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    Thread: New Guys: Ask The Experts Thread.

    1. Member CabrioVR's Avatar
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      07-13-2011 03:02 PM #5426
      Hey guys, my corrado's rear wing doesn't work, tested it with just battery goes up and down, i get to the switch no power there, the fuses are all fine and dandy is there a relay or something that i may be missing ? maybe a rear spoiler module ? im new to corrado's

    2. Member Sr. Karmann's Avatar
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      07-13-2011 03:17 PM #5427
      Quote Originally Posted by CabrioVR View Post
      Hey guys, my corrado's rear wing doesn't work, tested it with just battery goes up and down, i get to the switch no power there, the fuses are all fine and dandy is there a relay or something that i may be missing ? maybe a rear spoiler module ? im new to corrado's
      yep, it's a module. I personally don't know if it's incorporated in the cruise control module or separate one all together, but there are 2, the cruise is silver in color and locates behind the cluster on the right and the other one is under the dash right to the left of the spoiler switch, hope this helps
      Quote Originally Posted by crazynorweegian View Post
      Good luck, might want to get vaccinated for "while-I-am-in-there" syndrome.
      tek-euro.com SpoonFedTuning

      my Corrado's specs on corrado-database / My Corrado Build Thread / My Cabby Build Thread / My Boat Build: 18' Powerplay w/5.7l V8

    3. Member TheBurninator's Avatar
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      07-13-2011 03:20 PM #5428
      Quote Originally Posted by Sr. Karmann View Post
      yep, it's a module. I personally don't know if it's incorporated in the cruise control module or separate one all together, but there are 2, the cruise is silver in color and locates behind the cluster on the right and the other one is under the dash right to the left of the spoiler switch, hope this helps
      seperate
      Quote Originally Posted by ein View Post
      * IMPORTANT* The English language is completely inadequate for describing how spectacularly stupid this thread is.

    4. Member Sr. Karmann's Avatar
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      07-13-2011 03:33 PM #5429
      Quote Originally Posted by TheBurninator View Post
      seperate
      Quote Originally Posted by crazynorweegian View Post
      Good luck, might want to get vaccinated for "while-I-am-in-there" syndrome.
      tek-euro.com SpoonFedTuning

      my Corrado's specs on corrado-database / My Corrado Build Thread / My Cabby Build Thread / My Boat Build: 18' Powerplay w/5.7l V8

    5. Member
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      07-13-2011 11:43 PM #5430
      Heya guys, i'm just wondering what the VAG COM Measuring Block value for "Ignition timing at BTDC" should be in a VR6 (OBD2 Swapped, if that matters)? My car is around 5.3-6, but i have seen a 3.8 as well. Any input?
      Hondas are pretty sick.....just saying.

    6. Member TheLateJetta's Avatar
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      07-15-2011 09:53 AM #5431
      What is the "experts" opinion of Autotech 262 Cams in a VR6 Application. I'm looking for a camshaft enhancement without compromising the engines ability to idle smoothly.

      I've got a Neuspeed chip in the ECU ATM
      -TLJ

    7. Member DUBZAK's Avatar
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      07-15-2011 09:58 AM #5432
      262's do not require valve springs, and should not effect idle.

      268's should be done with valve springs. And Idles fine with software.

      268's without software sound like this @ Idle. Not really a problem. 268's make more power up top, so if you have an older motor stick with the 262's so you wont have to rev the piss out of your car.

      |Corrado SLC 2.9LVR6|Corrado Keyless Entry | A8 "Grape Ape" | SPOONFEDTUNING |FOURSEASONTUNING|DUBNUTZ|
      Quote Originally Posted by pileofredparts View Post
      Do you guys remember the time that Ryan kid started mixing and matching rods and end caps and then his motor wouldnt turn over? I do

    8. Member TheLateJetta's Avatar
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      07-15-2011 10:09 AM #5433
      Quote Originally Posted by DUBZAK View Post
      262's do not require valve springs, and should not effect idle.
      so if you have an older motor stick with the 262's so you wont have to rev the piss out of your car.
      I'm looking to increase low-midrange power. What cam measument is the right one for that?

      I only have 80 is thousand miles on my Rado. But I'm a pu$$ie of a driver (the slow one during cruises.) There is a set of Autotech 262's new in the box available in the local group that I though I'd buy and let them sit for 20k miles until I take my head apart.

      Thx
      -TLJ

    9. Member DUBZAK's Avatar
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      07-15-2011 10:53 AM #5434
      Quote Originally Posted by TheLateJetta View Post
      I'm looking to increase low-midrange power. What cam measument is the right one for that?
      Stock
      I only have 80 is thousand miles on my Rado. But I'm a pu$$ie of a driver (the slow one during cruises.) There is a set of Autotech 262's new in the box available in the local group that I though I'd buy and let them sit for 20k miles until I take my head apart.

      Thx
      All VR6 Aftermarket Cams increase Mid Range And Upper RPM Power. You are asking for wheelspin if you want more low end and its just not going to happen with a set of cams.

      Personally 262's are for people who just want to say the have "cams". 268's are for those who wanna wake up a VR6. I shift at 7,300 where the 268s make a ton of difference but my motor is a little bit built.
      |Corrado SLC 2.9LVR6|Corrado Keyless Entry | A8 "Grape Ape" | SPOONFEDTUNING |FOURSEASONTUNING|DUBNUTZ|
      Quote Originally Posted by pileofredparts View Post
      Do you guys remember the time that Ryan kid started mixing and matching rods and end caps and then his motor wouldnt turn over? I do

    10. Member 1broknrado's Avatar
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      07-15-2011 11:02 AM #5435
      Would be even better if you were shifting at 8300 with some head work


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      My 24v Vr6 Corrado Build Thread
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      Quote Originally Posted by Inkarnata View Post
      Corrado's come with cocaine in the dash vents, blows it straight into your face and gets you hooked....

    11. Member DUBZAK's Avatar
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      07-15-2011 11:09 AM #5436
      Headwork will happen eventually. Ahh yes, With Eurospec Sports Solid Lifter Conversion and cams in the 300's.....that would equal one mean NA Machine. (If i syat NA that is. )
      |Corrado SLC 2.9LVR6|Corrado Keyless Entry | A8 "Grape Ape" | SPOONFEDTUNING |FOURSEASONTUNING|DUBNUTZ|
      Quote Originally Posted by pileofredparts View Post
      Do you guys remember the time that Ryan kid started mixing and matching rods and end caps and then his motor wouldnt turn over? I do

    12. Member TheLateJetta's Avatar
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      07-15-2011 12:00 PM #5437
      Quote Originally Posted by DUBZAK View Post
      You are asking for wheelspin if you want more low end and its just not going to happen with a set of cams.
      Thats silly. A Corrado is a thing of beauty, not some tire shredding loudmouth.

      Quote Originally Posted by DUBZAK View Post
      Personally 262's are for people who just want to say the have "cams". 268's are for those who wanna wake up a VR6. I shift at 7,300 where the 268s make a ton of difference but my motor is a little bit built.
      See that makes my mind up. 262's will be just fine for my driving style.

      I admire you high shifting built-motor dudes. I just cant keep up
      -TLJ

    13. Member DUBZAK's Avatar
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      07-15-2011 12:09 PM #5438
      LOL I love that pic.

      Seriously the 262's will add mid range and top end to the power band without sacrificing the low end. Most other cams above that lose low end to make power up top.
      After that get a chip to match the cams.

      My Corrado will be a tire shredding monster once this new closer ratio 5 speed is done.
      |Corrado SLC 2.9LVR6|Corrado Keyless Entry | A8 "Grape Ape" | SPOONFEDTUNING |FOURSEASONTUNING|DUBNUTZ|
      Quote Originally Posted by pileofredparts View Post
      Do you guys remember the time that Ryan kid started mixing and matching rods and end caps and then his motor wouldnt turn over? I do

    14. Member TheBurninator's Avatar
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      07-15-2011 12:18 PM #5439
      Quote Originally Posted by DUBZAK View Post
      LOL I love that pic.

      Seriously the 262's will add mid range and top end to the power band without sacrificing the low end. Most other cams above that lose low end to make power up top.
      After that get a chip to match the cams.

      My Corrado will be a tire shredding monster once this new closer ratio 5 speed is done.
      The one stipulation with that is that the VR6 Intake manifold and ports in the head limit the power band. It pretty much falls on its face at 6500 RPM without fail. There have been few exceptions out there to this.
      Quote Originally Posted by ein View Post
      * IMPORTANT* The English language is completely inadequate for describing how spectacularly stupid this thread is.

    15. Member TheLateJetta's Avatar
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      07-15-2011 01:10 PM #5440
      Quote Originally Posted by TheBurninator View Post
      The one stipulation with that is that the VR6 Intake manifold and ports in the head limit the power band. It pretty much falls on its face at 6500 RPM without fail. There have been few exceptions out there to this.
      That is absolutely right. However if you are going to be hanging around above 6500 RPMs frequently I'm really hoping that you've improved the performance of the head... intake... block... exhaust.... Yeah just the whole dam thing.

      Quote Originally Posted by DUBZAK View Post
      LOL I love that pic.
      Seriously the 262's will add mid range and top end to the power band without sacrificing the low end. Most other cams above that lose low end to make power up top.
      After that get a chip to match the cams.
      My Corrado will be a tire shredding monster once this new closer ratio 5 speed is done.
      Thats one of my fav pics. Thx for the tips on the camshafts. Of course I will mate cams with a good chip. they go together like lamb & Tunafeesh.

      I take this time to insert a protip.

      Stickers from DubKorps add 5WHp & 4WTq
      Last edited by TheLateJetta; 07-15-2011 at 01:17 PM.
      -TLJ

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      07-15-2011 07:35 PM #5441
      I have a 93 SLC and I am planning on doing a tranny flush on Sunday. Do I need a 17 mm hex or a 12 point? Which one is it to remove the fill-in and drain!

    17. Member RedYellowWhite's Avatar
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      07-16-2011 03:20 PM #5442
      Quote Originally Posted by RedYellowWhite View Post
      Is it possible to weld a cracked inner 3pc wheel barrel?
      The crack is about 1'' long and it starts from the edge of the barrel...
      Is it safe for the wheels structural integrity/design?
      Here's the pic to my situation...







      Looking forward hearing the wheel experts opinions
      Quote Originally Posted by dogger View Post
      ... (Corrado) might be the greatest collection of bad VW ideas ever put into one car.
      My Corrado (sort of) build thread / On Database
      My MK1 build thread
      SpoonFedTuning

    18. Member Sr. Karmann's Avatar
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      07-16-2011 04:40 PM #5443
      Quote Originally Posted by RedYellowWhite View Post
      Here's the pic to my situation...







      Looking forward hearing the wheel experts opinions
      Already have answered you my friend ^^^^^^^^^
      Quote Originally Posted by crazynorweegian View Post
      Good luck, might want to get vaccinated for "while-I-am-in-there" syndrome.
      tek-euro.com SpoonFedTuning

      my Corrado's specs on corrado-database / My Corrado Build Thread / My Cabby Build Thread / My Boat Build: 18' Powerplay w/5.7l V8

    19. Member TheLateJetta's Avatar
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      07-16-2011 04:55 PM #5444
      Quote Originally Posted by 350Zimo View Post
      I have a 93 SLC and I am planning on doing a tranny flush on Sunday. Do I need a 17 mm hex or a 12 point? Which one is it to remove the fill-in and drain!
      Is your car a manual transmission?

      If so you need a standard 17mm Alan wrench. Sears has them. That tool removes the Filler hole AND the drain point.
      Remember to remove both when you are draining the fluid.

      Its a fairly simple job, just make sure you let the old fluid drip out for 15-20 mins to make sure it all comes out.
      -TLJ

    20. Member RedYellowWhite's Avatar
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      07-16-2011 05:44 PM #5445
      Quote Originally Posted by Sr. Karmann View Post
      Already have answered you my friend ^^^^^^^^^
      Thanks

      I just thought that maybe posting pics of the crack would confirm or decline the already given advise...I guess this means that its fine to be welded
      Quote Originally Posted by dogger View Post
      ... (Corrado) might be the greatest collection of bad VW ideas ever put into one car.
      My Corrado (sort of) build thread / On Database
      My MK1 build thread
      SpoonFedTuning

    21. Member TheBurninator's Avatar
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      07-16-2011 06:02 PM #5446
      Quote Originally Posted by RedYellowWhite View Post
      Thanks

      I just thought that maybe posting pics of the crack would confirm or decline the already given advise...I guess this means that its fine to be welded
      Have it TIG'd not MIG

      Cost a touch more but it will be less brittle. And should be easy to fix.

      Also replied to the rest of it
      Quote Originally Posted by ein View Post
      * IMPORTANT* The English language is completely inadequate for describing how spectacularly stupid this thread is.

    22. Member ItsNotaScirocco's Avatar
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      07-16-2011 11:55 PM #5447
      Drove a G60 today to waterfest with a little bit of hard driving and some traffic on the way. Pulled into a gas staition and when I went to restart it, it was sputtering and stalled a few times. After I got it started ran and drove fine. Pulled into my spot at the show and was asked to move. So I started it again and had the same issues. After the engine has cooled down it starts right up. Any ideas where to start with this one?
      WTB Passat Syncro Rear beam

    23. Member Sr. Karmann's Avatar
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      07-16-2011 11:57 PM #5448
      Quote Originally Posted by ItsNotaScirocco View Post
      Drove a G60 today to waterfest with a little bit of hard driving and some traffic on the way. Pulled into a gas staition and when I went to restart it, it was sputtering and stalled a few times. After I got it started ran and drove fine. Pulled into my spot at the show and was asked to move. So I started it again and had the same issues. After the engine has cooled down it starts right up. Any ideas where to start with this one?
      Sounds to me like a vapor lock issue, look into your fuel pump after-run
      Quote Originally Posted by crazynorweegian View Post
      Good luck, might want to get vaccinated for "while-I-am-in-there" syndrome.
      tek-euro.com SpoonFedTuning

      my Corrado's specs on corrado-database / My Corrado Build Thread / My Cabby Build Thread / My Boat Build: 18' Powerplay w/5.7l V8

    24. Member RedYellowWhite's Avatar
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      07-17-2011 02:01 AM #5449
      Quote Originally Posted by TheBurninator View Post
      Have it TIG'd not MIG

      Cost a touch more but it will be less brittle. And should be easy to fix.

      Also replied to the rest of it
      Quote Originally Posted by dogger View Post
      ... (Corrado) might be the greatest collection of bad VW ideas ever put into one car.
      My Corrado (sort of) build thread / On Database
      My MK1 build thread
      SpoonFedTuning

    25. Member TheLateJetta's Avatar
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      07-17-2011 12:18 PM #5450
      OK.
      VR KnowItAlls listen up. As we know, most of the time in the AAA engine it is NOT the chains themselves that go bad, it is the guides that are cheap and made of plastic that get worn and start to make icky noise.

      Is there a supplier who makes a billet aluminum replacement part? Or any other material that lasts longer than the OEM parts? Granted the OE parts last plenty of time but I'm curious.

      Would it even be a good idea to have metal guides?

      As you can see below I have a little over 80k miles on my Corrado so I'm thinking that by the time I hit 100K I'm going to change the chains so I'm just doing some fact checking.

      -TLJ

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