My MKII GTI 20V 1.8T AWP Swap

[Batrugger]

Looking good!!!!

Thanks for your help

I just read the whole damn thing! I like this build, I shall watch. omnom popcorn

Thanks

Any updates?

I spent two weeks in Arkansas for some Army training and then had a week to get ready for Wuste. Just got back yesterday so it has been all about the wife's MINI lately. She did get 1st place in the "All Other Euro" category so all of the hard work was worth it plus it was a great time. If you were there and voted for her, thanks :



Now I can get back to working on this. I notched the front cross member so the SAI will fit and I am going to get it reinforced this week. Once that is done, the engine will be in to stay and most of the work in there is finished. The new goal is to drive it to the Big SoCal Euro GTG so we will see how that goes.

[Batrugger]

Since I live in California and am going to register this car as an engine change so it will be legal, I have to run the smog pump. The big problem with that is that the pump won't fit because of the front cross member. My fabricator who did the engine bay for me told me to go ahead and cut out the area where the pump was hitting and he would reinforce it for me so here is what I did:



and here is how it fits:



I took the cross member to him and here is what he did to it:





He builds custom hotrods and he said that he wanted it to look clean and OEM instead of just welding up the cut out area. I think it looks awesome and should be plenty strong enough:



He also fabricated the spacer and bolts for the shifter:





I got my Eurojet street core and front grill:



Since I am going to have the AC condenser from the MKIV and the inner headlights on the quad round grill, there will be no room to mount the intercooler behind the grill. I have a new small euro bumper on the way from TM Tuning so while I am waiting for that I got an old small bumper that I have laying around to see how it will all fit. Here is a quick mock up of what it is going to look like:



My fabricator said he will do something nice to get it mounted. Right now I am waiting for the front bumper to get here next week and the engine is going in for the last time. Everything is going to be plugged in , wired, connected, and filled by the next weekend. I f I get all that done, I should be able to start it by next weekend. I am taking the two steering columns to my fabricator today to get the MKIV column adapted. Once that is done it will be time to get the dash sorted out. I am starting to see a light at the end of the tunnel.

[Batrugger]

I have been waiting a long time to get the shifter back because it needed the one inch spacer to be installed and sit correctly. I cleaned out the original mounting underneath the car for the shifter and got it bolted in:



I decided to see what it would look like with the center console and here is what it looked like:



Unfortunately it is sitting too low so I took the spacer off and re-installed it and it fit perfect with the center console:



Basically all of the DIY for this were to fit it with a MK2 center console. Since I am using the MKIV one, it would have worked perfect without being modified so I could have had this in a long time ago. I will need to mount a small strip of metal across the back to bolt the rear of it though.

[Batrugger]

When I started this I knew that the three big hassles for me were going to be the shifter, steering column, and dash. Well now the shifter is finished and in:



The steering column is done:





So that is two of the holdups checked off the list. To mount the column and dash, I am going to cut and have the metal dash support from the MKIV welded in so it will bolt right in.

I also got some more powder coating done:





And some pretty stuff from TM Tuning showed up:



E-Code inner and outer crystal lights, new clean Euro front and rear bumpers, and crystal front turn signals to go with the new badge-less quad round grill that I already had. I need to finish torquing everything on the engine and it will go in tonight for the final time.

[halchka99]

it looks like you reused the the crank bolt? (big center bolt that holds the timing gear) that is a stretch bolt and cannot be reused.

maybe it just looks reused not sure but just a heads up.

also, my car is also registered as a motor swap and when doing smog an obdII scan is not required by law, infact not even on the dyno, just needs to pass a tail pipe sniffer.

[hellgti]

[Batrugger]

it looks like you reused the the crank bolt? (big center bolt that holds the timing gear) that is a stretch bolt and cannot be reused.

maybe it just looks reused not sure but just a heads up.

Thanks for the heads up. This is why i post this here. I didn't remove it, but the PO did a timing belt/ water pump change shortly before the car was totalled. I'll take a look at it. Are you talking about the bolt that is in the center of the crank pulley? What should i look for to show it was removed?

also, my car is also registered as a motor swap and when doing smog an obdII scan is not required by law, infact not even on the dyno, just needs to pass a tail pipe sniffer.

That is great to know. If that is the case, I may be able to bring to the Big SoCal Euro GTG. I am going to get it started this week and drive to my fabricator. Once it is there, we are going to get the intercooler and dash done and it should be ready for the inspection.

[mushroom_curry]

Sick sick sick!!! looking good!

Love that front cross member fix versus notching her out!

[halchka99]

Thanks for the heads up. This is why i post this here. I didn't remove it, but the PO did a timing belt/ water pump change shortly before the car was totalled. I'll take a look at it. Are you talking about the bolt that is in the center of the crank pulley? What should i look for to show it was removed?

That is great to know. If that is the case, I may be able to bring to the Big SoCal Euro GTG. I am going to get it started this week and drive to my fabricator. Once it is there, we are going to get the intercooler and dash done and it should be ready for the inspection.

oh right on, i thought you had removed it all while getting your motor put together. you dont remove it for timing belt change so you should be okay. also the 4 little alen bolts that hold the pulley to the crank are also required to be changed and not reused. same with the power steering.

[Batrugger]

oh right on, i thought you had removed it all while getting your motor put together. you dont remove it for timing belt change so you should be okay. also the 4 little alen bolts that hold the pulley to the crank are also required to be changed and not reused. same with the power steering.

Okay thanks again

[Batrugger]

Got the engined torqued, all the hoses clamped, and then dropped it in for the final time:



Here you can see that there is plenty of room for the SAI pump:



and the clutch master cylinder and shifter cables are attached to the trans:




Today after work I am going to connect the axles, hook up the harness, and get the radiator, power steering, and AC lines connected.

[Greg_J]

amazing

[Batrugger]

I got all of the wires connected in the bay except for the lights because I will have to modify all of those. I still need to figure out connecting the battery as well since it is inside now and the DIY I was using from the MKIV forum is MIA after the forum switch. I got everything in the rain tray situated and the main harness in the cover. I put the front support on a little pre-maturely, but I wanted to see how it was all going to look. Tomorrow i am going to pull the support back off and run the power steering and AC lines. Once I get those on, the radiator goes in. If I can figure the battery out, I should be able to get it started by Sunday.

[hmoreira]

good job, going to fly when finished

[halchka99]

let me know if you need help, pics etc... my battery is in my trunk so i can take pics for you

[zamergli]

hey man let me know if you still have the grill whi the midle lights i am interested

[Batrugger]

good job, going to fly when finished

Thanks, I can't wait for that first drive

let me know if you need help, pics etc... my battery is in my trunk so i can take pics for you

Sounds great. Let me get some more pics of specific wires later today. I think I have it figured out, but it would be great to get your opinion

hey man let me know if you still have the grill whi the midle lights i am interested

If you mean the grill with the cross hairs, it is the same grill, I just swapped out the lights. I wanted to go with all cross hairs, but I couldn't find headlights in stock anywhere. I have an old badged grill and the inner cross hairs are brand new and never used. I was going to sell them eventually.

[Batrugger]

Today I figured out where the rest of the connections go, bolted the hoses to the AC compressor and the power steering pump. This is going to be a busy weekend so i don't think I will be able to get back to it until Sunday.

let me know if you need help, pics etc... my battery is in my trunk so i can take pics for you

I think I have it sorted. I removed the fuse box from the top of the battery, lengthened all of the wires, and moved it into the car. I have the battery in back and enough welding cable to reach from it to the fuse box where the old positive terminal is. The only thing I needed to clarify were these two wires, one from the alternator and the other from the trans and starter:



I believe that I need to ground the wire with the old negative terminal to the chassis or run it all the way back to the battery for an even better ground, and the other I need to lengthen and bolt into the 5 slot on the fuse box that was on the battery. LMK if I'm wrong.

[hiawata]

If I were you, and what I will do on my car, is to leave that fusebox from the battery in the engine bay. And just have one fat cable going from the battery in the rear to the fusebox in front. The grounding will be in the chassis in the rear and in the engine bay as you said.

[Batrugger]

If I were you, and what I will do on my car, is to leave that fusebox from the battery in the engine bay. And just have one fat cable going from the battery in the rear to the fusebox in front. The grounding will be in the chassis in the rear and in the engine bay as you said.

Thanks for the confirmation. I had planned on that, but it just looked so messy in there. I had already extended everything else, I just forgot that one wire since it was off of the main harness when I did it. It is kind of past the point of no return on this.

[Batrugger]

Today was a drinking and swimming day, but I added a sticker, so I took a shot to show how bad the rest of the car looks:





You can see the rear of my 87 Scirocco, my 04.5 GLI, and the top of our new dog Titus

[Batrugger]

I just bolted in my polished AC lines:



I had to change the coolant flange on my MKIV GLI so while I was in there I pulled the battery box and was able to see where all of the wiring hooks up so I will have that straightened out pretty soon on this car. All that is left is to get the fuel lines connected, the radiator, and the AC condenser and it should be almost there.

[TDI 150cv]

fantastic Work.........................


Thank you for pics

[Batrugger]

fantastic Work.........................


Thank you for pics

Thanks AC, power steering, radiator, and downpipe are connected. I still need to mount and connect the intercooler, get the cables for the battery relocation, hook up the ignition and cluster and it should fire. I also bought vag-com to tweak everything after I get it started. Here is how it is all fitting in the bay:









Hopefully it all works when it starts. I also decided that since I have the interior stripped, I am going to have a cage put in by my fabricator Ken Leet at Leet Auto Design. He is also going to fabricate brake lines, mount the intercooler, and fab a column mount out of the MKIV dash support. It is going over there after the weekend and when it comes back it should be driving

[foxracr95]

Wow what a great thread.. Sweet build.. Wish there was no rust cars in the northeast

[phatKat]

awesome build. more please...

[CSMK2VR]

Sexy. SEXy. SEXY! ! ! ! Keep up the awesome work.

[Batrugger]

Well I am getting close now. I got the battery hooked up and the cluster had power. I tried to start it, but it would not crank. I hooked up my VAG-COM and coded the CAN Gateway to all zeros so it wouldn't look for airbags and ABS. Hopefully I can get some help from someone out there. Here is what I have:

Chassis Type: 1J - VW Golf/Bora IV
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57 75
76

VIN: 9BWKE61JX34071228 Mileage: 180500km/112157miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AWP.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 PL
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0003
Coding: 07510
Shop #: WSC 79159
9BWKE61JX34071228 VWZ7Z0C7149138

2 Faults Found:
17931 - Crash Signal from Airbag Controller: Implausible Signal
P1523 - 35-00 - -
18057 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ABS Controller
P1649 - 35-00 - -
Readiness: 0110 1101

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1J0-920-xx5-17.lbl
Part No: 1J6 920 906
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V07
Coding: 07234
Shop #: WSC 00000
9BWKE61JX34071228 VWZ7Z0C7149138

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
Part No: 6N0 909 901
Component: Gateway K<->CAN 0001
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 00001

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1C0-959-799.lbl
Part No: 1C0 959 799 C
Component: 8B Komfortgerát HLO 0003
Coding: 00064
Shop #: WSC 00001

Part No: Steuerger
Component: t Fahr. antwortet nicht

Part No: Steuerger
Component: t Beif. antwortet nicht

No Faults Found
or DTCs not supported by controller
or a communication error occurred

End ---------------------------------------------------------------------

[zamergli]

ok look, i am not a expert, but do you connect the cluster?, bc when my friend make a swap like yours he forget to connect the cluster, and the car start for like 2 seconds and go down, and he connect the cluster again and come back get start, some times are the immo system or the key let me know if you connect all from this list

ecu
key
cluster
immo box

if this is all from same car, but if this is from different cars, man you need to progrma all in ones,
oh i almost forget, from what car (year) is the donor car, bc if this is immo 3 you have a lot of work whit the can bus but i can tell you were you can fine info,

AND SORRY FOR MY BAD ENGLISH, THIS IS MY SECOND LANGUISH

[Batrugger]

Thanks for the heads up. I have all of those connected and they are all from the same car. The starter is not cranking at all. I am going to get home and break out the voltmeter and try to see what is happening. I am thinking it has to be a bad ground, relay, fuse, or just something not connected right.

[halchka99]

you are using an mk4 cluster right? did you also swap out your gas tank and intank to get proper gas readings?

[Batrugger]

the cluster, ECU, key, and harness are all from the same car that the engine came out of. The MKIV pump will not fit in the MK2 tank and the MKIV tank will not fit on the MK2, but there is a mod to the sender that can be done so it reads correctly instead of backwards.

[zamergli]

your right man if don't start at all check the starter or terminals for ground and also yo can see if in the fuse box the fuse of the gas or the engine is good bc some times happen to y friend this so let me know

[halchka99]

an mk3 tank bolts right up, then you can use the mk4 pump

[veedubv5]

Hi
What you can do to see if the electrics are ok, just get direct fused +ve feed into the starter motor while the ignition switch is on. (make sure its not in gear) and see if it cranks then!
If it cranks then you got an open circuit somewhere.
Good Luck and let us know how is goes.