What is the fault code# that is listed in front of the fault description? P000A I don't think is real.. This is the system that controls your valve timing.
#1
On my way home from PA got "check engine" light come on. Plugged it in to VAG and got this:Address 01: Engine Labels: 06F-907-115-AXX.lbl
Part No SW: 1K0 907 115 B HW: 1K0 907 115 B
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0040
Revision: --H14--- Serial number: VWZ7Z0F3339246
Coding: 0403010A1C070160
Shop #: WSC 09113 444 848082 Faults Found:
000010 - Camshaft Positioner (Bank 1 Intake): Slow Response
P000A - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 10101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 5
Mileage: 96527 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 19:38:44Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2801 /min
Load: 51.7 %
Speed: 113.0 km/h
Temperature: 84.0°C
Temperature: 25.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 980.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.351 VCan someone explain what is it and if I should tow my car to dealer or it is like loose conector/one time sort of thing?Thank you all.
#2
What is the fault code# that is listed in front of the fault description? P000A I don't think is real.. This is the system that controls your valve timing.
#3
I though P000A is the fault code number. 000010 maybe, that's all VAG gave me
#4
Maybe Your Oil is Dirty or Filter ?Did You have a Additive In It .
Thought I read somewhere Oil Pressure has something to do with Cams .
Most Likely Loose - Implausible Signal - Does Sound Like a Smart Computer.
![]()
Modified by EngTech1 at 6:33 PM 9-26-2009
I'll do My Best to Help You: ** Fall Sale is On ! ** -
http://photobucket.com/Storm_Rooms_S...view=slideshow
#5
No i didn't have any additives. But you were probably right about the dirty oil. Changed oil and filter today.Both were very dirty. And I only did about 10k on that oil and wasn't even driving it that hard.Changed spark plugs, just in case + they were due anyways. Cleared DTC codes. Drove to State College, PA and back, no faults have come up yet.
#6
I've got to Re Gap the Plugs , just to check them Over .Got Front Flaps to add yet also .
Glad You Could Fixed It.
![]()
I'll do My Best to Help You: ** Fall Sale is On ! ** -
http://photobucket.com/Storm_Rooms_S...view=slideshow
#7
I'd be surprised if that MIL doesn't come back on at some point. Did you ever have your engine bay cleaned or hit some large puddles?
#8
I did hit a large puddle we were coming back from Ocean City,MD and it started just pouring, and it was so bad like I wasnt driving but swimming everybody were going 5 mph not more coz you couldnt see anything and then I did dive into a nice deep puddle, but it was awhile ago. This code I got when we were driving down from PA and it was hot and humid outside so I was running my AC and averaged about 80mph.
#9
I would put a decent wager that the camshaft position sensor got hit with water and it soaked in over time and dried out. Now with the increased humidity and heat, it may have seeped back in and is causing a malfunction.
#10
Well I'd like to think to myself that it was ome of those mysteriois fault codes that happens only once and never comes back. Since i cleared it and ran output test and it did sound ok I will deal with it when and if it comes back on. I have more worrying issue with my engine misfiring in 3 and 4 at cold start and car is shaking and all until revs drop from 1048 to 800s. I replaced coils on both 3 and 4, changed all spark plugs, changed oil, still freakimg misfiring drives me crazy![]()
#11
Quote, originally posted by rulevoy » Well I'd like to think to myself that it was ome of those mysteriois fault codes that happens only once and never comes back. Since i cleared it and ran output test and it did sound ok I will deal with it when and if it comes back on. I have more worrying issue with my engine misfiring in 3 and 4 at cold start and car is shaking and all until revs drop from 1048 to 800s. I replaced coils on both 3 and 4, changed all spark plugs, changed oil, still freakimg misfiring drives me crazy ![]()
That's what the camshaft position sensor is used for. That position sensor tells the spark plugs when to fire for each cylinder by sensing where the cam is positioned in the cycle. You will get those misfiring problems when the sensor goes bad as it has no idea when it should send the spark signal or not since it is missing parts of the cam's cycle by malfunctioning. I'm sorry, but in almost full confidence you were chasing down the wrong path. Replace that cam sensor and I think all of your problems will be solved (can't say if other sensors didn't get wet and go bad as well, though). If not, you are at least going down the more correct path of diagnosis.
#12
Will order it tomorrow then.Thanks alot for advice.But why didnt it come up again on VAG if it is broken?And why it stops misfiring when revs drop to 800s?
#13
Quote, originally posted by rulevoy » Will order it tomorrow then.Thanks alot for advice.But why didnt it come up again on VAG if it is broken?And why it stops misfiring when revs drop to 800s? Why didn't it come up again? It probably hasn't become saturated enough with water again to warrant the light to come on again. However, if you go in with VAG-COM, it should still be there in freeze frame data, even though no CEL is on. If that error came up once and you've admittedly driven through large puddles and rain, I would most certainly replace it, particularly given your circumstances of misfiring. These engine error reporting systems aren't perfect. They only have a finite set of known errors and circumstances and provide a best guess via error code to the user to help figure it out. For this same reason, people misguidedly replace their MAF sensors all the time b/c that code gets thrown for any vacuum leaks as the system can't tell when there is a vacuum leak somewhere, it only knows that the air passing the MAF is not matching up with what's going in the cylinder. So, according to its logic, the MAF sensor is bad (which isn't true, once you apply human logic and diagnosis).
#14
Do you think that only the sensor went bad or I need to change both Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) and Camshaft Adjustment Valve (N205)?
#16
Had the same error and the guy at the service followed the instructions provided by the VAS and got to the conclusion that the camshaft adjustement valve is faulty so I replaced it. Unfortunately, the car has the same sympthoms : bad idling. Especially when the engine is cold, the idle goes crazy sometimes and the car shakes but it pulls perfectly normal at WOT ! Any other ideas ?
#17
P000A/000010 - Camshaft A (Bank 1 Intake): Positioner Slow Response
Possible Causes
-Camshaft Adjustment Valve 1 (N205) faulty
-Wiring/Connectors from/to Camshaft Adjustment Valve 1 (N205) faulty
-Intake Camshaft Adjustment (Bank 1) faulty
Possible Solutions
-Check Camshaft Adjustment Valve 1 (N205)
--Perform Output Test
-Check Wiring/Connectors from/to Camshaft Adjustment Valve 1 (N205)
-Check Intake Camshaft Adjustment (Bank 1)
--Perform Basic Setting
--Check for Tightness of the Adjustment Mechanism
--Check Engine Oil Pressure
GoAPR.com | Facebook | YouTube | TwitterPhone: (800) 680-7921 Local Phone: +1 (334) 502-5181 Fax: +1 (334) 502-5180The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Address: APR LLC, 4800 US HWY 280 West, Opelika, AL 36801
#18
First off none of these reponders have any idea of what they are talking about. "Slow response" is the adjuster not actually moving to where the ECM has directed it to in the amount of time it is supposed to take it to move. A cam positioner is neither the ajustment valve or the positon sensor. Slow reponse could be caused by sludge built up by not changing your oil enough.(really only 10k) Note that 10k oil change intervals with synthetic oil is the MINIMUM required to maintain warranty. Coupled with the misfires (most likely caused by valve lash adjusters gummed up) i would suggest you have a sludge issue. Desludge and change your oil more often.
#20
P000A/000010 - Camshaft A (Bank 1 Intake): Positioner Slow Response
Possible Causes
-Camshaft Adjustment Valve 1 (N205) faulty
-Wiring/Connectors from/to Camshaft Adjustment Valve 1 (N205) faulty
-Intake Camshaft Adjustment (Bank 1) faulty
Possible Solutions
-Check Camshaft Adjustment Valve 1 (N205)
--Perform Output Test
-Check Wiring/Connectors from/to Camshaft Adjustment Valve 1 (N205)
-Check Intake Camshaft Adjustment (Bank 1)
--Perform Basic Setting
--Check for Tightness of the Adjustment Mechanism
--Check Engine Oil Pressure
Changed the N205 as I said and also checked the wiring (the mechanic measured some voltage/amperage values). Also checked the fuse. Performed the basic setting. What is "intake camshaft adjustement (bank 1) ? I will check the oil pressure and tighteness of the mechanism !
Valves were cleaned 10k kms ago when I installed calico bearings and IE rods. OIL used is 300V 5W30 and is being changed about each 5-7k kms !
Sorry but my english is not that good. Does "Sludge build up" mean carbon build up on the valves ?
Last edited by fuscobal; 09-05-2010 at 02:49 PM.
#21
Sludge in this case would refer to engine oil contamination by carbon and other combustion materials and the firming up of the oil. Intake camshaft Adjustment is the amount the ECM expects the camshaft timing in relation to the crankshaft to have changed when the ECM commands a change. Camshaft timing is used for things like inducing EGR like operation by causing valve timing overlap. This overlap causes some exhaust gas to stay in the combustion chamber performing the duty of an EGR system).
#22
Hi guys, sorry for bringing up n old post but I to am having this fault and idle problem. How do you use vagcom to carry out the basic settings on the cam adjuster ?
#23
Same problem here idles rough and rpm bounce when the vehicle is stopped gets worse or better for no apparent reason. Replaced a broken sensor and it made no difference
#24
it cost me 150 for the cam position sensor..fyi also thermostat cause it was sticking...well maybe I replaced the sensor and the thermostat same time because they're both impossibly hard to get to.
#25
Can anyone tell me the part number for a 2006 audi a3 2.0t for the n205 valve?