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    Thread: New Guys: Ask The Experts Thread.

    1. Member JamesS's Avatar
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      91 JDM Corrado, 98 Subaru Legacy
      10-03-2012 01:12 AM #7576
      Quote Originally Posted by Noobercorn View Post
      TAbs are diff, but is it possible easily? Yes.

      As long as you know there is a 16mm dif between the two, fogs and turns are dif, AND hood will be misaligned no matter how hard you try.

      Food for thought.......

      -Michael
      ???

      I think he is talking about the lower bumper grill

      For bumper grills the later will fit from what I have read.
      Last edited by JamesS; 10-03-2012 at 01:14 AM.

    2. 10-03-2012 01:14 AM #7577
      sounds like a torque convertor issue to me like the ears that seat in the pump broke off or something i say take the trans out and check the convertor. best o luck to ya
      Last edited by 90corradog60w/61k; 10-03-2012 at 01:25 AM.

    3. Member krazy4dubz's Avatar
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      86 GTi 16v, 78 Rabbit 16v, 91 Passat VR6, 86 GTi VR6, 91 Corrado G60 (Current)
      10-03-2012 02:23 PM #7578
      Quote Originally Posted by 90corradog60w/61k View Post
      sounds like a torque convertor issue to me like the ears that seat in the pump broke off or something i say take the trans out and check the convertor. best o luck to ya
      Thanks for your help man. I will defietly look into that. Also you don't think it could be any sort of electrical issue. I'm gonna check the fluid level to but if it's low or empty would would that make the care not drive? I hope its something easy but with my luck it won't be... Again thanks for your help.

      David
      Quote Originally Posted by RedYellowWhite View Post
      Rule no.1 for Corrado-owners wifes worldwide: "Never touch the Corrado"
      I Love It When A Plan Come's Together...
      SpoonFed Tuning <<<<< If you own a Corrado click here!!
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      CPNW (Corrado's of Pacific Northwest) GROUP PAGE

    4. Member
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      10-03-2012 03:34 PM #7579
      I'm getting mixed answers on the fitament of a vr lower grill on a g...can anyone confirm either? I know its a diff part number....anyway

    5. Member clintg60-16v's Avatar
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      10-03-2012 04:48 PM #7580
      Why would you want it? The slats aren't all open on the vr version.
      "Sense is something you can't even make sense of until you've been to the future, and spent time there..."

    6. Member HavokRuels's Avatar
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      10-03-2012 06:11 PM #7581
      Quote Originally Posted by krazy4dubz View Post
      Thanks for your help man. I will defietly look into that. Also you don't think it could be any sort of electrical issue. I'm gonna check the fluid level to but if it's low or empty would would that make the care not drive? I hope its something easy but with my luck it won't be... Again thanks for your help.

      David
      Well if its an TCM issue, I've got on lying around


      Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad
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    7. Member
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      10-06-2012 02:58 AM #7582
      I have recently converted to the MK4 rear calipers, and swapped all brake lines to steel braided lines. I have also flushed 3 liters of brake fluid through the system with a ezibleeder just to be sure that there is no air left.

      But now when i park my car with the e-brake on the ABS light either stays on or come on when i drive. I now suspect that the rear proportioning valve might be sticking, am i right? And when the ABS is working, i can also feel that the ABS is kicking in when it shouldnt (very light braking in slow speed etc) And when it does that the pedal gets significantly harder to press down...

      Before i swapped the rear calipers the ABS worked just fine, but then again i have not parked the car with e-brake on the last 4 months because the brakes would stick when releasing e-brake...

      Update: I was driving my corrado earlier this day, and when reversing up my driveway i can hear that the rear brakes are slightly sticking and makes a whining/grinding noise. Now i really suspect that the rear proportioning valve are bad because i have brand new calipers. Is there any other way that i can check if it really is failing? And can a bad rear proportioning valve make the ABS system shut off because of higher pressure than normal?
      Last edited by vwraaner; 10-06-2012 at 12:35 PM.
      Quote Originally Posted by DUBZAK View Post
      I'd rather push my broken, on fire, blown up VW than ever drive a Honda.

    8. Member Macks04GLI's Avatar
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      10-06-2012 02:32 PM #7583
      Quote Originally Posted by Macks04GLI View Post
      Still at this fellas. School and work have kept me from doing much work on her. I began stripping stuff off to get to the alternator when a friend of mine who own a car audio store mentioned it could be the alternator ground.

      We I check the grown it and doesn't look corroded or loose. I realize the O ring type connector could expand under the heat of the engine. He thought this might be happening and the reason why after sitting for a while she fires and drives. The ground had time to cool down.

      Thoughts????

      I've had the following issues suggested to me:

      - alternator
      - alt ground
      - coil pack
      - fuel pump relay
      - temp sensors
      - plugs
      - plug wires

      So before I sell a kidney to pay to replace all that, I'm looking for some guidance.
      Quote Originally Posted by TheLateJetta View Post

      Before I even address these other suggestions I have to ask a question.
      Did you replace the blue cap temp sensor in the main coolant flange that is in the front of the engine bay on the drivers side?

      This temp sensor has everything to do with fuel mixture and a faulty one is a very easy way to cause an Idle fault. I keep a spare in my tool kit in the trunk of my Corrado because
      A. they are VERY easy to swap out.
      B. They go bad when you aren’t looking.
      Click here, buy 2.
      Corrado Coolant temp sensors

      Next i would say take off your ISV and buy a bottle of CRC MAF sensor cleaner and blast all the crap out of it.


      Now to your points about those other things..
      - alternator (Sure that would cause a bad idle.... but you'd be draining your battery too...) No
      - alt ground ( Sure also but you already looked at that)
      - coil pack (yeah coil pack could be it but I feel like a bad one would do it all the time not 1 HR in)
      - fuel pump relay ( IDK, DUBZAK might have a better idea on this on this.
      - temp sensors (my money is on this being the issue)
      - plugs (It is never a bad idea to put in new plugs.) 8.50/ plug on German Autoparts
      - plug wires (funny story I had a broken plug wire misfiring and arcing onto the sidewall of the intake. I doubt this is your issue.


      TL;DR: I'm going to guess your issue is one of the following.
      1. temp sensor
      2. ISV (idle stabilizer valve)
      3. Coilpack.... Maybe.

      Change the temp sensor, clean the ISV. Then let us know what happened. If you want to be like me and become Anal, throw new sparkplugs at it for giggles.

      GL
      Quote Originally Posted by Macks04GLI View Post
      THANKS! I haven't done the plugs yet, but they will get done. And plug wires replaced also.

      I have read your reply a few times..and will prob read it a few more. Many thanks. I'll report back soon.
      Quote Originally Posted by TheLateJetta View Post
      Swap out the Blue temp sensor first.
      If that does the trick and the car runs fine, dont do anything else.

      If it doenst work, or works a little bit better. Then clean the ISV.

      Then stop and let us know what happens before you spend $50 on plugs and like 80 on wires.

      Good luck. Your bently book should have diagrams on how to locate the sensors and the ISV if you havent already
      Quote Originally Posted by Macks04GLI View Post
      Will do. Have Bentley will research.

      Since I just acquired the car, I think I'll do the plug anyway. I didn't get a maintenance log with the car so I need to establish a baseline. I plan on keeping her in the collection for a while.


      Thanks for the advice and the direction. I'm ordering sensors and plugs today.
      UPDATE: First thanks to all who added their two cents to my issue.

      Okay, temp sensor is switched out and i'm doing a quick oil change while i had the car up. Plugs, wires, and fuel pump sensor is going in just a few (taking a snack break). Hopefully I'll have here back running today. If so i'll drive it the rest of the day and see what happens.

      Oh i'm going to clean the ISV valve also. Any body know a thread that shows where it lives? Sorry this is my first VR6 so i'm still learning.
      '12 Titan "Heavy Metal" Crew Cab 4x4 - daily kid hauler
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    9. Member Macks04GLI's Avatar
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      10-06-2012 06:01 PM #7584
      Quick someone tell me what the gap should be for NGK 7E plugs going in my VR6 Stage 1 Kinetics setup? Its non IC right now and only set at 6lbs of boost.

      ....yes, i'm going to use the search function now, but figure one you guys had it memorized.

      '12 Titan "Heavy Metal" Crew Cab 4x4 - daily kid hauler
      '04 B6 S4 Avant 4.2L mid life crisis toy
      '94 Corrado SLC VRT Sherry Red Widebody
      '96 D21 Hardbody, Bagged and Dropped scrapper

    10. Member jamm585's Avatar
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      1992 Corrado SLC
      10-06-2012 07:01 PM #7585
      This may be a noob/retard inquiry, but here goes..... 92 Corrado SLC

      The turn signals or 4-way flashers do not work. The relay and the fuse has been replaced. Any ideas??

    11. Member onavarro8's Avatar
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      10-07-2012 12:36 AM #7586
      So I am planning to change the front ball joints on the rado in a couple of weeks since one of them went bad. This will be my first time trying this and from what I have read it shouldn't be too hard.

      I was wondering if anybody recommends replacing the control arms aswell? not sure if I should just replace the bushings or get the complete arms or if I should even mess with that?
      Just looking for input thanks!
      Last edited by onavarro8; 10-07-2012 at 11:08 PM.
      Nice cars turn heads...Corrados break necks!

    12. Junior Member
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      1992 VW Corrado VR6
      10-07-2012 05:18 PM #7587
      Does the sleeve that goes between the rear control arm bushing and the bolt serve any purpose? Is it a necessary part?

      Part in question: Rear Control Arm Bushing Sleeve

    13. Member DUBZAK's Avatar
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      10-07-2012 05:49 PM #7588
      Quote Originally Posted by mattsgota325i View Post
      anyone?
      Use the emergency latches, located in the belts "closed" position on the "B" pillar, they fold out and belts can be used.

      Quote Originally Posted by Das.Rado View Post
      So the dowells came loose from my autotech flywheel and carved a nice slice into my bellhousing. Furthermore, my pressure plate bolts ended up coming loose.

      Is this a common flywheel problem that autotech will cover or am i hooped?

      (Corrado VR6)
      Sounds like the stretch bolts on the pressure plate came loose, and vibrated the dowell pins out. make sure they torque properly on reassembly.


      Quote Originally Posted by MrBland View Post
      Does the sleeve that goes between the rear control arm bushing and the bolt serve any purpose? Is it a necessary part?

      Part in question: Rear Control Arm Bushing Sleeve
      Not if using. :R32 control arm bushings. I have never used that sleeve on any ca bushing.
      |Corrado SLC 2.9LVR6|Corrado Keyless Entry | A8 "Grape Ape" | SPOONFEDTUNING |FOURSEASONTUNING|DUBNUTZ|
      Quote Originally Posted by pileofredparts View Post
      Do you guys remember the time that Ryan kid started mixing and matching rods and end caps and then his motor wouldnt turn over? I do

    14. Member HavokRuels's Avatar
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      10-07-2012 07:54 PM #7589
      Quote Originally Posted by Macks04GLI View Post
      UPDATE: First thanks to all who added their two cents to my issue.

      Okay, temp sensor is switched out and i'm doing a quick oil change while i had the car up. Plugs, wires, and fuel pump sensor is going in just a few (taking a snack break). Hopefully I'll have here back running today. If so i'll drive it the rest of the day and see what happens.

      Oh i'm going to clean the ISV valve also. Any body know a thread that shows where it lives? Sorry this is my first VR6 so i'm still learning.
      Isv is located to the right of the tb under the engine cover. Follow the hose coming off of the back side of the intake elbow, it ends at the isv


      Sent while sitting on my ass VIA my iPad
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    15. Member Macks04GLI's Avatar
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      10-08-2012 07:56 AM #7590
      Quote Originally Posted by Macks04GLI View Post
      Quick someone tell me what the gap should be for NGK 7E plugs going in my VR6 Stage 1 Kinetics setup? Its non IC right now and only set at 6lbs of boost.

      ....yes, i'm going to use the search function now, but figure one you guys had it memorized.

      Okay searched and searched and it looks like .028 is the recommended gap with 18lbs of torque on the tighten.
      '12 Titan "Heavy Metal" Crew Cab 4x4 - daily kid hauler
      '04 B6 S4 Avant 4.2L mid life crisis toy
      '94 Corrado SLC VRT Sherry Red Widebody
      '96 D21 Hardbody, Bagged and Dropped scrapper

    16. Member
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      10-08-2012 11:26 AM #7591
      Quote Originally Posted by vwraaner View Post
      I have recently converted to the MK4 rear calipers, and swapped all brake lines to steel braided lines. I have also flushed 3 liters of brake fluid through the system with a ezibleeder just to be sure that there is no air left.

      But now when i park my car with the e-brake on the ABS light either stays on or come on when i drive. I now suspect that the rear proportioning valve might be sticking? And when the ABS is working, i can also feel that the ABS is kicking in when it shouldnt (very light braking in slow speed etc) And when it does that the pedal gets significantly harder to press down...

      Before i swapped the rear calipers the ABS worked just fine, but then again i have not parked the car with e-brake on the last 4 months because the brakes would stick when releasing e-brake...

      Update: I was driving my corrado earlier this day, and when reversing up my driveway i can hear that the rear brakes are slightly sticking and makes a whining/grinding noise. Now i really suspect that the rear proportioning valve are bad because i have brand new calipers. Is there any other way that i can check if it really is failing? And can a bad rear proportioning valve make the ABS system shut off because of higher pressure than normal?
      Bumping this, winter is knocking at the door and i seriously need the ABS to work soon...
      Quote Originally Posted by DUBZAK View Post
      I'd rather push my broken, on fire, blown up VW than ever drive a Honda.

    17. Member DUBZAK's Avatar
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      10-08-2012 01:04 PM #7592
      Quote Originally Posted by vwraaner View Post
      Bumping this, winter is knocking at the door and i seriously need the ABS to work soon...
      Pull the rotors and check condition of the abs rings on the rear rotors. Also, scan the ABS for faults.
      |Corrado SLC 2.9LVR6|Corrado Keyless Entry | A8 "Grape Ape" | SPOONFEDTUNING |FOURSEASONTUNING|DUBNUTZ|
      Quote Originally Posted by pileofredparts View Post
      Do you guys remember the time that Ryan kid started mixing and matching rods and end caps and then his motor wouldnt turn over? I do

    18. 10-08-2012 05:03 PM #7593
      Im trying to remove the shifting linkage off my manual trans and place it on my replacement trans. The part sits on top of the trans and looks like this one.



      Heres the situation I removed the linkage and taken out the 2 bolts that hold the unit in place in the trans. I started pulling the unit/part out and it stops half way. It seems as if the shaft is connected in some way.
      Question is how do I get this part out and what is holding it up?

      There is 2 bolts and a plate on the bottom of the trans. Is there something I need to disconnect there?

      Your help is appreciated.

    19. Member DUBZAK's Avatar
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      10-08-2012 05:34 PM #7594
      Reinstall it, amd make sure the trans is in neutral before you remove it,. If in neutral, it should come out with a slight twist.
      |Corrado SLC 2.9LVR6|Corrado Keyless Entry | A8 "Grape Ape" | SPOONFEDTUNING |FOURSEASONTUNING|DUBNUTZ|
      Quote Originally Posted by pileofredparts View Post
      Do you guys remember the time that Ryan kid started mixing and matching rods and end caps and then his motor wouldnt turn over? I do

    20. 10-08-2012 07:26 PM #7595
      Thanks DUBZAK I was able to get it out. The problem was I didn't pull on it hard enough. I lifted on it till the trans came off the ground and popped right out. Thanks again

    21. Member
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      10-09-2012 11:13 AM #7596
      Quote Originally Posted by DUBZAK View Post
      Pull the rotors and check condition of the abs rings on the rear rotors. Also, scan the ABS for faults.
      I was afraid someone would say that

      I am going to change for winter tyres in a week or so, and i am going to pull all 4 rotors and clean the sensors thoroughly.

      But i have discovered a trick to get the ABS working: when i start the car i press the brake pedal slightly at the exact same time as the e-brake light go out, and then i have working ABS! If i dont press the brake pedal the ABS light stays on.

      Maybe i have some air left in the system? My ezibleeder cant take over 20 PSI pressure so maybe i have to get a brake bleeder that use more pressure to get the last air bubbles out? Or maybe i have to replace or make some adjustments on the rear proportioning valve?

      Btw i have a 1989 model, and i have read here somewhere that pre 1990 models dont have a connection for scanning the brake system...
      Last edited by vwraaner; 10-09-2012 at 11:17 AM.
      Quote Originally Posted by DUBZAK View Post
      I'd rather push my broken, on fire, blown up VW than ever drive a Honda.

    22. Member
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      2008 civic si sedan 2006 acura tsx 1997 vw golf gl 1995 vw jetta glx vr6
      10-11-2012 09:26 PM #7597
      I need a DIY on replacing my passenger side window regulator.
      2008 civic si sedan
      2006 tsx
      1997 golf gl (for sale)
      1995 jetta glx vr6

    23. Member crisvr6's Avatar
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      10-12-2012 06:22 PM #7598
      Quote Originally Posted by Jon Coulson View Post
      I need a DIY on replacing my passenger side window regulator.
      Quote Originally Posted by crazynorweegian View Post
      Window regulator replacement / repair info

      Basic DIY
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ndow+regulator

      Supplier link
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ndow+regulator

      Repairing with a junk socket
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ndow+regulator

      Repair with a "U bolt"
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=regulator

      Info on using InPro regulators (a little lengthy, but useful posts throughout)
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ndow+regulator
      should help a bit

    24. Member
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      10-12-2012 09:40 PM #7599
      Thanks a bunch
      2008 civic si sedan
      2006 tsx
      1997 golf gl (for sale)
      1995 jetta glx vr6

    25. Member HavokRuels's Avatar
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      10-14-2012 11:07 AM #7600
      Does anyone have or know where I can get a clutch master cylinder bleeder screw?? I don't know where the **** I put mine lol


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