The 010 Lost Knowledge Thread

[newto20v]

yeah.... i am on turbododge also.... for when i was looking for info on the A404. and A413.

i spend a fair bit of time researching crap....

[B4S]

Hmm...probably ending up with a 76 Rocco that's been off the road for a loooooooooong time. Not sure what the owner is going to keep off of it, but it's a 16vT running SDS (although cannibalized over the years). I do have a second TNA code box looking for a home...

Anyone know of anything lighter than a stripped down 76 Rocco?

[LA7VJetta]

Hmm...probably ending up with a 76 Rocco that's been off the road for a loooooooooong time. Not sure what the owner is going to keep off of it, but it's a 16vT running SDS (although cannibalized over the years). I do have a second TNA code box looking for a home...

Anyone know of anything lighter than a stripped down 76 Rocco?

stripped down 76 Rabbit

[B4S]

Don't have one of those, lol. Mine's an 83 .

[LA7VJetta]

Don't have one of those, lol. Mine's an 83 .

might be close

[B4S]

In all seriousness though, if I strip any car, it will be the rocco. I love my Rabbit, and it's going to be with me for a long time. I know the rocco is the older car, and more 'classic', but it was built by the previous owner to be all-go, no show. It's painted semi-gloss black, and has a hard-as-nails look about it.

[LA7VJetta]

[B4S]

No turbine shaft for me...it's been a tumultuous (hey, I spelled it right first time! ) couple of days. End result = if I want to continue sleeping in the same bed as my wife (and living in the same house), the spending needs to stop. It's a no-go for me until spring I figure .

I tried my best, but she got the high ground on this one .

[anotherguy]

This thread is awesome, I can't tell you how much I appreciate the information that you have posted here.
I am building a subaru powered vw notchback bracket car, I blew the stock 003 trans up during testing and am in the process of figuring out how to run a reliable vanagon box. You have obviously cut my time on research by a huge amount. Heavily considering the shaft buy if it is compatible with the vanagon box.
I'll be following this and will attempt to contribute when I can.
Thanks again for the info.

-Tony

[B4S]

You're welcome! The aircooled crowd pioneered this years back, but the internet wasn't around then, so there isn't much information about it out there.

Keep us posted!

[Rabbit6]

300M INPUT SHAFT PRICING !!!!

Finally got pricing on the shafts.
5-6 units = 490 each
10-12 units =350 each.

Me: 2 high price, poss 3 low price
Jeff: 1 high price, poss 2 low price
Chad: 1 high price
vwtuner-nl: 1 high price
=======================
5 total


5-6 weeks delivery time.

anyone else?


They modify the shaft's design slightly. the two piston rings are kept as they're necessary for fluid circuit reasons. However, the cutter used to make their grooves imparts much-needed radii to prevent failure. They also eliminate a ring groove at the torque converter end that isn't necessary. Apparently this design has proven highly durable as tested by applying V8 power through them.

[B4S]

I've so got to find a way in to this buy .
How much time until you place the order? There's got to be a way .

[20bkombi]

Hi there every one, I've been following this post for a long time. I've used a vangon auto
in my wifes type 3 wagon which i put a 13b turbo rotary in(306rwhp 13psi). I've done all the mods to the car and auto and seems you followed naturally the same path as i with the tranny.
She hasn't broken a turbine shaft yet in the 1/8th (8.5 @91mph very slow 60ft 2.4 1800rpm stall) but now i've been able to mod the converter for about
3000 rpm with no trans brake and is probably the next thing to go.

The box is a 76 case and diff (3.09 c/w) now has 5 clutches in DR and FWD drums, audi v/b modifided, 4 gear planetry set, drilled out oil entrys in dr drum with less return springs, moded the 2nd band servo, from 47psi line presure up to 175psi,the list goes on and on.

I've opened the converter 6 times doing different mods, now it is time to go smaller in diameter.

I alsow would be in for a 300m shaft (suit vangon) if you are ordering soon.

This was with a stock box
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_rY5bN35rw

This is my street bus 6.89 @ 102.7mph 1/8th

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngrv_KEAbNA&NR=1

Keep the posts coming

[wantacad]

nice!

[Rabbit6]

Hi there every one,

This is my street bus 6.89 @ 102.7mph 1/8th

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngrv_KEAbNA&NR=1

Keep the posts coming

Whew! I really hadn't been aware up to this point that I was physically capable of jizzing 18 seperate times in one minute!! I need a cigarette!

Gawd Dayam!

The 300M group buy is for transverse engine front-drive transmissions. Transaxle engineering doesn't normally deal with front-drive, so we've had a custom order made for them. I'd be willing to bet that he has aircooled 300M shafts in stock. Maybe we could convince them to give you group buy pricing on one, even though it's not part of the group buy. I'll ask next time I call.

Still waiting on confirmations to place the order. Hoping to get to the 10+ mark!

[B4S]

Hi there every one, I've been following this post for a long time. I've used a vangon auto
in my wifes type 3 wagon which i put a 13b turbo rotary in(306rwhp 13psi). I've done all the mods to the car and auto and seems you followed naturally the same path as i with the tranny.
She hasn't broken a turbine shaft yet in the 1/8th (8.5 @91mph very slow 60ft 2.4 1800rpm stall) but now i've been able to mod the converter for about
3000 rpm with no trans brake and is probably the next thing to go.

The box is a 76 case and diff (3.09 c/w) now has 5 clutches in DR and FWD drums, audi v/b modifided, 4 gear planetry set, drilled out oil entrys in dr drum with less return springs, moded the 2nd band servo, from 47psi line presure up to 175psi,the list goes on and on.

HA! I knew that removing some of the springs in the sprung direct drum would work . Thanks for the info! Most of the Golf/Jetta boxes seem to have the single-spring design in the DD, but the diesel seems to have the multi-sprung versions.

Thanks a million for joining and posting! Any automatic info is good info! It's nice to know that there are more of us out there .

Nice vids!

[B4S]

I'm going to publicly post that I'm in for the group buy again. This way, if I back out, I'll have to face the public shame that goes along with it .

Chad +1

[John Milner]

Hi there every one, I've been following this post for a long time. I've used a vangon auto
in my wifes type 3 wagon which i put a 13b turbo rotary in(306rwhp 13psi). I've done all the mods to the car and auto and seems you followed naturally the same path as i with the tranny.
She hasn't broken a turbine shaft yet in the 1/8th (8.5 @91mph very slow 60ft 2.4 1800rpm stall) but now i've been able to mod the converter for about
3000 rpm with no trans brake and is probably the next thing to go.

The box is a 76 case and diff (3.09 c/w) now has 5 clutches in DR and FWD drums, audi v/b modifided, 4 gear planetry set, drilled out oil entrys in dr drum with less return springs, moded the 2nd band servo, from 47psi line presure up to 175psi,the list goes on and on.

I've opened the converter 6 times doing different mods, now it is time to go smaller in diameter.

I alsow would be in for a 300m shaft (suit vangon) if you are ordering soon.

This was with a stock box
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_rY5bN35rw

This is my street bus 6.89 @ 102.7mph 1/8th

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngrv_KEAbNA&NR=1

Keep the posts coming

Nice dude. Aussies are few & far between on here!!!

Especially ones that are VW people & have an interest in VW autos! Too many narrow minded people out here I've found! If auto's can work in every other car, why can't they work in a VW when modded correctly I say!

Alittle off topic, but are you planning on heading down the VW event at Portland on Feb?

If my K-Jet turbo'd mk1 is still running, I'll be heading down too!

[alexf4]

woa this thread is amazing. one of the most informative threads i have found here and im glad its still alive

I'm looking into a 1.8t swap into a MK1 cabriolet that has a 010 trans in it. I'm really not up to date on the auto trans terms but what all has to be done to have a rock solid 010 behind roughly 300hp max?

i check out transaxle engineering but i didn't see any 010 specific products so were are you guys getting this stuff?

oh and please explain to me what parts i need and what they do. i like to know how something works when i'm working on it. I know what a torque converter is and that this trans shifts via fluid buildup but other than that i know nothing.

thanks in advance,
alex

[A2TDI]

There should be a few videos on youtube of how a basic 3 spd auto works. You will probably spend a couple grand to rebuild and make the transmission strong. If your 1.8t is only going to be 300 hp the rest of its life you can stick in a 500 dollar full manual valve body and a 300 m turbine shaft along with a chromoly pump drive and you should be good to go assuming the transmission is in good shape. There is a group buy on the 300m turbine shaft that you will 100 percent need if your making that much power but act fast on the group buy. Your best bet is to call up transaxle engineering talk to jeff about what you have and he will have all the answers.. Good luck!

[alexf4]

count me in on the group buy if someone can for sure tell me what trans i have. its a 1991 VW MK1 cabriolet


im pretty sure that its the same as the mk1 golf

AFAIK the 010 is the only auto trans that was available then. also its the only 3 speed.

[B4S]

The reason you can't find any 010 info on TE's site is because it's hiding in plain sight . The tail section of their 3-speed auto sandrail box is an 010 transaxle portion. The difference is the bellhousing/final drive they use/make. You've got to call them if you want info, they're old school.

If you plan on 300hp, you will need the 300m turbine shaft, the manual VB, and the chromoly pump drive, like mentioned above. Your gearbox should be a TN or TNA code 010, so essentially the same as the MkII box. It'll have more clutches in it than the stock EQ Mk1 box, so shouldn't need much in the way of beefing up. A FULL rebuild will make life easier though, I put my VB in a stock box and only got one ride out of it. Blew a very important seal inside and had to take it apart to fix it.

Build it right, build it once .

Welcome aboard! For hydraulic 3-speed info, they're all similar in function. The dodge A413 and GM TH350/400 use the same principles, and are well documented. Take a peek at that stuff, and you'll be good to go.

[alexf4]

thanks for the info, its really appreciated!

is there a full rebuild kit available to replace the necessary parts. i don't have a huge problem with cash as long as its 500 here 500 there. not like 3 grand up front.


i found this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-TR...0#ht_500wt_956


seems uber cheap though.

[B4S]

I wouldn't touch that with a 10' pole. The seller has 94%, and a very low transaction count.

A proper refresh/rebuild kit is ~100, comes with all the clutches/steels and seals. The important stuff (IMO) isn't included though. When I build another box, the first thing I will replace is the piston/seal in the forward drum. That's what I blew a few pages back. 20 year old internals just can't handle the extra pressures from the manual VB.

[alexf4]

so something like this

http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/...-000071002.htm

plus that piston. is there anything else?

according to this diagram

http://www.automaticchoice.com/Catalogue/vw010.pdf

the piston would be the round object labeled 172 on the forward clutch diagram?

[Mr. Tickles]

Here are two resources I use for automatics (these point directly to 010 stuff).

https://www.wittrans.com/Parts-Finde...&SearchTerm=87

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/VW-010.html

Transaxle Engineering also sells kevlar bands as an upgrade, and Raybestos clutches.


For the group buy, I know DCor (Honey Bear Dave Corbitt) is interested in one or two, and if needed, I'll throw my money in for one to get us to the 10+ pricing.

so something like this

http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/...-000071002.htm

plus that piston. is there anything else?

according to this diagram

http://www.automaticchoice.com/Catalogue/vw010.pdf

the piston would be the round object labeled 172 on the forward clutch diagram?

There are 3 pistons, 170,171, 172 that you'll need. Each clutch pack has a piston (fluid pressure on the opposite side builds up and compresses the clutches engaging that drive).

Also, if you run a manual VB, you don't need the governor. But since it seals part of the transmission the best way to bypass it is to remove the drive gear (819 on the exploded view).

[B4S]

I'll be buying those other two pistons soon, in prep for the turbine shaft installation. If one gave way, I'm sure the other two are getting ready to go too.

I did the 'dummy' governor mod as well, so far no leaks.

[alexf4]

great, thanks a lot.

so a rebuild kit + 3 pistons and i am set.
reading back in this thread i saw info about blocking off the accumulator, does this manual valve body do that or is it not needed?

secondly why is the governor not needed? is it there to limit the car or to actually prevent the trans from exploding at high rpm's? That van a few pages back seemed to hit some high rpm's so maybe that answers my question.

secondly after these mods what happens to the drive gear on the shift lever? the manual VB i assume only lets the 1,2, and 3 selections work so if one were to put it in drive what would happen?

and would you suggest replacing the differential seals?

[B4S]

great, thanks a lot.

so a rebuild kit + 3 pistons and i am set.
reading back in this thread i saw info about blocking off the accumulator, does this manual valve body do that or is it not needed?

Manual VB deletes it's function. When the VB is installed, you can leave out the accumulator piston and spring.

secondly why is the governor not needed? is it there to limit the car or to actually prevent the trans from exploding at high rpm's? That van a few pages back seemed to hit some high rpm's so maybe that answers my question.

It controls when the shifts happen, so since the driver controls the shift when using the manual VB, there is again no need for it.

secondly after these mods what happens to the drive gear on the shift lever? the manual VB i assume only lets the 1,2, and 3 selections work so if one were to put it in drive what would happen?

The stock shifter console is labeled like this: PRND21. With the manual VB (since it is a reverse-pattern), PRN all work the same, but D becomes 1st gear, 2 stays 2nd gear, and 1 becomes 3rd gear. 'D' no longer functions as "Drive", the driver is responsible for shifting the gears all the time. It's like a 3-speed manual transmission, without a clutch.

and would you suggest replacing the differential seals?

If you've got the box apart, it couldn't hurt to do it too. I did it on mine, but I also swapped flanges.

[Rabbit6]

we've got our group buy. I'll be ordering very soon. Anyone else want on board, better act quick!

[B4S]

How many so far? 20? 30? Surely everyone wants in .

...oh wait...everyone thinks automatics suck....

[LA7VJetta]

How many so far? 20? 30? Surely everyone wants in .

...oh wait...everyone thinks automatics suck....

If I still had my MK2 I would probably get one. but I dont, so I wont.

[alexf4]

i have to withdrawal form the group buy. kids vandalized my hyundai last night and now i need a new window.

[wantacad]

i have to withdrawal form the group buy. kids vandalized my hyundai last night and now i need a new window.

Hyundai windows can be found anywhere at any time, specialized shafts for VW automatics don't.

Hell if I had an extra 400 bones to toss around i'd pick one up for shiz and giggles. 98% chance I'd never use it but I know I'd get my money back plus some if I let it go at a later date.

[B4S]

Ya, I'm going to sit on it until I snap the one in my current gearbox. Don't want to be left in the lurch when it finally goes .