LOL, Yeah I knew I would get some crazy responses from that. What "kind" of paint, not what color. Its going all black BTW. Should i just go with spray bomb stuff or should i use automotive epoxy primer and the factory body color black?
#36
Lavender
#37
LOL, Yeah I knew I would get some crazy responses from that. What "kind" of paint, not what color. Its going all black BTW. Should i just go with spray bomb stuff or should i use automotive epoxy primer and the factory body color black?
96 Jetta 5pd
worked head w/276
C2 Stg2 (works like crap)
#38
Got the distributor our, just needed a hammer. It's all broken down and ready for a trip to the machine shop. Only 1 main bearing was down to the copper.
96 Jetta 5pd
worked head w/276
C2 Stg2 (works like crap)
#39
CC'ed the chambers. Got around 33cc's. Does that sound right? Does anyone know any chamber size to comp ratio stuff figures? I've heard people say that these engines are anywhere from 9:1 to 10.7:1 comp ratio stock, what is it?? Of course the search is disabled while they rebuild.
Got the trans back from the shop Thursday. IDK if it works yet. I can't spin the axles in opposite directions like I assumed I should be able to. Is this normal? Sometime I'll put a shift lever on it and try to run it through the gears.
Does anyone have a good source to get fittings to install an oil pressure gauge?
#41
whats the mileage on that motor? i pulled the head off of mine at 120xxx and it looked cleaner than that
#42
I think it has about 176k on it. I was surprised at how clean the intake ports were.
#43
So both heads I have are cracked in #1 chamber between the valve seats... I thought I read of people using the heads like this without problems. One of the heads i bought on a running engine and it ran strong. The concern I have is that i will be putting bigger valve seats in and I don't know if the head will hold up to the machining process. I don't want to have any problems with this thing when i put it back in the car. Should I just look for another head?
The valve kit I'm going to be using.
http://techtonicstuninginc.com/main/...roducts_id=142
#44
Got my block back from my buddy who glass beaded it for me. Next it's off to the machine shop with the stuff. I'll try to post a pic of the block. A problem I noticed is that the sealing surface where the water pump bolts to the block is corroded where the o-ring sat. Hopefully some good RTV will hold it. It's pretty bad. Any suggestions on a fix?
#47
AEG Manifold
OBD I Head
TT 276 cam
Adjustable Cam gear
Light Weight Lifters
Mildly Ported, Port Matched and Polished Runners and Chambers
TT 42mm and 35mm valves
Shaved Head, Amount to be determined
83.5mm Forged Pistons stock comp.
Stock rods & crank
Light Weight Flywheel
Will it make 140whp?
#48
Maybe/maybe not. Hard to say with a stock manifold. You will have retarded low end torque (below 4500rpms).
#49
Block crank and rods off to APTuning! Going with JE pistons. Gotta schedule some dyno time to get a before reading.
#50
I was working on port matching the exhaust and tried to set the header on the head and line up the holes.... Once I lined up one port the closest one was 1/8" offI hate crappy junk. But, I also hate spending $300 for some tubing. So I'm planning on using lots of heat and maybe having the flanges machined flat once i get them all lined up.
Stupid OBX!!!![]()
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#51
wait wait wait...back on page 1 you said you were using 87 octane gas with the PEM stage 2? correct me if im wrong but dosent that require 93 octane? hence the ricockulous timing?
#52
I ran 87 with the S2 all winter long NO ISSUES. This was on a stock head/cam setup. For the hell of it, I dropped in a tank of 93 and the timing didnt advance all that much more at a lower rpm/load. Maybe 2*? At WOT, it advanced the same...about 27*-30* (rpm-dependent) And up until my car burnt, I was using 89 octane and there was no difference in timing.
About the header not lining up.....They all come like that. Its not a big deal. You just persuade it on with a rubber mallet. NOT a big deal. I had to do that to both of mine when I put it on. And the OBX isnt a crap header.
#53
Yeah, you are supposed to run 93 with the stg 2. I wanted to see if and how much timing it would pull on 87. I do think it runs better on 93 as opposed to 87.
I did get the header on an old head that still had the studs in it. I think I'm going to sand down the flange to try to get it to seal. When you put a straight edge across the flanges there is also an 1/8 inch gap and one of the flanges isn't even straight. If this isn't a cheap poorly made header, I would hate to see one. But, I cant say I wasn't expecting to have this problem.
Maybe if I was bolting this to a iron head I would be able to draw the nuts down tight enough to make it seal, MAYBE. I don't feel like stripping out the threads on my good ported head....
Got the intake ports finished up last night. Now I just have to figure out if there is anything else I can do with the exhaust ports. I can't really open them up any because the header is the same size as the factory ports. I already did the short side radius.
#54
FINALLY! Got the head done tonight. Couldn't do much with the exhaust ports because the header so closely matches it. Cleaned up the chamber side as well. Off to get the bigger seats put in and check it out again to make sure everything is still smooth. After that I just have to get on APTuning to get that crap done!
Then put it all back together...![]()
#55
Got the header wrapped tonight. I need the tool to tighten the wrap straps... I broke one so now I gotta order more. I think it turned out decent. I'll post some pics then.
#57
Does anyone know where i can get a complete parts list of all the seals and things I would need for a rebuild? I have a FelPro kit # CS26164 but it doesn't include every single thing.
#58
Love the thread awesome to see another person building a 2.0 good luck!
#59
Got the block back from the shop. Now waiting on the head and parts.... This had better be good!
I'm the only one I know of who will be running this valve kit. Also, I don't think anyone else will do it with a stock MK3 mani! i will be eventually going to a modified MK4 but i'm hoping it makes some serious tq down low for daily driving with this mani. My cam will be a mis-match, but well see how it runs.
How is the baffle setup in the oil pan. There is a baffle that clips onto the pump pickup right? Whats the purpose? I assume to keep the oil in the sump for cornering and such. Is that all?
Last edited by macanic21; 08-16-2010 at 11:58 AM.
#60
Let me know when you're ready to ditch stock manifolds and want to spend the coin on an SRI. {I.E. when you're ready to make some real hp.)![]()
#61
I'm pretty sure I won't ever want to do that. If I need more hp than this, I think I'll get something else. It's just not worth it.
#62
Just saying...stock manifolds are a major bottleneck. All that head work and you limit yourself.
#63
Something is just not rite here with that timing graph. and you were running 87 octane? with 40*+ degrees of time. ?
i call shenanigans
#64
looking back at that chart, I just noticed that his timing spiked to 40* right when he let off the gas. So he wanst running WOT when it spiked. His timing looks about right under acceleration low-mid 30's.
#65
#66
naaa, its true about the timing relation with being off-FOT. i didnt notice that part.
#68
#69
APTuning is severely aggravating me! They have screwed around for 2 months getting my parts together. Then I went in last week and they told me "yeah, we have all the stuff but we can't find the cam caps..." Great, now the head I spend weeks on is now junk! I'm going in tomorrow and pick up the parts and I'm not paying for them until they produce a ported 8v head! I'm never going to these people again.
#70
bah go grab some off a junkyard head and have a shop line-bore the cam journals. easy peasy.