I was not able to remove the air box on the right side, but once I had done the left one (driver side) I was able to do the right one mostly by feel.
Some parts of this job were fairly obvious, but many were not. Here is a breadcrumb trail for those who follow:
**** SOME OF THE PICTURES THE ARE ESSENTIALLY THE SAME ON BOTH SIDES OF THE CAR. IN SUCH CASES, INSTRUCTIONS ARE NOT REPEATED AND THE PICTURE MAY BE FROM THE "WRONG" SIDE. ****
Removing the left (driver side) air box cover was relatively simple. The first thing I removed was the plug on the top of the air box cover.
It pulls straight up. In order to release the little catch, I gently pulled up on the clip that is on the outside of the plug as I pulled on the body of the plug.
The cable that runs to the plug also has a clip on it. It has sharp teeth on it that grip a little flange on the air box. I used a tiny flat-bladed screwdriver to release the clip without damaging it.
Next, I removed the large air induction tube that runs from the air box cover to the intake plenum. I used a large pair of channel lock pliers and I was very careful because the compression clips that hold this tube in place are very strong. I removed the tube from both ends.
It was necessary to reposition the spring clips on the intake plenum end before compressing them.
I used a flat-bladed screwdriver to gently unsnap the heat shield fabric from the air box cover.
Next I unscrewed the four phillips head screws on the corners of the air box cover. The screws are designed to stay in the cover. Once I had the cover lose I pulled slightly away from the air box, then gently poked the top of the air box cover into the space between the top of the air box and the fender.
I was able to lift the bottom edge of the air box cover past the engine.
I thought this was as good of time as any prepare the air box cover for re-installation. While pressing gently with a finger, I unscrewed each screw just a little further so that the screw stood out of the air box cover. This will greatly simplify the installation process.
Next I removed the air duct that feeds air from the grille area of the car into the air box. It is held in place with three torx 20 screws.
With the air duct out of the way, I was able to remove the air box itself. While it is possible to remove the air box with the snow screen in place, removing the snow screen at this step has two benefits: First, if it hasn't been removed recently, it's a good bet that it is dirty and; Second, the air intake opening that is hidden by the snow screen is the best place grip the air box while pulling it out of the grommets. (see below).
Here's what my snow screen looked like.
Needless to say, I cleaned them both as detailed in this discussion thread. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2435648
The snow screen on this side of my car has a slot in it that keeps it from sliding out of the air box once the single phillips screw that secures it is removed. The snow screen on other side of my car did not have a corresponding slot.
Here is the post that fits into that slot.
With the snow screen removed, I finally was able to remove the air box. The air box is held in place by one torx 30 screw that screws into a flange at the top center of the air box. I was very careful not to drop the screw when removing it.
Next, I pulled straight up on the air box itself. I used a gentle fore and aft rocking action while maintaing a firm pulling force. The air box is held in place by two posts.
The posts slide into these grommets.
When I had removed the air box from the car, I had an unobstructed view of the rear of the low beam headlight assembly.
The rear cover is held onto the headlight assembly by two spring clips that pivot away from each other much like a set of barn doors. I found it beneficial to gently pull the topmost "hinge" (it's really just a stiff wire poked into a hole in the body of the headlight assembly) of the inboard clip out of its hole.
The rear cover just pulls straight off and revels the rear of the light bulb.
Note the top "hinge" of the clip has been pulled out.
The plug in the back of the headlight bulb is held only by friction. I pulled it straight down and out of the bulb.
The bulb is held into the headlight assembly by a clip that unlatches and opens like a door. Once the clip was unlatched, I removed the bulb by pulling it straight out. The base of the bulb fits into the headlight assembly. Not require much force is required to remove it or to reinsert the new one.
Close-up of the latch that holds the bulb retaining clip closed.
Old bulb after removal.
Everything went back together just as it came apart.
The right (passenger) side was a different story. I chose to change both bulbs even though my left one had never shown any signs of trouble. I did so for a number of reasons. Chief among them was that I needed to see how the bulb fit into the assembly and that was not possible to do by just removing the right side.
Replacing the right side bulb is the same process as the left one, except.....
The air duct on the right side has two screws securing it instead of three.
The upper rearmost screw of the air box cover is difficult to reach, but can accessed like this:
The air box cover must be rotated in place in order to remove it from the car.
When reinstalling the air box cover, I had to gently move these hoses out of the way as I rotated it into place.
I was not able to remove the right air box from the car, but I was able to push it out of the way by pulling it out of the grommets and pushing it as far forward (toward the front of the car) as possible. This allowed me just enough room to replace the bulb.
There is an electric cable that runs behind the headlight assembly. This cable needed to be gently pushed up and outboard in order to remove and reinstall the headlight assembly cover.
I also found it very helpful to gently unhinge the top of the inboard spring clip while removing the cover. (See above for photo of left side)
The clip that secures the headlight bulb into the assembly hinges from outboard side while working on the right (passenger) side of the car. That differs from the left (driver) side where it hinges from the inboard side. To be a little more specific, if you were to position the two headlight assemblies side by side, the clips that secure the headlight bulbs would both hinge from the same direction. I would have expected them to be mirror images of each other.
That's about it. Do the left first, and the right one won't be that much more difficult.
Modified by 357Sig at 12:09 AM 10-5-2009