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    Thread: unOFFICIAL - How Do You Do That in Photoshop Thread?

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      06-17-2009 12:52 AM #1
      Well, I'd like to try to conglomerate another beaten to death topic; PHOTOSHOP.
      I realize that people don't solely use photoshop, so this isn't limited to only photoshop. I just don't have any experience with Elements, Lightroom, Aperture, Gimp, Corel, etc. This will be a work in process to, please bear with me while I compile things together.

      DISCLAIMER: THIS IS NOT THE THREAD TO ASK SOMEBODY TO LOWER YOUR CAR AND CHANGE THE WHEEL COLOR that thread can be found here: All Car Photoshop Requests Here

      Use this thread to ask questions, and share knowledge. We all have to start somewhere, and if it weren't the help of you guys, I'd still be playing around with iPhoto (even though I've owned CS3 for quite some time).

      So, Let us begin:

      How do I sharpen photos?
      I typically will use Unsharp Mask Filter or Luminosity Sharpening.

      Unsharp Mask can be found:
      -Filter > Sharpen > Unsharp Mask

      Amount: Determines the amount of sharpening applied
      Radius: Determines how many pixels out from the edge the sharpening will affect
      Threshold: Determines how different a pixel must be from the surrounding area before it's considered an edge pixel and sharpened by the filter

      What Do I Set my Unsharp Mask to?
      This will all vary, but from experience and reading, I have found that these presets have come in handy.

      Sharpening Soft Subjects
      Amount: 150%
      Radius: 1
      Threshold: 10

      Sharpening Portraits
      Typically for sharpening close-up portraits.
      Amount: 75%
      Radius: 2
      Threshold: 3

      Moderate Sharpening
      Amount: 120%
      Radius: 1
      Threshold: 3

      Maximum Sharpening
      Amount: 65%
      Radius: 4
      Threshold: 3

      When do I use Maximum Sharpening? Only when the photo is visibly out of focus and needs a heavy sharpening to bring it back into focus or the photo contains a lot of well-defined edges

      All-Purpose Sharpening
      Amount: 85%
      Radius: 1
      Threshold: 4

      Web Sharpening
      Amount: 200%
      Radius: .3
      Threshold: 0

      Luminosity Sharpening

      -Command+J (Mac) or Ctrl+J (PC) to create a layer copy so that I don't affect the original image, in case I make a drastic mistake with anything
      -Unsharp Mask Filter @ say 125, 1, 3.
      -Go to Edit Menu and select Fade Unsharp Mask
      -I usually leave this at 50% so that I get half the sharpening, and if it isn't enough, I'll just run this again. (I actually have this set as an action)

      Actions, How do I Make them?
      Actions are really awesome in that they allow you to apply particular settings that you typically use with frequency like web sizing an image, or running a particular sharpening on an image, or putting in your copyright watermark. Let's see how it is done.

      -Go to Window Menu and Select Actions to bring up Actions Panel.
      -Right next to the trash can icon is a Create New Action Icon. It looks similar to Create a New Layer icon.
      -Clicking will bring up a Dialog: Name your Action accordingly. For the sake of illustration let's turn Websizing an image from a 300dpi image to a 72dpi image. Let's name it Web Sizing. Click OK.
      -Hit the Record button, like you would see on a VCR (if you guys are "old" enough to remember them lol)
      -Go to Image Menu, Select Image Size. Another menu will pop up. I have my resolution set to 300 pixels/inch. For webhosting, I will set it to 72 pixels/inch. Click OK.
      -Now, let's sharpen the photo for web. You should remember, but if not. Fliter > Sharpen >Unsharp Mask @ 200%, .3, 0 and then click OK.
      -You have websized your photos. You can take this one step further if you like by adding steps to Save as a jpeg or whatever format you like. You can even save it to a "FOR WEB FOLDER" or what not.

      I will add more tutorials and photoshop ideas/techniques as I learn them. I have quite a few that I can put together, but will take me some time.


      Modified by Paint_By_Numbers at 10:15 PM 7-5-2009


    2. Member O_Matt's Avatar
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      06-17-2009 10:38 AM #2
      great idea, i will be watching this.
      RIMZO

    3. 06-17-2009 12:54 PM #3
      very productive idea for a thread

      subscribed


    4. 06-17-2009 01:27 PM #4
      I have always wondered about watermarks. Simplest way to create them and apply them to a photo- be it individually or in a batch.

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      06-17-2009 01:35 PM #5
      i vote for this to be stickied.

      i had no idea how to create actions...now i'll play when i get home.

      ***i seriously suck at photoshop. hahaha...me = no patience for it.


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      06-17-2009 01:47 PM #6
      This is not the end-all-be-all to do this by any means; simply the way that I would do them. Once again, I am by no means a photoshop wizard, though I wish I were, cuz then I could throw photographic composition out the window (just kidding)... lol

      Well on with it

      How Do I add Watermarks?

      -Open the photo that you add your watermark to.
      -Get the Custom Shape Tool (Shift+U until you get it; should look like a star).
      -Once this is open, go up to your Options Bar and Click on FILL PIXELS ICON (third from left). This makes your shape, which happens to be a COPYRIGHT symbol, out of pixels rather than adding a layer or path or whatever.
      -Click on the Thumbnail to the right of the word "SHAPE" and select the COPYRIGHT SYMBOL.
      -Next step is to create a new blank layer, easily done by clicking the CREATE A NEW LAYER ICON at the bottom of layers panel.
      -Click on the foreground color and choose a light gray in the color picker for your foreground color. Next, we will press-and-hold the SHIFT key (to keep proportionality of the symbol) and take your Custom Shape tool, and click-and-drag just above the center of your photo or wherever to make it difficult to steal your photo.
      -Once the symbol is drawn, click on Add a Layer Style icon at the bottom of the layers panel, and choose BEVEL AND EMBOSS from the pop-up menu. Click OK.
      -If you want to add your information, get the TYPE tool (T). Make sure that your Text color matches your foreground color and then type in "Copyright ... " whatever your information is, name, studio name, year, etc. If you are going to duplicate the BEVEL and EMBOSS layer style, what you will want to do is this:
      -Press-and-hold OPTION (MAC) or ALT (PC), and in the layers panel click directly on the words "Effects" on your copyright symbol, and drag-and-drop it onto your TYPE layer. Holding the OPTION or ALT key tells Photoshop that you want to duplicate the effect. IF YOU DO NOT HOLD OPTION (ALT) KEY, IT WON'T DUPLICATE, BUT RATHER MOVE IT TO THE OTHER LAYER.
      -We're almost done. Go back to layers panel, press-and-hold COMMAND+E (CTRL+E) to merge these layers into one single layer. Next, change the layer blend mode from NORMAL to HARD LIGHT, which will make your copyright symbol transparent. REMINDER: You can always change the opacity of the layer to make it easier for clients to view the photo, say 40% or whatever suits your fancy.

      -NOW TURN GRAB A NEW PHOTO AND TURN THIS INTO AN ACTION

      NINJA EDIT: Let's embed your copyright info into the file itself!!!.
      -Now that the file is watermarked to your liking, go to FILE > FILE INFO. Click on the DESCRIPTION TAB. In the center section find the Copyright Status Pop-up Menu. Select COPYRIGHTED and enter your information, I recommend that you type in my NAME so that I can own your photos

      NOW, GO AND TURN THIS INTO AN ACTION


      Modified by Paint_By_Numbers at 12:52 PM 6-17-2009


      Modified by Paint_By_Numbers at 12:52 PM 6-17-2009


    7. 06-17-2009 02:48 PM #7
      good thread i vote sticky as well.


      also, in case people don't already know this, i would suggest whenever doing anything in photoshop, ALWAYS work in layers. it took me a couple of years of fiddling, and then taking an awesome 13 hr tutorial before figuring this essential out.


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      06-17-2009 04:17 PM #8
      How Do I Selective Color?
      -Open the image that you would be interested in selectively coloring.
      -Command+J (CTRL+J) to Create a Layer Copy (as a means to protect the original image)
      -This is the barebones way.. you can either do a simple desaturation (which looks terrible), or do Adjustment > B&W Conversion, or a plethora of ways to change to B&W (we'll get to more effective ways later)
      -So, in your layers panel.. you should see that your color photo will be the background layer, and the B&W layer will be on top of that.
      -Next, we will turn the B&W layer into a layer mask. In your layer panel, it will be the 3rd icon from the left and should look like a whole in a rectangle.
      -Select Brush (B) and make sure that your foreground is set to black. With your mouse click on places where you would like to "BRUSH COLOR BACK INTO THE PHOTO". If you make a mistake, simply change the foreground color back to WHITE and brush away your mistake or brush back the B&W, depending on how you want to look at it.

      It honestly is as simple as that.

      Some tips to consider.
      -Holding down the spacebar will turn your cursor into the hand, allowing you to click and drag to get to different places in the picture.
      -COMMAND+"PLUS SIGN" will enlarge the photo and COMMAND+"MINUS SIGN" will minimize (CTRL for your PC users)
      -Easy way to change the brush size is to use the " [ " & " ] " buttons to make the brush size smaller or larger.
      [=smaller
      ]=larger


    9. 06-17-2009 04:18 PM #9
      Quote, originally posted by Raek »
      i vote for this to be stickied.

      i had no idea how to create actions...now i'll play when i get home.

      ***i seriously suck at photoshop. hahaha...me = no patience for it.

      I am so going to second what this he said.

      Seriously, thanks for this.

      -Chad


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      06-17-2009 04:23 PM #10
      As I get better, I will take print screens of what I'm talking about and put up pictures to go along with my steps. Be patient with me, while I try to do my best.

      If you have any requests or questions, feel free to ask away. This helps me to become better with photoshop, since I've only been using it for about 2 months. If I don't know how to do what you ask, I will do my best to research it and find out which way works for me.


    11. 06-17-2009 04:24 PM #11
      Good read, great your sharing this Mark


    12. Member schmuy's Avatar
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      06-17-2009 04:24 PM #12
      I shot a wedding with the lens cap on. How do I get photoshop to recover the pictures? Is that what curves is for?

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      06-17-2009 04:28 PM #13
      Quote, originally posted by 2u4uR32 »
      Good read, great your sharing this Mark

      Anytime, brother

      Quote, originally posted by schmuy »
      I shot a wedding with the lens cap on. How do I get photoshop to recover the pictures? Is that what curves is for?

      Don't you have some more pics from Africa to go through??? lol....


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      06-17-2009 06:58 PM #14
      This is gooooooood!
      flickr

      Őrült Magyar Vezető!

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      06-17-2009 07:21 PM #15
      good thread.. yet i still need the "photoshop for dummies book"

    16. Member FastTrash2.0T's Avatar
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      06-19-2009 06:18 PM #16
      so what if you have a photo that is too dark or has too much light in it...what do I do to fix that up (to a point) in photochop

      this thread is


      Modified by FastTrash2.0T at 2:26 PM 6-19-2009

      BPC dubs >> you'll find out later tonight....don't worry.

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      07-05-2009 06:20 PM #17
      Quote, originally posted by FastTrash2.0T »
      so what if you have a photo that is too dark or has too much light in it...what do I do to fix that up (to a point) in photochop

      this thread is

      Just adjust your exposure or brightness/contrast. And if you shoot in raw to begin w/, you can adjust the exposure with very little adverse effects.


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      07-05-2009 06:36 PM #18
      Quote, originally posted by No post counting »

      Just adjust your exposure or brightness/contrast. And if you shoot in raw to begin w/, you can adjust the exposure with very little adverse effects.

      I agree with this...;however, I'm also going to add a couple of things...

      First, we all strive for getting it right in-camera.. You have W/B, exposure, composition down in-camera, there is less and less to worry about out. Exposure is one of those things that you want to have right. All because we can slide sliders this way and that, it won't mean that we can always retain the fine detail. If you blow out a shot, it is hard to recover that detail. If a shot is grossly underexposed the same is the result.

      However, with that said:

      I recommend that you shoot in RAW. And if you own Adobe Bridge, I highly recommend that you open your photos in Adobe Camera Raw (ACR). Even if you shoot in JPEG, you can still open your files in ACR if you like. In ACR, you will be able to change a plethora of things.

      -First, I advise that you get the W/B down. The reason for this is that if the W/B is off, it doesn't matter if the rest is perfect, the shot won't be "good", in my opinion.
      -Next, make adjustments to exposure. You can use the sliders around to tweak things the way that you like.
      -If you underexpose your shot slightly, and I do mean slightly, FILL LIGHT is a good tool to bring the details in the shadows.


    19. Member DOQ fastlane's Avatar
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      08-05-2009 08:33 AM #19
      Great thread

    20. Member compy222's Avatar
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      08-05-2009 05:14 PM #20
      Curves

      One of the simplest and largest adjustments you can make to a jpeg photo (raw you can use the sliders) is the curves tool. It can be found under image>adjustments>curves or simply ctrl-M.

      It will open a window that has a straight diagonal line running bottom left to top right. this line is the tone and contrast of the image. As you move up from the bottom left you go from shadows to highlights (the lower the diagonal the more you are touching shadows).

      In general - a curve shaped more like an S (with a higher point than the diagonal at the top and lower at the bottom) will create a deeper more contrast-y image. it will make the blacks darker and increase the contrast. the opposite is true for an inverted S (with a lower point than the diagonal at the top and higher at the bottom.

      Pull the whole curve up to create a C shape will make the image darker. Pulling it down to make an inverted C will make the image brighter.

      I can't stress enough that this is a great place to make small tweak. unless the image is very poorly exposed, even minor tweaks can create strange posterized effects and screw with color. I've found this particularly true with skin tones. So be warned on that front.

      Now that you are starting to open and play with curves (as i recommend doing with all pshop functions to see what they really do). You may notice there is an RGB drop down at the top of the curves window. This is great for subtle color tweaks. for example, you really want to make the green in the background trees "pop." It's a great tool for that. HOWEVER - please keep in mind that tweaking the color in one part of the image will tweak it everywhere and the pic of your family with the forest in the background won't look too good if they're teeth, skin, and clothes have a moss green tinge (oops!).

      As a final note:

      you may notice one the left and right of the curves window are two gradients, one on the left vertical, and one on the bottom that is horizontal. The bottom is the input tones, basically what you see on your computer screen. The left is output tones, or what you would see on photopaper or in the real world. This is going to get a bit technical, i apologize to the newbies, but here it goes. What we see in the real world with our eye falls into a dynamic range, this range on a camera is smaller (ie. the sensors sees less tonal range). The strongest part of what we see is usually midtones, this isn't always true for a camera. Optimally, you want to maximize the curves to fall mostly in the midtones. This is the middle half of the diagonal line. so in a good image corrected with curves, a mild S or inverted S will create the most closeness to what we can actually see in the midtones. so the curve will maximize the amount of tonal data (taken from the camera) into the midtones to preserve and increase them on the image.

      A better diagram of this is here (under the dynamic range and film curves header), as with a full write-up on curves with examples. I wish I could explain it better! http://www.cambridgeincolour.c...s.htm

      good luck and get post-processing

      Here is an example of what curves can do if you really go crazy with it. Same image

      Before


      After

      Quote Originally Posted by capsaicin View Post
      AP1 S2000? I can not in good conscience talk you out of that. May your slip angle be great and your bed not be the couch!

    21. Member Meatstick62's Avatar
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      08-09-2009 09:32 PM #21
      great stuff so far.


      question about watermarks: how can I make it so that my watermark is automatically applied to the same place in every picture (i.e. I want to batch process a bunch of images and have the watermark in the bottom right corner of all of them)?

      also (and I may be getting greedy), is it possible to have those watermarks all proportional in size. (i.e. if I crop a few of the images before watermarking, can I prevent the watermark from being dis-proportionally larger on those as compared to the un-cropped pictures)?

      SEDONA MOTORSPORTS

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      08-20-2009 02:29 PM #22
      cropping the image wont resize the watermark. because cropping doesn't resize the image it just cuts out what you don't want there. if you apply a water mark and then do image>>resize image that will distort your watermark. for stuff like water marks it's always the last thing that should be done to your image.
      BEÄSTMÖDE
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      Piss in his gas tank... then **** his wife!

    23. Member schmoopy's Avatar
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      08-20-2009 05:21 PM #23
      im going to try some of this out this weekend, thanks guys for the write ups, very well written and to the point!

    24. Member Meatstick62's Avatar
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      08-21-2009 03:06 AM #24
      thanks. is there any way to get them to automatically be in a certain spot of the picture though (lower right corner for example) without having to drag them their manually each time?
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      08-21-2009 06:24 PM #25
      hmm i'm actually unsure. i put them in different positions depending on the shot because i don't want my watermark to take away from the image.

      i'm sure you could use the pattern function and do it like that some how. let me go look something up for you

      BEÄSTMÖDE
      Quote Originally Posted by itsagti View Post
      Piss in his gas tank... then **** his wife!

    26. Member emerican dub's Avatar
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      08-21-2009 06:26 PM #26
      Batch Watermarking

      If you have a whole folder you want Watermarked, proceed to the File Menu and
      choose Automate > Batch.

      In the resulting dialog is divided into four sections: Play, Source, Destination and Errors.

      In the Play section pull down "Action" and select the Action you just created.

      In the Source section, click the 'Choose' button and highlight the folder of files you want watermarked. (Hopefully you copied the folder, and will actually be watermarking copies of your files!)

      In the Destination section choose "Save and Close"
      If you wish to move the newly copied files to a new folder, click Choose... and find the folder.

      Are you ready? Click "OK" and sit back. Have coffee. When you get back, your files
      will be watermarked.


      taken from -
      http://photoshop911.typepad.co....html

      if i can ask you really quick what version of photoshop are you running?

      BEÄSTMÖDE
      Quote Originally Posted by itsagti View Post
      Piss in his gas tank... then **** his wife!

    27. Member Meatstick62's Avatar
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      08-21-2009 08:09 PM #27
      I'm just using CS
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    28. 08-21-2009 08:13 PM #28
      Sharpening (the way I like to do it)

      In the Layer palette select the layer that has what you want to sharpen.

      1: With this new layer highlighted select Filter / Other / High Pass. Set the Radius between 2-10 depending on the size of the photo, and hit OK. The higher the resolution is the higher you can go.

      2: Zoom into your image to Actual Pixels level so you can better see what you're going to do next.

      3: Go back to the Layer Palette and select Hard Light from the left drop down.

      4: Now go to the Opacity Slider and select a level of sharpening that seems best to you.

      I like this method b/c it puts all the sharpening on its own layer and can easily be changed.


    29. Member emerican dub's Avatar
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      08-21-2009 11:24 PM #29
      yeah i used to use that technique also. i like it for automotive photography the best
      BEÄSTMÖDE
      Quote Originally Posted by itsagti View Post
      Piss in his gas tank... then **** his wife!

    30. 08-25-2009 10:37 PM #30
      great thread
      My Legen...wait for it....dairy VRT build thread http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3571869

    31. Member emerican dub's Avatar
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      09-02-2009 01:21 AM #31
      this doesn't really have anything to do with photoshop itself par-say but it's VERY VERY helpful.

      http://sickdesigner.com/index....e-job/

      BEÄSTMÖDE
      Quote Originally Posted by itsagti View Post
      Piss in his gas tank... then **** his wife!

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      09-17-2009 11:01 PM #32
      Bump!!

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      09-21-2009 02:56 PM #33
      good stuff in here!

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      10-17-2009 04:12 PM #34
      this thread needs more awesome. I don't have anything off the top of my head, but I know someone should...
      BPC dubs >> you'll find out later tonight....don't worry.

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      10-17-2009 04:59 PM #35
      Quote, originally posted by FastTrash2.0T »
      this thread needs more awesome. I don't have anything off the top of my head, but I know someone should...

      Ask and ye shall receive. Sorry, I haven't done much with this since I started this thread. If you guys have questions, I will do my best to do research and figure it out. I am by no means a photoshop pro, there are people in this forum that put me to shame, but here's another one.

      Turning your Signature into a Brush

      -Step One: Grab a nice black felt pen and sign your name or your studio or what have you on a large piece of paper, and then scan your signature

      OR

      If you use a tablet, just open a new document (resolution 300 ppi), and press D to set your foreground black, get the brush tool B, and then choose a small, hard-edged brush and sign your name fairly large

      -Step Two: Go under Edit Menu and choose Define Brush Preset. This will bring up a Brush Name Dialog, where you can give your signature brush a name (How about "Signature"?) and click OK.

      You are done!!

      But let's put this to use.

      Step Three: Open your photo, and get your Brush tool (B), and Control-Click or Right-Click if you are a PC and click anywhere on the image. The Brush Picker will appear, and your signature brush will be the last brush on the list.
      Step Four: By default, the size of your brush will be the size it was when you created the preset, so you may have to adjust the diameter size.
      Step Five: Create a new layer, if you don't want to affect the original image, and click.

      Here is a quick and dirty example of this.

      Enjoy!


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