#7561
You could do what I did. Remove the b pillar cover and rear knee board on both sides. Find the seatbelt motor, unplug it. Then find the seatbelt wire, cut it, then move the seatbelts back to the rear position by hand.
Then just continue using the failsafe ones. that's cheaper than Canadian / euro spec swap.
sent from my omni tool.
-TLJ
#7562
Women are gentle and soft, but they hit things...
20v AEB Corrado Build thread.
Parting a B4 ABA Passat?
#7564
So the dowells came loose from my autotech flywheel and carved a nice slice into my bellhousing. Furthermore, my pressure plate bolts ended up coming loose.
Is this a common flywheel problem that autotech will cover or am i hooped?
(Corrado VR6)
Hondas are pretty sick.....just saying.
#7565
[B] INSTAGRAM: europeein
Facebook: facebook.com/addmichael
#7566
Ooooooooooook.....passenger door is closed. Outside door handle doesnt work. Inside door handle doesnt work. How do i get the damn door open, or at least the door card off , so i can fix whatevers wrong?
#7567
#7568
You may be able to get the window down to fish something in there to open it, that is if your window works, gotta fix that sorta stuff asap, always anticipate the next break and double up on things like doors. Your other alternative is to pull every screw you can gain access to, remove them and pull on the card, probably destroying it in the process, just hope you are missing some side screws
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#7569
I was able to get a brand new set of OE wires for the SLC for cheap, how do they compare to Bosch??
Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2
[B] INSTAGRAM: europeein
Facebook: facebook.com/addmichael
#7570
#7571
My Car: 1991 Corrado G60 14X,XXX Auto
What's up guys, so first I'm NOT here for people to tell me to switch to manual, I have everything for a 5 speed swap and will do it buy I can't at the moment. But my question and request is has anybody dealt with a auto trans just stop working. I'll start out by saying what happened when it quit. I was leaving work and crossing the road. I couldn't make it all the way across so just got into the middle lane. There was a small opening so I gassed it it took off and just as I got into the middlelane it just revved real high and then nothing was there.. The car still runs just fine it just won't move. At first I thought it was a axle since I was turning at the time but that doesn't seem to be the problem. I jacked it up yesterday and put it on jack stands and when you put it in drive absolutely nothing happens. The wheels don't turn and it doesn't even sound like the tranny is going into gear when put in drive, reverse, or any gears. I had my wife go threw the gears while I watched and the selector is moving. And when I spin the wheels manually it seems like the trans/gears are ok because they spin opposite of each other. So I'm stumped!! So if someone can please help I would REALLY APPRICIATE IT!! Could it be out of fluid, a broken cable or piece of linkage, or a sensor?? I plan on doing the 5 speed swap but can't right now since this is my daily. But if it's a blown tranny or something then I guess I'll have to start. Also my stepdad who only works on American cars said he thinks it might be the "automatic transmission pump." Is that a possibility?? I have a bentley for help so if anybody can just give me some pointers that would help.
Thanks in advance and really hope someone can help. Feel free to PM me for more details.
Thanks,
David
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Last edited by krazy4dubz; 10-01-2012 at 10:46 AM.
I Love It When A Plan Come's Together...![]()
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SpoonFed Tuning <<<<< If you own a Corrado click here!!
My Build Thread
NW CorradoClub
#7573
I have a million answers to this page (which should be stickied LOUISE!!!!!!!! Get off your ass and make this up top damnit!)
:stepping off soapbox:
Feel free (to those posting on THIS page) to call/text me at
+.001.267.337.0976
-Michael
#7575
I just bought my Corrado g60 and it has 61164 miles on it. I hear this is a pretty rare car and I would like to keep it running. Right now everything works and it looks like factory new. The only thing is the oil light flashes and a beeper goes off with it. This happens like one day every 10 days and lasts almost all day. I took it to the garage and am being told there is plenty of oil pressure but not told how much "plenty" means. I would like to know how much is plenty. I have a new pressure switch to go on the filter adapter if needed but dont want to do anything until i know how much pressure "plenty" actually is.
#7577
sounds like a torque convertor issue to me like the ears that seat in the pump broke off or something i say take the trans out and check the convertor. best o luck to ya
Last edited by 90corradog60w/61k; 10-03-2012 at 01:25 AM.
#7578
Thanks for your help man. I will defietly look into that. Also you don't think it could be any sort of electrical issue. I'm gonna check the fluid level to but if it's low or empty would would that make the care not drive? I hope its something easy but with my luck it won't be... Again thanks for your help.
David
I Love It When A Plan Come's Together...![]()
![]()
SpoonFed Tuning <<<<< If you own a Corrado click here!!
My Build Thread
NW CorradoClub
#7579
I'm getting mixed answers on the fitament of a vr lower grill on a g...can anyone confirm either? I know its a diff part number....anyway
#7580
Why would you want it? The slats aren't all open on the vr version.
"Sense is something you can't even make sense of until you've been to the future, and spent time there..."
#7582
I have recently converted to the MK4 rear calipers, and swapped all brake lines to steel braided lines. I have also flushed 3 liters of brake fluid through the system with a ezibleeder just to be sure that there is no air left.
But now when i park my car with the e-brake on the ABS light either stays on or come on when i drive. I now suspect that the rear proportioning valve might be sticking, am i right? And when the ABS is working, i can also feel that the ABS is kicking in when it shouldnt (very light braking in slow speed etc) And when it does that the pedal gets significantly harder to press down...
Before i swapped the rear calipers the ABS worked just fine, but then again i have not parked the car with e-brake on the last 4 months because the brakes would stick when releasing e-brake...
Update: I was driving my corrado earlier this day, and when reversing up my driveway i can hear that the rear brakes are slightly sticking and makes a whining/grinding noise. Now i really suspect that the rear proportioning valve are bad because i have brand new calipers. Is there any other way that i can check if it really is failing? And can a bad rear proportioning valve make the ABS system shut off because of higher pressure than normal?
#7583
UPDATE: First thanks to all who added their two cents to my issue.
Okay, temp sensor is switched out and i'm doing a quick oil change while i had the car up. Plugs, wires, and fuel pump sensor is going in just a few (taking a snack break). Hopefully I'll have here back running today. If so i'll drive it the rest of the day and see what happens.
Oh i'm going to clean the ISV valve also. Any body know a thread that shows where it lives? Sorry this is my first VR6 so i'm still learning.![]()
'10 Frontier Crew Cab 4x4 - daily kid hauler
'04 GLI - sold
'08 Passat Wagon - traded
'94 Corrado SLC VRT Sherry Red Widebody
'96 D21 Hardbody, Bagged and Dropped scrapper
#7584
Quick someone tell me what the gap should be for NGK 7E plugs going in my VR6 Stage 1 Kinetics setup? Its non IC right now and only set at 6lbs of boost.
....yes, i'm going to use the search function now, but figure one you guys had it memorized.
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'10 Frontier Crew Cab 4x4 - daily kid hauler
'04 GLI - sold
'08 Passat Wagon - traded
'94 Corrado SLC VRT Sherry Red Widebody
'96 D21 Hardbody, Bagged and Dropped scrapper
#7585
This may be a noob/retard inquiry, but here goes..... 92 Corrado SLC
The turn signals or 4-way flashers do not work. The relay and the fuse has been replaced. Any ideas??
#7586
So I am planning to change the front ball joints on the rado in a couple of weeks since one of them went bad. This will be my first time trying this and from what I have read it shouldn't be too hard.
I was wondering if anybody recommends replacing the control arms aswell? not sure if I should just replace the bushings or get the complete arms or if I should even mess with that?
Just looking for input thanks!
Last edited by onavarro8; 10-07-2012 at 11:08 PM.
Nice cars turn heads...Corrados break necks!
#7587
Does the sleeve that goes between the rear control arm bushing and the bolt serve any purpose? Is it a necessary part?
Part in question: Rear Control Arm Bushing Sleeve
#7588
Use the emergency latches, located in the belts "closed" position on the "B" pillar, they fold out and belts can be used.
Sounds like the stretch bolts on the pressure plate came loose, and vibrated the dowell pins out. make sure they torque properly on reassembly.
Not if using. :R32 control arm bushings. I have never used that sleeve on any ca bushing.
#7590
'10 Frontier Crew Cab 4x4 - daily kid hauler
'04 GLI - sold
'08 Passat Wagon - traded
'94 Corrado SLC VRT Sherry Red Widebody
'96 D21 Hardbody, Bagged and Dropped scrapper
#7591
#7592
#7593
Im trying to remove the shifting linkage off my manual trans and place it on my replacement trans. The part sits on top of the trans and looks like this one.
Heres the situation I removed the linkage and taken out the 2 bolts that hold the unit in place in the trans. I started pulling the unit/part out and it stops half way. It seems as if the shaft is connected in some way.
Question is how do I get this part out and what is holding it up?
There is 2 bolts and a plate on the bottom of the trans. Is there something I need to disconnect there?
Your help is appreciated.![]()
#7594
Reinstall it, amd make sure the trans is in neutral before you remove it,. If in neutral, it should come out with a slight twist.
#7595
Thanks DUBZAK I was able to get it out. The problem was I didn't pull on it hard enough. I lifted on it till the trans came off the ground and popped right out. Thanks again![]()