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    Thread: Granite's 1982 Scirocco Update Thread

    1. Member xenergy_one's Avatar
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      09-28-2009 08:43 PM #201
      Quote, originally posted by Granitethewolf »
      Well I decided to get off my ass and check my warm up regulator/fuel pressure regulator...
      Needless to say the Inlet (left side) is pretty damn plugged up. I sprayed both sides with carb cleaner very generously at least 5 times and let both screens soak. My Idle seems to have improved slightly but it all comes down to how it acts on my next cold start.

      It can only help.
      Two broken Sciroccos is one too many.

    2. Member Granitethewolf's Avatar
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      10-06-2009 07:37 AM #202
      I'm still around! Just been driving the rocco with no $ or time to fix/update anything else yet hehe.
      Well, I want to note that on my car when i first start it up with the engine cold the OXS and the BAT (I think) lights will stay on until i give it a little rev thats a bit over 1000 rpms then it stays off. Those lights only come on when the engine is cold.
      I talked to a friend of mine and he said that is because I have a good chance of having a bad Oxygen sensor, or it could be related to my exhaust leak that is right where the exhaust manifold meets the downpipe- the gasket is shot. That exhaust leak is most likely affecting the way my oxygen sensor is working and possibly one of the main causes of my cold start-stall, start-stall, and 3rd time around start-finally holds an idle that improves as it warms up issues.
      Let me know what ya guys think, I'm lovin this car and I want to get it running perfect hopefully before next spring so shes ready for a new paint job that is already all lined up

    3. Member Rannoch's Avatar
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      10-06-2009 09:13 AM #203
      You may have a bad O2 sensor but the OXS light is controlled by a box attached to your speedometer cable (look around the brake booster) that turns on the light every 30k miles.

    4. Member Granitethewolf's Avatar
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      10-06-2009 06:41 PM #204
      Quote, originally posted by Rannoch »
      You may have a bad O2 sensor but the OXS light is controlled by a box attached to your speedometer cable (look around the brake booster) that turns on the light every 30k miles.

      I reset the service box near the brake booster and I heard it click when I pushed the button in far enough but it didn't seem to do anything for my OXS and battery light that come on at start up but disappear when I rev over 1Kish rpms and dont turn back on until the next start up.
      I did play around with the oxygen sensor, i unplugged it while the car was running (it did not throw any lights on in the dash btw) and it didn't seem to do much of anything, it still ran and revved the same while warm.
      I dunno, couldn't hurt to replace the oxygen sensor tho. I still gotta pick up the gasket between the manifold and the flange or whatever its called and get that changed out some time soon.

    5. Member vwdaun's Avatar
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      10-06-2009 08:42 PM #205
      I wouldn't worry about changing the O2 sensor right now. The lights in the dash are semi-normal, one of mine does the same thing.

    6. Member Rannoch's Avatar
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      10-06-2009 08:50 PM #206
      The o2 sensor has no warning lights or anything. It's just a narrowband sensor. Don't worry about it for now.
      I must have missed the rev+light thing. That's more/less normal for these cars now. Both of mine do it.
      If you have the TB (toilet bowl) exhaust you might look into getting the older style dual downpipe.
      Slightly less restrictive. Mine was like $20 at a JY. Grab the flex pipe also when you do this.

    7. Member Granitethewolf's Avatar
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      10-07-2009 09:41 PM #207
      I got bored and decided to put together a little slideshow.
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ei8kI9dxj5c
      Took a look at my donut (flange gasket or whatever other names it has) and the clips are stretched way out and it leaks big time. Going to pick up a new donut gasket & some clips tomorrow and call around see how soon I can get it changed!

    8. Banned spooky24v's Avatar
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      10-07-2009 10:02 PM #208
      dude i wont your door cards dash and seats! so bad! lol i cant find blue anything anyware

    9. Member baupfhor's Avatar
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      10-08-2009 01:39 PM #209
      Quote, originally posted by Doug T »
      3) Replace the valve that is on the tank vent line near the fuel filler.
      It is known as the gravity valve or tip over valve. When you tip the car over it prevents gas from spilling out and catching fire. The problem with it is, it gets clogged with varnish and the plastic deteriorates. If that thing fails you will notice that filling your tank gets difficult. The other way you know it has failed is when your gas tank stops venting properly. A car your age should have this part replaced. It is very easy to replace. It is under the inner fender liner.

      Is there one on a mk1 rocco? My tank seems to build up a lot of pressure. My car sat for 6 years before i got it.
      Friends don't let friends say "Em kay"

      "Prius buyers are required to suck at life"

    10. Member Granitethewolf's Avatar
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      10-08-2009 05:19 PM #210
      Woot, picked up new flange clips and a new exhaust donut gasket to fix my exhaust leak. Rocco is sittin at the muffler shop awaiting the job which will be done tomorrow morning!
      *crosses fingers* hopefully with this fixed (fixing my back pressure) it should help my car run a lot better.

    11. Member Granitethewolf's Avatar
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      10-09-2009 07:38 PM #211
      Well I got the rocco back from the shop, she runs a decent bit quieter but as far as my cold start problems go nothings changed. It seems to ride a bit better from my back pressure going back up some, doesn't buck as much but still does of course.
      Guess all i can do is keep replacing parts that ive mentioned before to try and fix this cold start problem.

    12. Member xenergy_one's Avatar
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      10-09-2009 09:40 PM #212
      Quote, originally posted by Granitethewolf »
      Well I got the rocco back from the shop, she runs a decent bit quieter but as far as my cold start problems go nothings changed. It seems to ride a bit better from my back pressure going back up some, doesn't buck as much but still does of course.
      Guess all i can do is keep replacing parts that ive mentioned before to try and fix this cold start problem.

      Have you inspected your check valve? it's right on the fuel pump. If your check valve is bad, your fuel will drain down leaving a large air bubble in your fuel lines overnight, which = hard cold starts.
      Two broken Sciroccos is one too many.

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      10-09-2009 09:43 PM #213
      Would a leaky fuel injector result in the same thing (fuel pressure drop over time)?

    14. Member Granitethewolf's Avatar
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      10-10-2009 05:36 PM #214
      Quote, originally posted by xenergy_one »
      Have you inspected your check valve? it's right on the fuel pump. If your check valve is bad, your fuel will drain down leaving a large air bubble in your fuel lines overnight, which = hard cold starts.

      Check valve? When I took off my fuel pump I didn't see any valves, just a inlet that's held in by a hose clamp and the outlet is a banjo bolt that goes straight to the fuel line.
      Is the valve a actual part of the fuel pump or it separate? A picture would help.
      Edit- Never mind, I looked it up and it seems like its just a part that screws into either the inlet or outlet of the fuel pump. How can you tell if you've got a bad check valve?


      Modified by Granitethewolf at 5:18 PM 10-10-2009

    15. Member xenergy_one's Avatar
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      10-10-2009 09:15 PM #215
      Quote, originally posted by Granitethewolf »
      Check valve? When I took off my fuel pump I didn't see any valves, just a inlet that's held in by a hose clamp and the outlet is a banjo bolt that goes straight to the fuel line.
      Is the valve a actual part of the fuel pump or it separate? A picture would help.
      Edit- Never mind, I looked it up and it seems like its just a part that screws into either the inlet or outlet of the fuel pump. How can you tell if you've got a bad check valve?
      Modified by Granitethewolf at 5:18 PM 10-10-2009

      If you have a bosch fuel pump, the check valve will be removable. It is a simple ball valve that allows gas to flow one way but should shut off and not allow it to flow the other way. I was able to determine mine was bad by the fact that I could get air to flow through it both ways. Mine tried to seal but still had a trickle of air getting through it. If it looks fouled or rusty in any way, I would just replace it. Just one more cheap part to try before you start replacing other more expensive parts.
      Two broken Sciroccos is one too many.

    16. Member Granitethewolf's Avatar
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      10-12-2009 04:59 PM #216
      Here is how my rocco acts after sitting for a few hours (or overnight & longer), it almost seems to take more "restarts" the colder it is. This does NOT happen from a warm/hot start only cold.

      As you can see something happens after a couple restarts and the idle vastly improves, from there on the car does pretty well- its been like this ever since I got it drivable.
      Wow....can you say early snow? Yays for rocco content!




      Modified by Granitethewolf at 6:01 PM 10-12-2009
      Last edited by Granitethewolf; 12-21-2011 at 03:31 PM.

    17. Member Granitethewolf's Avatar
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      10-13-2009 10:02 PM #217
      *facepalm* Holy wow....

      The vac line leaving the intake manifold directly above the throttle cable in the picture....there is a big hole in it! Soldered that shut and lathered some liquid electrical tape over it for extra measure and what a WORLD of a difference!
      The car's sluggishness and "bucking" seems to have pretty much been eliminated!..well for now anyways Now im just going to have to wait until tomorrow morning to see if that big leak fixed my cold start woes!


      Modified by Granitethewolf at 9:23 PM 10-13-2009

    18. Member Granitethewolf's Avatar
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      10-14-2009 04:52 PM #218
      Well my cold start issue hasn't gone away but it improved...slightly lol.
      Going to change the cold start valve next chance I have some cash.

    19. Member 16VScirrocco88's Avatar
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      10-14-2009 05:09 PM #219
      well since you found one Vac Leak I would suspect you might have some other one's
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    20. Member vwdaun's Avatar
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      10-14-2009 05:54 PM #220
      Try cycling the key a couple times before cranking and see if that helps. That and / or blipping part throttle as the car fires. At least until you can get a new cold start valve installed.

    21. Member Rannoch's Avatar
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      10-14-2009 06:18 PM #221
      Quote, originally posted by Granitethewolf »
      Well my cold start issue hasn't gone away but it improved...slightly lol.
      Going to change the cold start valve next chance I have some cash.

      You can pick up JY valves for like $10. Any late 70s to mid/late 80s with CIS will have 'em.

    22. Member Granitethewolf's Avatar
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      10-14-2009 08:39 PM #222
      Quote, originally posted by Rannoch »
      You can pick up JY valves for like $10. Any late 70s to mid/late 80s with CIS will have 'em.

      Sadly no roccos seem to exist around the JYs around here, I figure Ill just buy a new one.

    23. Member vwdaun's Avatar
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      10-14-2009 11:30 PM #223
      There are no '80s vintage VWs in the yards? C'mon.... not even one old Golf? Fox?

    24. Member Granitethewolf's Avatar
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      10-14-2009 11:41 PM #224
      Quote, originally posted by vwdaun »
      There are no '80s vintage VWs in the yards? C'mon.... not even one old Golf? Fox?

      Ah, I misread, yeah yeah I got it now you mean basically anything with CIS thats a Vdub XD. Only problem there is I risk buying a valve that might not work or might already leak, id almost rather just play it safe and get a new one.

    25. Member xenergy_one's Avatar
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      10-14-2009 11:45 PM #225
      Have you tested your thermo-time switch?
      http://www.mirafiori.com/~thad/fi/thermot.html
      Two broken Sciroccos is one too many.

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