The 010 Lost Knowledge Thread

[B4S]

If anyone out there is interested, I figure it might be nice to have a place to put all the snippets of info that have been floating around about the 010. I know a few of us really like that box...but we all only have a small piece of the puzzle. I recently bought a nice little factory 010 troubleshooting manual at a swap meet, and there are some interesting bits in it. Here's the link to download a PDF:
http://www3.sympatico.ca/tchaa...e.pdf

It's a pretty secretive topic, the 010, but maybe it's finally time to let the world know what a few of us already do. I'll be updating this with as much info as I can find/have already, in order to further the research. I've got information about changing the shift points, a nice rebuild manual, and pictures of a box torn down. I'll also look in to cross-referencing the various boxes for useful parts that can be swapped...but that might be a big task for one guy.

Cheers all...and if you care, share, please .

[CoolAirVw]

Nice...

[Mr. Tickles]

I put a reverse pattern full manual valve body in one not too long ago. It's pretty cool to say the least. Input shafts seem to be the weak point though.

[B4S]

Nice. Any info on the valve body? Who built it? That's the missing link that keeps me from converting fully. My old G60 3-speed just didn't shift hard enough and I don't have enough knowledge of the flow through the VB to play around. I know that the 'E' gearboxes that were found in some of the auto MkII diesels had some extra bits in their valve bodies, but not sure if that's any help. I'd DEFINITELY pay for a manual valve body .

[Mr. Tickles]

The full manual bypasses basically everything (accumulator, governor, 1/2 and 2/3 shift regulators, kickdown, etc) and comes with a higher system pressure spring. With the higher pressure the pump drive center also needs to be upgraded to a chromoly one. Everything else was a basic rebuild kit except for the forward drum chromoly center (optional for lower power) and a kevlar lined band. I also swapped in the 087 5" direct clutch drum and shell.

The one I installed was $500 for the valve body (bolt on, no modification needed) and the chromoly pump drive was $60. Modified forward drum was $300 and the kevlar band was ~30.

The valve body looked pretty basic, so I imagine it could be reverse engineered pretty easily. I'll have to dig up the info on where we sourced the parts if you want to spend that kind of money.

[B4S]

I do indeed want to spend that kind of money .
Thanks for the info, it's nice to see that it's not insanity to think that the 010 can actually be modified properly. I know IPT does 010 stuff...but I'm not sure about how deep they can go. Last I talked to them, they mentioned a porsche 4-pinion planetary being used, but nothing about the VB or band.

[Mr. Tickles]

The four gear planetary is the last step since they are hard to come by, but if you have one then definitely swap it, or sell it to me .

The guy we used was transaxleengineering.com. He's very knowledgeable about the planetary section, but isn't familiar with the VW final drive portion as he's never used it.

[B4S]

HOLY CRAP!
check the pic on the homepage
http://transaxleengineering.com/index.html

Dude, thanks a MILLION for this info. I'm switching directions on my project, wish I hadn't thrown out that TJ code box I had . All I've got is an older EQ now, short ratios .

[Mr. Tickles]

If you're adding the audi parts make sure the gear ratios between the two donors match (just the planetaries, not the final drive), otherwise the reverse planetary and carrier won't fit. Basically, the Audi carrier is different from the VW one, and you'll have to use the VW one to mate to the final drive case.

[B4S]

I'd probably start out slow, and just use the stock EQ rabbit box I have here, with the VB and pump drive, since I'm still naturally aspirated. After an overhaul of course, no way I'm going to try a manual VB on a car with 26 year old clutches . The diff/transaxle seal is still good, so I don't forsee any extreme issues inside the box. I just wish I hadn't pitched my long-ratio box .

[quartermain]

i printed out a copy of your manual. it'll go into my 'obscure VW tech' binder. thanks for sharing the info.

[B4S]

No problem, glad to help .

[B4S]

A lot of 010 performance knowledge can be gleaned from the Vanagon crowd, as they routinely swap WRX motors in, using the 010 as their gearbox. Here's a nice little forum, it's small but it has some good info if you dig.
http://www.vwrx.com/forum/index.php

[B4S]

A mod for the stock governor, to change the shift points. Keep in mind this mod is for the Vanagon tranny, which has much lower shift points than the Mk1/2 boxes. The same theory applies though, take a bit off the weights and see where it shifts at WOT. Take off too much...and you'll be looking for a new governor .

[B4S]

Some pictures of adding ATF cooler ports to a non-cooler port case. Big thanks to Rabbit6 for sharing! .
Return

Feed

[Rabbit6]

I've achieved quick shifts by disabling the two *EDIT* accumulators. I haven't monkeyed with line pressure or anything like that yet, and really at this point, don't find the need to. It works that well already. Currently operating a turbo G60 at 10 psi w/ assymetric sport cam and techtonics chip.
My first trans snapped it's turbine shaft (input shaft) while two footing it at the tree at my local drag strip. The second one wouldn't upshift. This one works awesome!

The two fittings for fluid cooling are 1/8 NPT. The supply fitting is filled with solder and has a 1/8" orifice drilled through the solder. I might enlargen that slightly, but I believe that running this setup without an orifice would divert too much fluid from the valve body.


Modified by Rabbit6 at 2:42 AM 8-21-2009

[B4S]

Disabling the governors how?

[Rabbit6]

post edited. accumulators, not govenors. damn nighshift brain!

[B4S]

That's a good tip about the return orifice, makes sense .

[Rabbit6]

oops! don't make that mistake... the orifice definitely needs to be put in the supply fitting, not the return. If installed in the return, then the lines and cooler will be subject to full, unregulated pressure from the pump!

[B4S]

DOH...reading pwns me today.
Supply line, gotcha.

[rychas1]

following...

[rjev]

this thread is awesome. mostly over my head but awesome. it's freakin sweet to see that there's actually a few 010 enthusiasts floating around in interwebland. that and the idea of a WRX motor in a vanagon just makes me all warm and fuzzy inside.

[Toadster]

i don't get it... where's all the info?

[B4S]

Yeah...it doesn't seem to be drawing the sharers out of their hidey holes. I know there is a ton of info out there...but nobody is sharing .

[umeng2002]

Sorry to jack this thread, but I figure any 010 info should go here.

I had my 010 rebuilt about 20,000 miles ago. It really only needed a new diff, but they had the thing apart anyway.

A few months ago it started to take about 10 seconds for the car to move forward when you put the selector in Drive, 1, or 2 position.

Now it takes like 2 minutes.

I've changed the fluid 4 times to get most of the old fluid out, but that didn't really work.

It goes into Reverse as fast as it should.

Any ideas?

thanks.

Oh and once it finally gets going, it totally fine. Once the tranny gets cold, it takes takes 2 minutes for drive to engage.

[CoolAirVw]

Probably a pressure loss. Probably gonna need to be pulled out. Measure line pressure with a gauge.

[Rabbit6]

Quote, originally posted by umeng2002 »

A few months ago it started to take about 10 seconds for the car to move forward when you put the selector in Drive, 1, or 2 position. Now it takes like 2 minutes. I've changed the fluid 4 times to get most of the old fluid out, but that didn't really work. It goes into Reverse as fast as it should. Any ideas? thanks. Oh and once it finally gets going, it totally fine. Once the tranny gets cold, it takes takes 2 minutes for drive to engage.

So it operates normally, once it's warmed up and achieves drive finally?

Perhaps some crud was left inside the trans during overhaul that finally made it's way into the valve body. Then, while it's cold and tolerances are closer (steel valves in aluminum bores) a shift valve is getting stuck part way.
If you're feeling advernturous, remove the valve body and disassemble it. Clean it and each individual piece with brake cleaner and lint-free rags. reassemble the way it came apart (verifying with bentley diagrams in case the overhauler buggered something up.)

No special tools needed. a 13mm socket, a 10 mm socket a phillips #2 is it. A spotless, dust-free work area, of course, and about 2 cans of brake cleaner. Get a piece of styrofoam and draw the outline of the valve body on it, life sized. Take a bunch of toothpicks to make little corrals in each component position on the VB outline. As you disassemble, put each piece in the correct place and orientation. Once the VB is totally naked (watch out for the little valve balls) use an old toothbrush or industrial plastic bristle brush and brake cleaner to make both halves and the seperator plate look like new.
Then clean each individual component lube with fresh ATF and install into the proper location. Reassemble the valve body halves, clean the filter screen and put it all back together using the bentley's torques.
See what that does. If no difference, there's probably a damaged seal on the work piston somewhere. (which could affect pressure as mentioned above)

This isn't a difficult job, but you must be extremely conscientious of PERFECT cleanliness and how everything came apart.


Modified by Rabbit6 at 10:38 AM 2-14-2010

[umeng2002]

Quote, originally posted by Rabbit6 »

So it operates normally, once it's warmed up and achieves drive finally? Perhaps some crud was left inside the trans during overhaul that finally made it's way into the valve body. Then, while it's cold and tolerances are closer (steel valves in aluminum bores) a shift valve is getting stuck part way. If you're feeling advernturous, remove the valve body and disassemble it. Clean it and each individual piece with brake cleaner and lint-free rags. reassemble the way it came apart (verifying with bentley diagrams in case the overhauler buggered something up.) No special tools needed. a 13mm socket, a 10 mm socket a phillips #2 is it. A spotless, dust-free work area, of course, and about 2 cans of brake cleaner. Get a piece of styrofoam and draw the outline of the valve body on it, life sized. Take a bunch of toothpicks to make little corrals in each component position on the VB outline. As you disassemble, put each piece in the correct place and orientation. Once the VB is totally naked (watch out for the little valve balls) use an old industrial plastic bristle toothbrush and brake cleaner to make both halves and the seperator plate look like new. Then clean each individual component lube with fresh ATF and install into the proper location. Reassemble the valve body halves, clean the filter screen and put it all back together using the bentley's torques. See what that does. If no difference, there's probably a damaged seal on the work piston somewhere. (which could affect pressure as mentioned above) This isn't a difficult job, but you must be extremely conscientious of PERFECT cleanliness and how everything came apart.

thanks, I was thinking something along those lines. It does drive perfectly fine once warmed up. I just didn't know what was involved in removing the valve body.

[CoolAirVw]

Trans brake and cryo'd input shaft anyone?

[rychas1]

high stall TQ, cryo'd input shaft, and trans brake? God, i miss my 16v.

[DubbinChris]

The idea of this thread is a great one. Hopefully everyone will chime in their info.

I currenly have three Quantums with two of them having the 010 trans in them. One being a TD and having the version with the "E" mode.

I'd love to see some info on the interchangability of various 010.

For example I understand that often the final drive is really the only thing that make many of the transmissions different and the rest can be interchanged to fair degree.

[CajunSpike]

I'm pretty decent mechanically, but have not touched a tranny other than to swap it out. I currently have a 92 with 3 speed auto. Sometimes, once the engine warms up, the tranny hesitates between the 2/3 shift. If its hesitating, you can take your foot off the gas and then it will shift. Cold its fine...but once its warmed up(and not always), this will happen.

Whats the thing to do for this?

[umeng2002]

What are the signs of a bad accumulator piston?

[sec914]

just picked up a 86 cabriolet with a trans that is puking fluid out of the vent port. happened after the previous owner changed the fluid and cleaned the screen any ideas? original problem was leaking pan gasket.