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    Thread: Official Raceland MKV coilover review... Short Version

    1. Member xZANEx's Avatar
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      '10 TDI JSW
      08-23-2009 08:31 PM #101
      basically the concept.. both go lower than necessary, both ride great.. save yourself the $ and get ksports, rather than the b&gs.

    2. 08-23-2009 10:00 PM #102
      Over 3k on the racelands, and they still feel great... A good buy if you ask me.
      "I admit that I'm often...vexed by the behavior of my own people..." - Huey Freeman (The Boondocks)
      GTS Performance

    3. Member xZANEx's Avatar
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      '10 TDI JSW
      08-23-2009 11:34 PM #103
      same.. im up around 5000 myself.. around 600 on bags.. still no problems..

    4. 08-29-2009 06:40 PM #104
      My REVIEW:
      1) Ordered Monday, recieved today. Packaged very nicely! Coils and Shocks look great.
      2) Installation went swell. I did end up cutting the tabs on the front struts, to speed up installation process. Rears were a breeze.
      3) Vehicle responds and feels as if it was sitting on the stock setup. I am VERY Happy, on how the vehicle drives. However I am getting a clunking noise from the front end, which could be upon installation. I will have to recheck my installation and update you all about this. It sounds to be like the sway bar or the top hats on the springs making noise upon contact of bumps.
      4) Overall, I wish they go lower, but for the money, they have GOT TO BE THE BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK! Highly Recommended for the mid-average Joe modifer.
      AS FOR THE PICTURES...
      STOCK:

      With RaceLANDS: Fronts all the way down, Rears All the way down with Perch intack.


    5. Member DubRadio's Avatar
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      07 Rabbit 2dr UG
      08-31-2009 11:01 AM #105
      REVIEW:
      Well I Got mine installed this weekend. And I must say I am thouroughly impressed by the ride. I drive my car about 85 miles a day to and from work. The ride today was very nice. Not to stiff, but firm enough that alot of my body roll has been significantly diminished. The height for me is perfect, as alot of my ride consists of some pretty beat roads.
      Installation was a breeze. I was able to install without the need of removing the axel bolts. it did take time but it was well worth it to do i my self and save money. Rears were even easier, only 4 bolts on each side to do the rears.
      Overall this was definetly a great purchase
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    6. 08-31-2009 06:14 PM #106
      What is the total drop that you guys are seeing after they settle? Sounds like these would be great to lower to the point you can still use your car day to day with a family.

    7. Member DubRadio's Avatar
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      07 Rabbit 2dr UG
      09-01-2009 01:41 PM #107
      not sure, im still settleing, and I still have 1/4" front that I can adjust lower, and 1/4" on the rear perch that I can lower.
      I may take advantage of that this weekend, although I am sitting pretty squatty on the front end. I need to find a way to adjust the camber on the fronts. I reallllllly dont feel like replacing tires every 6 months.
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      90 VRT Corrado, 06 Passat 3.6 AWD, 03 Chevy Blazer Xtreme
      09-01-2009 01:58 PM #108
      Guy on golfmkv.com said Raceland said it'd drop him 1-3~3.5 inches.
      Rule for posting in Corrado Forum- BEFORE clicking 'Submit Post' button, go ahead and have someone kick you in the nuts. Only then can you click the button.....it'll hurt less when you get your response.

    9. 09-01-2009 02:00 PM #109
      My cousins car I did an install on,
      Front : All the way down -lower collar, - dead coil
      Rear : Down, nothing modified

      there is the potential for about 1/2 or more in these but I don't wanna mess with the swaybar at all.
      but look at all the meat you can chop out.
      Ryan Gravelle
      club.broke.status : flickr

    10. 09-01-2009 02:02 PM #110
      oh noes... but the load ratings
      Ryan Gravelle
      club.broke.status : flickr

    11. 09-01-2009 02:04 PM #111
      this is installed down front, 1/2" up rear

      after redoing the fronts and spinning the rears down

      I have to get a good shot with the new wheels
      Ryan Gravelle
      club.broke.status : flickr

    12. Member xZANEx's Avatar
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      '10 TDI JSW
      09-01-2009 02:19 PM #112
      i cut the bottoms off my struts, and i cut my bearings shorter [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] had a heck of a time getting the struts to go into the spindles though.. and i have the GAP strut spreader.


      Modified by xZANEx at 2:21 PM 9-1-2009

    13. 09-01-2009 02:51 PM #113
      Quote, originally posted by xZANEx »
      i cut the bottoms off my struts, and i cut my bearings shorter [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] had a heck of a time getting the struts to go into the spindles though.. and i have the GAP strut spreader.

      So did I, did you realize why...
      look at the welds on the tab that goes through the spreader area... its the size of china... I ground that extra slop off and it slid in like butter...
      I would recommend that to anyone working on these.
      You can see the "dark" area to the side of the tab, thats where I ground off.. used a stone bit.

      something in this shape.. kept the top (far right) parralel with the tab itself and ground off the excess.
      Ryan Gravelle
      club.broke.status : flickr

    14. Member xZANEx's Avatar
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      '10 TDI JSW
      09-01-2009 03:04 PM #114
      yea i used my grinder to knock the welds down during the first install.. then cut everything down when i did the bags on top

    15. Member DubRadio's Avatar
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      07 Rabbit 2dr UG
      09-01-2009 04:28 PM #115
      yup everyone has to grind down the weld. I had to,
      ShadowGLI - I was contemplating chopping the dead coil, at that height are you running into lots of rubbing?
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    16. 09-01-2009 04:42 PM #116
      Quote, originally posted by DubRadio »
      yup everyone has to grind down the weld. I had to,
      ShadowGLI - I was contemplating chopping the dead coil, at that height are you running into lots of rubbing?

      none... but thats with a 17x7.5et45 and 225/45r17 tire
      Ryan Gravelle
      club.broke.status : flickr

    17. 09-01-2009 05:09 PM #117
      i'm lookin' to install a set of these on a MK IV 20th and a MK V this weekend - any special tools that will be needed? i.e. spring compressor, impact wrench, or even wheel spacers?
      any suggestions or pointers would be greatly appreciated.
      i heard the MK IV install is more difficult than the MK V due to sway bar clearances and wheel-well restrictions---anyone know if this is true?

    18. 09-01-2009 05:13 PM #118
      Look for a DIY in the FAQ of the MK4 and MK5 forums. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    19. 09-01-2009 05:58 PM #119
      Quote, originally posted by bszakacs »
      i'm lookin' to install a set of these on a MK IV 20th and a MK V this weekend - any special tools that will be needed? i.e. spring compressor, impact wrench, or even wheel spacers?
      any suggestions or pointers would be greatly appreciated.
      i heard the MK IV install is more difficult than the MK V due to sway bar clearances and wheel-well restrictions---anyone know if this is true?

      to do it BEST...
      http://www.metalnerd.com
      Part MNXZ14 - 14 mm 12 Point Driver for the bolt that clamps the front hub to the strut.
      Part MN2122 - Specialty Double 21 & 22 mm Strut Nut Sockets for the tops of the struts (allows an allen wrench through the top to hold the strut piston in place)
      Part MN3424 - Strut Spreader Bit to unclamp the hub from the strut.. this is the only part you really MUST have, the other two are very helpful but can be done without em.
      Also don't pull your axle bolts, waste of time..
      Front :
      Prep :
      a: Remove 2 wiper arms by popping bolt caps and removing 2 13mm bolts. with gentle but firm force push and pull on the hinged portion of the wiper arm with your left arm as you hold the motor assembly/mount point secure with your right hand.
      b: remove rubber gasket seal from front edge of rain tray
      c: with firm but gentle pressure, unseat the raintray from base of windshield. Once fully disconnected carefully remove up over the windshield (it will not properly be removed from under the hood and through the engine bay.
      Once that is done the suspension removal can begin.
      1: Remove wheel
      2: disconnect brake line clip to loosen line from bracket
      3: disconnect ABS and break wear sensors (only abs on passenger side)
      4: if HID's on car, remove 10mm nut from bottom of headlight leveler
      5: using 18mm wrench remove swaybar endlink nut (may need box wrench and 6mm allen wrench (maybe 5 cant remember). Remove from mount and push aside.
      6: remove bolt from back of hub with 12pt tool and 18mm socket/box wrench
      7: insert strut spreader in back of hub and turn till fully open
      now here is where it gets tricky, you can either remove the 3 16mm bolts below the ball joint and disconnect the hub from the control arm and do some wiggling, OR if your putting in a 2+" drop, do it the ghetto but managable and fast way.
      I'll explain the fast way.
      8: using a 2nd jack (or the first jack if the front is suspended with jack stands), place the jack under the front suspension, using a 16" or so 2x4 (placed between the tie rod and the hub) put pressure up on the spring mount of the stock strut. SLOWLY jack it up until its above the hub. At that point rotate the hub toward the front of the car and SLOWLY release pressure from the strut, making sure it lowers NEXT to the hub
      9: remove 3 13mm bolts from under the rain tray and your strut is now out.
      to reinstall,
      10: mount the top bolts very loosely (1/2" or more till tight)
      11: if you are lowering it enough you should now have to lift the hub onto the strut, if not you MIGHT have to use the same "jack" technique as shows before to get clearanct to line up the hub to the new strut, once started use the jack and 2x4 under the 3 ball joint bolts to add pressure and PUSH the hub onto the strut until its 100% up.
      12: remove strut spreader
      13: Reattach the 12pt bolt and 18mm nut
      14: Reattach swaybar endlink
      15: reclip brake sensors
      16: resecure brake line
      go to otherside and repeat.
      The rears are wicket easy.
      1: Remove rear wheel
      2: put jack under control arm below spring
      3: Remove 18mm bolt on the outermost side of the control arm
      4: release pressure from jack
      5: remove stock spring
      6: Remove bolt holding bottom of strut to hub (can't remember exact size but know 13/16'' socket fits perfect too..
      7: Remove 2 16mm bolts at top of strut and remove strut.
      8: Assemble new strut to old rear top mount (don't forget the black cap)
      9: reverse above
      Happy lowering
      Ryan Gravelle
      club.broke.status : flickr

    20. Member ACEdubs's Avatar
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      09-02-2009 10:45 AM #120
      To those that have a clunking sound coming from the front strut area.
      Check the small metal cap at the top of the front strut bodies. After doing multiple installs, these caps will loosen during shipping or installation. When the cap loosens, the strut will bounce inside the housing and cause a "clunking" sound. Many guys will think it is a sway bar clunk...but it isn't. The front strust are universal and are dropped into a specific casing for individual auto applications.
      You should see small holes on top of the cap. Slide angled needle nose pliers into the holes and twist it down to tighten. Do this with the load off the strut. Jack up the front of the car.
      The pic below shows you the location of the cap.




      Modified by ACEdubs at 10:47 AM 9-2-2009
      Quote Originally Posted by Binary Star View Post
      Should've been more explicit - she likes to share me. Not the other way around....
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    21. 09-04-2009 04:52 PM #121
      I haven't had any problems yet with the racelands... really happy with the product.


      Modified by Nevaeh_Speed at 1:53 PM 9-4-2009
      "I admit that I'm often...vexed by the behavior of my own people..." - Huey Freeman (The Boondocks)
      GTS Performance

    22. Member GTi_tony's Avatar
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      2008 Passat
      09-04-2009 10:25 PM #122
      ShadowGLI, whats your measurements?

    23. 09-04-2009 11:46 PM #123
      my measurements are 23.25" on FK's... my cousins measurements are like 23.55" on Racelands.
      Ryan Gravelle
      club.broke.status : flickr

    24. Member sbvwfanatic's Avatar
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      09CW VW Rabbit w/19"BBS CKs, FK springs/shocks/struts
      09-05-2009 12:50 AM #124
      Quote, originally posted by DubRadio »
      REVIEW:
      Well I Got mine installed this weekend. And I must say I am thouroughly impressed by the ride. I drive my car about 85 miles a day to and from work. The ride today was very nice. Not to stiff, but firm enough that alot of my body roll has been significantly diminished. The height for me is perfect, as alot of my ride consists of some pretty beat roads.
      Installation was a breeze. I was able to install without the need of removing the axel bolts. it did take time but it was well worth it to do i my self and save money. Rears were even easier, only 4 bolts on each side to do the rears.
      Overall this was definetly a great purchase

      Thanks for the review, you answered every question I was about to ask. I have an 80 ml a day commute on a rough section of HWY 101 and worried about the durability.

    25. 09-05-2009 01:07 AM #125
      Quote, originally posted by ACEdubs »
      To those that have a clunking sound coming from the front strut area.
      Check the small metal cap at the top of the front strut bodies. After doing multiple installs, these caps will loosen during shipping or installation. When the cap loosens, the strut will bounce inside the housing and cause a "clunking" sound. Many guys will think it is a sway bar clunk...but it isn't. The front strust are universal and are dropped into a specific casing for individual auto applications.
      You should see small holes on top of the cap. Slide angled needle nose pliers into the holes and twist it down to tighten. Do this with the load off the strut. Jack up the front of the car.
      The pic below shows you the location of the cap.



      Modified by ACEdubs at 10:47 AM 9-2-2009

      Wow that's valuable information. I chose not to get these cause of the clunk, now I kinda wish I would have.

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