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    Thread: New Guys: Ask The Experts Thread.

    1. Member TheLateJetta's Avatar
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      09-21-2012 03:12 AM #7561
      Quote Originally Posted by mattsgota325i View Post
      anyone?
      You could do what I did. Remove the b pillar cover and rear knee board on both sides. Find the seatbelt motor, unplug it. Then find the seatbelt wire, cut it, then move the seatbelts back to the rear position by hand.
      Then just continue using the failsafe ones. that's cheaper than Canadian / euro spec swap.

      sent from my omni tool.
      -TLJ

    2. Member turtledub's Avatar
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      09-21-2012 09:36 AM #7562
      Quote Originally Posted by turtledub View Post
      Flame suit on.

      I picked up a set of sawblades recently. They are the 8.5 and 9.5 inch set up. The car is currently 4x100. I have 5x100 adapters but I do not want to go through the hassle of changing the car over to 5x100. What would be a good adapter set up to go with as far as thickness? I am trying to avoid poke as much as possible. Also I am hoping for minimal body work. Rolling the fenders is about as far as I want to go.

      I searched but none of the threads had the adapter specs.
      Bump for a new page.
      Women are gentle and soft, but they hit things...

      20v AEB Corrado Build thread.
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    3. Member Sr. Karmann's Avatar
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      91 Corrado 2.0l 16v on MS3X, Parked like Jurassic... 83 Cabby 1.8l 16v... 88 Powerplay XLT-185
      09-21-2012 10:42 AM #7563
      Quote Originally Posted by turtledub View Post
      Bump for a new page.
      Good luck trying to accomplish what you said with sawblades, your best bet would be to convert your hubs and rotors to match the pattern. If you look thru the wheel, offset, your mom's horoscope thread, you may find some more valuable info there.
      Quote Originally Posted by crazynorweegian View Post
      Good luck, might want to get vaccinated for "while-I-am-in-there" syndrome.
      tek-euro.com SpoonFedTuning

      my Corrado's specs on corrado-database / My Corrado Build Thread / My Cabby Build Thread / My Boat Build: 18' Powerplay w/5.7l V8

    4. Member
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      1993 VW Corrado VR6
      09-24-2012 12:58 AM #7564
      So the dowells came loose from my autotech flywheel and carved a nice slice into my bellhousing. Furthermore, my pressure plate bolts ended up coming loose.

      Is this a common flywheel problem that autotech will cover or am i hooped?

      (Corrado VR6)
      Hondas are pretty sick.....just saying.

    5. Member HavokRuels's Avatar
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      09-24-2012 07:54 PM #7565
      Quote Originally Posted by Das.Rado View Post
      So the dowells came loose from my autotech flywheel and carved a nice slice into my bellhousing. Furthermore, my pressure plate bolts ended up coming loose.

      Is this a common flywheel problem that autotech will cover or am i hooped?

      (Corrado VR6)
      Seems kind of odd??


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    6. Semi-n00b sisca's Avatar
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      09-25-2012 04:25 AM #7566
      Ooooooooooook.....passenger door is closed. Outside door handle doesnt work. Inside door handle doesnt work. How do i get the damn door open, or at least the door card off , so i can fix whatevers wrong?

    7. Member RedYellowWhite's Avatar
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      09-25-2012 10:03 AM #7567
      Quote Originally Posted by sisca View Post
      Ooooooooooook.....passenger door is closed. Outside door handle doesnt work. Inside door handle doesnt work. How do i get the damn door open, or at least the door card off , so i can fix whatevers wrong?
      Oh sh!t I hope you don't have to rip the door card apart...


      Quote Originally Posted by Jam66es View Post
      I'm trying to fit a civic intake I stole last night onto my G60.

      [img]http://www.**********/test5.jpg[/img]
      ^^Spam much???
      Quote Originally Posted by dogger View Post
      ... (Corrado) might be the greatest collection of bad VW ideas ever put into one car.
      My Corrado (sort of) build thread / On Database
      My MK1 build thread
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    8. Member Sr. Karmann's Avatar
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      09-25-2012 10:07 AM #7568
      Quote Originally Posted by sisca View Post
      Ooooooooooook.....passenger door is closed. Outside door handle doesnt work. Inside door handle doesnt work. How do i get the damn door open, or at least the door card off , so i can fix whatevers wrong?
      You may be able to get the window down to fish something in there to open it, that is if your window works, gotta fix that sorta stuff asap, always anticipate the next break and double up on things like doors. Your other alternative is to pull every screw you can gain access to, remove them and pull on the card, probably destroying it in the process, just hope you are missing some side screws

      Quote Originally Posted by RedYellowWhite View Post
      ^^Spam much???
      Quote Originally Posted by crazynorweegian View Post
      Good luck, might want to get vaccinated for "while-I-am-in-there" syndrome.
      tek-euro.com SpoonFedTuning

      my Corrado's specs on corrado-database / My Corrado Build Thread / My Cabby Build Thread / My Boat Build: 18' Powerplay w/5.7l V8

    9. Member HavokRuels's Avatar
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      09-25-2012 12:47 PM #7569
      I was able to get a brand new set of OE wires for the SLC for cheap, how do they compare to Bosch??

      Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2
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    10. Member cata's Avatar
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      09-25-2012 01:23 PM #7570
      Quote Originally Posted by Das.Rado View Post
      So the dowells came loose from my autotech flywheel and carved a nice slice into my bellhousing. Furthermore, my pressure plate bolts ended up coming loose.
      (Corrado VR6)
      Brutal Look at the bottom of page 215, maybe you can PM him and get some more info. Share your findings please.

    11. Member krazy4dubz's Avatar
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      10-01-2012 11:43 AM #7571
      My Car: 1991 Corrado G60 14X,XXX Auto

      What's up guys, so first I'm NOT here for people to tell me to switch to manual, I have everything for a 5 speed swap and will do it buy I can't at the moment. But my question and request is has anybody dealt with a auto trans just stop working. I'll start out by saying what happened when it quit. I was leaving work and crossing the road. I couldn't make it all the way across so just got into the middle lane. There was a small opening so I gassed it it took off and just as I got into the middlelane it just revved real high and then nothing was there.. The car still runs just fine it just won't move. At first I thought it was a axle since I was turning at the time but that doesn't seem to be the problem. I jacked it up yesterday and put it on jack stands and when you put it in drive absolutely nothing happens. The wheels don't turn and it doesn't even sound like the tranny is going into gear when put in drive, reverse, or any gears. I had my wife go threw the gears while I watched and the selector is moving. And when I spin the wheels manually it seems like the trans/gears are ok because they spin opposite of each other. So I'm stumped!! So if someone can please help I would REALLY APPRICIATE IT!! Could it be out of fluid, a broken cable or piece of linkage, or a sensor?? I plan on doing the 5 speed swap but can't right now since this is my daily. But if it's a blown tranny or something then I guess I'll have to start. Also my stepdad who only works on American cars said he thinks it might be the "automatic transmission pump." Is that a possibility?? I have a bentley for help so if anybody can just give me some pointers that would help.

      Thanks in advance and really hope someone can help. Feel free to PM me for more details.

      Thanks,

      David
      Last edited by krazy4dubz; 10-01-2012 at 11:46 AM.
      Quote Originally Posted by RedYellowWhite View Post
      Rule no.1 for Corrado-owners wifes worldwide: "Never touch the Corrado"
      I Love It When A Plan Come's Together...
      SpoonFed Tuning <<<<< If you own a Corrado click here!!
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      10-02-2012 09:52 PM #7572
      vr bumper grill fit a g??

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      Everything you could imagine basically
      10-03-2012 02:01 AM #7573
      I have a million answers to this page (which should be stickied LOUISE!!!!!!!! Get off your ass and make this up top damnit!)

      :stepping off soapbox:

      Feel free (to those posting on THIS page) to call/text me at


      +.001.267.337.0976

      -Michael
      Turbos, Timepieces and Firearms.

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      10-03-2012 02:02 AM #7574
      Quote Originally Posted by IMWALKIN View Post
      vr bumper grill fit a g??
      TAbs are diff, but is it possible easily? Yes.

      As long as you know there is a 16mm dif between the two, fogs and turns are dif, AND hood will be misaligned no matter how hard you try.

      Food for thought.......

      -Michael
      Last edited by Noobercorn; 10-03-2012 at 02:05 AM.
      Turbos, Timepieces and Firearms.

    15. 10-03-2012 02:10 AM #7575
      I just bought my Corrado g60 and it has 61164 miles on it. I hear this is a pretty rare car and I would like to keep it running. Right now everything works and it looks like factory new. The only thing is the oil light flashes and a beeper goes off with it. This happens like one day every 10 days and lasts almost all day. I took it to the garage and am being told there is plenty of oil pressure but not told how much "plenty" means. I would like to know how much is plenty. I have a new pressure switch to go on the filter adapter if needed but dont want to do anything until i know how much pressure "plenty" actually is.

    16. Member JamesS's Avatar
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      10-03-2012 02:12 AM #7576
      Quote Originally Posted by Noobercorn View Post
      TAbs are diff, but is it possible easily? Yes.

      As long as you know there is a 16mm dif between the two, fogs and turns are dif, AND hood will be misaligned no matter how hard you try.

      Food for thought.......

      -Michael
      ???

      I think he is talking about the lower bumper grill

      For bumper grills the later will fit from what I have read.
      Last edited by JamesS; 10-03-2012 at 02:14 AM.

    17. 10-03-2012 02:14 AM #7577
      sounds like a torque convertor issue to me like the ears that seat in the pump broke off or something i say take the trans out and check the convertor. best o luck to ya
      Last edited by 90corradog60w/61k; 10-03-2012 at 02:25 AM.

    18. Member krazy4dubz's Avatar
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      10-03-2012 03:23 PM #7578
      Quote Originally Posted by 90corradog60w/61k View Post
      sounds like a torque convertor issue to me like the ears that seat in the pump broke off or something i say take the trans out and check the convertor. best o luck to ya
      Thanks for your help man. I will defietly look into that. Also you don't think it could be any sort of electrical issue. I'm gonna check the fluid level to but if it's low or empty would would that make the care not drive? I hope its something easy but with my luck it won't be... Again thanks for your help.

      David
      Quote Originally Posted by RedYellowWhite View Post
      Rule no.1 for Corrado-owners wifes worldwide: "Never touch the Corrado"
      I Love It When A Plan Come's Together...
      SpoonFed Tuning <<<<< If you own a Corrado click here!!
      My Build Thread
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      10-03-2012 04:34 PM #7579
      I'm getting mixed answers on the fitament of a vr lower grill on a g...can anyone confirm either? I know its a diff part number....anyway

    20. Member clintg60-16v's Avatar
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      10-03-2012 05:48 PM #7580
      Why would you want it? The slats aren't all open on the vr version.
      "Sense is something you can't even make sense of until you've been to the future, and spent time there..."

    21. Member HavokRuels's Avatar
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      10-03-2012 07:11 PM #7581
      Quote Originally Posted by krazy4dubz View Post
      Thanks for your help man. I will defietly look into that. Also you don't think it could be any sort of electrical issue. I'm gonna check the fluid level to but if it's low or empty would would that make the care not drive? I hope its something easy but with my luck it won't be... Again thanks for your help.

      David
      Well if its an TCM issue, I've got on lying around


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      10-06-2012 03:58 AM #7582
      I have recently converted to the MK4 rear calipers, and swapped all brake lines to steel braided lines. I have also flushed 3 liters of brake fluid through the system with a ezibleeder just to be sure that there is no air left.

      But now when i park my car with the e-brake on the ABS light either stays on or come on when i drive. I now suspect that the rear proportioning valve might be sticking, am i right? And when the ABS is working, i can also feel that the ABS is kicking in when it shouldnt (very light braking in slow speed etc) And when it does that the pedal gets significantly harder to press down...

      Before i swapped the rear calipers the ABS worked just fine, but then again i have not parked the car with e-brake on the last 4 months because the brakes would stick when releasing e-brake...

      Update: I was driving my corrado earlier this day, and when reversing up my driveway i can hear that the rear brakes are slightly sticking and makes a whining/grinding noise. Now i really suspect that the rear proportioning valve are bad because i have brand new calipers. Is there any other way that i can check if it really is failing? And can a bad rear proportioning valve make the ABS system shut off because of higher pressure than normal?
      Last edited by vwraaner; 10-06-2012 at 01:35 PM.
      Quote Originally Posted by DUBZAK View Post
      I'd rather push my broken, on fire, blown up VW than ever drive a Honda.

    23. Member Macks04GLI's Avatar
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      10-06-2012 03:32 PM #7583
      Quote Originally Posted by Macks04GLI View Post
      Still at this fellas. School and work have kept me from doing much work on her. I began stripping stuff off to get to the alternator when a friend of mine who own a car audio store mentioned it could be the alternator ground.

      We I check the grown it and doesn't look corroded or loose. I realize the O ring type connector could expand under the heat of the engine. He thought this might be happening and the reason why after sitting for a while she fires and drives. The ground had time to cool down.

      Thoughts????

      I've had the following issues suggested to me:

      - alternator
      - alt ground
      - coil pack
      - fuel pump relay
      - temp sensors
      - plugs
      - plug wires

      So before I sell a kidney to pay to replace all that, I'm looking for some guidance.
      Quote Originally Posted by TheLateJetta View Post

      Before I even address these other suggestions I have to ask a question.
      Did you replace the blue cap temp sensor in the main coolant flange that is in the front of the engine bay on the drivers side?

      This temp sensor has everything to do with fuel mixture and a faulty one is a very easy way to cause an Idle fault. I keep a spare in my tool kit in the trunk of my Corrado because
      A. they are VERY easy to swap out.
      B. They go bad when you aren’t looking.
      Click here, buy 2.
      Corrado Coolant temp sensors

      Next i would say take off your ISV and buy a bottle of CRC MAF sensor cleaner and blast all the crap out of it.


      Now to your points about those other things..
      - alternator (Sure that would cause a bad idle.... but you'd be draining your battery too...) No
      - alt ground ( Sure also but you already looked at that)
      - coil pack (yeah coil pack could be it but I feel like a bad one would do it all the time not 1 HR in)
      - fuel pump relay ( IDK, DUBZAK might have a better idea on this on this.
      - temp sensors (my money is on this being the issue)
      - plugs (It is never a bad idea to put in new plugs.) 8.50/ plug on German Autoparts
      - plug wires (funny story I had a broken plug wire misfiring and arcing onto the sidewall of the intake. I doubt this is your issue.


      TL;DR: I'm going to guess your issue is one of the following.
      1. temp sensor
      2. ISV (idle stabilizer valve)
      3. Coilpack.... Maybe.

      Change the temp sensor, clean the ISV. Then let us know what happened. If you want to be like me and become Anal, throw new sparkplugs at it for giggles.

      GL
      Quote Originally Posted by Macks04GLI View Post
      THANKS! I haven't done the plugs yet, but they will get done. And plug wires replaced also.

      I have read your reply a few times..and will prob read it a few more. Many thanks. I'll report back soon.
      Quote Originally Posted by TheLateJetta View Post
      Swap out the Blue temp sensor first.
      If that does the trick and the car runs fine, dont do anything else.

      If it doenst work, or works a little bit better. Then clean the ISV.

      Then stop and let us know what happens before you spend $50 on plugs and like 80 on wires.

      Good luck. Your bently book should have diagrams on how to locate the sensors and the ISV if you havent already
      Quote Originally Posted by Macks04GLI View Post
      Will do. Have Bentley will research.

      Since I just acquired the car, I think I'll do the plug anyway. I didn't get a maintenance log with the car so I need to establish a baseline. I plan on keeping her in the collection for a while.


      Thanks for the advice and the direction. I'm ordering sensors and plugs today.
      UPDATE: First thanks to all who added their two cents to my issue.

      Okay, temp sensor is switched out and i'm doing a quick oil change while i had the car up. Plugs, wires, and fuel pump sensor is going in just a few (taking a snack break). Hopefully I'll have here back running today. If so i'll drive it the rest of the day and see what happens.

      Oh i'm going to clean the ISV valve also. Any body know a thread that shows where it lives? Sorry this is my first VR6 so i'm still learning.
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    24. Member Macks04GLI's Avatar
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      10-06-2012 07:01 PM #7584
      Quick someone tell me what the gap should be for NGK 7E plugs going in my VR6 Stage 1 Kinetics setup? Its non IC right now and only set at 6lbs of boost.

      ....yes, i'm going to use the search function now, but figure one you guys had it memorized.

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    25. Member jamm585's Avatar
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      10-06-2012 08:01 PM #7585
      This may be a noob/retard inquiry, but here goes..... 92 Corrado SLC

      The turn signals or 4-way flashers do not work. The relay and the fuse has been replaced. Any ideas??

    26. Member onavarro8's Avatar
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      10-07-2012 01:36 AM #7586
      So I am planning to change the front ball joints on the rado in a couple of weeks since one of them went bad. This will be my first time trying this and from what I have read it shouldn't be too hard.

      I was wondering if anybody recommends replacing the control arms aswell? not sure if I should just replace the bushings or get the complete arms or if I should even mess with that?
      Just looking for input thanks!
      Last edited by onavarro8; 10-08-2012 at 12:08 AM.
      Nice cars turn heads...Corrados break necks!

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      10-07-2012 06:18 PM #7587
      Does the sleeve that goes between the rear control arm bushing and the bolt serve any purpose? Is it a necessary part?

      Part in question: Rear Control Arm Bushing Sleeve

    28. Member DUBZAK's Avatar
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      10-07-2012 06:49 PM #7588
      Quote Originally Posted by mattsgota325i View Post
      anyone?
      Use the emergency latches, located in the belts "closed" position on the "B" pillar, they fold out and belts can be used.

      Quote Originally Posted by Das.Rado View Post
      So the dowells came loose from my autotech flywheel and carved a nice slice into my bellhousing. Furthermore, my pressure plate bolts ended up coming loose.

      Is this a common flywheel problem that autotech will cover or am i hooped?

      (Corrado VR6)
      Sounds like the stretch bolts on the pressure plate came loose, and vibrated the dowell pins out. make sure they torque properly on reassembly.


      Quote Originally Posted by MrBland View Post
      Does the sleeve that goes between the rear control arm bushing and the bolt serve any purpose? Is it a necessary part?

      Part in question: Rear Control Arm Bushing Sleeve
      Not if using. :R32 control arm bushings. I have never used that sleeve on any ca bushing.
      |Corrado SLC 2.9LVR6|Corrado Keyless Entry | A8 "Grape Ape" | SPOONFEDTUNING |FOURSEASONTUNING|DUBNUTZ|
      Quote Originally Posted by pileofredparts View Post
      Do you guys remember the time that Ryan kid started mixing and matching rods and end caps and then his motor wouldnt turn over? I do

    29. Member HavokRuels's Avatar
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      10-07-2012 08:54 PM #7589
      Quote Originally Posted by Macks04GLI View Post
      UPDATE: First thanks to all who added their two cents to my issue.

      Okay, temp sensor is switched out and i'm doing a quick oil change while i had the car up. Plugs, wires, and fuel pump sensor is going in just a few (taking a snack break). Hopefully I'll have here back running today. If so i'll drive it the rest of the day and see what happens.

      Oh i'm going to clean the ISV valve also. Any body know a thread that shows where it lives? Sorry this is my first VR6 so i'm still learning.
      Isv is located to the right of the tb under the engine cover. Follow the hose coming off of the back side of the intake elbow, it ends at the isv


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    30. Member Macks04GLI's Avatar
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      10-08-2012 08:56 AM #7590
      Quote Originally Posted by Macks04GLI View Post
      Quick someone tell me what the gap should be for NGK 7E plugs going in my VR6 Stage 1 Kinetics setup? Its non IC right now and only set at 6lbs of boost.

      ....yes, i'm going to use the search function now, but figure one you guys had it memorized.

      Okay searched and searched and it looks like .028 is the recommended gap with 18lbs of torque on the tighten.
      '12 Titan "Heavy Metal" Crew Cab 4x4 - daily kid hauler
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      10-08-2012 12:26 PM #7591
      Quote Originally Posted by vwraaner View Post
      I have recently converted to the MK4 rear calipers, and swapped all brake lines to steel braided lines. I have also flushed 3 liters of brake fluid through the system with a ezibleeder just to be sure that there is no air left.

      But now when i park my car with the e-brake on the ABS light either stays on or come on when i drive. I now suspect that the rear proportioning valve might be sticking? And when the ABS is working, i can also feel that the ABS is kicking in when it shouldnt (very light braking in slow speed etc) And when it does that the pedal gets significantly harder to press down...

      Before i swapped the rear calipers the ABS worked just fine, but then again i have not parked the car with e-brake on the last 4 months because the brakes would stick when releasing e-brake...

      Update: I was driving my corrado earlier this day, and when reversing up my driveway i can hear that the rear brakes are slightly sticking and makes a whining/grinding noise. Now i really suspect that the rear proportioning valve are bad because i have brand new calipers. Is there any other way that i can check if it really is failing? And can a bad rear proportioning valve make the ABS system shut off because of higher pressure than normal?
      Bumping this, winter is knocking at the door and i seriously need the ABS to work soon...
      Quote Originally Posted by DUBZAK View Post
      I'd rather push my broken, on fire, blown up VW than ever drive a Honda.

    32. Member DUBZAK's Avatar
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      10-08-2012 02:04 PM #7592
      Quote Originally Posted by vwraaner View Post
      Bumping this, winter is knocking at the door and i seriously need the ABS to work soon...
      Pull the rotors and check condition of the abs rings on the rear rotors. Also, scan the ABS for faults.
      |Corrado SLC 2.9LVR6|Corrado Keyless Entry | A8 "Grape Ape" | SPOONFEDTUNING |FOURSEASONTUNING|DUBNUTZ|
      Quote Originally Posted by pileofredparts View Post
      Do you guys remember the time that Ryan kid started mixing and matching rods and end caps and then his motor wouldnt turn over? I do

    33. 10-08-2012 06:03 PM #7593
      Im trying to remove the shifting linkage off my manual trans and place it on my replacement trans. The part sits on top of the trans and looks like this one.



      Heres the situation I removed the linkage and taken out the 2 bolts that hold the unit in place in the trans. I started pulling the unit/part out and it stops half way. It seems as if the shaft is connected in some way.
      Question is how do I get this part out and what is holding it up?

      There is 2 bolts and a plate on the bottom of the trans. Is there something I need to disconnect there?

      Your help is appreciated.

    34. Member DUBZAK's Avatar
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      10-08-2012 06:34 PM #7594
      Reinstall it, amd make sure the trans is in neutral before you remove it,. If in neutral, it should come out with a slight twist.
      |Corrado SLC 2.9LVR6|Corrado Keyless Entry | A8 "Grape Ape" | SPOONFEDTUNING |FOURSEASONTUNING|DUBNUTZ|
      Quote Originally Posted by pileofredparts View Post
      Do you guys remember the time that Ryan kid started mixing and matching rods and end caps and then his motor wouldnt turn over? I do

    35. 10-08-2012 08:26 PM #7595
      Thanks DUBZAK I was able to get it out. The problem was I didn't pull on it hard enough. I lifted on it till the trans came off the ground and popped right out. Thanks again

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