I have a couple of DIY to share too...
No one has started this as a sticky yet, but we need it. I have a couple of DIY's that I need to turn into posts here for you guys. In the meanwhile, if any of you have step-by-step DIY's you'd like to share, lets make this the knowledge tank for us MK2 TT nutters!
OK, here is the first one, because someone has to de-virginize this thread, son!
Forge Motorsports OCT (OIL CATCH TANK)
1. Yank off the OEM accordion hose (orange arrow) that runs from the Intake manifold to the front PCV assembly. You'll need to pinch the clasps on both sides of the connector.
2. Next pop on the manifold block-off plug. (yellow arrow) Check to make sure the O-ring is properly seated in its groove before installing. We did this by holding the O-ring in place at the 12 o'clock position with a flathead screwdriver. Slightly twist the plug until when you look into the opening on the plug, the bolt holes have cleared the lip on the manifold.
3. Next, remove the front PCV plate assembly. First pull off the hose on the driver side, which is held in place with 4 "teeth". Remove the side teeth and the top tooth by gently lifting them up and over the lip on the nipple one at a time with your flat head screwdriver. When those are free of the lip, slide it off. This step is hard because the clip is very easy to break, so be careful and don't force it. After you've pulled the hose, remove the 4 T-25 torx screws (white arrows)holding the front PCV plate to the valve cover. Put these 4 screws aside as you will re-use them on the Forge PCV plate.
4. The OEM plate is then completely removed and will no longer be used, so you can set that aside. Place the Forge PCV plate against the valve cover and re-install using the 4 OEM screws (white arrows). Once installed and sitting flush reinstall the OEM PCV hose. (yellow arrow) This is a tight fit and in addition to some serious patience, you will want to guide the O-rings into the hole with the tip of your flat head screwdriver. You can also slip the supplied rubber hoses into place. (orange arrows)
5. The next step is to install the catch can on the aluminum motor mount housing. Simply back out the T-30 bolt in the motor mount housing and re-install the bolt through the bottom OCT bracket. Use the supplied secondary bolt to attach the top bracket to the vacant threaded hole that it aligns with on the top of the motor mount housing. (orange arrows)
6. Next step is to just run the supplied hoses from the Forge PCV plate to the corresponding nipple on the OCT. (orange arrows) The fitting on the right side of the plate will be connected to the right side nipple of the OCT. The fitting on the left will go to the left nipple on the OCT. Cut the hoses about a half an inch longer than the run needs to be to allow for the typical movement of the 2.0T engine. The fit was rather tight, almost a pressure fit on the PCV plate, but I used the supplied hose clamps on the OCT itself.
7. Finally, zip-tie your hose runs together (white arrows) to keep everything tidy, and to make sure the hoses stay out of the way of the front engine cover plug. Bam, you're done son! Now just watch the "view tube" periodically and use the drain plug fitting on the bottom of the OCT to drain it once the sludge finally starts to build up. Thanks again to my homie Sean (Uber_A3) for showing me the ropes on this one.
Modified by iModTTS at 12:49 PM 7/17/2009
Quote, originally posted by The Pretender » And what does it do for the engine. ?
It lengthens its useful life by cycling out sludge and contaminants. No HP/TQ gains with this mod. It's just smart to do to keep your engine healthy if you tend to drive hard, like I do. Preventative mod.
If you mean the actual cushion, it yanks up. Heres the DIY:
1. Grasp cushion firmly
2. Yoink that ish upward one corner at a time
3. Store it in your attic like old man Jason does
4. Enjoy the sound of your exhaust 100x more
You may send me a donation of your liking to my PayPal account
This is not a traditional DIY post, but I stumbled across it on the internet.
I totally didn't come up with this myself. That being said this is not legal advice, and I claim no responsibility for the outcome, should you attempt to try this at home.
So what if a fellow was to get a no front plate ticket in California (or elsewhere) and the fellow somehow forgot to get his ticket payed in time so it turned into a FTA? What if that fellow went to court and the night before, he "pre-dated" a check, wrote in the docket number and photocopied that plus the front of the citation? Now what if this kindly fellow informed the magistrate, that in good faith, he sent his payment and signed citation in earlier in the month and only had this photocopy he'd kept for his "financial" records?
Do you suppose the fellow would still be stuck with a $485- FTA (Failure To Appear) or would that fellow be looking at buying an exhaust with his savings after paying the $25- original fix it ticket? One must wonder.....
Now, if you get a fix-it-ticket for no-front-plate, the right thing to do is permanently affix the missing plate to your car. This way redlight cameras and or speed cameras can accurately identify you and issue you a citation. We all want to make sure that happens so we can operate within the confines of the laws which were created for our safety and the safety of our fellow motorists.
Some people who have european plates, or no plates and therefore no extra holes in the front plate filler piece. The other option, if you operate on a slightly mischievous level is to "front it" like so:
1. buy a pack of double sided emblem tape
2. tape the license plate in the frame,
3. buy two 1/2" flathead sheet metal screws and pop them through the top two holes
4. on the backside of the plate stick on two pieces of emblem tape with pilot holes punched into them to grab the threads on the plate and give the appearance of being bolted-up to the grille of the car
5. next strategically place larger pieces of the double-sided emblem tape to the back of your license plate and stick it on moments before getting your ticket signed off at the local friendly police department.
6. tear that f'n thing off within 60 seconds of pulling out of the PD parking lot. Home free, now enjoy your clean screw hole free front-end.
Of course I personally would never do this, because I have a healthy respect for the law and understand that they are just doing their job. I would never devise such a devious and unlawful work-around such as this, and you should not either.
Modified by iModTTS at 9:00 AM 7/24/2009
Quote, originally posted by A4 1.8 Turbo » you guys should get up the basic diy's for things like brakes and oil changes. Because we all know its a matter of time before people start asking about the basic stuff like that.
1. drain oil
2. remove filter
3. pour new oil
4. attached new filter
i guess i left out the key details like remove oil dain plug, and i never told you where to pour the new oil.....guess your oil changing days will have to wait
Quote, originally posted by speed51133! » no, the filter is no where near the sump....ill have to make a diy to put on the oil filter like the guy with the diy on "how to tape a license plate to your bumper" complete with 15 steps supported by annectodal evidence.
Yep this thread is not getting the involvement that I had hoped for.....
Just to give something back to the community, I’m new to the Audi world, and also new to the hate-love relationship with the 2.0TFSI engine. So I will say this is my way to say thank you to all for posting a lot of information.
So I’m going to just copy the link for a very good –at least the one I followed- DIY on oil change here in the forum, and some pictures of the one I just did a few days ago, hoping it will help someone.
I had to use a board beneath the ramp ...
I think the hardest part is to remove the splash cover:
Finally the filter cover
Drian plug tool, yeah right....
Do you really believe this oil has 3000 miles?
Quote, originally posted by tcardio » That is possibly the worst oil ever made for our engines!
Wow, please elaborate on your claim.
2012 Audi TTRS Coupe, Sepang Blue, Ti Pack/Sport Exhaust w/ Leather/Alcantra
Audi CNA Member # 44937
*** AUDIos Muchachos ***
OK new DIY time. This one is more practical and I was inspired to do this for BBLACK who is one of our forum users.
I use http://www.photobucket.com You can open a free account with them, and all you do is:
1. go to ("my albums") and click on it
2. then it gives you the option of ("choosing file") to add new pics off your desktop
3. then copy and paste the ("img code") into the body of your forum post
To post pics on Fourtitude select ("img code") Other forums may use a slightly different format such as ("html code")
This is from a forum overseas, but if you have the 3.2 or TTS and are looking for the EVOMS intake this will help you with your install. You just need to move the "UFO shaped" noisepipe section back towards the firewall on the TTS. More on that in Webisode 9ish
[DIY of EVOMS intake]
I dont have pics, but here is the breakdown since I just yoinked mine out. The rear seat and parcel shelf components weigh 56 lbs btw!
You need to pull the rear interior 1/4 panels to get to the lg. star torx bolts on either side of the rear seat back rest. It's not entirely easy, and then there is a 15mm socket needed to pull out the center brace which affixes under the rear seat for the seat belts. I don't have pics to share with you of the process since I pulled them out super quick before I dropped the car off for the next round of mods last week.
Hope this helps man.
Last edited by iMod.:R; 12-15-2010 at 12:09 PM.