Granite's 1982 Scirocco Update Thread

[xenergy_one]

Quote, originally posted by Granitethewolf »

Bump! Well, could anyone show me what 2 terminals to jump in my fuse panel to force my fuel pump to run? I also have a multimeter to check & see if the fuel pump IS getting juice and just shot as well. I do have the $ for a Bentley manual...but the problem is I am in the process of moving the next few weeks- so I dont wana order one til I'm settled in lol.

You should get a Bentley. However, according to an earlier post, your layout is not covered by the Bentley. Here is what the Bentley has:

[Granitethewolf]

Quote, originally posted by xenergy_one »

You should get a Bentley. However, according to an earlier post, your layout is not covered by the Bentley. Here is what the Bentley has:

It almost does look like that floating socket that is empty according to this picture is supposed to be where the fuel relay is even though it doesnt say anything about the pigtail setup..hmm
I Still wonder what 2 wires to jump to get my fuel pump to run.

Also, not to stray from getting the car running- but can I remove my AC pump- just unplug it and unbolt it, rip the dead weight out without having it affect anything? is there any special procedure or can I just rip it out?


Modified by Granitethewolf at 10:09 PM 8-16-2009

[xenergy_one]

You going need someone that has experience with an 82' to walk you through just how to test that fuel pump. You could post a specific thread asking for help with this. Just some advice, most people that offer technical help on here are going to assume you have a Bentley.

I have never removed an a/c from a Scirocco but I doubt it is anything more than nuts, bolts and hoses. The interior bits might be hard to get to (under dash).

[Granitethewolf]

Well just a minute ago I ordered my Bentley, it should be here before my room mates and I move out in 2 weeks I hope.

I mostly want the AC unit gone from under the hood to free up some space, I'm not concerned about the interior parts. I just wana be sure the AC unit's bracket or a spot on the unit doesn't have an important belt tensioner on it.

I'm not too concerned about testing the fuel pump, I just want to be sure its getting power- I have a strong feeling that it wasn't putting out the right pressure for the CIS system to function the last time the car was running. Chances are that I am going to end up putting a new pump in anyway. I really should test for voltage at the current fuel pump- I mean it could be getting voltage and the pump could be shot for all I know.


Modified by Granitethewolf at 6:39 AM 10-27-2009

[vwdaun]

Quote, originally posted by Granitethewolf »

Well just a minute ago I ordered my Bentley, it should be here before my room mates and I move out in 2 weeks I hope.

Excellent!

Quote, originally posted by Granitethewolf »

I mostly want the AC unit gone from under the hood to free up some space, I'm not concerned about the interior parts. I just wana be sure the AC unit's bracket or a spot on the unit doesn't have an important belt tensioner on it.

Will removing the a/c compressor be a problem for lining up pulleys? There are numerous set-ups for different belts driving different parts on these cars, and finding the correct pulley to "shim" the belts can be a hassle.

Quote, originally posted by Granitethewolf »

I'm not too concerned about testing the fuel pump, I just want to be sure its getting power- I have a strong feeling that it wasent putting out the right pressure for the CSI system to function the last time the car was running. Chances are that I am going to end up putting a new pump in anyway. I really should test for voltage at the current fuel pump- I mean it could be getting voltage and the pump could be shot for all I know.

It's been a looong time since I've had an '82 but lemme take a stab. If all you want to do is check voltage at the pump, I would seriously consider first disconnecting the electrical connections at the pump. The reason for disconnecting @ the fuel pump is that it is likely seized and (should) blow the fuse when you install the jumper in the fusebox. There still is a question about what relay is *actually* the fuel pump relay on your car... you're looking to jumper terminal 30 and 87 together - they're the two "big" lugs on the relay. Where does the pigtail wiring run to? The back of the fuseblock or another hidden relay? I would check the pigtail first....


Modified by vwdaun at 9:35 AM 8-17-2009

[Granitethewolf]

Well I finished flushing my fuel tank, glad to have that finished!

Anyway today I also managed to remove the fuel filter....barely- DAMN was that hell to remove the fuel lines on it, I swear it must have been the original filter that came on the car! I also turned the key to run and also cranked it a little to see if any fuel would come out from the fuel line that went into the inlet of the filter and as to be expected- nothing!
I have a new filter that should be coming in tomorrow.

Well, I also had a little time to play around with the fuel relay, I unplugged the pigtail and tried plugging the fuel relay into socket L where the pigtail was. That didnt do a damn thing as far as getting the fuel pump to run. So next thing to try is to jump the 2 terminals together for the fuel pump to see if it will run on that.
When I jump the 2 terminals together what should I use?? Just a piece of wire or wha? Should I jump it with the pigtail on or off

Thinking it over....man this seems to be more and more of a bad fuel pump/fuel pump relay issue. It would be crazy if the guy who had it before me kept having all the problems (IE- Losing power, harder starts, Periodically stalling at idle) he had with it because the fuel pump was dieing.

[Granitethewolf]

Okay I just got done tinkering around with the fuel pump and I noted a couple of things:
1- I have confirmed that my fuel relay works- POSSIBLY/kinda I dunno. I can not only hear- but feel it clicking when I turn the key to on but I dont get any voltage shown at the pump until I begin to crank the engine.

2- The fuel pump DOES work... I unhooked it from the car compleatly and hooked up a low amp battery charger to it and it buzzed nicely.... I even dipped the inlet into a little bit of gas and the sucker sprayed me good!

As I mentioned before, the fuel pump doesn't show voltage until you begin to crank the engine- is this normal? This fuel system doesn't prime before you crank the engine? I would have guessed that the fuel pump should be running all the time when the key is on the "run" position?


Modified by Granitethewolf at 8:48 PM 8-18-2009

[vwdaun]

Quote, originally posted by Granitethewolf »

As I mentioned before, the fuel pump doesn't show voltage until you begin to crank the engine- is this normal? This fuel system doesn't prime before you crank the engine? I would have guessed that the fuel pump should be running all the time when the key is on the "run" position?

No. On some of the earlier cars (my '81 included) the pump does not prime before the car is cranked.

Ok, so now that you've confirmed you're pumping fuel, time to reinstall the pump and work up the line. And also consider checking to see if you're getting spark.

[Granitethewolf]

I think before I re-install it back into the car I'm going to attach a hose to the inlet and dip it in my gas can, hook the outlet back up to the main fuel line and run the pump off a low amp car charge to see if fuel gets to the fuel filter and the rest of the fuel system- see if I can start it at all like that.

I have the fuel filter removed so i can tell if the pump is getting gas up to the engine bay or not. Ive had it removed for a while now even when the pump was still installed on the car and I just could not get any gas to come out of the "inlet" hose that went into the fuel filter while it was on the car.

I know its getting something for a spark because the car starts up and almost instantly sputters to a stall if i spray starter fluid into the intake manifold.

My Bentley should come in Thursday according to the UPS tracking #

I plan on picking up a much needed work light so I can see what I'm doing under the car better lol, I'm also going to pick up a new fuel hose to go between the tank and fuel pump- Mine was kinda squishy and had bad looking ends.


Modified by Granitethewolf at 6:12 AM 8-19-2009

[xenergy_one]

It sounds like you are getting close to hearing that thing run. If the fuel filter is really that old, it could have been clogging up prior to it being parked.

[Granitethewolf]

Quote, originally posted by xenergy_one »

It sounds like you are getting close to hearing that thing run. If the fuel filter is really that old, it could have been clogging up prior to it being parked.

The fuel filter napa gave me was wrong so I had to return it, goona check autozone to see what they have in.

Also I forgot to note that the fuel line between the tank & fuel pump was super squishy and the inner-lineing was sucked in- so I dont think the fuel pump was getting much fuel if any anyway.

Today I picked up new fuel hose and a work light so I can see what im doing better under the car. I also ordered 10 8amp and 10 16amp ceramic fuses.

Be awesome if I get her to run today, or do something anyway

[Rannoch]

Filter for an 88 16v. It'll work with your 82. Plus it's the cheapest via online catalog.

http://www.napaonline.com/Mast...ld%29

The 16v came with a ~3.2 inch diameter filter; you're car may have come with the smaller 1.5ish inch diameter filter. The 2 are interchangeable. Just need to get the larger mounting clamp.
---

It's good that you are replacing that piece of hose between tank and pump. The inner lining can crack and large chunks can get pulled into the pump. Ask me how I know.

[Granitethewolf]

Quote, originally posted by Rannoch »

Filter for an 88 16v. It'll work with your 82. Plus it's the cheapest via online catalog. http://www.napaonline.com/Mast...ld%29 The 16v came with a ~3.2 inch diameter filter; you're car may have come with the smaller 1.5ish inch diameter filter. The 2 are interchangeable. Just need to get the larger mounting clamp.

The fuel filter napa gave me looked just like that. The fitting extension (which is NOT removable) on the end of it as too big for 1 of my fuel bolts, I have 2 different sized fuel bolts and the bigger of the 2 fit both ends which wasn't right.

[Granitethewolf]

ITS AAAALLLIIIIVEEEEEE....kinda

Well now I know it starts and runs-kindaish just need to get it cleaned up and running right!

Here is a list of things I'm going to check:
1- Spark Plugs & Wires (check for worn or corroded plugs, also check to see if any are wet from not fireing)
2- Tomorrow my new fuel filter should be coming in as I mentioned, might make a small difference but kinda doubtful.
3- CIS fuel distributor might be stuck open causing fuel to flow only to 2 cylinders..
4- Fuel injectors might be gummed up.

Thanks for all your help everyone

[petebee]

Way to go! Now hopefully I can get mine running, too

[Granitethewolf]

Quote, originally posted by petebee »

Way to go! Now hopefully I can get mine running, too

Thanks, and I hope your able to get yours running as well!

Now tomorrow I gotta get my new fuel hose attached to my fuel tank & fuel pump and re-install it into its little foam holder and bracket it back into the car. After that I gotta put in my new fuel filter (if its in tomorrow) and make sure it will run just as it does with it sipping from my gas can.

[vwdaun]

Awesome news! You're making progress, keep up the good work.

[tmechanic]

I want the interior.
Nice find.

[xenergy_one]

Nice job

A note about that fuel line. I almost forgot that mine had the same problem. Someone had put a straight piece of fuel line in place of the curved piece that comes stock. This made the line bind and collapse. For the long term, you want to get the proper line there if you didn't already.

[Granitethewolf]

Quote, originally posted by xenergy_one »

Nice job A note about that fuel line. I almost forgot that mine had the same problem. Someone had put a straight piece of fuel line in place of the curved piece that comes stock. This made the line bind and collapse. For the long term, you want to get the proper line there if you didn't already.

Oh I knew the problems of trying to use a straight piece of line so I bought the closest curved line I could find at napa and cut it to the right size

[Granitethewolf]

Sooo I discovered I had a dirty CIS plunger after I got done re-installing the fuel pump in its proper place with my new hose to feed it-

And this....well I'm still dumbfounded by the results after cleaning it...

[xenergy_one]

It's really cool to hear that thing running so well already. Congrats!

[Granitethewolf]

Quote, originally posted by xenergy_one »

It's really cool to hear that thing running so well already. Congrats!

Thank you very much for helping me along the way and giving me tips xenergy

Now I get to stick some real $ into it-
-Oil change!!!
-New fuel filter (already paid for just waiting on it to get here )
-Change the thermostat just to be safe,
-New spark plug wires (I forgot to mention today I changed out the old spark plugs for some barely used Bosch platinum +2's!)
-New air filter,
-Install my pioneer deck & then invest in some decent speakers to replace the current ones.
-Give her a MUCH NEEDED bath
-and lastly to figure out why my headlights work but my cluster is not lighting up X.X

[xenergy_one]

Quote, originally posted by Granitethewolf »

-and lastly to figure out why my headlights work but my cluster is not lighting up X.X

Your cluster may just need the grounds cleaned up. I think they are next to the fuse box.

[vwdaun]

Quote, originally posted by Granitethewolf »

Now I get to stick some real $ into it- -Oil change!!! -New fuel filter (already paid for just waiting on it to get here ) -Change the thermostat just to be safe, -New spark plug wires (I forgot to mention today I changed out the old spark plugs for some barely used Bosch platinum +2's!) -New air filter, -Install my pioneer deck & then invest in some decent speakers to replace the current ones. -Give her a MUCH NEEDED bath -and lastly to figure out why my headlights work but my cluster is not lighting up X.X

I might also suggest a flush & fill of the brake fluid and coolant (especially since you're changing the thermostat anyway.)

I'm trying to figure out what the "whine" is. Check the timing belt covers to see if they're rubbing on the belt anywhere.

Do any of the lights in the center console light up? It could just be that the bulbs in the cluster are blown, not uncommon at this age.

[xenergy_one]

Quote, originally posted by vwdaun »

I'm trying to figure out what the "whine" is. Check the timing belt covers to see if they're rubbing on the belt anywhere.

My car had a 'whine' sound until I discovered the timing belt was too tight causing the bearing to squeal. The bearing could also be going bad.

[Granitethewolf]

Quote, originally posted by xenergy_one »

My car had a 'whine' sound until I discovered the timing belt was too tight causing the bearing to squeal. The bearing could also be going bad.

Yeah That whine to me sounded like the timing belt was too tight, I didnt think of any bearings possibly going out though- but what bearing? Water Pump//Idler Pully??

And thanks, I always figured that was a ground post to the right of the fuse panel, I'll have to check over the grounds on it, I have a feeling that my cluster isnt lighting up because the lights inside of it are just too old since everything else works in my car.

[xenergy_one]

Quote, originally posted by Granitethewolf »

Yeah That whine to me sounded like the timing belt was too tight, I didnt think of any bearings possibly going out though- but what bearing? Water Pump//Idler Pully?? And thanks, I always figured that was a ground post to the right of the fuse panel, I'll have to check over the grounds on it, I have a feeling that my cluster isnt lighting up because the lights inside of it are just too old since everything else works in my car.

The bearing I am talking about is the timing belt tension bearing. You have to take the cover off to see it.

[callawayrocco82]

Quote, originally posted by Corrado1900T »

I am sooooo jealous. I wish my 82's underside looked that nice.

HAHA mine does!!!!

[baupfhor]

I love the blue interior! Im too drunk to read the posts and my computer is too slow to view the video. congrats on getting it running. Im going to post vids of my 79 16v running tomorrow.

[Granitethewolf]

Today I changed the oil & the fuel filter and I went for a glorious 1st ride!

So I rode around for a little over half an hour, went to the gas station and put in a little mid-grade fuel, went to my parents place to show them the rocco was running (and they wernt even home lol) and then I went and showed the guy I bought it from, he was happy to see it going again!

Anyway here are a few things I noticed-

When I'm driving if i go over 2000 rpm's my oil light (I believe) blinks and a buzzer goes off in my dash, that same light & buzzer will also go off if I try to honk the horn, which doesn't work- it just makes a little weak beep that can hardly be heard at all. I think my oil pressure is fine, I don't hear any knocking or anything.... I have a feeling its gotta be something wire related from it sitting so long.

Also, how do i adjust the car's warm idle? My rocco seems to idle a bit too low in my opinion. The bentley seems to show a bunch of different things to adjust.
EDIT- I think I found it, looks like a little 8mm bolt thats on the back of the intake manifold near the throttle and it seemed to help the idle a bit when I turned it to the right.


Modified by Granitethewolf at 9:20 PM 8-23-2009

[xenergy_one]

Quote, originally posted by Granitethewolf »

EDIT- I think I found it, looks like a little 8mm bolt thats on the back of the intake manifold near the throttle and it seemed to help the idle a bit when I turned it to the right.

That's it. I think that is the only place to adjust the idle unless there is something wrong.

just for fun, take some carb cleaner and spray it around your injectors, idle screw, and various vacuum lines, if your idle revs up, you have a vacuum leak. I would be surprised if you didn't find a couple. On the other hand you are extremely lucky ($100 scirocco) so maybe you won't find any.

[Granitethewolf]

Well, today I successfully drove my car to work and back
I added a little bit more oil and my buzzer/oil light doesn't come on any more at whatever rpm I'm at. I also installed my radio with 3/4 success, I cant get the front right speaker to make sound ><.

Anyway I have a couple of questions-
-From cold my car likes to start-stall-start-stall a couple of times til it hardly manages an idle on 2/4 cylinders, if I wait a little bit it begins to idle normally.
-It also drives a bit rougher when its not fully warmed up, it likes to sputter and miss often while cruising and trying to accelerate lightly, the sputtering clears up if I accelerate at 3/4+ throttle. The sputtering also happens when its fully warmed up just not as bad as when the engine is cold.

Is there any type of fuel system cleaner you guys recommend that I can just mix with gas, or any other suggestions of things to do to get it running better?
Edit- When I pick up some new spark plug wires I will pick up a new cap & rotor- would be so funny if my cap & rotor was bad causing my hesitation & hard starts!


Modified by Granitethewolf at 9:25 PM 8-24-2009

[xenergy_one]

I am pretty sure your tune-up will solve some of those issues.
I know that chevron techron fuel injector cleaner is approved by bosch and it works.

Other things that could cause those problems:
vacuum leaks < most likely
bad check valve
leaky/dried out fuel injector seals
rust in fuel lines

[vwdaun]

Quote, originally posted by Granitethewolf »

Well, today I successfully drove my car to work and back I added a little bit more oil and my buzzer/oil light doesn't come on any more at whatever rpm I'm at.

Just out of curiosity, what viscosity oil did you put in? VW engines like thicker oil - generally 10w40 or 20w50 in the summer. Too thin an oil will cause the buzzer / light to come on because of low oil pressure, just like it's supposed to.

Quote, originally posted by Granitethewolf »

Anyway I have a couple of questions- -From cold my car likes to start-stall-start-stall a couple of times til it hardly manages an idle on 2/4 cylinders, if I wait a little bit it begins to idle normally. -It also drives a bit rougher when its not fully warmed up, it likes to sputter and miss often while cruising and trying to accelerate lightly, the sputtering clears up if I accelerate at 3/4+ throttle. The sputtering also happens when its fully warmed up just not as bad as when the engine is cold. Edit- When I pick up some new spark plug wires I will pick up a new cap & rotor- would be so funny if my cap & rotor was bad causing my hesitation & hard starts!

It could easily be any of these things, and don't forget the spark plugs while you're doing the tune-up.

As stated, vacuum leaks are a big one, and these cars are pretty sensitive to them. Injector o-ring seals are a good one for causing poor running when cold but a little better as the temps come up - they heat up and expand a bit thereby closing the leak.