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    Thread: NEED YOUR HELP !!! (trailer control module installation)

    1. Member Dietmar's Avatar
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      09-02-2009 11:33 PM #1
      Hi community,

      need your help to figure out if I found the right connectors to install the trailer control module.

      Spend the better part of the evening ripping out panels from the trunk as I'd like to install the OEM trailer hitch.

      I figured it's the hardest part to get the trailer control module running and would like to know from the ppl who already did this DIY-installation if I'm on the right path.

      See pics below.

      Are the connection to the control module the red and yellow one you see in the pictures or do I have to dig somewhere else to find the right connections ???

      Anyone who installes the trailer conrole module please help

      THANKS !!!


    2. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      09-02-2009 11:58 PM #2
      I did it myself and it is there, if I don't remember wrong, you need to peel little bit off the sound insulator and follow the red wiring and other one is hidden there.

      Also after installation you need to vag-com it to activate the hitch or take it to dealer.

      I tried activation with my vag-com and found few locations to activate but missed few others, everything else worked but no brake lights.

      Took it to dealer and they plugged in and completed activation.




      Modified by kleinbus at 8:01 PM 9-2-2009


    3. Member Dietmar's Avatar
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      09-03-2009 12:05 AM #3
      so there's two of the red connectors ? I found the first one behind the sound insulation ? both sre behind the same sound insulation ???

    4. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      09-03-2009 12:10 AM #4
      I don't remember is it red but connectors are different size so you can't plug it to wrong port.

      Yep is should be under there as I had a hard time to get enough cables out to be able to mount box to holes where it belongs.


      Modified by kleinbus at 8:20 PM 9-2-2009


    5. 09-03-2009 10:43 AM #5
      Hello,
      Below is a picture of the two connectors you need. Like kleinbus said you can't mix them up. You may need to take out the jack well too, I did when I installed mine and it was only another minute or two. There is another connector that goes in the driver side foot well, I missed this my first go around and it caused some noodle scratching.



    6. 09-05-2009 07:19 AM #6
      I also removed the plastic "box" portion that holds the jack. Both plugs are right there with it removed. There are also some very handy places to mount it behind this "box". I always regret not taking pics after these types of jobs.

      As mentioned above you will need it flashed by the dealer before it works right.


    7. Member NZTIGUAN's Avatar
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      09-06-2009 06:18 PM #7
      Man am I SO HAPPY I got this all done by the dealer. Might have cost a bit but I still have some hair left and I don't think I would trying to do it myself !!

      Cheers

      Derek
      Alexandra New Zealand
      Second Tig, 2013, TDi, Auto, night blue, park assist 2, auto lights and wipers, RCD510, fogs, tow pack
      http://www.alexandra.co.nz/

    8. 09-09-2009 08:23 AM #8
      I got all the parts from the dealership 1/2 price as part of the price negotiation of the car with the understanding that I would install it all myself. Not too much problem except coding the module that they gave me to plug into the existing wiring harness. Used my Vag-Com and every thing works as is should. See

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4484276

      There is also a check box in the 'engine' module that you should check to tell it you have installed a trailer as well. Might also want to look at

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4005593

      I can help further if you need it. Let us know how it turns out.


    9. 09-09-2009 09:59 PM #9
      too add to my comments about the installation, don't forget the jumper below the steering column, this comes with the module and is important.

      After installation make sure you vag-com it before hooking it up to a trailer.

      Also as a note, the owners manual does not show the fuses that are used by the trailer module to make it all work. These should be in your prewired car but if you blow one it is difficult to track down (I somehow did this and it wasn't pleasant to find it). There are three, they are located in position 39, 40 and 41 in the panel behind the cubby to the left of the steering column and are 15A, 15A and 20A respectively. These are the upper right three fuses.


    10. Member Dietmar's Avatar
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      09-09-2009 11:51 PM #10
      What connectors under the steering wheel column? Does anybody have pictures? I'm confused... I just knew about the connectors in the back... WHICH I JUST FOUND AND I THE DEAL WAS SEALED !!! CRAP !!!... ufhhh... that was not described in the "ikea like furniture set-up guide" I found in the www for the controle module installation... things like that get my pulse up too high... I hate taking the car in to the dealer...

    11. Member Dietmar's Avatar
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      09-09-2009 11:53 PM #11
      thanks a bunch for this... my trailer hitch comes tomorrow and I will be glad to take a look at these posts...

    12. 09-10-2009 01:12 AM #12
      Im curious about the jumper as well. I bought a used hitch, module and mounting hardware from a fellow Tex'r and there was no mention of a jumper wire? Pics would be very helpful and if possible a part # too?

    13. 09-10-2009 09:04 AM #13
      I may not be able to get pics until the weekend. The jumper came in the kit I bought with the module which included the module, the jumper, mounting hardware and the 7 pin plug (which connects to the vehicles 7 pin plug under the bumper). The instuctions with the kit detailed installing the jumper which looks to split one connection and connect it to a plug that is not used.

      These plugs are under the steering column hidden in a white foam wrapping. If you are curious (and I am recalling correctly) before I get the pics up you can look under the dash behind the column and fuse box and find the foam wrapper, carefully remove it and you should see an unused plug and a plug connection. The jumper splits the plug connection and allows the unused plug to be connected.

      I'll get pics as soon as I can.


    14. 09-10-2009 09:21 AM #14
      The link is is a pic I found on the web that shows the kit, 5N0055204N is the part number. The wire with the two black plugs and one blue plug is the jumper that I was describing. This is the part that goes under the steering column. The kit includes instructions on this.


      http://www.neitral.ru/products...N.jpg


    15. 09-10-2009 03:44 PM #15
      Awesome, thanks for the part number and pic for reference. You wouldnt by chance have the instructions that came with the kit that you could scan and post up? Bought mine used so I didn't get any additional material other than the adaptor plug, module, reciever and the hitch w/ bolts.

    16. 09-10-2009 03:51 PM #16
      The part number is for the whole kit. I do not think I have the instructions but I will look. The install is just as described above although, as I mentioned above, I also removed the plastic jack pocket. There are some nice keyhole slots just above the connectors behind this pocket that appear to be made for mounting it. It worked for me anyway.

      If you look under the column as described you should see the little foam wrapper I described above, that jumper install is the easiest part of all.


    17. 09-10-2009 05:26 PM #17
      The issue Im having is that the jumper didnt come with the module and plugs that I bought used. I understand that the part number you posted above is for the whole kit which contains the mudule, plug adaptor and the jumper. The dealer has informed me that the parts aren't avaliable individually so I'm just wondering and more over hoping if I can get the part number of the jumper itself I might be able to source a used jumper rather than having to buy the whole kit to the tune of $400+ and ending up with sn extra 3/4 of it that I dont need to use....

    18. 09-10-2009 08:32 PM #18

      the only number I can find on the plug is 1.10 973 119
      the number visible in the pic is a number from the cars harness
      the pics show the location under the column where the jumper goes


    19. Member Dietmar's Avatar
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      09-10-2009 10:03 PM #19
      thank you VERY much..

      that was the missing link...

      installed the control module today though was not able to fit where is should be but velcroed to the foamy stuff... that should be alright... happy that I managed without a manual of how to remove panels...

      Plus the installation manual for the control module is the biggest joke I've ever seen... it's just one picture and desribes NOTHING !!!

      Anyway... that thing is in...

      ...now tomorrow I might want to try coding that sucker...


    20. Member Dietmar's Avatar
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      09-11-2009 12:43 AM #20
      If VW does not sell you this part go to an Audi dealership. I typically order my prts there and if they do not have this in stock they seem to be ten times faster than VW snailmail... ordered once a part for the radio connectors which only was three $3. After one week VW still did not get this delivered so I went to Audi accross the street and they got my this part within a day !!! VW called then one week later that I could come now and pick-it up

    21. 09-11-2009 01:00 AM #21
      Looks like I'm a bit screwed. The jumper isn't avaliable as a seperate part from the kit so Im either going to have to buy the complete kit and end up with extra (read expensive) parts I don't need to use or try and source the jumper from a wreckers which I think is going to be a challenge, at least here in NA as I don't suspect there are many just sitting around in the junk yards just yet and who knows how many few and far between were bought with the trailer pkg installed...

      Anyone have contacts in Europe or Australasia that might be able to source used parts???

      Lesson learned make sure when buying used parts that you do your research and ensure you're getting ALL the parts needed.


    22. 09-13-2009 12:54 PM #22
      We need to get you the pinout because this would be a very simple thing to fabricate.

    23. 09-14-2009 04:32 PM #23
      Quote, originally posted by Junkyolebluecar »
      We need to get you the pinout because this would be a very simple thing to fabricate.

      It would be simple to fab if I could get my hands on one to duplicate but the Tiguans aren't very popular here yet and I'm thinking a stranger isn't going to let me borrow the jumper harness from thier hitch equipped Tig. Regardless it looks like its a two wire plug that splits into 4 wires that in turn go to two more plugs so I'd need to know where each splits to I.E. ground to ground etc. My local dealership gave me a stunned look and basically suggested I would have to buy the complete kit when I brought up the idea of them making the jumper for me so I spoke with another dealership near by (2hr drive away :bangshead and they went as far as to have a tech speak with me and he said he could probably make one for me given they have a kit in stock to refer to and the plugs are readily available. Amazing difference in service and help you get from dealerships to say the least.


    24. Member Dietmar's Avatar
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      09-26-2009 03:06 AM #24
      Hi...

      just came back this afternoon on LH436 from DUS to ORD...

      Was at my favorite AUDI/VW dealership in Germany to get myself some parts and also asked for the little wire as I thought that I could have picked this up for you for small EURO-change...

      As you can pretty much get every single parts by itself over there the service desks persons answer was quite surprising for me. Also over in Germany you can ONLY get the whole electrical kit together and not just single pieces by itself...

      When I asked them what they typically do when a part like this breaks they said that their electricians built a replica in minutes... you just need the correct housings which should be easy to get through VW dealers...




      Modified by Dietmar at 1:09 AM 9-26-2009


    25. 09-26-2009 02:01 PM #25
      Thanks for checking it out for me, much appreciated. I did a bit of research and all of the plugs are readily avaliable so I just need to get my hands on a jumper to compare it to and I'll build one myself.

    26. 10-15-2009 01:59 PM #26
      Dietmar, Congrats on the new trailer! Just purchased an R/T in August but pulling it with a 07 Rabbit, I'm sure the Tiguan does a nicer job of towing.

    27. Member Dietmar's Avatar
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      10-15-2009 10:09 PM #27
      Hi there...

      you know what... I HATE IT... The Little Guy R/T is brilliant BUT I HATE TOWING IT....

      This is the first thing I tow but when driving down certain roads and the R/T begins to jump up and down and does not want to stop bouncing up and down for about 1 mile I feel the trailer is kicking my ass.

      I do not know if this is normal though while towing. Maybe one just have to live with it... but REALLY... I tought the 8-hundred some punds of the R/T you would not even feel but when the trailer kicks and the metalling *plong* *plong* noise comes from the back you feel like... Uhhh something is wrong....

      Well, I got the R/T from North Canton/OH (Little Guy HQ) back home safe to Chicago... BUT... Did I like towing it ?..... NO !!!


    28. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      10-16-2009 04:41 PM #28
      I haven't check what the trailer looks like but such bouncing indicates it is single axle trailer.

      Lower your trailer tire pressure as right now the bounching is caused by your trailer tire side wall flex and not by the trailer suspension travel.

      I have to lower my single axle trailer tire pressure every time when it is haldway loaded or empty or it will be bounching around the lane...

      Right now during the move I'm in neck deep, trailer haves just 15psi and runs pretty smooth. Sure when I throw 600lbs atv on it I have to jack up the pressure or trailer will be running on rims but what we can do with these single axle thingies

      ...go and buy tandem trailer, those does not jump around as bad as single axle




      Modified by kleinbus at 12:45 PM 10-16-2009


    29. Member Dietmar's Avatar
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      10-16-2009 05:17 PM #29
      Actually the R/T is approx. 900lbs heavy teardrop trailer; well... pretty much just a 900lbs heavy bed on wheels.

      But 900 lbs shoudl be heavy enough not to violently jump up and down so much... though next time I pull it I will try to lower the tire pressure to about 80-90% of the recommended value (probably first to 90% and see what it does...)


    30. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      10-17-2009 10:20 PM #30
      Yep, I had to go and buy one of those tiny tire pressure gauges and pulled over about 6 times and each time dropped 5psi. Finally found a spot where it is not jumpingaround nor looks too flat.

    31. 10-19-2009 01:41 PM #31
      I have to say I'm only slightly surprised at hearing how much your trailer is bouncing. Would suggest checking tongue weight with a bathroom scale, we discovered the tongue weight to be much higher than advertised but only figured this was a problem due to towing with the Rabbit. We have had to change the way we load the trailer to where we place all the weight above and behind the axle to lighten the tongue. Would be interested in seeing pictures of the trailer to see how the tongue is setup on your R/T. Ours had a diamondplate box, battery, and spare tire all mounted to the tongue. Needless to say the only item remaining is the battery and it has been relocated to the very back of the tongue. Lightening the tongue significantly reduced the bounce and if the load in the trailer shifts forward we know right away as the bounce returns.

    32. Member sixandeightstringer's Avatar
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      10-20-2009 01:49 PM #32
      YES - +1

      I have it outfitted but haven't towed with the Tig yet, but we went camping a lot growing up and I distinctly remember how my dad would lay out the packing arrangement in the trailer. Many people overlook the importance of load balancing.

      -- Mark
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      Previous car: 2001 Jetta Wolfsburg - w/REVO Tuning, AEM CAI, Audi TT DV

    33. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      10-20-2009 02:49 PM #33
      +3

      Yes pay attention to load balance.

      Some time ago I rented 2 atv's with trailer, shop placed those all the way to front of trailer and guy had weird look on his face when I fired them up and moved over the trailer axle.

      Sure 1000 lbs doesn't affect 3500 dualie but minivans and similar size would drag the hitch.


    34. Member Dietmar's Avatar
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      11-16-2009 11:58 PM #34
      I just checked the tongue weight last weekend... the little guy was advertised with 120 lbs and the actual tongue weight is 190 lbs !!!! The advertised max. is 220 lbs though but hey.... WHAT A DIFFERENCE !!!

      For some of you it might not seem a lot but think of it this way... You girlfriend weight 120 lbs and now she ways 190 lbs ?!? Now we all have to agree... That would NOT be acceptable...

      Did anyone of you try to install a weight distributing hitch or some kind of helping device to reduce trailer bounce ?


    35. Member kleinbus's Avatar
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      11-17-2009 08:37 AM #35
      Don't use any "weight distributing" system as it just adds more stress and torsional force to receiver structure itself. Tig receiver mounting interface is just small plate with 4 bolts, not like my ex 4x4 2500 Dodge Ram with Cummins where receiver 4" dia cross bar was bolted directly to frame rails.

      Like "force" said, check what ever you have mounted on front of trailer.

      Sadly it means some extra work, as you may have to move what ever you can, even spare tire mounting, also stuff from the storage on front of trailer axle to the storage located behind the trailer axle and once done, check the tongue load again.





      Modified by kleinbus at 4:44 AM 11-17-2009


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