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    Thread: The Thread Build (BuildUp:)

    1. Member macanic21's Avatar
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      09-16-2010 10:07 PM #76
      FINALLY got the head back from the shop. They "found" my cam caps but I don't think they are mine. They didn't shave the head like I told them too either. I also didn't get my nuts and stud returned either for the caps. I'm going to take it to a machine shop that has done good work for me before and have them check the alignment of the caps and deck the head.

      How much should I have taken off this thing so I'm just at the limit of compression on 91 octane? Keep in mind I have a 276* cam so dynamic compression will be much lower than stock.

    2. Member macanic21's Avatar
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      09-27-2010 12:14 PM #77
      WOW, Finally got the truth from someone, well maybe. They said the machine shop threw away my cam caps with another 8v head that was junk. They are now going to get a new set of caps, align hone them, and discount the machine work...

      How much should I deck the head?

      Everyone should do bigger valves to these heads. In addition to the bigger valves, it enables the short side radius to be lengthened. Also, the bowl area instead of curving back towards the intake as it comes up to the valve seat, is now straight from the base of the bowl up to the valve seat. I could also expand the sidewalls so that the port does not choke down as much when it makes the turn to the valve. I think this will make a huge difference in the flow numbers. I would love to see flow numbers on ported head with and without these valves and seats.

    3. Member macanic21's Avatar
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      10-21-2010 09:27 PM #78
      Dropped the head off at APTuning again. The said it should be done by Tuesday. So, I'm hoping its done by the end of the week. Then I can finally get some motivation to put this thing back together!

    4. Member
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      1992 MR2 turbo
      10-21-2010 11:20 PM #79
      i'd like to see some flow numbers when its all said and done if you dont mind. if the machine shop does this enough, they should have the equipment readily available to give you flow numbers with your cam.

      very curious as im assembling funds right now to send my OBD1 aba off to SCCH for stage 3 porting as well as the TT 42/35 kit and then swain technologies for coatings, although mine will end up with a turbo setup.

      I'd like to know some flow numbers.

      If you're going all motor with an aggressive cam, maybe you should even consider a solid lifter conversion to add some RPMs up top. Its pretty pricey from what i've heard/read/been told but theres simply no other way to safely get up past ~7500.

    5. Member macanic21's Avatar
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      10-25-2010 07:16 PM #80
      I also would love to know flow #'s. Unfortunately I don't know of anyone around me that can flow it... I'll give you some HP #'s once I get it together. The only good things that came out of this is that they are going to throw in some free dyno time and discount the machining.

    6. Member
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      1994 vw golf
      10-26-2010 10:33 AM #81
      nice build, pretty close to where i was thinking about taking my aba if i end up deciding against the vr swap.



      P.S. i second that bfi needs to send stickers when you order there stuff. i just spent 300 with them and no stickers lol.
      Last edited by SPJosh1890; 10-26-2010 at 10:36 AM.

    7. Member GTijoejoe's Avatar
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      10-26-2010 02:33 PM #82
      Quote Originally Posted by SPJosh1890 View Post


      P.S. i second that bfi needs to send stickers when you order there stuff. i just spent 300 with them and no stickers lol.
      I usually throw them away

      I didn't read every single post, but about your water pump sealing area on your block being pitted from corrosion....
      RTV may work..... the least cost effective way would be to get it ground/welded and remachined. Welding cast iron blocks is 100% possible, the machine shop I had do my block has welded many many blocks in their experience (farm/tractor/big rig equpitment). Just some info for anyone else who was curious if it already hasen't been said.
      Last edited by GTijoejoe; 10-26-2010 at 02:51 PM.
      2.0T+034efi+meth = 300+whp = Part out PM me for anything

    8. Member
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      10-26-2010 02:37 PM #83
      Quote Originally Posted by GTijoejoe View Post
      I usually throw them away
      well next time your about to toss some ill give you and address to send them to lol



      UPDATES?????
      Last edited by SPJosh1890; 10-27-2010 at 01:37 PM.

    9. Member macanic21's Avatar
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      11-01-2010 09:41 PM #84
      Surprise! the head isn't done... I'm going to call them tomorrow and tell them I'm picking it up Friday whether its done or not. They seem to work best under an ultimatum.

    10. Member macanic21's Avatar
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      11-04-2010 09:59 PM #85
      Finally got my head back! Align honed decked .020" and assembled. Now I have to check the bearing clearances and hope they didn't ruin my head. I think the factory bearing clearance limit is .005-.006" for the cam journals. Does anyone know if I can run more than that safely?

      It was .004" when bought it.

      It looks SICK!!

    11. Member
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      11-05-2010 02:56 PM #86
      Quote Originally Posted by macanic21 View Post
      It looks SICK!!
      prove it!

    12. Member
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      1992 MR2 turbo
      11-05-2010 03:02 PM #87
      ditto. what he said. i agree. pics are necessary. we will be the judge of the sickness.

    13. Member GTijoejoe's Avatar
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      11-05-2010 09:36 PM #88
      Quote Originally Posted by nextproject View Post
      ditto. what he said. i agree. pics are necessary. we will be the judge of the sickness.
      2.0T+034efi+meth = 300+whp = Part out PM me for anything

    14. Member macanic21's Avatar
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      11-08-2010 12:39 PM #89
      lol yeah, I know. My upload speeds at my house are so SLOW.... I'll have to get some pics on my work laptop and upload them at work. I know I gotta get some pics up....

    15. Member macanic21's Avatar
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      11-10-2010 10:43 AM #90
      Last edited by macanic21; 11-10-2010 at 10:48 AM.

    16. Member
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      11-10-2010 11:25 AM #91
      well you were right.

      big difference

      ITS SICK!!!

    17. 11-10-2010 11:42 AM #92
      Answer your damn PM....I got an offer you won't be able to refuse.

    18. Member macanic21's Avatar
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      11-10-2010 03:06 PM #93
      Replied

    19. Member
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      11-10-2010 05:37 PM #94
      looks pretty damn good. wish it came with flow numbers, but oh well. what are you going with for management? i dont know if a chipped setup will work. you may have already mentioned it but im on the work computer and am too lazy to go back and see if you did.

    20. Member macanic21's Avatar
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      11-10-2010 09:36 PM #95
      I'm running C2 stage 2 chip for 272* and up cam. It should work. Not saying its going to get me as much HP as stand alone, but it should work.

      http://www.flickr.com/photos/55722023@N05/5165911280/

      I was thinking as I put my head on tonight:
      Is there a way I could get the cam 180* out of phase with the crank? And then what about the distributor? I think the cam will not be an issue as long as I line up the timing marks. Then its just a matter of the distributor. I gotta read through the bently again. Anyone have any advice to make sure I don't bend valves and get it running the first time?
      Last edited by macanic21; 11-10-2010 at 10:45 PM.

    21. Member GTijoejoe's Avatar
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      11-11-2010 09:30 AM #96
      The dizzy is a little tricky in my experience and opinion. You get that off by a few teeth and no start

      You need to losen the belt up and spin that gear until you are certain that the dizzy (rotor) lines up with the timing mark... move it back and forth until you are certain that the middle is the middle (rotate the gear until the rotor moves after the timing mark and than before), and then pull up on the belt tight until it slips into the cog gear than wrap it up to the gear (hold the gear too so it doesn't move as you wrap the belt to the cam). Normally you have to rotate the cam only slightly to get a good tight belt to fit... the timing mark on the cam is not always perfect it will/can be off just slightly but the motor will be timed.

      I hope that helps
      (I've done it... ALOT)
      2.0T+034efi+meth = 300+whp = Part out PM me for anything

    22. 11-11-2010 09:34 AM #97
      The C2 chip will work perfectly fine with any cam up to a 288* .

    23. Member macanic21's Avatar
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      11-14-2010 04:10 PM #98
      I'm more worried about bending valves. But, I set #1 to TDC and the mark on the cam gear is lined up with the timing mark on the plastic. Once I get ready to put the belt on I'll put the stock balancer on for temporary reference so that is exact. I really can't see how I could run into any problems??

    24. Member GTijoejoe's Avatar
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      11-14-2010 08:23 PM #99
      Quote Originally Posted by macanic21 View Post
      I'm more worried about bending valves. But, I set #1 to TDC and the mark on the cam gear is lined up with the timing mark on the plastic. Once I get ready to put the belt on I'll put the stock balancer on for temporary reference so that is exact. I really can't see how I could run into any problems??
      You shouldn't be able to get the cam timing off by that much for bending valves....
      If you do, than you'll be band from getting within 10 foot radius from any automobile with tools
      2.0T+034efi+meth = 300+whp = Part out PM me for anything

    25. Member macanic21's Avatar
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      11-17-2010 12:34 PM #100
      haha alright alright.

      Got the block painted Monday. Now, I gotta pull the pan off the old motor to make sure of how the pump and stuff goes together. Once that is done I'll put the timing belt on and start on the accessories!

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