM #3
      No After pictures as the wheels are at Forgeline right now.
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    4. Member J.Michael.S's Avatar
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      05-17-2009 07:15 PM #4
      Before / After pix would be nice! wondering how much more clearance you get with a -1.0 shim?! That is if you are going for the negative camber look or are you just correcting alignment? I was planning on going -2.0/-3.0 in the rear. Can you reuse the old bearings?!


      Modified by J.Michael.S at 7:17 PM 5-17-2009

    5. Senior Member CapeGLS's Avatar
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      05-17-2009 08:32 PM #5
      I reused the old bearings.
      I chose to add some negative camber to allow more tuckage.

      Before:

      After:

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    6. Member shimmy2244's Avatar
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      05-17-2009 08:36 PM #6
      Quote, originally posted by CapeGLS »

      I chose to add some negative camber to allow more tuckage.

      correct me if i'm wrong, but doesn't this have nothing to do with tuckage on our solid rear beam axles? Doesn't it basically just push the lower portion of the hub out, leaving the upper portion in the same position?

      install looks good tho

      -brandon

    7. Senior Member CapeGLS's Avatar
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      05-17-2009 08:38 PM #7
      It actually kicked it outward about the width of a piece of paper.

      If one added correction for toe then you would be able to get a bit lower.

      I actually purchased the MasonTech great plates, so in combination with those I hope to gain about an 1/8 of an inch clearance.



      Modified by CapeGLS at 8:45 PM 5-17-2009

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    8. Member euRo_tuner's Avatar
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      05-17-2009 09:18 PM #8
      i need to do this bad..

      my toe is way off.. my rear tires are gettin' eatin. the inside of my tires are scalloping/feathering


    9. Senior Member CapeGLS's Avatar
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      05-18-2009 07:30 AM #9
      Hopefully this DIY helps you out.
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    10. Member langgard.net's Avatar
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      05-18-2009 07:54 AM #10
      what thickness is the washers you used to shim the carrier ?

    11. Member Beersix's Avatar
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      05-18-2009 09:28 AM #11
      Why did you remove the hub and bearing?? if you buy the specialty tool, you can remove the whole piece without damaging the bearing.
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    12. Senior Member CapeGLS's Avatar
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      05-18-2009 11:02 AM #12
      Quote, originally posted by Beersix »
      Why did you remove the hub and bearing?? if you buy the specialty tool, you can remove the whole piece without damaging the bearing.


      I had the specialty tool, but chose to remove the hub because of the fact that using the specialty tool only gives you about a 1/4 of an inch of room to work. Maybe 1/2 inch.

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      05-18-2009 11:07 AM #13
      sweet DIY, something i hope to not have to do tho but im still unsure of how my rears are sitting. waitin to see if i get any nasty looking tire wear.
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    14. 05-18-2009 11:18 AM #14
      Tight sick write up... I think I'm gonna stack em' up...
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    15. Senior Member CapeGLS's Avatar
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      05-19-2009 07:15 AM #15
      I almost went with -1.5 but figured that might be a bit too much.
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      05-22-2009 03:41 AM #16
      Quote, originally posted by CapeGLS »
      I almost went with -1.5 but figured that might be a bit too much.

      great write up ive been contemplating doing -3 as ive heard thats about the max you can do


    17. Member dremhmrk2's Avatar
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      05-22-2009 09:54 AM #17
      Ugh, you raped your bearing. When you pull the bearings off the inner race tends to stay on the shaft, and I think from your photos this happened to you. You basically broke the seal on your bearing.

      Also, any time you remove the axle nut it must be replaced with a new one.


      Modified by dremhmrk2 at 9:56 AM 5-22-2009

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    18. Senior Member CapeGLS's Avatar
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      05-22-2009 04:54 PM #18
      Drew, from other talks with people you can reuse the bearings if you regrease them. Only time will tell if the bearings are shot. The inner race stayed on the stub.
      Again, you are correct about the nut. Per VW you are only allowed to use most bolts once, I don't feel that I am putting myself in danger with reusing this nut. A bit of tocktite on the threads can add a bit of security.
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    19. Member dragon813gt's Avatar
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      05-22-2009 05:00 PM #19
      should have stacked like 7 of those shims to get some real camber

    20. Senior Member CapeGLS's Avatar
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      05-22-2009 05:01 PM #20
      haha.... -1.0 in the rear and -1.8 up front is enough for me.
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    21. 08-06-2009 03:09 PM #21
      OP - when you mention "shimming the carrier with washers - 1 on top, 2 on bottom" you're referring to the caliper carrier? What thickness washers you use? If that's off or not done, pad wear would be on an angle....
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    22. Senior Member CapeGLS's Avatar
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      09-30-2009 04:24 PM #22
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    23. Senior Member tchristemac's Avatar
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      09-30-2009 04:53 PM #23
      Dustin, great write... and would anyone doubt this MAN.. I use that LOOSELY.... MUAHAHAHHAHAHAHHAHAHAH....

    24. Member Dat24V's Avatar
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      09-30-2009 05:03 PM #24
      Great DIY.. A+

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      11-20-2010 03:27 AM #25
      VRSociety #132

    26. Senior Member CapeGLS's Avatar
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      11-21-2010 09:59 AM #26
      Just because I have been getting a ton of PM's.
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      11-21-2010 10:31 AM #27
      you dont "have to" pull the rear bearings

      but good write up!

      ps. add more
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    28. Senior Member CapeGLS's Avatar
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      12-10-2010 06:36 AM #28
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    29. Senior Member CapeGLS's Avatar
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      01-24-2011 03:17 PM #29
      Update: Wheel bearings are still aok. Doing this install again on another beam I have in the garage.
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    30. Member VRtotheSix's Avatar
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      01-24-2011 03:34 PM #30
      Quote Originally Posted by CapeGLS View Post
      Update: Wheel bearings are still aok. Doing this install again on another beam I have in the garage.
      Any sources where to get the toe shims?

    31. Senior Member CapeGLS's Avatar
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      01-24-2011 03:53 PM #31
      A quick google search of SPC Shims (see first picture)
      http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy&h...73bcec2e6e3c54

      Will tell you where to get them. I purchased mine from EuroSportAcc (But you might be able to find them local if you have a shop around.)

      Camber and Toe shims are the same, you just change the orientation of the shim when installing it.
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      01-24-2011 07:27 PM #32
      Quote Originally Posted by CapeGLS View Post
      A quick google search of SPC Shims (see first picture)
      http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy&h...73bcec2e6e3c54

      Will tell you where to get them. I purchased mine from EuroSportAcc (But you might be able to find them local if you have a shop around.)

      Camber and Toe shims are the same, you just change the orientation of the shim when installing it.
      Ohhhh see I thought they were two different things. So at -2 camber shims what toe would I need?

    33. Senior Member CapeGLS's Avatar
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      01-25-2011 07:01 AM #33
      You will need to figure that out. I am not sure how much toe you have now. I don't have my toe measurements in front of me right now, so I can't comment. Its not an equation, each car is different.
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      01-25-2011 07:20 AM #34
      Quote Originally Posted by VRtotheSix View Post
      Ohhhh see I thought they were two different things. So at -2 camber shims what toe would I need?
      I did -2 camber and ended up using 1degree of toe and haven't had a tire wear issue out of them since and have driven prolly well over 10000 miles on my rears...
      With that being said: (disclaimer) don't take that as a end all be all final measurement... It was a guesstimate on my part, and every car will be a little different...
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    35. Member syntax's Avatar
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      02-01-2011 01:24 PM #35
      bumping an old thread instead of starting a new one...

      my rears have different camber. I haven't done any modding to them, but I would like to make them the same. Since they are different, I'm not sure where to begin. Is there a formula to estimate your camber, and translate that to what you need for shims to correct (or in my case, match) cambers???
      (not my car)


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