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New Guys: Ask The Experts Thread.

1M views 11K replies 896 participants last post by  F16Waldo 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
ok new guys, rather than posting a TON of different threads, please post your questions in here so we can all try to help you out.
be sure to list the following:
year of car, motor type, any modifications you know of.
issue at hand
your ability to work on cars (be honest on this one)
ok, ask away...........
pic for clicks.............
 
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#78 ·
Re: (Noobercorn)

OK, I will join the fun.
I have 91 G60 with no more charger and am running a T3 super 60 turbo. The car is running with 42# injectors, stock IC, SNS stage V chip, 93oct at all times, pushing around 15psi.
I have since gone through two blocks, blew one piston to pieces and another cant be far behind. Why is this happening?
Other people have given me advice but they tend to contradict. Some say running lean and detonation, some say running rich and pooling, and third is the timing is off. I have dyno charts I could post if that helps with the fueling
 
#86 ·
FV-QR

Quote, originally posted by Noobercorn »
wow, your AFR's are all over the place. it should be MUCH more static than that. i point to a poor fuel filter, pump, or tune.


I think it is from Digi 1 management... it runs like that all the time on a perfect tune. THe CPU cant keep up with the engine
Standalone that thing and get a solid tune on it.
 
#87 ·
Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)

My Corrado logo is missing of the rear of the car and it saddens me alot and the shift nob is missing the medallion... is there a site or something were i can order this stuff from? or am i going to have to sneak into one of your houses and rip off the corrado logo lol
 
#88 ·
Re: FV-QR (omega260)

contact one of the links in the 3rd or 4th post of this thread for the corrado logo on the back. as for the shift knob, you are better off buying a BRAND NEW one as they are only ~ 35 bucks from the dealership.
 
#90 ·
Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)

I a give and a take. My give is I recently took apart my spoiler to see why one side didn't want to go down very well. Here are the inards of the spoiler mechanism and the broken cable that caused it.
This is the inside of where the motor moves the cables on either side. This needs to be lubed up for the two toothed sliders to move freely. These attach to the cables that raise and lower the spoiler.

This is why mine had troubles going down. The cable broke so it could push the spoiler up but couldn't pull it back down.

Now my question.
I have a '90 G60 and the HVAC has been having issues for some time. Most of the time it is stuck on the dash vents no matter what the selector is on. When it is above 70F outside then it does some other weird stuff. I'll try to explain the best I can.
Driving normal and then taking a left hand turn the HVAC will go from dash vents to what the selector is on (usually floor vents).
If HVAC is working correctly on the indicated vents and then a slight sudden stop is performed it will always go back to the dash vents.
I know that I'll need to pull the dash and get to the HVAC box but what should I look for when I get in there.

Awesome thread idea too. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 
#92 ·
Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)

Quote, originally posted by TheBurninator »


I think it is from Digi 1 management... it runs like that all the time on a perfect tune. THe CPU cant keep up with the engine
Standalone that thing and get a solid tune on it.

Standalone is my plan and it has been my plan, but now I need to get a real job to afford it. I was just wondering if there anything I can do now to get through the season.
Thanks for all the responses
 
#93 ·
FV-QR

Quote, originally posted by prodigy_g60 »

Standalone is my plan and it has been my plan, but now I need to get a real job to afford it. I was just wondering if there anything I can do now to get through the season.
Thanks for all the responses

There really isn't too much you can do to solve the issue of digi 1 being slow to react. Megasquirt is cheap and works well though.
 
#94 ·
Re: FV-QR (TheBurninator)

Quote, originally posted by TheBurninator »
Your HVAC issue is due to a lack of a vacuum one way valve. Also check the vacuum lines on the actual controls them selves.

also check the metal relay cables (think bicycle brake cables) going to the "flaps" on the heater box. you can access these from under the pass side dash, and there should be a blue and black one easily accessible. one changes from hot to cold, the other direction of air travel. make sure they are both secured properly.
 
#95 ·
FV-QR

Quote, originally posted by Noobercorn »

also check the metal relay cables (think bicycle brake cables) going to the "flaps" on the heater box. you can access these from under the pass side dash, and there should be a blue and black one easily accessible. one changes from hot to cold, the other direction of air travel. make sure they are both secured properly.

If it is early interior those cables dont exist
 
#97 ·
Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)

OK, so yes jake and i have been going over this and over and over. The first problem is that there are so many GUESSES on what the actual normal running coolant and oil temps on a 1992-1994 slc with working a/c as the car would come from the factory. Please understand Jake and i are not noobs we use search and have read through the bently and have a large back round working on vw's. We are asking to please not post if you are not sure we need facts and specs. To figure it out!
Now to help mods on both cars are intake and exhaust. other then that it's all pretty crap. Both cars do a lot of the same things but a few different.
Jakes car runs at 230 all the time fans run and shut off, temp drops few then temp comes back and fans cycle again. My car runs at 200 till sitting in traffic then 230 and fans kick and cycle as jakes does. The difference is my thermostat is said to be a 160(not sure)
Now both cars with a/c on run same, 230 with fans running.
Jakes car is running 5 40 synth oil and average temps are 220.
My car running 20w-50 castrol and temps run from 220 to as high on highway 250!
I'm thinking i have a bad oil temp sensor as oil should not have that drastic differences.
When both cars are shut off low fans will run for a min then shut off, sometimes turning back on and cycling.
Both have same sensors(all three) and fresh full coolant flush.
So this might be tough to find but could someone who has owned said car from new tell us what they have seen over time if they can remember.
1) please state normal running no a/c on temp.
2) temps in traffic
3) temps when fans kick and cycle
4) all above with a/c on
5) summer temps
6) winter temps
Thank you!
 
#99 ·
Re: FV-QR (Noobercorn)

Quote, originally posted by Noobercorn »

secondly, i have seen SOOOOOO many of the same thread over and over and over again over the last 7 years, that i felt we should have a thread like this. one that the more senior level forum attendees could check every day to help out the new peeps, and/or the old ones with questions.


Just want to tag this thread so I can check it in my watched topics.
Oh and here,

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...age=1
 
#100 ·
Re: FV-QR (Pigsdofly)

hey guys im new to the corrado thing...... i have a question.
when i turn my wheel in either direction while driving, i hear a clicking sound coming from the drivers side wheel area. what could it be? i can almost feel the clicking in the car. thats how bad it is! is it my transmission? or even worse, my motor? any help would be much appreciated.....
 
#101 ·
Re: FV-QR (Mr. Blank)

Quote, originally posted by Mr. Blank »
hey guys im new to the corrado thing...... i have a question.
when i turn my wheel in either direction while driving, i hear a clicking sound coming from the drivers side wheel area. what could it be? i can almost feel the clicking in the car. thats how bad it is! is it my transmission? or even worse, my motor? any help would be much appreciated.....

could be the CV joints in the axle. jack up the car (and us jack stands http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif ) and take a look at the CV boots at each end of the axle. if they are torn up then dirt and grime probably got in there and the joint is bad.
 
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