NEW- Lets see your 16V TURBO 16VT with SPECS!

[MK1 Rabbit GTI]

i'd love to see your car on a mustang dyno

[16v lover]

iv only got a dyno sheet of the old test motor but i dont have a scanner to copy it onto the cpu

[Battleaxesatdawn]

It is pretty early for a 16 valve to peak, would be nice to see another sheet from the fine tune


Modified by Battleaxesatdawn at 5:05 PM 12-25-2009

[thepaintcanman]

9a 16v
9:1 weisco .40 over
cat 265/262 cams
port and bowl work
supertech oversized valves both sides
evo 3 16g
kinetic manifold and downpipe
autotech light adj cam gear
lightweight balanced IM shaft
Scat light rods from Isaam (INA)
boost factory SRI
Old Skool Ind. light weight crank and alt pulley
Gruven parts water pump pulley
DRS trap door oil pan
INA ABF OE set - up
Digi 1 with custom SNS program
17 psi mild tune

[Jeebus]

Quote, originally posted by 16v lover »

Looks like the engine needs a lot more work you run out of power at 4000rpm Modified by 16v lover at 10:52 AM 12-25-2009

Was this to me? if so... you need to look at the graph again.

[thepaintcanman]

jeebus, you know you car is slow.

[MK1 Rabbit GTI]

i think he was looking at your torque curve. it peaks at 4000, then slowly drops off as your boost continues.

mustang dyno i say!!!

[Jeebus]

Yeah it's worse cause I had a MBC on it and it spiked a few PSI earlier on. You can see that at the bottom of the graph.

I bought a APEXi AVCR to help eliminate that issue.

[o2bad455]

I didn't build it, but bought it (back) broken and will make it better.

Current config:
A1 Chassis
2.0L ABA short block with stock 159mm rods and clearanced stock ABA pistons
2.0L 16V 9A IMshaft/cogs/OilPump
1.8L 16V PL cylinder head
8.3:1 Compression Ratio
151 tooth timing belt
Custom (16vturbo gti) short runner intake, currently with 2.0L OBD1 TB
Custom (16vturbo gti) tubular turbo exhaust header (a work of art)
Holset HY-35 oil-cooled 55 lb/hour (480 whp?) turbo
integral wastegate (10 psi spring, pick up off compressor housing)
MBC
1.8T DV (plumbed as dump)
Cowl mounted K&N intake
FMIC 28x9x3
Turbo spools at 3500 to 4500 rpm running 20-22 psi with 79% efficiency (34 psi capable with 77% efficiency, but not on current engine internals)
2.5" downpipe with 3" exhaust
Siemens 630cc injectors
LC1 wide band
Digi-1 with stock 1 Bar MAP sensor and custom SNS chip, connection for external MAP (e.g., GM 3 Bar)
ACT clutch
Custom shimmed Mk3 020 gearbox
11.60 in 1/4 mile (about 300 whp?)

Plans:

Phase 1:
Upgrade rods (leaning towards IE H-beam)
Upgrade pistons (leaning towards custom very low compression JE, maybe 7:1)
Raise oil return from pan to block
Gauges
Brakes to G60 or better
Quaife or Peloquin TBD
Dyno time

Phase 2:
P&P Head
Dual exhaust cam mod
Lightweight pulleys
Walbro high-flow fuel pump
Bigger TB (OBD1 VR6 or Mustang 70mm?), and/or compare Euro 50mm Scirocco intake
Try to squeeze 3" downpipe in place of 2.5"
MSnS3 with sequential injection
Lightweight Flywheel
Shine Racing Services high-HP 020 rebuild
RollCage
More dyno time


Modified by o2bad455 at 6:36 AM 12-29-2009

[Greengt1]

Quote, originally posted by thepaintcanman »

what did you do to get the heater hoses to work with the turbo?... special fittings or special hoses?.... i was wondering where to do my water hoses for my turbo...

[o2bad455]

Quote, originally posted by Greengt1 »

what did you do to get the heater hoses to work with the turbo?... special fittings or special hoses?.... i was wondering where to do my water hoses for my turbo...

I was admiring that as well, but my question is whether the stock plastic-sided heater core can take the heat, or did you find/make an all-metal heater core?

[thepaintcanman]

I track (road race and track days) my car so keep this in mind, I have ran the hoses both ways ie, into the turbo first then the core then the core then into the turbo. No failure either way. It would be smartest to run the heat into the core then into the turbo. LAst track session I got the turbo hot enough to remelt and bubble my ceramic coating, it was in August as well and oil temps hit over 290 and the heater core was fine.

[Sparknock]

Quote, originally posted by Greengt1 »

what did you do to get the heater hoses to work with the turbo?... special fittings or special hoses?.... i was wondering where to do my water hoses for my turbo...

looks like a -10 AN hose fitting with push lock ends for the hoses.

[o2bad455]

Anyone have a job or part # for a very low compression ratio 16VT piston? I'm looking for 7:1, but the lowest off-the-shelf CR from JE, Wiseco or Wossner seems to be around 8:1.

[o2bad455]

Quote, originally posted by 16V-Dub »

. . . Throttle body: obd1 vr . . . Management: digi 1 w/ SNS chip Injectors: 630cc siemens Spark plugs: NGK BKR7E .025" gap . . .

I've also got the Digi-1 with SNS. Unfortunately, I've got a modded 2L TB that seems a bit restrictive. Does the stock OBD1 VR6 TB have idle and full-throttle switches that work with Digi-1 SNS, or did it have to be modded?

[Sparknock]

dude you could do a 16v ABA with out swapping piston IIRC that like 7:1 or something very close. but why? your off boost power will be slower them an ME diesel.

[o2bad455]

Thanks for the reply. Stock ABA pistons is what I've got now, and it's between 8:1 and 8.5:1 (might potentially have been a couple of 10th lower if my head hadn't been shaved during rebuild).

A CR of 7:1 (or even lower) could make MOHAHAMORE POWR on boost I'm thinking that if I get the squish just right it might not be all that bad off boost either (maybe down 10% from present, which would still be streetable IMHO). Anyway, this car is destined for the track.

So, still looking for 7:1 (or lower) CR pistons if anyone has a lead. I read in another thread that someone does have them, but now can't find the thread and my search keeps coming up empty


Modified by o2bad455 at 9:01 PM 1-1-2010

[sp_golf]

Quote, originally posted by o2bad455 »

Anyone have a job or part # for a very low compression ratio 16VT piston? I'm looking for 7:1, but the lowest off-the-shelf CR from JE, Wiseco or Wossner seems to be around 8:1.

That's pointless, you can make 400+whp on 9:1 and pump gas. Why do you want such a low CR? 7:1 will be a dog off boost and you'll need more boost to make the same power.

[Jeebus]

What he /\ said.

[o2bad455]

Quote, originally posted by sp_golf »

That's pointless, you can make 400+whp on 9:1 and pump gas.

I don't think I've said how many hp I'm shooting for, but it is more than 400.

Quote, originally posted by sp_golf »

Why do you want such a low CR?

The lower the CR, the more volume at TDC, so the more power in a FI engine.

Quote, originally posted by sp_golf »

7:1 will be a dog off boost and you'll need more boost to make the same power.

Yes and No. You're right that 7:1 cannot be as quite as good off boost, but I'll be the judge of dog or not. I think many others who have tried very low CR did not have optimal combustion chamber geometry at TDC. If by "more boost" you mean more psi, I think you're mistaken. By my math, a low CR engine *should* make more power for the same boost pressure, since the boosted charge can fill a larger combustion chamber (more air = more power).

Still looking for those elusive 7:1 pistons...

[turbodub]

Quote, originally posted by o2bad455 »

I don't think I've said how many hp I'm shooting for, but it is more than 400. The lower the CR, the more volume at TDC, so the more power in a FI engine. Yes and No. You're right that 7:1 cannot be as quite as good off boost, but I'll be the judge of dog or not. I think many others who have tried very low CR did not have optimal combustion chamber geometry at TDC. If by "more boost" you mean more psi, I think you're mistaken. By my math, a low CR engine *should* make more power for the same boost pressure, since the boosted charge can fill a larger combustion chamber (more air = more power). Still looking for those elusive 7:1 pistons...

do yourself a favor and stop searching for a ridiculous low compression piston and start searching for a good stand alone system. more compression=more power

[GLI_jetta]

Quote, originally posted by sp_golf »

That's pointless, you can make 400+whp on 9:1 and pump gas. Why do you want such a low CR? 7:1 will be a dog off boost and you'll need more boost to make the same power.

x2 most guys on the 1.8t side run the 9:1 c/r. Theres even guys running 10:1 on 3071/76 but are running w/m 24/7. when i bored and stroked my motor to a 2l i chose the 9:1 c/r. 7:1 is insane unless your running north of 50 psi. have fun driving it out of boost.

[weeblebiker]

I know what you are thinking about the 7:1 compression.
what people are not saying is there are other factors besides just dropping compression and upping the af mix to achieve the same final compression to get more power. yes it can be done that way but you will be using a ass load of gasoline to do it.

what people should have said is you can get as much or more torque/hp by increasing timing, controlling detonation and increasing final compression while not using as much gas as a '70 muscle car.

[thepaintcanman]

Quote, originally posted by Sparknock »

looks like a -10 AN hose fitting with push lock ends for the hoses.

yup, what he said

[sp_golf]

Quote, originally posted by o2bad455 »

I don't think I've said how many hp I'm shooting for, but it is more than 400. The lower the CR, the more volume at TDC, so the more power in a FI engine. Yes and No. You're right that 7:1 cannot be as quite as good off boost, but I'll be the judge of dog or not. I think many others who have tried very low CR did not have optimal combustion chamber geometry at TDC. If by "more boost" you mean more psi, I think you're mistaken. By my math, a low CR engine *should* make more power for the same boost pressure, since the boosted charge can fill a larger combustion chamber (more air = more power). Still looking for those elusive 7:1 pistons...

Higher compression will always make more power, it's been proven many times. If you wanna go a lot over 400whp run E85 or Race gas, W/M works too up to a certain point.

There was a guy on here from Hawaii that had a low compression 16v setup, I think his car was 7.5 or 7.7:1, car made 440whp IIRC, I think he stacked headgaskets to lower the CR with 8:1 pistons.

Quote, originally posted by turbodub »

do yourself a favor and stop searching for a ridiculous low compression piston and start searching for a good stand alone system. more compression=more power

x2

[Sparknock]

Quote, originally posted by sp_golf »

Higher compression will always make more power, it's been proven many times. If you wanna go a lot over 400whp run E85 or Race gas, W/M works too up to a certain point. There was a guy on here from Hawaii that had a low compression 16v setup, I think his car was 7.5 or 7.7:1, car made 440whp IIRC, I think he stacked headgaskets to lower the CR with 8:1 pistons. x2

ok ok we get it. your going to get your 7:1 comp pistons. with thats said do you have any pictures of a currant 16v turbo set up ?

[o2bad455]

Quote, originally posted by Sparknock »

ok ok we get it. your going to get your 7:1 comp pistons. with thats said do you have any pictures of a currant 16v turbo set up ?

Do you mean pictures of the engine bay or the pistons? Here's a pic of the bay, basically as it came back to me before I started surgery.

Modified by o2bad455 at 3:30 PM 1-3-2010

[o2bad455]

The current pistons are just clearanced stock ABA pistons -- nothing special yet. No pics of any 7:1 pistons, but I'll probably start with forged aftermarket 2L 16V pistons and have a 30cc dish machined into each. Then I'll either a) offset bush the 159mm ABA rods, b) deck the ABA block, c) go back to a 9A block with 144mm rods, or some combination, to get the squish back up and the quench nice and tight.

[weeblebiker]

Quote, originally posted by Amsterdam087 »

and i almost hate posting the bay, but here it is, before i make all of my improvments: Modified by Amsterdam087 at 1:00 PM 12-2-2009

your car has been one of my favorites. tasteful black on white,
kinda reminds me of the James Bond lotus esprit sub car

[Sparknock]

Quote, originally posted by o2bad455 »

Do you mean pictures of the engine bay or the pistons? Here's a pic of the bay, basically as it came back to me before I started surgery. Modified by o2bad455 at 3:30 PM 1-3-2010

thats fine this is what this thread was all about any way. i just figured it would be great to get back on topic

[Doogal]

16vT....One day....one day.

[BastardDuck]

Quote, originally posted by yellowjet »

92 b3 wagon 9a head (stock) aba bottom end (stock) arp head studs custom turbo manifold Rhb5 VF4 IHI turbo (making killer boost of 7psi) MS1 w/ msnsextra 36lb injectors top mount intercooler (draws air from back of headlight) 35 shot of nitrous for giggles. Modified by yellowjet at 1:48 AM 12-14-2009

More info on the intercooler setup please!!!

[wolfsberg321]

how well do those autotech sport cams work in a turbo application?

[wolfsberg321]

how well dop those autotech sport cams work in a turbo application?

[Greengt1]

excellent.. they are the biggest you should go without getting the overlapping out with internal cam gears..