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    Thread: How to test Rad. Fan control Module, or have fans run on high

    1. Member
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      06-23-2009 11:41 PM #1
      Pusrant to my other thread I think i have determined my rad. fans are only running on low. Before I go and drop the $$ for a new control module can anyone tell me how to test the module or make the fans run on high. Or for that matter can someone tell me what tells them to kick into high. They come one when the a/c is on but on on low and I have never heard them on high and living in Texas it should have happened by now.

      Car in question is a 2002 Jetta wagon, 1.8t. Unfortunately I don't think the module on my MKIII is the same so I can't just do a swap test.

      If there is an easy way to make them run on high all the time that would also work for now till I can get a new module, provided that is the problem.


    2. Member Andaloons's Avatar
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      06-24-2009 08:41 AM #2

      1. To test a fan motor, unplug the electrical connector at the motor and use fused jumper wires to connect battery power and ground directly to the fan. If the fan does not operate, replace the motor.
      2. If the motor tests OK, check the cooling fan thermo switch, located at the bottom of the radiator on the driver's side.
      3. Remove the electrical connector from the cooling fan thermo switch and apply a fused jumper wire between terminals number 1 and number 2 with the ignition switch in the ON position, with the engine not running. Both engine cooling fans should run at low speed.
      4. Next apply the fused jumper wire between terminal number 2 and number 3 with the ignition switch ON and the engine not running. Both engine cooling fans should run at high speed.
      5. If the fans run as described in steps 3 and 4, it indicates that the cooling fans and circuits are running properly and the thermo switch is faulty.
      6. If the fans do not operate with the thermo switch bypassed, check for voltage at the red wire of the thermo switch electrical connector. There should be battery voltage.
      7. If voltage is not present check the large cooling fuses in the engine compartment fuse holder and the No. 16 fuse in the passenger compartment fuse box. If the fuses are OK, the problem lies in the wiring harness, the fan control module or the coolant temperature sensor.
      8. Check the wiring for open or short circuits. The fan control module can only be diagnosed as faulty through process of elimination.

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    3. Member BassNotes's Avatar
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      03-18-2011 02:18 PM #3
      Good info. Bump.
      Bob Lee
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    4. 03-21-2011 10:53 PM #4
      having this issue with my TT. The fans only seem to come on occasionally when the car has been turned off...But never come on when the car is running hot and still running....So i know the fans work, but didn't know what else to look into...

      Thanks for the info...

    5. Member Andaloons's Avatar
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      03-21-2011 11:29 PM #5
      I was wondering were this thread was hiding. I'm glad it was helpful!


    6. Member builtvw's Avatar
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      03-22-2011 01:22 AM #6
      bump

    7. Member nismodrifter's Avatar
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      04-18-2011 09:38 PM #7
      Excellent thread.

      I have disconnected the wire from the radiator temperature sensor.............and the fans CONTINUE running. wtf? I am guessing fan control module is gone. Will be performing the tests as described above tomorrow and see what happens.

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      04-27-2011 04:52 PM #8
      I have this problem but kind of different. my auxiliary fan for the radiator is not turning on when I turn on the a/c on all the speed settings. but, i could see the a/c compressor turn on. would this be a fan control module problem? the part# i checked for my car, this is what I will need, 1J0919506K.

      any help will be great. thank you.

      Quote Originally Posted by nismodrifter View Post
      Excellent thread.

      I have disconnected the wire from the radiator temperature sensor.............and the fans CONTINUE running. wtf? I am guessing fan control module is gone. Will be performing the tests as described above tomorrow and see what happens.

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      05-13-2011 06:53 AM #9
      Thank you for the info. I used this to test the low speed and high speed last night. ended up that the low speed does not turn on on both of them. I am finally concluding that the 2 of my auxiliary fan is bad.
      A/C smaller fan part# 1C0959455C (female connector)
      Engine bigger fan part# 1J0959455S (male connector)


      Quote Originally Posted by radlynx View Post
      I have this problem but kind of different. my auxiliary fan for the radiator is not turning on when I turn on the a/c on all the speed settings. but, i could see the a/c compressor turn on. would this be a fan control module problem? the part# i checked for my car, this is what I will need, 1J0919506K.

      any help will be great. thank you.

    10. Member
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      05-13-2011 06:56 AM #10
      have you tested your fan if it's running on high per the instruction here?

      Quote Originally Posted by jsbaker View Post
      Pusrant to my other thread I think i have determined my rad. fans are only running on low. Before I go and drop the $$ for a new control module can anyone tell me how to test the module or make the fans run on high. Or for that matter can someone tell me what tells them to kick into high. They come one when the a/c is on but on on low and I have never heard them on high and living in Texas it should have happened by now.

      Car in question is a 2002 Jetta wagon, 1.8t. Unfortunately I don't think the module on my MKIII is the same so I can't just do a swap test.

      If there is an easy way to make them run on high all the time that would also work for now till I can get a new module, provided that is the problem.


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      05-16-2011 05:21 PM #11
      "On this vehicle, the cooling fan and A/C compressor operation are controlled by the J293 fan control module, which is usually located in the driver's front corner of the engine compartment on the lower frame rail. The J293 module has both a 14-pin connector identified as the T14 connector in Volkswagen wiring diagrams and a four-pin connector identified as the T4a connector. To diagnose this system, starting on the T14 connector:

      1) Start and idle the vehicle. Select "A/C on" at maximum cooling and "blower on" at high speed.

      2) Check for 12 volts at the T14 connector pin No. 8 (T14/8). This 12-volt signal comes from the A/C switch and requires both cooling fans on at low speed and compressor activation.

      3) Check for 12 volts at pin T14/9. This voltage is a switched ignition source and will have 12 volts when the ignition is in the "on" position.

      4) Check for 12 volts at pin T14/4. This is a constant battery source and should read 12 volts at all times from fuse S16.

      5) Check for a good ground at pin T14/6.

      6) Check for 12 volts at all times at the four-pin connector, T4a pins T4a/1 and T4a/3 from fuses S164 and S180, respectively.

      7) Turn off the ignition. Remove the T14 connector and check for continuity between pins T14/14 and T14/5 on harness side to ensure proper operation of the F38 ambient temperature switch. Continuity must be present if the ambient air temperature is above 32 degrees Fahrenheit. Reconnect the T14 connector and restart the vehicle.

      8) Check pin T14/2 using a duty cycle meter. If the refrigerant charge in the system is normal, about 30 percent to 35 percent duty should be indicated at pin T14/2 without the compressor engaged. The duty cycle signal is supplied by the G65 pressure sensor in response to system pressure changes. A duty cycle above 90 percent or below 20 percent will command the compressor off.

      9) Check for an 11-volt reference voltage at pin T14/3. The reference voltage originates in the J293 fan control module and can be grounded by |the power control module (PCM) under certain circumstances (typically wide open throttle or vehicle overheat conditions) to turn the A/C compressor off.

      If zero volts are present, the PCM is commanding "compressor off" or the wiring harness is shorted to ground. Raise vehicle idle speed above 2500 rpm and observe compressor operation and voltage at pin T14/3. If the voltage at pin T14/3 returns to 11 volts with the idle speed above 2500 rpm and compressor operation resumes, then a throttle basic setting procedure is needed and must be performed with a factory-compatible, by-directional scan tool. Note: A loss of throttle basic settings will keep the compressor from activating.

      If all previous tests have passed, check the T14 connector pin T14/10 for 12 volts. This pin is the output signal to the compressor clutch coil. If all the other tests have passed and there is no voltage at pin T14/10, this indicates a faulty fan control module."

      I got this from this link... http://www.gti-vr6.net/wiki/index.ph...Control_Module

      Quote Originally Posted by radlynx View Post
      have you tested your fan if it's running on high per the instruction here?

    12. Member bink_420's Avatar
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      06-27-2011 11:11 PM #12
      Trying this out tomorrow.....hope it solves my problem

    13. Junior Member turbojunky's Avatar
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      09-16-2011 02:35 AM #13
      Ive had overheating issues, and fans not working, along with my AC coming out warm! I started by changing out the coolant temp sensor, and than tested the fans which were dead! Since than Ive replaced coolant temp sensor which turned my AC cold again, but fans still dont kick in when overheating unless I turn AC on?! They have been cutting in n out and NOW after reading this thread, Im hoping to get to the bottom of this!!

      Thanks again for such a detailed thread!!

    14. 09-24-2011 05:43 AM #14
      Can't forget this thread

    15. 12-05-2011 10:48 AM #15
      is it possible for the fcm to fail intermittently? how does the cts affect the fans?

    16. 12-30-2011 01:51 PM #16
      does anyone have a pic where to fan module is? Im pretty sure mine needs replacement.

    17. Member Andaloons's Avatar
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      12-31-2011 06:13 PM #17
      The FCM is basically underneath the battery. You can't miss it!

      It looks like this:

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    18. 01-01-2012 02:44 PM #18
      Quote Originally Posted by Andaloons View Post
      The FCM is basically underneath the battery. You can't miss it!

      It looks like this:


    19. Member Slimjimmn's Avatar
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      01-01-2012 11:53 PM #19
      fyi, in 8 years I have never replaced a Fan module on a mk4.

      I have though replaced probably 20 fans, and probably 20-30 fuse/relay pannels on top the battery related to radiator fan issues.
      the car is on an inclined driveway and up on jack stands in the front only
      02 GTI 1.8t:> 42DD 3" turboback, BFI full stg1 mount kit, Evoms CAI, Forge boost hoses, Tacotaco sidemount, Ebay TIP, IE 2.0 coil conversion, IE manual tensioner, 20th front brake conversion, IE emissions delete, 42dd catch can, Koni STR.t & WRD sport springs, Samco Coolant hoses, SMF vr6 clutch kit.

    20. Member FTMFW's Avatar
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      01-02-2012 12:59 AM #20
      I only needed to replace mine because when I got rear ended it pushed me into the tow hitch of the Eurovan in front of me. Guess where it hit...


    21. 01-02-2012 02:14 AM #21
      Quote Originally Posted by Slimjimmn View Post
      fyi, in 8 years I have never replaced a Fan module on a mk4.

      I have though replaced probably 20 fans, and probably 20-30 fuse/relay pannels on top the battery related to radiator fan issues.

      When my car over heats it gets to like temp 220+ and fans don't come on. I guess ill try to replace the fuse/relay pannels first.

    22. Member Slimjimmn's Avatar
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      01-02-2012 07:04 PM #22
      no reason to replace it unless its burned or melted.
      the car is on an inclined driveway and up on jack stands in the front only
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    23. n00b
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      04-08-2012 08:20 PM #23
      I was one of the many people looking for this part and the details really are fairly vague as to where this item is (atleast directly under the battery doesn't quite sound detailed enough for me) So here we go. Disconnect the battery terminals, then remove the battery. After that there is the "crib" or plastic box the battery sits in. It has 4 bolts holding it in, remove these bolts and pull it out. This is where it should be and is however what people forget to mention is it is under the metal tray that the "crib" was bolted into. Once you get the four bolts out and have the plastic peice out if you look a little closer twords the front bumper and a little to the left you will notice two bolts (mine were a silver pewterish color). these two bolts hold the module in place and the module itself is directly under these bolts. Just undo the bolts the module will slide right out (it does have a little piece that slides into a sleeve but its not clipped in thank god) and then undo the two plugs in the back of it. I hope this helps I should have taken a picture but inforutnatly I was dog sick while working on this so it didn't happen. As stated just look for those two small bolts a little cadycorner from the battery box and you are golden.

      -Also my problem that replacing this fixed. My fans completely died on me thursday morning, I put in a new fan assembly and coolant sensor on friday and when I turned on the ignition the fans kicked on instantly.... both of them even though the A/C was off. thinking this was strange I still started the car and they continued to run. turned off the car and what do ya know...... they continued to run for 45 min till I just disconnected the negative battery terminal. I checked the sensor and fuse tricks posted on here and all that was left was the module which turned out to be the electrical monster I was looking for. I assume it fried my fan motors out too but can't be certain.

      Also fyi to get to this part the front bumper does not need to be removed. I didn't read it on VWVortex but some other site google so graciously sent me too had a "VW Tech" stating to get to the module the whole front assembly needed to be removed. He was an idiot.

      Good luck with your issues! Happy dubbing!

    24. Member bink_420's Avatar
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      04-13-2012 06:32 PM #24
      I've had an issue with my fans for as long as i can remember. They seem to NEVER want to turn on. I removed my ac last year because i left my ac on when i wasn't in the car for 10 minutes and it burnt out my compressor due to over heating (go figure). I've replaced my cts to a green top 2+ years ago, main fan, my FCM, AND the thermal switch on the rad, now they STILLLLLLL don't turn on, i'm almost ready to throw a switch on them but still want to do a bit of digging before i resort to that. Can ANYBODY give some insight? i absolutely have no idea what else to do.

    25. Member Andaloons's Avatar
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      04-13-2012 09:43 PM #25
      Quote Originally Posted by bink_420 View Post
      I've had an issue with my fans for as long as i can remember. They seem to NEVER want to turn on. I removed my ac last year because i left my ac on when i wasn't in the car for 10 minutes and it burnt out my compressor due to over heating (go figure). I've replaced my cts to a green top 2+ years ago, main fan, my FCM, AND the thermal switch on the rad, now they STILLLLLLL don't turn on, i'm almost ready to throw a switch on them but still want to do a bit of digging before i resort to that. Can ANYBODY give some insight? i absolutely have no idea what else to do.
      Did you go through the tests in post #11? That should narrow down your problem. Also there is a good video with similar test here.
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    26. 04-13-2012 11:16 PM #26
      all of these parts need to be replaced with OEM parts, if not that is quite possibly the issue
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    27. Member forcefedjetta's Avatar
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      04-13-2012 11:35 PM #27
      I noticed my cooling fan relay was bad when the ac would blow warm in traffic the fan was not turning on then a few weeks later I was having a beer with a friend in the driveway when the fan came on when the engine was cold so I whacked relay with a screw driver and fan turned off
      i wish my grass was emo so it would cut it's self

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      04-14-2012 07:43 PM #28
      where is this relay?

    29. Member Slimjimmn's Avatar
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      04-16-2012 12:28 AM #29
      its the fan control module
      the car is on an inclined driveway and up on jack stands in the front only
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      04-16-2012 08:07 AM #30
      gonna need this
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    31. Member Taran's Avatar
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      05-10-2012 01:21 PM #31
      Bump. Summer is coming and this always a hot topic

    32. Member
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      05-11-2012 12:24 AM #32
      Thanks for the reminder, ever since my coolant flange cracked my fans have had issues. System is completely burped. Thinking tomorrow ill just switch to a Manuel system with a switch as its going to make life easier and I drive an hour to work all highway. Still it'd be nice not to have to worry in traffic about overheating.

      Looking for a simple diagram. Switch, Low/high off

    33. Member akrazyassho's Avatar
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      05-14-2012 06:48 PM #33
      This maybe a silly question but how do you test for these voltages on the T14 connector while its plugged in and the car is running (as outline in post #11)?
      I play COD and such on the PC. Pwning a bunch of spoiled over weight 12 year olds while using an aim assist (360 & PS3) only to think your a pro afterwords is just....... meh'

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    34. Member Slimjimmn's Avatar
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      05-14-2012 09:48 PM #34
      just check the resistance of the fan, if its more then a couple ohm 2-4 (say 80ohm) the fan is shorted.

      you can check power with a t-pin tool.
      the car is on an inclined driveway and up on jack stands in the front only
      02 GTI 1.8t:> 42DD 3" turboback, BFI full stg1 mount kit, Evoms CAI, Forge boost hoses, Tacotaco sidemount, Ebay TIP, IE 2.0 coil conversion, IE manual tensioner, 20th front brake conversion, IE emissions delete, 42dd catch can, Koni STR.t & WRD sport springs, Samco Coolant hoses, SMF vr6 clutch kit.

    35. Member BassNotes's Avatar
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      05-15-2012 03:23 AM #35
      Quote Originally Posted by Slimjimmn View Post
      just check the resistance of the fan, if its more then a couple ohm 2-4 (say 80ohm) the fan is shorted.

      you can check power with a t-pin tool.
      A short would be an abnormally low resistance, actually.
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