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Thread: Switching to Bike Carbs. Heres a write up!

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  1. Member Miami Blue's Avatar
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    11-13-2009 10:55 PM #1
    Hello everyone!

    This is going to be my first write up. Please feel free to ask questions and make suggestions! By the end of this build i hope to have step by step instructions so that all you good folks out there can set up some bike carbs too!

    I recently traded my 77 rabbit for an 82 Caddy with a 2.0 swap. The CIS fuel system was never fully installed, and is currenty hooked up just so that it gets me from A to B. I have been researching on what route i want to go with the fuel system and have decided to go with some bike carbs! My reason for this choice is my extreamly limited budget (Currently going to tech school, typical poor student ), the ease of the install, and the effeciancy of bike carbs over Weber carbs.

    My plan is to gather and fabricate all of the needed parts and then spend my Winter break installing and tuning the carbs. I will be trying to contact "Bogg Brothers" to figure out what jet sizes i need and order a few smalll parts.

    Parts List Needed (please contribute if im missing parts):
    Bike Carbs
    Correct Jets
    Fuel Pressure Regulator
    Manifold
    Fuel Hose

    Tonight is day one of my gathering. I purchased a set of Yamaha YZFR1 Carbs off ebay. I cant wait for them to arrive so i can get them all cleaned up! Ill begin posting pics ASAP.

    Here is an artical and a couple vids to get you PUMPED!

    http://www.totalvauxhall.co.uk...7.pdf

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tb7ILh6ZxxA

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...lated


    Modified by Miami Blue at 10:35 PM 1-3-2010


  2. 11-14-2009 01:23 AM #2
    Wow please keep us updated as much as possible. I'm also a poor student who has been looking into starting a project using carbs. This seems like a much cheaper route than dual webers.

  3. Member Miami Blue's Avatar
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    11-14-2009 01:33 AM #3
    Yes wayy cheaper. Carbs are off a year 2000 bike and were $150.

    You in Marysville, nice. Home for me is La Conner, WA. I cant wait to go back!


    Modified by Miami Blue at 10:36 PM 11-13-2009


  4. 11-14-2009 01:54 AM #4
    Oh wow, you live waaay up north. But hey, that's cool. When do you come back? Does your project come with you?

  5. Member Miami Blue's Avatar
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    11-14-2009 03:02 AM #5
    Ill be coming back after i graduate Oct 22 of next year. And yes! The project will be coming back up with me!

  6. 11-14-2009 11:55 AM #6
    Well maybe by then we'll have to... you know.

    Is it me or from those videos it seems like bike carbs idle a little rough? Unless they are running agressive cams?


  7. Member Miami Blue's Avatar
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    11-14-2009 12:01 PM #7
    They may be running cams, i have some pretty agressive cams and they sound mean without the carbs.

    Mainly the noise is the carbs though, they open straight to the cylinder. No intake piping or filters muffeling the noise.


  8. 11-14-2009 12:16 PM #8
    Ah. I'm just very familiar with the sound of webers and bike carbs have a different sound which is interesting. Do you know if those manifolds have vacuum ports for the brake booster? If not how do you deal with that? I'm also curious about the dizzy vacuum advance and if you need it.

  9. Member FROZEN337's Avatar
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    11-14-2009 03:20 PM #9
    Quote, originally posted by Miami Blue »

    Parts List Needed (please contribute if im missing parts):
    Bike Carbs
    Correct Jets
    Fuel Pressure Regulator
    Manifold
    Fuel Hose

    I would look at the Holley FPR PN 12-804 ($30-ish everywhere I looked) and a FP gauge so you know what your pushing in to your carbs.

    Jets, I bought 4 sets, 165, 167.5, 170 and 172.5 I think?! They are a few bucks each and IMO worth spending a few bucks on insted of drilling.

    Wideband, your gonna need one. I bought the Inovate LC-1 with gauge. You can find them used on here from time to time.

    Silicone couplers to connect the carbs to your mani.

    TON of clamps! A lot of sizes!

    I'll think of more Im sure!

    Cater fuel pump, 4070. I tried 2 cheaper ones with no luck.




    Modified by FROZEN337 at 5:36 PM 11-14-2009

    Quote Originally Posted by PA-VDUB View Post
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  10. Member Miami Blue's Avatar
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    11-14-2009 08:14 PM #10
    Hey thanks frozen!

    Did you do this swap on a 9a engine? If so, what size injectors did you go with? I went in to the Yamaha shop to price how much it would be to get a whole bunch of different sizes, nice and cheap!

    I read up on what alot of other people did for fuel delivery and was probably going to use the CIS pump and an FPR with a return line to the tank to help keep the pressure safe.

    As far as a vacuum source for the brake booster, ill just T out of the manifold that me and my brother will be making. I would assume that you could a vacuum advance dizzy the same way too. For now im sticking to stock ignition though.

    Down side to this swap is that i wont be able to have AC . Here in Phoenix... its pretty nice to have. To make the carbs fit i will have to move the alternator to the AC compressor spot, an then chop off the old alternator mount.

    Some other people have issues with their radiator being in the way due to where the hoses go in to the radiator. I have a duel pancake fan set up already installed though so it looks like this wont be an issue. Specially with the AC cooler gone, i can move the coolant rad forward more.


    Modified by Miami Blue at 5:17 PM 11-14-2009


    Modified by Miami Blue at 9:31 PM 11-14-2009


  11. Member FROZEN337's Avatar
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    11-15-2009 09:10 AM #11
    Im running a OBDI ABA with the stock MKI ignition system. Prolly not the best set up, but it works for me.

    I used wraping paper roll to get my angles right! They are the same size as the 1.75" Autozone exhuast pipe I used for my mani.

    I would ditch the stock fuel pump and run a low pressure unit, FPR and gauge. I picked up a cheap FRAM filter for under the hood, because Im that cheap! Had a nice glass filter but the housing split when I put the fittings in . . .

    I dont have issues with the rad/carbs all fitting, its REALLY close with my filters on, but not an issue. Right now I have some mesh from Lowes on there because I killed two filters thanks to back fire in the carbs! ALT is close to, but they dont touch.

    All said and done, it is cheap, it is easy, BUT it will be a PITA getting it all TIG'd, fitted, running! Sound is awesome and it is so worth it!

    Quote Originally Posted by PA-VDUB View Post
    *no Logan is a form of no homo. Its when I wanna sound like a douche but say I'm just kidding at the same time
    Tell your mom I said hi.

  12. Member Miami Blue's Avatar
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    11-15-2009 11:27 AM #12
    Good call on the wraping paper roll, ill have to find some. How about your flange? Did you just cut down a stock intake?

    Another decision i have to make is do i want to go fancy and get AN fittings and hose or do i want to save money and go with rubber hose and cclamps. The saving money part sounds preferable to me!

    Its nice getting help from some one who has done this. Props man.


  13. Member FROZEN337's Avatar
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    11-15-2009 11:30 AM #13
    I used gasket outline to make the flange. Any decent metal shop can cut it out with water jet or plasma cutter, if you dont have you.

    I ran C clamps and rubber fuel line!

    Quote Originally Posted by PA-VDUB View Post
    *no Logan is a form of no homo. Its when I wanna sound like a douche but say I'm just kidding at the same time
    Tell your mom I said hi.

  14. Member Miami Blue's Avatar
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    11-15-2009 01:17 AM #14
    Does anybody have templates for manifolds they made?

  15. 11-14-2009 06:06 PM #15
    Isn't an FPR unnecessary if you go with the carter 4070?

  16. Member B4S's Avatar
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    11-15-2009 12:45 PM #16
    Quote, originally posted by Flyingsheep »
    Isn't an FPR unnecessary if you go with the carter 4070?

    Absolute myth. If you look up the specs of the carter, it's WAY more than most sidedraft style carbs need. If it's running without an FPR, then there is also something wrong with the setup that is limiting the fueling, like too-small needle valves, or restrictions in the lines.

  17. Member Miami Blue's Avatar
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    11-16-2009 12:54 AM #17
    Quote, originally posted by B4S »

    Absolute myth. If you look up the specs of the carter, it's WAY more than most sidedraft style carbs need. If it's running without an FPR, then there is also something wrong with the setup that is limiting the fueling, like too-small needle valves, or restrictions in the lines.

    Quotes from Summit regarding the Carter 4070 Pump:
    "They also have an internal pressure-regulating valve" and "A regulator is not required."

    The pump DOES have a regulator, but it says nothing about being adjustable.... A little bit of a misleading product description ...


    Modified by Miami Blue at 10:00 PM 11-15-2009


  18. Member Miami Blue's Avatar
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    11-16-2009 03:40 PM #18
    Before i go and build my manifold... Does anybody know about powerband tuning using the length of the runners?

  19. Member FROZEN337's Avatar
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    11-16-2009 06:20 PM #19
    Quote, originally posted by Miami Blue »
    Before i go and build my manifold... Does anybody know about powerband tuning using the length of the runners?

    I built mine to fit in the bay!

    Quote Originally Posted by PA-VDUB View Post
    *no Logan is a form of no homo. Its when I wanna sound like a douche but say I'm just kidding at the same time
    Tell your mom I said hi.

  20. 11-15-2009 05:11 PM #20
    I see. On a 16v can motorcycle carbs fit without relocating the alternator? Or is a serpentine setup absolutely necessary?

  21. Member Miami Blue's Avatar
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    11-15-2009 07:41 PM #21
    On my engine i will have to move the alternator down to where the AC comperssor is located. Which means no more AC for me . Im just using the existing bracket, not a serpentine set up.

    Today I picked up one of those cheap FRAM filters FROZEN was talking about . Ill eventually get a better one.


    Modified by Miami Blue at 4:43 PM 11-15-2009


  22. 11-15-2009 08:23 PM #22
    Oh, I had no idea you could do that. It also deletes P/S too though huh?

  23. Member Miami Blue's Avatar
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    11-15-2009 11:00 PM #23
    Yeah, it will require a few spacers on the alternator somewhere.

    No power steering in the Caddy, used the stock rack. I dont even have to worry about that. Im sure you could figure something out to keep your power steering.


  24. 11-18-2009 03:41 AM #24
    Thanks for posting progress. Where do you get the flange material? Couldn't get anything thinner?

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    11-18-2009 10:58 AM #25
    Went to (believe it or not) a little community college in NEPA. Had a full automotive machine shop, flowbench, fab shop, etc. And the instructors all worke din the industry building engines or doing chassis fab/custom machine work. Awesome program!

    Agreed on the material, 3/8" should'v ebeen plenty. I don't think you're going to find a shear that can handle 1/2". I have to admit, I'm not as big a fan of plasma as waterjet, if I had the choice. Plasma still leaves a pretty rough edge, especially on the thick stuff, and you really need to have a steady hand. Lots of grind time after plasma. If you can get access to an upright band saw you should be able to rough it in very close and then spend a little cleanup time on a grinder.

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    11-18-2009 04:51 PM #26
    I had to use a bandsaw to clean my flange up, or I would not have been able to get my spark plugs in! I say plasma only because you should be able to find one you can use before you find you find a water jet.

    Almost anyone can use a plasma cutter, ALMOST!

    Quote Originally Posted by PA-VDUB View Post
    *no Logan is a form of no homo. Its when I wanna sound like a douche but say I'm just kidding at the same time
    Tell your mom I said hi.

  27. Member Miami Blue's Avatar
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    11-18-2009 06:12 PM #27
    Quote, originally posted by Flyingsheep »
    Where do you get the flange material? Couldn't get anything thinner?

    Any metal supplier has the material. I could have went with thinner steel yes, i chose to go with 1/2 inch because thats about what the stock flange is. Also after the runners are welded on im going to have a machine shop mill down the back side so that its perfectly flat, so it will be a little thinner.

    Took the plate i bought yesterday back to the shop and they were happy to make the cuts for me. They used a large band saw for the longer cuts and the shear for the rest. The amount of force that that machine has is amazing! Thats hydraulics for ya!

    Im going to UTI right now, i wish it had some fab classes in the program. After i graduate i plan on going to community college and taking some engineering and fabrication classes, im more interested in that stuff.

    Gonna grind down the outside edges tonight and clean them up. Hopefully ill have it finished this weekend.


  28. Member Miami Blue's Avatar
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    11-19-2009 07:14 PM #28
    Todays update: Steel is lame, going to pick up some 3/8 aluminium tomorrow.

  29. Member FROZEN337's Avatar
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    11-19-2009 08:50 PM #29
    Hope you can TIG . . . I went with steel and TIG welded to be safe.
    Quote Originally Posted by PA-VDUB View Post
    *no Logan is a form of no homo. Its when I wanna sound like a douche but say I'm just kidding at the same time
    Tell your mom I said hi.

  30. Member Miami Blue's Avatar
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    11-19-2009 09:37 PM #30
    My brother is a certified TIG welder. I asked him how much money he would want to do it, he said to buy him some In and Out Burger .

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    12-26-2011 02:37 AM #31
    What is everybody running for ignition modules?

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    12-26-2011 10:53 AM #32
    Quote Originally Posted by Ajaxpowder View Post
    What is everybody running for ignition modules?
    8V MK2 GTI knock sensor setup.
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    12-27-2011 04:45 PM #33
    Hey whats everybody with aba set ups running for their jet size?
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    Quote Originally Posted by rysskii3 View Post
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