how much boost can a stock 16v handle?

[Ho11ywood]

i got a stock 16v out of a 1990 passat and i want to boost it but im am not sure how much pressure the it can handle. Please help!

[antichristonwheels]

I wouldn't go above 5-6 psi with an intercooler...

[Ho11ywood]

What all do i need to do?

[antichristonwheels]

get one of these:

http://www.kineticmotorsport.c....html

[Ho11ywood]

I have everything i just want to know how much my 16v head can handle. I guess what im wondering is do i need to replace my springs and guides.

[sprocket007]

well, I think u need to do some research...these are a high compression engines to begin with...and old...if u wanna slap on a turbo and expect big things I think u will be disapointed...or just crank er up and let it go boom!

[Ho11ywood]

I already did some head work and i am doing research thats why i posted this forum. I replaced bad valves, i had it cleaned by a machine shop, the head ported, bigger cams and a 5 angle grind. I only have the 16v head, the engine block is a 2.0 out of an audi 80 (bubbleblock). My compression ratio is 8:5.1, the block is bullet proof. Im only worried about the head.

Modified by Ho11ywood at 6:23 AM 8-10-2009


Modified by Ho11ywood at 6:23 AM 8-10-2009

[SilentDawn]

Quote, originally posted by Ho11ywood »

i got a stock 16v out of a 1990 passat

Sorry, but your story has changed throughout this thread. First its stock and now its an Audi 3A block with a VW 16V head with performance work done on it.

Never just throw a turbo kit together and run it. You want to upgrade the fuel system. A higher flow fuel pump, run larger injectors and proper software that handle more HP than the turbo can push. NEVER run an FMU. Installing an intercooler is your choice now...But you had better keep the boost down until you install one. Too weak of a fuel system and lack of a way to adjust the ignition timing during boost is the main killer of a forced induction engine.

People that plan to just run low boost, and "half a$$" a turbo build are never happy. I've done it in my younger ages...I'm over it now. I get the proper funds together and do a FULL build to make it last...Its the only way to do a turbo build.

give us the specs of the turbo you plan to run and what else you already have. Then we can help you decide where to go with it and what else you need.



Modified by SilentDawn at 11:03 AM 8-10-2009

[Ho11ywood]

You guys obviously cant read. All i wanna know is how much psi a 16v head can handle. I replaced the lifters, valves, and cam shaft. The block doesnt matter. It doesnt matter anyways i called bahn brenner and they told me that i can run 25 psi daily with a stock 16v head.


Modified by Ho11ywood at 7:42 PM 8-10-2009

[Ho11ywood]

[scirocconaut]

Dude every day when I get on here I see people answering questions like idiots
Because they aren't open minded enough To read

Friend of mine in Gresham, OR
ran 25 psi on a 16v stock ported polished rebuilt 2.0 head
He broke a lot of transmissions drag racing but never a head

+1 to BBM I talk to them for advice every now and then
I'm thinking of a similar swap, or use a g60 bottom end i have laying around with different pistons
Because g60 block+ 16v = 7:5:1

[Bozwell]

I have everything i just want to know how much my 16v head can handle. I guess what im wondering is do i need to replace my springs and guides.

in just about every boosted engine ive seen grenade it was the bottom end that let go, not the head. ive seen 16v engines using arp head studs produce over 500bhp. the bottom ends however were far from stock.

the 1.8 16v c/r is 10:1. the 2.0 16v c/r is 10.8:1

with compression ratios that high youve gotta be really careful. timing control is absolutely critical. i would highly advise against using the stock CIS fuel injection system. on a budget id recommend the digifant1 setup from a corrado G60. i used this setup in my 16vT jetta and with the stock chip and 10psi of boost my a/f ratio was perfect, (measured w a wideband gauge) the engine ran nicely and made great power. the other option is an aftermarket standalone engine management. much more expensive but infinitely tunable. either way, theyre both much better for boost than CIS

as far as springs and guides, stronger valve springs arent necessary with stock cams however theyre not a bad idea to help eliminate valve float. for cams i wouldnt recommend anything bigger than just a euro intake cam. as for guides, if the head has alot of miles id recommend replacing them. again, under boost at high R's you want as much control over the valve train as possible. hope that answered some of your questions, good luck

[CrazyMonkey]

g60 block+ 16v = 7:5:1

The G60 is 8.0:1 as-is. The larger chamber volume in the 16V really drops the compression ratio. I calculate 6.7:1 using the dimensions found here...

[-RalleyTuned-]

Collin (iirc) from Tectonics says that any vw 4cyl block can take 20psi daily with no issues. This of course is assuming you have a solid engine in good shape, and good tuning.

Without detonation, stock rods can take over 400 hp without so much as a wince. the 16v has fairly high compression so you will need a programmable ignition and good intercooling to keep temps in range, and good tuner can tune so you are fine with high compression and pump gas @ 20psi or more. To have a bit more room for error though, using an ABA block with the stock 16v head will drop the compression to 8.5:1 and that combo can easily make over 300 hp and do it all day everyday