They are great quality.
#1
Anyone running one of these?
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/me...C11CHI heard CXRacing FMIC's sometimes get cracked welds...
Also anyone have pics of their fmic's mounted with and/or without bumper on to see whether a bracket would help the FMIC see "more light of day" than usual lol
Family First
#2
They are great quality.
Need your timing belt done? PM me.
#3
Running their 28x7x2.5 on my 30# dizzy setup. Times and numbers are in my sig. It's working well. If the IC wasn't working the car wouldn't run what it does or put down what it does in high 80degree weather at only 12psi.Oh yeah, and they are cheap. I think mine was under $100 and so way the piping kit. Add another $80 in reducers, bends, bigger/smaller clamps et. and for under $300 your done
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Buy it from their ebay store. It's usually cheaper.
Modified by slc92 at 10:56 AM 8-3-2009
#4
I just bought one of these kits.
CX Racing Kit
#5
im also running their fmic and piping kit
#6
I'm using one. 2.5"x27"x7". Over 400hp 25 psi no issues
#7
Quote, originally posted by skaterazn » I'm using one. 2.5"x27"x7". Over 400hp 25 psi no issues Really? I'm planning on an obd2 swap and was wondering if my IC will be enough. I run the same one.
Maybe not ideal, but I only plan on having it at full throttle for 11.50 seconds
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#8
Quote, originally posted by slc92 » Really? I'm planning on an obd2 swap and was wondering if my IC will be enough. I run the same one.
Maybe not ideal, but I only plan on having it at full throttle for 11.50 seconds
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I'm also running meth. When i borke 400 it was on an outside dyno 90+ out facing the sun at 23psi. Only thing I have is a head spacer soI can see you hitting higher numbers.
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And if you can get the traction I don't see a problem with that time
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#9
i've heard good things about the cx intercoolersa buddy of mine ran one for a while on his vr-t when he was using the 42lb file, he changed it out for a treadstone when he upgraded to the c2 630 file... and the car makes ridiculous power 505whp/540wtq
I'm using a treadstone that is 8x22x3.5 with a 2.5 in/out
they aren't crazy expensive like $200-250 and they use a pretty efficient core.
If I remember right it is rated for 750+cfm
Modified by VR SEX at 5:11 PM 8-3-2009
-Andrew-
Turbine Mechanic
#10
Quote, originally posted by VR SEX » a buddy of mine ran one for a while on his vr-t when he was using the 42lb file, he changed it out for a treadstone when he upgraded to the c2 630 file... and the car makes ridiculous power 505whp/540wtq
Modified by VR SEX at 5:11 PM 8-3-2009Is he running the stage 3(630's w/ the 4" MAF housing, stock MAF element)
or stage 4 (630's w/ the PRO MAF)?
If I go obd2, not sure which route I wanna go.
#11
pro maf
-Andrew-
Turbine Mechanic
#12
Quote, originally posted by VR SEX » pro maf Gotcha.
#13
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]![]()
#14
so far so good... and stealth it, don't give your car buckteeth.
#15
it sticks out the bottom a little i messed my bumper up bad so the next one i will do will be a little more stealthy
#16
Looking good![]()
Don't sweat the fact that most of it isn't exposed to the air either. The more I read about intercoolers is that they are really heat sinks more than radiators. You aren't in boost for long periods of time but rather short bursts followed by periods of non boost. During boost the intercooler is really just absorbing heat from the intake charge(for the most part). It will dissipate that heat to the ambient air when you aren't in boost. Road race car maybe a different story, but street/strip, a 5 sec. pull here, a 15 sec. pull there and it's not all that important to have direct airflow.
I don't think I'd cut my bumper for 500whp. I'd just run a bigger heatsink(intercooler) to absorb the heat during the 9-11 sec. pull.
#17
yea it looks tight but i can stick my hand up and in front of the intercooler almost to the top
#18
I just started to install mine, I trimmed the bumper rebar, and plan on trimming the lower rad support to help air flow through the back of the intercooler. but mine sits with the bottom of the intercooler level with the bottom of the bumper opening. I'm not sure if I want to mount the intercooler from the top and bottom mounts or cut off the bottom mounts and just mount it from the top.
#19
Looks like how I did mine except I didn't have to touch the rebar. Mine fit's in between it and the rad, but I don't have A/C so if I ever add it back I'll probably have to cut the rebar like you did.I cut off the bottom mounting tabs and used the top ones. I ran L brackets and mounted it to the upper rad support so I can pull the front bumper on and off w/ out having to touch the IC or piping.
#20
Yea I really want to keep the ac so i figured some chopping of the rebar was going to happen if I wanted any airflow.
I guess ill cut my bottom tabs off so i can drop the intercooler down a bit more.
#21
I plan on cutting the rebar for my 3.5" core
I would like to have some airflow, but cannot justify hacking a eurobumper to do so
-Andrew-
Turbine Mechanic