The 010 Lost Knowledge Thread

[LA7VJetta]

what he said^ MOAR info please

[VWtuner-nl]

I put a reverse pattern full manual valve body in one not too long ago. It's pretty cool to say the least. Input shafts seem to be the weak point though.

I`ll donate you some money, if you open up that valve body and supply me with pictures and requested info after looking at supplied pictures.

[LA7VJetta]

bump

[Mr. Tickles]

I would, but I'm out of the country for and indefinite amount of time. I'm sure the stock valve body could be modified to make it fully manual.

also, anyone that has run a manual valve body, what shifter did you use, and did you still have engine breaking in first and second?

Used the stock shifter.

just saw this thread.My dad and me have a very built 8v drag rabbit wish this trans in it.
We have modified the trans(the valve body and governor mainly).IT has held up to 100+ 7000rpm launches.This a great trans has no problem shifting at 7800.

How are you getting a stall that high and not ruining the converter?

[LA7VJetta]

anyone ever cam an automatic? did it work well?

[B4S]

A buddy of mine did, responded the same as any manual car would.

[LA7VJetta]

A buddy of mine did, responded the same as any manual car would.

what size cam? so no stalling at stop lights?

[B4S]

It was a 270* IIRC, something mild-ish since it was his wife's DD. No stalling that I know of, he probably would have gotten his ass kicked if it had .

[LA7VJetta]

It was a 270* IIRC, something mild-ish since it was his wife's DD. No stalling that I know of, he probably would have gotten his ass kicked if it had .

so a 288 might work in a 3 speed?

[CajunSpike]

What are the signs of a bad accumulator piston?

Capable mechanic but tranny neophyte. Anybody got a better explanation how to fix this or website where I can read up on this?

[rjev]

so a 288 might work in a 3 speed?

I'd like to know this as well. I'm thinking about a worked head with one of these in it for my bish.

[LA7VJetta]

I'd like to know this as well. I'm thinking about a worked head with one of these in it for my bish.

i have a big valve head, and 288 cam sitting here so that is why I am asking

[Rabbit6]

daskoupe is a washout. I think he's bullshyting about that transmission. Doesn't want to give out any info.

[Rabbit6]

here's a couple vids of my auto rabbit wasting some rubber.
Shifts into 2nd during the burnout.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gV5-L3IVt_w
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WWWPn5pB8Gc

[B4S]

I love those videos .
I just finished up my turbo conversion, and over the winter I'll be building up an 010 for it. Got a MkII box for free the other week, but the budget for anything big is gone for the year . I'm torn between the Rabbit6 accumulator mods, and a full manual VB .

[LA7VJetta]

I love those videos .
I just finished up my turbo conversion, and over the winter I'll be building up an 010 for it. Got a MkII box for free the other week, but the budget for anything big is gone for the year . I'm torn between the Rabbit6 accumulator mods, and a full manual VB .

manual VB

[Rabbit6]

as long as the MVB makes the tranny shift fast, that'd be cool... if you don't mind ALWAYS shifting. I kinda like letting it do the work.

[LA7VJetta]

just wanted to say, Bars Leaks 2 part auto transmission fix worked very well in my car.

[Mr. Tickles]

as long as the MVB makes the tranny shift fast, that'd be cool... if you don't mind ALWAYS shifting. I kinda like letting it do the work.

The shifting (at least in the one I built) is instantaneous.

And to an earlier question, yes engine braking is still there.

[LA7VJetta]

The shifting (at least in the one I built) is instantaneous.

And to an earlier question, yes engine braking is still there.

ok cool, cause I heard the some guys running MVB's in GM transmissions say that engine braking in first and second is non existent.

[B4S]

Yeah, a buddy with a MVB in his Omni GLH turbo (auto swap), has no problems with engine braking. The dodge MVB still seems to regulate pressure vs. RPM though, so his low-speed shifts aren't super hard. I'm willing to put up with full pressure shifts at all times, if it means I get the lovely automatic-tranny-turbo-spool sound .

[motorcarman]

rabbit 6
I have a question about the accumulator piston spring and threaded block plug. It disables the pressure port for readings but can't the spring have a solid rod installed in the center to prevent the piston from moving or can the spring be eliminated and just let the plastic piston sit on the valve body so there is no movement?? (no accumulator) Or a solid rod altogether??

I have a 1982 Rabbit with a CR diesel, 5 speed manual (good condition, dailey driver). I have a 1985 Jetta GL with 341,000 miles (owned since 1987 and worn out) 1.8 gasoline with auto trans (010 with TJ final drive 3.12:1) (wife's really old car from years ago). I also obtained a 1985 MF 1.6 TD engine with 5 speed manual. After reading this thread I decided to rebuild the 010 TJ and install it into the 1982 Rabbit coupled to the MF TD engine. I tore down the 010 and the 2nd gear band servo piston pushrod 'E' clip was broken. The seal was in several pieces but I will get the steels and frictions along with gaskets and seals.

I also have a 1980 Rabbit 1.6 gasoline with the autobox (Wife's REALLY REALLY old car from WAY back and melted engine thanks to my youngest brother) but the final drive ratio is 3.76:1. I'll get the selector lever and cables from the 1980 Rabbit and the rest of the parts from the other cars.

I have 10 acres and as you can guess I normally don't sell cars, I just park them when they get worn or damaged beyond being cost effective.

I just want a snappy shift with out worn clutches. Can the accumulator piston be left in place with a solid rod or spring eliminated?????

bob gauff
decatur,TX

[CoolAirVw]

I have a question about the accumulator piston spring and threaded block plug. It disables the pressure port for readings but can't the spring have a solid rod installed in the center to prevent the piston from moving or can the spring be eliminated and just let the plastic piston sit on the valve body so there is no movement?? (no accumulator) Or a solid rod altogether??

All those options do the same thing. The reason plugging is better is because it eliminates the possibility of the sealing rings on the accumulator leaking. Also it eliminates the possibility of the plastic piston cracking. But for me I think I would prefer having the pressure tap working.

We used to take out the spring on some 350's. We also blocked the accumulator on some 700's.

[Rabbit6]

Hi
My very first attempt at main accumulator modding was to put a piece of pipe inside the accumulator spring. In that case, it reduced accumulator piston travel by 75%. It worked well, but got sloppy after a while. I disassembled it later to find that the pipe had been deformed and mushroomed at both ends from the hydraulic pressure. I did not bother to look for a different material, I just tried the plug method mentioned and it worked.
The next problem is that the 2nd gear does not release fast enough. I am working on that problem now.

[motorcarman]

I am considering putting the plug in place with a VERY small hole drilled through it to limit flow but still keep the pressure readable. It would take a long time for the pressure to stabilize but I think I could read it if I needed to.

I put a Transgo 400 1,2 in a THM400 and they gave options for shift tuning by drilling certain holes of different diameters.
I think that I could get a snappy shift with a tiny hole. (yes/no???)
any thoughts???

bob gauff

[Rabbit6]

That's in interesting idea. After thinking about it for a bit, I believe it might not be wise. Leaving the accumulator intact, and restricting it's supply orifice would allow it to continue operating for an extended period after the shift has been achieved. So hydraulic power that should be in use to apply full force against the clutches is being wasted on SLOWLY driving the accumulator down for a period of time after the shift occurs. Yes, the shift is likely faster, but the clutch clamping force is diminished after the shift until the accumulator fills. Make sense?
still working on these issues!

[motorcarman]

Yes it makes sense but I am hoping that the pump makes pressure faster than the accumulator fills and the the end is reached when the gear is still engaged. The diesel MF engine is not high HP (68) so it would take an extended full throttle for each gear and rapid pressure/shift/pressure would not be likely.

I'll try it and if it fails I can always cut another plug or braze the plug hole and redrill a smaller one. I don't know if I will try a HEX plug or a threaded stud with a slot cut. I have a drill set with #61 to #80 from the carb jet drilling days but that is SMALL and a pin vise is needed to keep the bit from breaking.

It's good to have 5 or 6 cars to drive when you experiment with one or another.

bob gauff

[volksbunny]

my 92 cabby, when gas is applied (it feels like i'am riding the clutch like a manual) but only from a stop or crawl. fluid level is fine. typically when cold, any ideas what it may be?

also Iam running an Autotech 270 cam with a 010, and no stalling, or severe dip in rpm.

[bevboyy]

It's slipping.

[edwin.dario]

Hi all,

I posted a question regarding my issues below in the Cabby forum but due to the nature of my issue, it might be better to post it here for the benefit of anyone who encounters the same issues.

Approx. 2 months ago I replaced my automatic transmission's filter and gasket. I poured a little less than 3 litres of Dexron II oil after the change.

Almost immediately thereafter (once the car had sat for a couple of days), I had a massive leak from the bottom of the dipstick / filler neck. I therefore removed the filler neck and replaced the small round gasket before re-installing and seating the filler neck.

I am still experiencing leakage from the same area, but only when the car sits after a couple of days.

Anybody have a clue as to why this is happening?

I'm going to drop the pan again, replace the filler neck gasket and change the oil.... anybody have any recommendations for oil?

Also, can I re-use the same rubber gasket or should I wait the 2-weeks it'll take me if I order a new one?

Thanks all.

[CoolAirVw]

Here's why it happens after sitting a few days. The torque converter is full of fluid. Most of that fluid "sits" high. Higher than the fluid level of the trans. Over time that fluid "drains back" into the pan. Making the fluid level overfull.

The new O-ring on the fill tube should have fixed it but its possible you cut the new O-ring or maybe the fill tube has some damage.

Excessive drainback could be an indication of wear in the trans.

[B4S]

Found a link to a ton of VAG self-study manuals, and there is an 010 one...although it's all in german. It's sorta helpful because it shows there are TWO ports feeding fluid to the accumulator, not just one. Pages 46-47 are of particular fun, it shows exactly what is receiving/sending fluid pressure with the stick in 'D' . The accumulator is only half-deleted, according to those pages. That's the closest thing to fluid diagrams I have been able to find .

http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_8.PDF

There are a LOT more self-study guides there, but all the early stuff is in german.

[B4S]

Just in case anyone is still paying attention...the shift gates of a B&M Unimatic shifter mate up perfectly with the 010. Whipped up a ghetto jig and gave it a test...worked perfectly .

[LA7VJetta]

Just in case anyone is still paying attention...the shift gates of a B&M Unimatic shifter mate up perfectly with the 010. Whipped up a ghetto jig and gave it a test...worked perfectly .

is that a ratcheting shifter?

[B4S]

No, but if the basic, run-of-the mill shifter works...then the ratcheting ones will too .