Project Blacker II BEV 16V Turbo

[duke_seb]

hey rey or shifty

if this the tensioner that i need?

is there a special way to put this on the head or anything? I have never had to deal with a dampener before does the head have a hole it it to accomodate it

http://www.germanautoparts.com...26/11

[Shifty]

No you'll need the 16v one. Like this:

http://www.worldimpex.com/part....html

PM replied BTW!

[elRey]

I didn't consider the 1.8T hydraulic tensioner because I didn't have one on hand like I did for the 8v and 16v and because of the price.

BUT looking at some pictures online, It 'may' be possible to use it. You won't know unless you try it.


Modified by elRey at 10:17 PM 11-15-2009

[duke_seb]

didnt you suggest to me somewhere that i can use it?

i guess ill have to pick the stuff up tomorrow and check to see if it will work

[duke_seb]

from what i can tell looking in the bentley i think it may just work... I took a look at one of the tensioners yesterday and it does stick out a good half inch further then the 16V one which if about what i noticed when i tried putting spacers behind the 16V tensioner to line it up

the only thing i dont know for sure right now is if the 2L block has the 1.8T lower dampener hole i assume it would considering they are the same block just bored out

from looking at my pictures i do have the upper hole so let us pray... ill let everyone know tomorrow..... the price for the dampener and tensioner arent that bad i priced them out at about 100 bucks for them both, certainly cheaper then making a custom spacer that might not work right

[6a2.0digi2]

hi, found this thread and wondered what output you where expecting to get with this combination,

did a 16v digi2 conversion in july 2008 as phase1 progressing hopefully to a 16v eaton at some time, considering a turbo, had thoughts about using 1.8T ecu and wiring as a possibility then forgot about the thought then remembered about it when i found your build,

what ecu and wiring would you be using and do you think this is a possibility with the mk2 fuse box

[duke_seb]

Ok so i got some big work done today..... some rreally important work actually....

I finally sorted out my issue with using plugs and wires and instead am using coil packs now.....

I had to do some major trimming to get the coils to get all the way down but they are snug in there... I think ill look for an oring or something to try and seal the holes a little more but they are in there good

here are the stages of the trim

1. You have to use and exacto knife and shave all rubber off the coil all the way up to the top indent (comes off easy)

2. You get a hack saw and you cut the plastic that is underneath until you get to the metal and then you pull that off (wasnt that hard)

Next thing i got was my oil return line back.... strictly hydraulics in dartmouth made it up for me i would highly recommend then they have done a few lines for me im getting them to make up all my braided stuff

Also got my TB mounted (ignore the hoses I just threw them on there so i didnt loose them

I think im going to look at attaching the CPS from a 1.8T right onto the cam gear if possible...... then block off the dizzy side..... I have to get access to a 1.8T head with some parts on it and i might be able to..... I dont know yet

ill keep you all posted

[duke_seb]

Quote, originally posted by 6a2.0digi2 »

hi, found this thread and wondered what output you where expecting to get with this combination, did a 16v digi2 conversion in july 2008 as phase1 progressing hopefully to a 16v eaton at some time, considering a turbo, had thoughts about using 1.8T ecu and wiring as a possibility then forgot about the thought then remembered about it when i found your build, what ecu and wiring would you be using and do you think this is a possibility with the mk2 fuse box

Im hoping for around 300HP 280-300TQ ish

as for your question I would go standalone if i were you...... if i had to do over again my whole build I think i woud have done a 20V head so i could use the 2L block and all 1.8T stuff.... for you to use the 1.8T harness youll have a lot of extra things that you wont need the 1.8T ECU is going to go crazy and i doubt youd be able to use the MKII fuse box....

if you want more power out of your car eithr do standalone or find yourself a complete 1.8T and do a swap

[Shifty]

Looking good bro, nice progress!!!

[6a2.0digi2]

1.8t conversions out the question, and so is standalone

the reason your thread stood out to me was the title mkiv 16vt, i fully expected to read that you where using standalone bt then i read that you where using( 1.8T (late model) ECU 1.8T (Late model) Wiring Harness) this is the bit that got really interested as all other threads on 16vt are either standalone or digi1

digi1 wld be easy change ecu and wiring and all assosiated intake plumbing

the idea of using an easily remappable 20vt ecu and wiring is so appeling tht i think thts why i had the thought so many month ago, i admit that i know shi* about 20vt's apart from tht they have 20valves and the 180bhp versions have trouble keepin up with the 6a 2liter port&polished gti cam'd 16v

anyway obviously theres more to your swap than swappin over a dizzy trigger wheel, what sensors does the ecu read from other than the lamda, map and tb sensors

does your block alread have a crank trigger (id have to get one if you do)does 20vt use cam position sensor etc

clocks and immobilisers no probs, can get it deleted when its remapped

cheers

[duke_seb]

think of it this way this is what i remembered through the whole build

both the 1.8T and the 2L blocks are the same just bored different...... so if I replaced everything with 1.8T parts I can trick the ECU into thinking the car is a 1.8T

thats why im dealing coil packs and the 1.8T ECU and the complete 1.8T wiring....

im still looking for a better mount for the CPS...... I want to use the whole sensor somehow soon as i get to see the whole assembly I man finda way to mount it on the cam sprocket then everything will run the same way and all the plugs will fit and hopefully it will run like a champ

[elRey]

How did the 1.8T hydraulic tensioner work out?

[duke_seb]

Not sure yet..... I haven't got my hands on one yet ..... But believe me I'll post if I do I'm also considering getting a tensioners spacer made up for the 16v tensioners.... Something that would cup the back so it can't shift like it might on washers

my concern right now is the CPS i'm getting a whole 1.8t assembly this weekend aswell I'm going to see if there is any way at all to fabricate comthibg else who know

[duke_seb]

Got some work done today.... started by pulling the 2L harness out of the car.... actually easier then i thought but I still a paint to get under the cowl...... can someone tell me if there is an easy way to get the thing off I stuck my arms underneath it and pulled the connectors out... would have been a lot better if i could have found a way to get it off

Next step was to put the 1.8T wiring harness onto the motor.... I thought for a while the easiest thing to do would be put it in the car first but after some of the stupid things i ran into im definitely glad i did the harness in the motor first

Everything worked out good I had to lengthen the line for the AIT sensor..... I also had to swap connectors for the connector on the oil filter flange see the difference......

for those that dont know how to swap the connectors between the harnesses is a matter of looking inside the connector and pulling out the purple piece of plastic then just yank out the wire from the back......

I got everything all plugged in but im not sure what some of the connectors are for.... im sure they are things not on my 2L ..... im hoping the elrey might be able to help me out with these

Im assuming the connector in the middle is for the CPS sensor but the one on the left and the one above the CPS... im not sure what they are

and on this side the connector that is dangling on the left

I also mounted my manual boost controller

I came across a 1.8T coil pack the other day now i realise y you cant use the 1.8T packs with this set up as they are too short

[duke_seb]

The red circles are the ones i need to know for sure

[elRey]

Quote, originally posted by duke_seb »

Im assuming the connector in the middle is for the CPS sensor but the one on the left and the one above the CPS... im not sure what they are

top middle = knock sensor 1
lower left = throttle body
lower right = CPS

Quote, originally posted by duke_seb »

and on this side the connector that is dangling on the left

if you're talking about the one on the far left near your broken oil dipstick funnel, I can't tell where it's coming from. Maybe SAI kombi valve solenoid (N112). The ones in the lower center of the pic:

Gray = Crank Position Sensor
lower middle = DV N249
lower right = oil pressure

Quote, originally posted by duke_seb »

I came across a 1.8T coil pack the other day now i realise y you cant use the 1.8T packs with this set up as they are too short

I thought we had a conversation about which COPs are usable?
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2368051


Modified by elRey at 10:50 PM 11-20-2009

[elRey]

Quote, originally posted by duke_seb »

The red circles are the ones i need to know for sure

from left to right:

TB
CPS
knock 1
RPM/crank position
oil pressure
knock 2
VSS

and one you missed right above VVT: ECT

Is this harness from an automatic? I don't see a reverse light connector.
nevermind, it won't have the VSS is it was an auto harness.

edit


Modified by elRey at 10:51 PM 11-20-2009

[duke_seb]

Quote, originally posted by elRey »

I thought we had a conversation about which COPs are usable? http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2368051

I believe we did and you suggested 2.5L MKV ones.....

with the trimming they fit perfect

am i missing something?

[duke_seb]

Quote, originally posted by elRey »

Is this harness from an automatic? I don't see a reverse light connector. ]

i dont know i was sure it was from a stick... I could be wrong though

[elRey]

Quote, originally posted by duke_seb »

am i missing something?

Nah, I thought I mentioned 1.8T COPs were too short.

I edited my above posts with more concise info.

[duke_seb]

I was wondering about the reverse indicator too....... I actually had the the knock sensor plug plugged into that for a little bit cuz it fit the same....... from what i can tell i dont have any more plugs for the reverse

[duke_seb]

the ones above the VVT i plugged into the collant temp sensor

[elRey]

ECT = Engine Coolant Temp

[elRey]

Quote, originally posted by duke_seb »

I was wondering about the reverse indicator too....... I actually had the the knock sensor plug plugged into that for a little bit cuz it fit the same....... from what i can tell i dont have any more plugs for the reverse

Do you have a multimeter?

[duke_seb]

i hve access to one.... dont know how to use it though

[duke_seb]

could the one right under the number N249 be the reverse?

im wondering if its part of the harness still left in the car....

[elRey]

Quote, originally posted by duke_seb »

could the one right under the number N249 be the reverse? im wondering if its part of the harness still left in the car....

I believe it is on the other harness. So, you're good.

[duke_seb]

geez rey dont freak me out like that....lol

ok this is good .... so i have to lengthen the TB line and maybe the line for the MAP sensor....

then i get to move on to coolant lines...... I really should have labelled these cuz i dont remember for the life of me where they all came from.... same as the vacuum lines

got my ECU and cam gear and tensioner and damper coming sunday so i can get the timing going

hey rey do i need the N75 while running external or the N249 which i dont even know what if does? ... and N206 is the SAI right?

[elRey]

Quote, originally posted by duke_seb »

hey rey do i need the N75 while running external or the N249 which i dont even know what if does? ... and N206 is the SAI right?

No, you do not need the N75 or N249 (DV). You can run a mbc instead of the n75 and just run the DV straight to a vacuum line from intake mani.

N206 = VVT Variable Valve Timing which you do not have.

Now, you will need to put resistors in place of those solenoids for you ECU to adjust/save fuel trims.

What's software are you running?

[duke_seb]

ill be running unitronic 630cc file

im going to get the SAI deleted

what is this MBC?

[duke_seb]

ah little google figured it out.... Manual boost controller...... go figure i got one..... mounted the side of the head

[duke_seb]

So i need to Run resistors in the following connectors

N75
N249
N206
SAI

does 1W 330ohm sound good to you?

[ihavenoideax2]

That is usually what is run in them. I don't know if it is completely overkill to use them since they are huge but they still should work. If your getting the SAI deleted, you shouldn't need them for the N249 and the N112 valve. See if before you get it in the car, if uni will just delete all of it since you wont need the resisters in it.

Does that make any sense since I am half asleep.

[duke_seb]

which is N112... SAI?

[ihavenoideax2]

Yea, its the solenoid right next to the N249 valve. Its the combovalve controller for the SAI system.