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    Thread: The 010 Lost Knowledge Thread

    1. Member umeng2002's Avatar
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      10-13-2009 08:59 PM #26
      Sorry to jack this thread, but I figure any 010 info should go here.
      I had my 010 rebuilt about 20,000 miles ago. It really only needed a new diff, but they had the thing apart anyway.
      A few months ago it started to take about 10 seconds for the car to move forward when you put the selector in Drive, 1, or 2 position.
      Now it takes like 2 minutes.
      I've changed the fluid 4 times to get most of the old fluid out, but that didn't really work.
      It goes into Reverse as fast as it should.
      Any ideas?
      thanks.
      Oh and once it finally gets going, it totally fine. Once the tranny gets cold, it takes takes 2 minutes for drive to engage.

    2. Member CoolAirVw's Avatar
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      10-14-2009 08:26 AM #27
      Probably a pressure loss. Probably gonna need to be pulled out. Measure line pressure with a gauge.
      Auto trans fluid change or flush will not make a trans fail. Stop spreading the wives tale/urban myth.
      ASE Master Certified Technician with L1 Advanced Diagnostic Rating Recently passed ASE certification for Light Diesel repair.
      www.KansasCityTdi.com

    3. Member Rabbit6's Avatar
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      10-15-2009 01:38 PM #28
      Quote, originally posted by umeng2002 »
      A few months ago it started to take about 10 seconds for the car to move forward when you put the selector in Drive, 1, or 2 position.
      Now it takes like 2 minutes.
      I've changed the fluid 4 times to get most of the old fluid out, but that didn't really work.
      It goes into Reverse as fast as it should.
      Any ideas?
      thanks.
      Oh and once it finally gets going, it totally fine. Once the tranny gets cold, it takes takes 2 minutes for drive to engage.

      So it operates normally, once it's warmed up and achieves drive finally?
      Perhaps some crud was left inside the trans during overhaul that finally made it's way into the valve body. Then, while it's cold and tolerances are closer (steel valves in aluminum bores) a shift valve is getting stuck part way.
      If you're feeling advernturous, remove the valve body and disassemble it. Clean it and each individual piece with brake cleaner and lint-free rags. reassemble the way it came apart (verifying with bentley diagrams in case the overhauler buggered something up.)
      No special tools needed. a 13mm socket, a 10 mm socket a phillips #2 is it. A spotless, dust-free work area, of course, and about 2 cans of brake cleaner. Get a piece of styrofoam and draw the outline of the valve body on it, life sized. Take a bunch of toothpicks to make little corrals in each component position on the VB outline. As you disassemble, put each piece in the correct place and orientation. Once the VB is totally naked (watch out for the little valve balls) use an old toothbrush or industrial plastic bristle brush and brake cleaner to make both halves and the seperator plate look like new.
      Then clean each individual component lube with fresh ATF and install into the proper location. Reassemble the valve body halves, clean the filter screen and put it all back together using the bentley's torques.
      See what that does. If no difference, there's probably a damaged seal on the work piston somewhere. (which could affect pressure as mentioned above)
      This isn't a difficult job, but you must be extremely conscientious of PERFECT cleanliness and how everything came apart.


      Modified by Rabbit6 at 10:38 AM 2-14-2010
      3 speeds are better than no speeds. I LOVE 010 AUTO TRANSMISSIONS!!

      If you need ANYTHING from China, let me know. I'm not talking about door handles. I'm talking containers of anything made there. I can cut out all the middlemen.

    4. Member umeng2002's Avatar
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      10-15-2009 10:53 PM #29
      Quote, originally posted by Rabbit6 »
      So it operates normally, once it's warmed up and achieves drive finally?
      Perhaps some crud was left inside the trans during overhaul that finally made it's way into the valve body. Then, while it's cold and tolerances are closer (steel valves in aluminum bores) a shift valve is getting stuck part way.
      If you're feeling advernturous, remove the valve body and disassemble it. Clean it and each individual piece with brake cleaner and lint-free rags. reassemble the way it came apart (verifying with bentley diagrams in case the overhauler buggered something up.)
      No special tools needed. a 13mm socket, a 10 mm socket a phillips #2 is it. A spotless, dust-free work area, of course, and about 2 cans of brake cleaner. Get a piece of styrofoam and draw the outline of the valve body on it, life sized. Take a bunch of toothpicks to make little corrals in each component position on the VB outline. As you disassemble, put each piece in the correct place and orientation. Once the VB is totally naked (watch out for the little valve balls) use an old industrial plastic bristle toothbrush and brake cleaner to make both halves and the seperator plate look like new.
      Then clean each individual component lube with fresh ATF and install into the proper location. Reassemble the valve body halves, clean the filter screen and put it all back together using the bentley's torques.
      See what that does. If no difference, there's probably a damaged seal on the work piston somewhere. (which could affect pressure as mentioned above)
      This isn't a difficult job, but you must be extremely conscientious of PERFECT cleanliness and how everything came apart.

      thanks, I was thinking something along those lines. It does drive perfectly fine once warmed up. I just didn't know what was involved in removing the valve body.

    5. Member CoolAirVw's Avatar
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      10-21-2009 06:50 PM #30
      Trans brake and cryo'd input shaft anyone?
      Auto trans fluid change or flush will not make a trans fail. Stop spreading the wives tale/urban myth.
      ASE Master Certified Technician with L1 Advanced Diagnostic Rating Recently passed ASE certification for Light Diesel repair.
      www.KansasCityTdi.com

    6. 10-22-2009 10:30 AM #31
      high stall TQ, cryo'd input shaft, and trans brake? God, i miss my 16v.
      '11 Routan SE (black), '01 Jetta GLX VR6 5spd (silver)
      FE ///Motorsports VCDS Hex-Can, if you need help.

    7. Member DubbinChris's Avatar
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      10-25-2009 09:50 AM #32
      The idea of this thread is a great one. Hopefully everyone will chime in their info.
      I currenly have three Quantums with two of them having the 010 trans in them. One being a TD and having the version with the "E" mode.
      I'd love to see some info on the interchangability of various 010.
      For example I understand that often the final drive is really the only thing that make many of the transmissions different and the rest can be interchanged to fair degree.

    8. Member CajunSpike's Avatar
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      11-10-2009 02:05 PM #33
      I'm pretty decent mechanically, but have not touched a tranny other than to swap it out. I currently have a 92 with 3 speed auto. Sometimes, once the engine warms up, the tranny hesitates between the 2/3 shift. If its hesitating, you can take your foot off the gas and then it will shift. Cold its fine...but once its warmed up(and not always), this will happen.
      Whats the thing to do for this?

    9. Member umeng2002's Avatar
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      11-14-2009 01:18 AM #34
      What are the signs of a bad accumulator piston?

    10. Member sec914's Avatar
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      01-07-2010 12:55 AM #35
      just picked up a 86 cabriolet with a trans that is puking fluid out of the vent port. happened after the previous owner changed the fluid and cleaned the screen any ideas? original problem was leaking pan gasket.
      punctuation just isn't for me may be for you just not me

    11. 01-07-2010 08:21 AM #36
      too much fluid.
      '11 Routan SE (black), '01 Jetta GLX VR6 5spd (silver)
      FE ///Motorsports VCDS Hex-Can, if you need help.

    12. Member CoolAirVw's Avatar
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      01-07-2010 02:21 PM #37
      Quote, originally posted by sec914 »
      just picked up a 86 cabriolet with a trans that is puking fluid out of the vent port. happened after the previous owner changed the fluid and cleaned the screen any ideas? original problem was leaking pan gasket.

      WHen the seals between the torque converter section and the diff section fail it can send the converter charge oil into the diff overfilling it.
      Auto trans fluid change or flush will not make a trans fail. Stop spreading the wives tale/urban myth.
      ASE Master Certified Technician with L1 Advanced Diagnostic Rating Recently passed ASE certification for Light Diesel repair.
      www.KansasCityTdi.com

    13. Member 88vwFox's Avatar
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      02-12-2010 01:50 PM #38
      I have been looking for some time now trying to find out what aftermarket fluid to use in my 81 rabbit auto. I am sure it's a 010 3 speed but finding info on it is like pulling teeth. I think I remember seeing somewhere about using the same fluid for both the diff and the ATF. Something about having GL-4 and some other rating from red-line? I am looking for this info because I really don't mind the auto it makes me drive the car nice but I would like to do do a fluid/filter change to keep it in tip top shape.

      PS don't let this thread die, it is the ONLY one with any real 010 info. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Budget $2500. car -$1040 = $1460 to make it better.

    14. Member Rabbit6's Avatar
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      02-12-2010 06:30 PM #39
      I don't think there are any miracle fluids out there. A high quality synthetic is the way to go. If you're monkeying around with the valvebody etc, i'd suggest getting a 20L pail of regular fluid, and once you've satisified yourself with your changes, then upgrade to synthetic. I never re-use fluid dumped from a trans, even if it's only gone for one test drive. No matter how carefully you clean the transmission's innards, there always seems to be more debris suspended in the fluid.
      Remember, the torque converter holds quite a bit, so simply draining the pan and refilling can't be considered a complete oil change.
      Diff oil is seperate from trans fluid. Synthetic is good here, too. Just remember, fluid lifespan decreases exponentially with heat. If you're gonna run her hard, put a cooler in. Not too hard to do, see above.
      3 speeds are better than no speeds. I LOVE 010 AUTO TRANSMISSIONS!!

      If you need ANYTHING from China, let me know. I'm not talking about door handles. I'm talking containers of anything made there. I can cut out all the middlemen.

    15. Member 88vwFox's Avatar
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      02-12-2010 06:57 PM #40
      Ok so you say to use a high quality synthetic, is there a spec I should be looking for? Dex III/mercon, ATF+4? there are many different ATF's all with different specs. I would just like to know so it's post here and so I can make sure I get the right thing the first time.
      Budget $2500. car -$1040 = $1460 to make it better.

    16. Member B4S's Avatar
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      02-12-2010 07:50 PM #41
      The diff should get the usual VW gear oil (75w90, GL-4), and Dexron III ATF in the box itself. Redline makes an ATF with GL-4 gear oil properties, which eliminates the need for dual fluids in the box...thus eliminating the fluid-mixing-death these boxes usually end up with.
      I really want to monkey around with an 010 again, but I just don't have the time/energy to go so deep into a project right now .
      1987 GTI 16v, no build thread.

    17. Member 88vwFox's Avatar
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      02-12-2010 08:06 PM #42
      Quote, originally posted by B4S »
      The diff should get the usual VW gear oil (75w90, GL-4), and Dexron III ATF in the box itself. Redline makes an ATF with GL-4 gear oil properties, which eliminates the need for dual fluids in the box...thus eliminating the fluid-mixing-death these boxes usually end up with.
      I really want to monkey around with an 010 again, but I just don't have the time/energy to go so deep into a project right now .


      I believe this is the product you are talking about http://www.redlineoil.com/prod...cid=9 The only problem I see with this is that trying to keep the fluid levels at the recommended spec.
      Quick note, this is the first car I have EVER owned with an auto. I am one major noobi when it comes to auto trans.
      Budget $2500. car -$1040 = $1460 to make it better.

    18. Member B4S's Avatar
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      02-12-2010 08:31 PM #43
      Well, if the seal that separates the diff and gearbox is still intact, then all this fluid does is offer piece of mind. The seal should stay in place, and be replaced if it's dead...but that fluid offers a bit of extra insurance IMO .
      1987 GTI 16v, no build thread.

    19. Member jfg69's Avatar
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      02-13-2010 11:45 PM #44
      Just out of curiosity, while I go off and attempt a search on more info.. can I swap one of these into my 1990 16V Passat Wagon? IMy current auto has the dreaded 2-3 gear slip, but seems to be fine after its fully warmed up. Apparently been that way for some time according to the PO.
      The thought of actually having a manual VB in a VW intrigues me, having had some hot automatics when I was building Chevy's and Olds's.. not that I expect to be chirping gears on the upshift in my 16V Passat..
      WTB: B5 fogs; clean rear bumper skin; votex lip; Neuspeed or H&R springs; 1.8T flex pipe

    20. Member B4S's Avatar
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      02-14-2010 08:46 AM #45
      Sure, you might have to rig up a shifter (not sure if the gates are the same), and you'll only have three speeds vs. four (might be revvy on the highway)...but you can dump all the electronic stuff .
      it's a bolt-in deal, if you've got all the stuff (flexplate, TC, etc), and 100mm axle flanges on the box. Some of the early ones had 90mm flanges.
      1987 GTI 16v, no build thread.

    21. Member Rabbit6's Avatar
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      02-14-2010 10:46 AM #46
      try an oil and filter change? helped on a 16v passat I was working on.
      A friend suggested that while the pan was off, start the engine, and shift through each gear (up on stands, foot brake holding wheels still) and back into park. I did, and the trans vomited out old fluid through all the different shift valves. This is fluid that would have remained in the trans and contaminated the new stuff. More than likely, the pump emptied out some from the torque converter. The whole process took less than 30 seconds, and with no real drive load, I don't think any damage could occur. I haven't tried this on a 3 speed, but I don't think I'll hesitate to, next time.
      My wabbit lays a good patch into 2nd, and chirps 3rd. Don't see why a 16v couldn't!
      It's a wicked feeling.


      Modified by Rabbit6 at 6:36 AM 4-19-2010
      3 speeds are better than no speeds. I LOVE 010 AUTO TRANSMISSIONS!!

      If you need ANYTHING from China, let me know. I'm not talking about door handles. I'm talking containers of anything made there. I can cut out all the middlemen.

    22. Member jfg69's Avatar
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      02-14-2010 01:00 PM #47
      Quote, originally posted by B4S »
      Sure, you might have to rig up a shifter (not sure if the gates are the same), and you'll only have three speeds vs. four (might be revvy on the highway)...but you can dump all the electronic stuff .
      it's a bolt-in deal, if you've got all the stuff (flexplate, TC, etc), and 100mm axle flanges on the box. Some of the early ones had 90mm flanges.

      Could always swap out the final drive for the highway I would think.. anything available in the aftermarket for a shifter? I like this idea.. electronics and VW automatics should not be mentioned in the same sentence.. lol
      WTB: B5 fogs; clean rear bumper skin; votex lip; Neuspeed or H&R springs; 1.8T flex pipe

    23. 02-14-2010 01:25 PM #48
      i had my 3speed mated to a 16v in my mk2 jetta. it does wonders to a sad face do it!
      '11 Routan SE (black), '01 Jetta GLX VR6 5spd (silver)
      FE ///Motorsports VCDS Hex-Can, if you need help.

    24. Member B4S's Avatar
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      02-14-2010 03:38 PM #49
      Quote, originally posted by jfg69 »
      Could always swap out the final drive for the highway I would think.. anything available in the aftermarket for a shifter? I like this idea.. electronics and VW automatics should not be mentioned in the same sentence.. lol

      Unfortunately there are no aftermarket options for final drives . The 1985-1986 (yep, one year only) 'TJ' box has the longest ratios...but it's really hard to find.
      1987 GTI 16v, no build thread.

    25. Member Daskoupe's Avatar
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      03-01-2010 08:53 PM #50
      just saw this thread.My dad and me have a very built 8v drag rabbit wish this trans in it.
      We have modified the trans(the valve body and governor mainly).IT has held up to 100+ 7000rpm launches.This a great trans has no problem shifting at 7800.
      12.2@116mph-293whp305wtq 22psi stock aba-AC-DD My Jetta
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