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    Thread: WTF is Camshaft Positioner (Bank 1 Intake)?

    1. Semi-n00b
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      09-12-2009 01:06 AM #1
      On my way home from PA got "check engine" light come on. Plugged it in to VAG and got this:

      Address 01: Engine Labels: 06F-907-115-AXX.lbl
      Part No SW: 1K0 907 115 B HW: 1K0 907 115 B
      Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0040
      Revision: --H14--- Serial number: VWZ7Z0F3339246
      Coding: 0403010A1C070160
      Shop #: WSC 09113 444 84808

      2 Faults Found:
      000010 - Camshaft Positioner (Bank 1 Intake): Slow Response
      P000A - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent - MIL ON
      Freeze Frame:
      Fault Status: 10101000
      Fault Priority: 0
      Fault Frequency: 5
      Mileage: 96527 km
      Time Indication: 0
      Date: 2000.00.00
      Time: 19:38:44

      Freeze Frame:
      RPM: 2801 /min
      Load: 51.7 %
      Speed: 113.0 km/h
      Temperature: 84.0°C
      Temperature: 25.0°C
      Absolute Pres.: 980.0 mbar
      Voltage: 14.351 V

      Can someone explain what is it and if I should tow my car to dealer or it is like loose conector/one time sort of thing?Thank you all.


    2. 09-12-2009 03:31 PM #2
      What is the fault code# that is listed in front of the fault description? P000A I don't think is real.. This is the system that controls your valve timing.

    3. Semi-n00b
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      09-13-2009 01:11 AM #3
      I though P000A is the fault code number. 000010 maybe, that's all VAG gave me

    4. Member EngTech1's Avatar
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      09-13-2009 05:35 PM #4
      Maybe Your Oil is Dirty or Filter ?

      Did You have a Additive In It .

      Thought I read somewhere Oil Pressure has something to do with Cams .

      Most Likely Loose - Implausible Signal - Does Sound Like a Smart Computer.





      Modified by EngTech1 at 6:33 PM 9-26-2009

      I'll do My Best to Help You: ** Fall Sale is On ! ** -


    5. Semi-n00b
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      09-13-2009 11:22 PM #5
      No i didn't have any additives. But you were probably right about the dirty oil. Changed oil and filter today.Both were very dirty. And I only did about 10k on that oil and wasn't even driving it that hard.

      Changed spark plugs, just in case + they were due anyways. Cleared DTC codes. Drove to State College, PA and back, no faults have come up yet.


    6. Member EngTech1's Avatar
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      09-26-2009 06:36 PM #6
      I've got to Re Gap the Plugs , just to check them Over .

      Got Front Flaps to add yet also .
      Glad You Could Fixed It.


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    7. 09-26-2009 07:26 PM #7
      I'd be surprised if that MIL doesn't come back on at some point. Did you ever have your engine bay cleaned or hit some large puddles?

    8. Semi-n00b
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      09-26-2009 11:08 PM #8
      I did hit a large puddle we were coming back from Ocean City,MD and it started just pouring, and it was so bad like I wasnt driving but swimming everybody were going 5 mph not more coz you couldnt see anything and then I did dive into a nice deep puddle, but it was awhile ago. This code I got when we were driving down from PA and it was hot and humid outside so I was running my AC and averaged about 80mph.

    9. 09-26-2009 11:39 PM #9
      I would put a decent wager that the camshaft position sensor got hit with water and it soaked in over time and dried out. Now with the increased humidity and heat, it may have seeped back in and is causing a malfunction.

    10. Semi-n00b
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      09-26-2009 11:56 PM #10
      Well I'd like to think to myself that it was ome of those mysteriois fault codes that happens only once and never comes back. Since i cleared it and ran output test and it did sound ok I will deal with it when and if it comes back on. I have more worrying issue with my engine misfiring in 3 and 4 at cold start and car is shaking and all until revs drop from 1048 to 800s. I replaced coils on both 3 and 4, changed all spark plugs, changed oil, still freakimg misfiring drives me crazy

    11. 09-27-2009 12:06 AM #11
      Quote, originally posted by rulevoy »
      Well I'd like to think to myself that it was ome of those mysteriois fault codes that happens only once and never comes back. Since i cleared it and ran output test and it did sound ok I will deal with it when and if it comes back on. I have more worrying issue with my engine misfiring in 3 and 4 at cold start and car is shaking and all until revs drop from 1048 to 800s. I replaced coils on both 3 and 4, changed all spark plugs, changed oil, still freakimg misfiring drives me crazy

      That's what the camshaft position sensor is used for. That position sensor tells the spark plugs when to fire for each cylinder by sensing where the cam is positioned in the cycle. You will get those misfiring problems when the sensor goes bad as it has no idea when it should send the spark signal or not since it is missing parts of the cam's cycle by malfunctioning. I'm sorry, but in almost full confidence you were chasing down the wrong path. Replace that cam sensor and I think all of your problems will be solved (can't say if other sensors didn't get wet and go bad as well, though). If not, you are at least going down the more correct path of diagnosis.


    12. Semi-n00b
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      09-27-2009 12:29 AM #12
      Will order it tomorrow then.Thanks alot for advice.But why didnt it come up again on VAG if it is broken?And why it stops misfiring when revs drop to 800s?

    13. 09-27-2009 12:41 AM #13
      Quote, originally posted by rulevoy »
      Will order it tomorrow then.Thanks alot for advice.But why didnt it come up again on VAG if it is broken?And why it stops misfiring when revs drop to 800s?

      Why didn't it come up again? It probably hasn't become saturated enough with water again to warrant the light to come on again. However, if you go in with VAG-COM, it should still be there in freeze frame data, even though no CEL is on. If that error came up once and you've admittedly driven through large puddles and rain, I would most certainly replace it, particularly given your circumstances of misfiring. These engine error reporting systems aren't perfect. They only have a finite set of known errors and circumstances and provide a best guess via error code to the user to help figure it out. For this same reason, people misguidedly replace their MAF sensors all the time b/c that code gets thrown for any vacuum leaks as the system can't tell when there is a vacuum leak somewhere, it only knows that the air passing the MAF is not matching up with what's going in the cylinder. So, according to its logic, the MAF sensor is bad (which isn't true, once you apply human logic and diagnosis).


    14. Semi-n00b
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      09-27-2009 10:54 PM #14
      Do you think that only the sensor went bad or I need to change both Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) and Camshaft Adjustment Valve (N205)?

    15. 09-27-2009 11:20 PM #15
      I would start with the one denoted in the error.

    16. 08-30-2010 04:51 PM #16
      Had the same error and the guy at the service followed the instructions provided by the VAS and got to the conclusion that the camshaft adjustement valve is faulty so I replaced it. Unfortunately, the car has the same sympthoms : bad idling. Especially when the engine is cold, the idle goes crazy sometimes and the car shakes but it pulls perfectly normal at WOT ! Any other ideas ?

    17. Forum Sponsor Arin@APR's Avatar
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      08-30-2010 06:56 PM #17
      Quote Originally Posted by fuscobal View Post
      Had the same error and the guy at the service followed the instructions provided by the VAS and got to the conclusion that the camshaft adjustement valve is faulty so I replaced it. Unfortunately, the car has the same sympthoms : bad idling. Especially when the engine is cold, the idle goes crazy sometimes and the car shakes but it pulls perfectly normal at WOT ! Any other ideas ?
      P000A/000010 - Camshaft A (Bank 1 Intake): Positioner Slow Response

      Possible Causes

      -Camshaft Adjustment Valve 1 (N205) faulty
      -Wiring/Connectors from/to Camshaft Adjustment Valve 1 (N205) faulty
      -Intake Camshaft Adjustment (Bank 1) faulty

      Possible Solutions
      -Check Camshaft Adjustment Valve 1 (N205)
      --Perform Output Test
      -Check Wiring/Connectors from/to Camshaft Adjustment Valve 1 (N205)
      -Check Intake Camshaft Adjustment (Bank 1)
      --Perform Basic Setting
      --Check for Tightness of the Adjustment Mechanism
      --Check Engine Oil Pressure
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    18. 08-31-2010 03:34 PM #18
      First off none of these reponders have any idea of what they are talking about. "Slow response" is the adjuster not actually moving to where the ECM has directed it to in the amount of time it is supposed to take it to move. A cam positioner is neither the ajustment valve or the positon sensor. Slow reponse could be caused by sludge built up by not changing your oil enough.(really only 10k) Note that 10k oil change intervals with synthetic oil is the MINIMUM required to maintain warranty. Coupled with the misfires (most likely caused by valve lash adjusters gummed up) i would suggest you have a sludge issue. Desludge and change your oil more often.

    19. 08-31-2010 06:50 PM #19
      Sorry Arin@APR is on the right track. Diagnose.

    20. 09-05-2010 02:37 PM #20
      P000A/000010 - Camshaft A (Bank 1 Intake): Positioner Slow Response

      Possible Causes
      -Camshaft Adjustment Valve 1 (N205) faulty
      -Wiring/Connectors from/to Camshaft Adjustment Valve 1 (N205) faulty
      -Intake Camshaft Adjustment (Bank 1) faulty

      Possible Solutions
      -Check Camshaft Adjustment Valve 1 (N205)
      --Perform Output Test
      -Check Wiring/Connectors from/to Camshaft Adjustment Valve 1 (N205)
      -Check Intake Camshaft Adjustment (Bank 1)
      --Perform Basic Setting
      --Check for Tightness of the Adjustment Mechanism
      --Check Engine Oil Pressure

      Changed the N205 as I said and also checked the wiring (the mechanic measured some voltage/amperage values). Also checked the fuse. Performed the basic setting. What is "intake camshaft adjustement (bank 1) ? I will check the oil pressure and tighteness of the mechanism !
      Valves were cleaned 10k kms ago when I installed calico bearings and IE rods. OIL used is 300V 5W30 and is being changed about each 5-7k kms !
      Sorry but my english is not that good. Does "Sludge build up" mean carbon build up on the valves ?
      Last edited by fuscobal; 09-05-2010 at 02:49 PM.

    21. 09-07-2010 03:20 PM #21
      Sludge in this case would refer to engine oil contamination by carbon and other combustion materials and the firming up of the oil. Intake camshaft Adjustment is the amount the ECM expects the camshaft timing in relation to the crankshaft to have changed when the ECM commands a change. Camshaft timing is used for things like inducing EGR like operation by causing valve timing overlap. This overlap causes some exhaust gas to stay in the combustion chamber performing the duty of an EGR system).

    22. 10-31-2010 06:09 AM #22
      Hi guys, sorry for bringing up n old post but I to am having this fault and idle problem. How do you use vagcom to carry out the basic settings on the cam adjuster ?

    23. 01-25-2011 08:06 PM #23
      Same problem here idles rough and rpm bounce when the vehicle is stopped gets worse or better for no apparent reason. Replaced a broken sensor and it made no difference

    24. 01-25-2011 08:09 PM #24
      it cost me 150 for the cam position sensor..fyi also thermostat cause it was sticking...well maybe I replaced the sensor and the thermostat same time because they're both impossibly hard to get to.

    25. 03-18-2011 11:04 PM #25
      Can anyone tell me the part number for a 2006 audi a3 2.0t for the n205 valve?

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      07-12-2013 11:13 PM #26
      Just got a light says p000a on the reader I thought it could be the spark plugs so I changed those out. Still have a light so im going to check the cam follower tomorrow to see if its bad if that isnt it what else should I check? Any ideas? I read everyones response and it looks like a number of things.

    27. 07-13-2013 01:30 AM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by DREW88MK5 View Post
      Just got a light says p000a on the reader I thought it could be the spark plugs so I changed those out. Still have a light so im going to check the cam follower tomorrow to see if its bad if that isnt it what else should I check? Any ideas? I read everyones response and it looks like a number of things.
      Interesting...you say you read the responses above but you changed the sparks and now you want to do the cam follower. Do you see my huge post where it says exactly what to check for that error ? It's a camshaft related error wich means either its position is off (due to the tightening mecanism being loose or the camshaft was installed wrong if you had a timing belt change) or the sensor reading the position is defective (including the wiring) !

    28. Member
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      07-13-2013 02:00 AM #28
      Quote Originally Posted by fuscobal View Post
      Interesting...you say you read the responses above but you changed the sparks and now you want to do the cam follower. Do you see my huge post where it says exactly what to check for that error ? It's a camshaft related error wich means either its position is off (due to the tightening mecanism being loose or the camshaft was installed wrong if you had a timing belt change) or the sensor reading the position is defective (including the wiring) !
      not just on this thread but several others but ya where could I find that at or is it something I should take It in to get checked.

    29. 07-13-2013 03:12 AM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by DREW88MK5 View Post
      not just on this thread but several others but ya where could I find that at or is it something I should take It in to get checked.
      You need to get your car to a garage to check if the cams are properly aligned and if the timing belt is tightened. If there's nothing wrong, tell them to check N205 and wiring !

      If your car is tuned/driven hard, you should change the cam follower each 10-15k anyway for safety !

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      07-13-2013 04:05 PM #30
      Quote Originally Posted by fuscobal View Post
      You need to get your car to a garage to check if the cams are properly aligned and if the timing belt is tightened. If there's nothing wrong, tell them to check N205 and wiring !

      If your car is tuned/driven hard, you should change the cam follower each 10-15k anyway for safety !

      I found this


      looks to be the problem of that code completely ate through the follower

    31. 08-21-2013 11:33 AM #31
      Did you replace the N205?

      IS it hard to get access to??

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      08-22-2013 01:26 PM #32
      Guys, this is the TSI forum. You have the FSI engine. Pleas go to the right forum.

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