Username or Email Address
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up

    VWVortex


    Page 5 of 33 FirstFirst 12345678915 ... LastLast
    Results 101 to 125 of 818

    Thread: The 010 Lost Knowledge Thread

    1. Member CoolAirVw's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 8th, 2007
      Location
      Kansas City Missouri
      Posts
      3,969
      Vehicles
      85 Jetta TD sold 2001 Jetta Tdi, 2000 Jetta Tdi
      09-10-2010 05:22 PM #101
      Here's why it happens after sitting a few days. The torque converter is full of fluid. Most of that fluid "sits" high. Higher than the fluid level of the trans. Over time that fluid "drains back" into the pan. Making the fluid level overfull.

      The new O-ring on the fill tube should have fixed it but its possible you cut the new O-ring or maybe the fill tube has some damage.

      Excessive drainback could be an indication of wear in the trans.
      Auto trans fluid change or flush will not make a trans fail. Stop spreading the wives tale/urban myth.
      ASE Master Certified Technician with L1 Advanced Diagnostic Rating Recently passed ASE certification for Light Diesel repair.
      www.KansasCityTdi.com

    2. Member B4S's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 16th, 2003
      Location
      Marionville, Ontario, Canada
      Posts
      8,351
      Vehicles
      2002 Forester S, 1987 GTI 16v
      09-13-2010 01:14 PM #102
      Found a link to a ton of VAG self-study manuals, and there is an 010 one...although it's all in german. It's sorta helpful because it shows there are TWO ports feeding fluid to the accumulator, not just one. Pages 46-47 are of particular fun, it shows exactly what is receiving/sending fluid pressure with the stick in 'D' . The accumulator is only half-deleted, according to those pages. That's the closest thing to fluid diagrams I have been able to find .

      http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_8.PDF

      There are a LOT more self-study guides there, but all the early stuff is in german.
      1987 GTI 16v, no build thread.

    3. Member B4S's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 16th, 2003
      Location
      Marionville, Ontario, Canada
      Posts
      8,351
      Vehicles
      2002 Forester S, 1987 GTI 16v
      09-13-2010 07:23 PM #103
      Just in case anyone is still paying attention...the shift gates of a B&M Unimatic shifter mate up perfectly with the 010. Whipped up a ghetto jig and gave it a test...worked perfectly .
      1987 GTI 16v, no build thread.

    4. Member LA7VJetta's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jul 21st, 2009
      Posts
      12,224
      Vehicles
      1985 Mercedes 190D
      09-13-2010 07:25 PM #104
      Quote Originally Posted by B4S View Post
      Just in case anyone is still paying attention...the shift gates of a B&M Unimatic shifter mate up perfectly with the 010. Whipped up a ghetto jig and gave it a test...worked perfectly .

      is that a ratcheting shifter?

    5. Member B4S's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 16th, 2003
      Location
      Marionville, Ontario, Canada
      Posts
      8,351
      Vehicles
      2002 Forester S, 1987 GTI 16v
      09-13-2010 07:36 PM #105
      No, but if the basic, run-of-the mill shifter works...then the ratcheting ones will too .
      1987 GTI 16v, no build thread.

    6. Member LA7VJetta's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jul 21st, 2009
      Posts
      12,224
      Vehicles
      1985 Mercedes 190D
      09-13-2010 07:40 PM #106
      Quote Originally Posted by B4S View Post
      No, but if the basic, run-of-the mill shifter works...then the ratcheting ones will too .

      good, i like ratcheting shifters.

    7. Member B4S's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 16th, 2003
      Location
      Marionville, Ontario, Canada
      Posts
      8,351
      Vehicles
      2002 Forester S, 1987 GTI 16v
      09-14-2010 08:25 PM #107
      Well, it's finally time for me to suck it up and build an 010 for myself. I degreased and pressure-washed a TNA code box (Mk2) I got for free, and now I reek of chemical cleaner. I figure I'll try out the accumulator delete, add ports for a cooler, and try to get a few more clutches in those drums .

      I don't really need a crazy-tough box, seeing as how I'm running a dual-carbed 1.8 8v...but hey, might as well give it a shot .
      1987 GTI 16v, no build thread.

    8. Banned
      Join Date
      Mar 28th, 2010
      Location
      speeding-g60
      Posts
      1,421
      Vehicles
      E PLURIBUS UNUM
      09-15-2010 01:10 AM #108
      so i am now looking at this option

      and you know what i want to do..... so if you find any parts extra, LMK.


    9. Member B4S's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 16th, 2003
      Location
      Marionville, Ontario, Canada
      Posts
      8,351
      Vehicles
      2002 Forester S, 1987 GTI 16v
      09-15-2010 06:10 AM #109
      Will do. As I strip it down, I'll post photos. I'm going with mostly-stock internals, but I might order a few things from transaxleengineering.com and IPT.com. The Audi 5000 turbo boxes came with 5 clutches up front and 5 or 4 clutches in the rear, and those are heavy cars...so it should grab nicely with 5/5 in my Mk1 .

      Don't abandon your other project, since it's already built...but you'll see that the internals are awfully similar to what's in the 010 (more or less).
      1987 GTI 16v, no build thread.

    10. Member B4S's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 16th, 2003
      Location
      Marionville, Ontario, Canada
      Posts
      8,351
      Vehicles
      2002 Forester S, 1987 GTI 16v
      09-15-2010 09:41 AM #110
      Just got an email back from IPT.com, they can convert the VB to full-manual too. I'll possibly be shipping my VB off to them shortly, since the strip-down has started. Two options for manual valve bodies...this just keeps getting better .
      1987 GTI 16v, no build thread.

    11. Member LA7VJetta's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jul 21st, 2009
      Posts
      12,224
      Vehicles
      1985 Mercedes 190D
      09-15-2010 09:42 AM #111
      Quote Originally Posted by B4S View Post
      Just got an email back from IPT.com, they can convert the VB to full-manual too. I'll possibly be shipping my VB off to them shortly, since the strip-down has started. Two options for manual valve bodies...this just keeps getting better .

      how much is it through them? i was quoted like $400 from transaxle engineering

    12. Banned
      Join Date
      Mar 28th, 2010
      Location
      speeding-g60
      Posts
      1,421
      Vehicles
      E PLURIBUS UNUM
      09-15-2010 10:04 AM #112
      what about transbrake????

      and who builds the converters???

      i will be doing the extreme end of things, so i will do the WILD build

    13. Member B4S's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 16th, 2003
      Location
      Marionville, Ontario, Canada
      Posts
      8,351
      Vehicles
      2002 Forester S, 1987 GTI 16v
      09-15-2010 10:12 AM #113
      Quote Originally Posted by nickzom View Post
      how much is it through them? i was quoted like $400 from transaxle engineering
      Waiting for a response. Either way, I'm going full manual, no matter the cost. I love hard-shifting automatics.

      I haven't researched converters or anything like that, but I think IPT can do it too. Their full name is Import Performance Transmissions, and they have a LOT for the Mk3 and up auto boxes, so the old stuff should be cake (fingers crossed). Their DSM stuff is top notch, got a few friends running their shift kits into the 10s .
      1987 GTI 16v, no build thread.

    14. Member B4S's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 16th, 2003
      Location
      Marionville, Ontario, Canada
      Posts
      8,351
      Vehicles
      2002 Forester S, 1987 GTI 16v
      09-15-2010 10:17 AM #114
      Got the response already!
      It would be $475 and I have to ship them my VB. He says it's a three-day turnaround, which is pretty good IMO. I was quoted around $500 from transaxle engineering, no core required, so it seems the pricing is fair. I'll probably give IPT a try, he also said that at the power levels I'm going to be running (150whp or so, in the future), no other mods are needed to the box.

      I'm starting to get really stoked...
      1987 GTI 16v, no build thread.

    15. Banned
      Join Date
      Mar 28th, 2010
      Location
      speeding-g60
      Posts
      1,421
      Vehicles
      E PLURIBUS UNUM
      09-15-2010 10:24 AM #115
      cool. i have been on IPT mail list for about 3 yrs now

      talked alot with them about auto trans's.....

    16. Member LA7VJetta's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jul 21st, 2009
      Posts
      12,224
      Vehicles
      1985 Mercedes 190D
      09-15-2010 10:52 AM #116
      well, when my trans finally gives out, its getting a manual VB then.

    17. Banned
      Join Date
      Mar 28th, 2010
      Location
      speeding-g60
      Posts
      1,421
      Vehicles
      E PLURIBUS UNUM
      09-15-2010 11:19 AM #117
      and diff? spool? weld it up?

      what R&P ratio's are available?

      i found a motor/trans for $95 complete, semi local. dunno if i want to drive to get it.

    18. Member B4S's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 16th, 2003
      Location
      Marionville, Ontario, Canada
      Posts
      8,351
      Vehicles
      2002 Forester S, 1987 GTI 16v
      09-15-2010 11:25 AM #118
      Unfortunately, the only desireable R&P/final drive is from the 85-86 Golf/jetta boxes coded "TJ". It has a 3.12 final drive, which would push it into the 140+mph territory (on stock sized tires) at the end of the 1/4. The MkII boxes are all 3.41, and the Mk1 boxes are 3.76. Third gear is always 1.00. You'll really have to play with slick sizing to get the right gearing, because there isn't much choice available in regards to mix-n-match.

      Ah, something else: the stock flexplate is pretty beefy looking, with a thick reinforcement where the converter pads mount, but there are only three feet. It's probably a good idea to look into adding a fourth or fifth pad to the converter, and beefing up the center section. The turbo dodge guys tear the centers out fairly frequently.
      Last edited by B4S; 09-15-2010 at 11:28 AM.
      1987 GTI 16v, no build thread.

    19. Member LA7VJetta's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jul 21st, 2009
      Posts
      12,224
      Vehicles
      1985 Mercedes 190D
      09-15-2010 11:31 AM #119
      Quote Originally Posted by B4S View Post
      Unfortunately, the only desireable R&P/final drive is from the 85-86 Golf/jetta boxes coded "TJ". It has a 3.12 final drive, which would push it into the 140+mph territory (on stock sized tires) at the end of the 1/4. The MkII boxes are all 3.41, and the Mk1 boxes are 3.76. Third gear is always 1.00. You'll really have to play with slick sizing to get the right gearing, because there isn't much choice available in regards to mix-n-match.

      i happen to have a TJ box in mine

    20. Member B4S's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 16th, 2003
      Location
      Marionville, Ontario, Canada
      Posts
      8,351
      Vehicles
      2002 Forester S, 1987 GTI 16v
      09-15-2010 07:49 PM #120
      Started the build:

      -After a can of degreaser, and a pressure-washer rampage:


      -Pulled the diff cover off to drain the fluid and take a peek:


      -Ring gear seems to be BOLTED on...:


      -The diff cover (comes complete with mounts for Mk1 and Mk2 boxes):


      -Valve body/underbelly:



      I'm building up a TNA code box (Mk2), since I got it free. The ATF didn't smell burnt at all, both fluids came out clean and clear, and I found traces of anti-seize on the pan bolts. It has to have been serviced semi-regularly, so this is good . I'm going to have to strip down my Mk1 box for it's 90mm flanges, since this box comes with 100s...and I don't feel like buying new axles and grinding my early knuckles.
      1987 GTI 16v, no build thread.

    21. Member B4S's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 16th, 2003
      Location
      Marionville, Ontario, Canada
      Posts
      8,351
      Vehicles
      2002 Forester S, 1987 GTI 16v
      09-15-2010 09:58 PM #121
      Preliminary measurements (done on the drums from a Mk2 diesel auto that I disassembled a long time ago) show that it'll be simple to add more clutches to both drums. I'm confused by VWs clearances though, they seem VERY loose vs. the turbo dodge stuff I'm more familiar with. I know if the packs are too tight, then it could drag quite a bit in neutral...but tighter clutches means sharper shifts (sorta). I'm mixing and matching parts, so my measurements could be off a bit (using front clutches in rear drum, etc)...fingers crossed it goes better when I take my TNA apart.

      I've also thought about experimenting a bit with the 1-2 and 2-3 shift valves, shimming them slightly to make the shifts quicker...although that's purely guesswork.
      1987 GTI 16v, no build thread.

    22. Member B4S's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 16th, 2003
      Location
      Marionville, Ontario, Canada
      Posts
      8,351
      Vehicles
      2002 Forester S, 1987 GTI 16v
      09-16-2010 01:34 PM #122
      I've added some more technical documents/rebuild manuals to my webspace, here's the link:

      010 Documentation

      There is a file in there titled "A413 Tranny Performance Upgrades", and that is about the typical Turbo Dodge automatic. There are no reasons why we can't use the same mods they do, except for the fact that the 010 isn't as well plotted-out. It's a no-brainer to add clutches and steels, and the valve bodies do have mostly the same devices in them (as do most fluid-controlled autos). No reason their mods wouldn't work for us.
      1987 GTI 16v, no build thread.

    23. Member B4S's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 16th, 2003
      Location
      Marionville, Ontario, Canada
      Posts
      8,351
      Vehicles
      2002 Forester S, 1987 GTI 16v
      09-16-2010 10:52 PM #123
      Got the extra clutch installed in the forward drum, easy peasy. It would have been a lot more difficult if I didn't have any spare parts though, some hunting for the right thicknesses of shims/steels/etc would be necessary. I lucked out and managed to get everything within spec. I only did the forward drum, since the direct drum already had 4 clutches, and is only active during and after the 2-3 shift. I figured the forward drum could make due with another clutch, since it's always 'on'.

      ...and of course, after I get everything back together, making a huge mess of ATF on my garage floor...the turbine shaft won't seat properly . It's all got to come apart tomorrow so I can make sure nothing's binding/broken.

      Sigh.
      1987 GTI 16v, no build thread.

    24. Member B4S's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 16th, 2003
      Location
      Marionville, Ontario, Canada
      Posts
      8,351
      Vehicles
      2002 Forester S, 1987 GTI 16v
      09-17-2010 09:27 AM #124
      Went out to the garage before work (6:30am) and separated the case AGAIN. Turbine shaft is seated perfectly now .

      Now...valve body time.

      [edit] I snapped some pics of the disassembly, but was so frustrated last night I didn't upload them to the PC . I can put them up tonight, and take some pics of what I did to the forward drum to show how to do the 5 clutch mod.
      Last edited by B4S; 09-17-2010 at 09:31 AM.
      1987 GTI 16v, no build thread.

    25. Member B4S's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 16th, 2003
      Location
      Marionville, Ontario, Canada
      Posts
      8,351
      Vehicles
      2002 Forester S, 1987 GTI 16v
      09-17-2010 09:39 PM #125
      Forward drum, stock:


      Stock clutchpack:


      Modded clutchpack (important to retain proper clearances, measure twice):


      As you can see, it's cake. That thick pressure plate goes at the 'top' of the stack, under the circlip. You have to grind/machine off the excess in order to squeeze the extra clutch/steel in there...or you can trim a bit off the bottom plate as well as the top plate. I tore down a TD 010 last year and happened to have the spare parts lying around, and was lucky enough to be able to use the TD forward drum lower plate, which is a two piece vs. the TNA single. It's also a lot thinner . I was able to get away with using a regular steel plate for the pressure plate, which is a common mod for the dodge A413, so I figured I wouldn't have anything to worry about. Time will tell I guess .
      1987 GTI 16v, no build thread.

    Page 5 of 33 FirstFirst 12345678915 ... LastLast

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •