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    Thread: Switching to Bike Carbs. Heres a write up!

    1. Member FROZEN337's Avatar
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      11-16-2009 09:32 PM #26
      When I built my mani, I made it short enough to mount the carbs and filters, it is tight in there, I just wanted them to fit. If I ever go to a smaller rad, I will play with another mani and stacks.
      Quote Originally Posted by PA-VDUB View Post
      *no Logan is a form of no homo. Its when I wanna sound like a douche but say I'm just kidding at the same time
      Tell your mom I said hi. instagram @The_Fat_Stig

    2. Member Miami Blue's Avatar
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      11-16-2009 09:52 PM #27
      Ah i see. I was out looking in the engine bay and was thinking how tight it will be in there and that ill wait do do any extra mods till later on.

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      11-17-2009 04:39 PM #28
      I'd like to see some hard data on the use of velocity stacks to tune the runner length. My understanding on runner length is back of the throttle plate to the back of the intake valve, as its timing the pulses between the closed valve and the throttle plate that "tunes" it to a certain rpm range. Longer runner length tunes it to lower rpm as there's more time between valve openings. Short runners, higher rpm, less time. That's the basics of it. You need a lot of VE info to really calculate out runner length to tune it properly, though. I'm not saying you can't tune it with velocity stacks, I've just not seen it and it goes against what I was taught. Not saying this makes me an expert, by any means, but just to quantify a bit, I do hold an Associates Degree in Motorsports Technology.

    4. Member Miami Blue's Avatar
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      11-17-2009 09:02 PM #29
      All input is welcome man! If i could find a dyno to use id experiment with the velocity stacks. Like i said... maybe in the future. Where did you go to school to get your degree?
      As far as updates on my little project here go... I picked up flange materials today and used a gasket to draw up what i want the flange to look like. Now i need to find someone to cut it, nothing i have can handle 1/2 inch.
      Tonight im gonna order some goodies from Summit... Yippee!
      Flange stuff:

    5. Member FROZEN337's Avatar
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      11-17-2009 09:23 PM #30
      Quote, originally posted by YJSAABMAN »
      Not saying this makes me an expert, by any means, but just to quantify a bit, I do hold an Associates Degree in Motorsports Technology.

      Im a truck driver in the Army, you got me beat!
      If you can find someone with a plasma cutter, it will be easy and clean.
      Quote Originally Posted by PA-VDUB View Post
      *no Logan is a form of no homo. Its when I wanna sound like a douche but say I'm just kidding at the same time
      Tell your mom I said hi. instagram @The_Fat_Stig

    6. Member Miami Blue's Avatar
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      11-17-2009 09:39 PM #31
      I asked the metal shop if they could plasma cut it but they said it was too thick. Im going to go back tomorrow and see if they can use the shear cutter and get the straight lines pretty close. I dont mind doing some grinding and drilling for the rest of it, we got the right tools for that at the race car shop [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    7. 11-18-2009 03:41 AM #32
      Thanks for posting progress. Where do you get the flange material? Couldn't get anything thinner?

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      11-18-2009 10:58 AM #33
      Went to (believe it or not) a little community college in NEPA. Had a full automotive machine shop, flowbench, fab shop, etc. And the instructors all worke din the industry building engines or doing chassis fab/custom machine work. Awesome program!
      Agreed on the material, 3/8" should'v ebeen plenty. I don't think you're going to find a shear that can handle 1/2". I have to admit, I'm not as big a fan of plasma as waterjet, if I had the choice. Plasma still leaves a pretty rough edge, especially on the thick stuff, and you really need to have a steady hand. Lots of grind time after plasma. If you can get access to an upright band saw you should be able to rough it in very close and then spend a little cleanup time on a grinder.

    9. Member FROZEN337's Avatar
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      11-18-2009 04:51 PM #34
      I had to use a bandsaw to clean my flange up, or I would not have been able to get my spark plugs in! I say plasma only because you should be able to find one you can use before you find you find a water jet.
      Almost anyone can use a plasma cutter, ALMOST!
      Quote Originally Posted by PA-VDUB View Post
      *no Logan is a form of no homo. Its when I wanna sound like a douche but say I'm just kidding at the same time
      Tell your mom I said hi. instagram @The_Fat_Stig

    10. Member Miami Blue's Avatar
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      11-18-2009 06:12 PM #35
      Quote, originally posted by Flyingsheep »
      Where do you get the flange material? Couldn't get anything thinner?

      Any metal supplier has the material. I could have went with thinner steel yes, i chose to go with 1/2 inch because thats about what the stock flange is. Also after the runners are welded on im going to have a machine shop mill down the back side so that its perfectly flat, so it will be a little thinner.
      Took the plate i bought yesterday back to the shop and they were happy to make the cuts for me. They used a large band saw for the longer cuts and the shear for the rest. The amount of force that that machine has is amazing! Thats hydraulics for ya!
      Im going to UTI right now, i wish it had some fab classes in the program. After i graduate i plan on going to community college and taking some engineering and fabrication classes, im more interested in that stuff.
      Gonna grind down the outside edges tonight and clean them up. Hopefully ill have it finished this weekend.

    11. Member Miami Blue's Avatar
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      11-19-2009 07:14 PM #36
      Todays update: Steel is lame, going to pick up some 3/8 aluminium tomorrow.

    12. Member FROZEN337's Avatar
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      11-19-2009 08:50 PM #37
      Hope you can TIG . . . I went with steel and TIG welded to be safe.
      Quote Originally Posted by PA-VDUB View Post
      *no Logan is a form of no homo. Its when I wanna sound like a douche but say I'm just kidding at the same time
      Tell your mom I said hi. instagram @The_Fat_Stig

    13. Member Miami Blue's Avatar
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      11-19-2009 09:37 PM #38
      My brother is a certified TIG welder. I asked him how much money he would want to do it, he said to buy him some In and Out Burger .

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      11-20-2009 10:18 AM #39
      Good choice!

    15. Member Miami Blue's Avatar
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      1981 VW Rabbit. 2.0 16V Currently on R1 carbs
      11-21-2009 12:27 AM #40
      Sent a couple messages out on youtube to guys who had posted their R1 swaps last night. I asked them about what jet sizes they ended up going with, i must say, im very pleased! Both of the guys used pretty much the same size jets on their 16v 2.0 engines!
      Messages:
      "my carbs are on a 1.8 as a start ive used 1.6 but told by the engine tuner i could easily go to 1.65 , my mate who,s got a 2.0 but has a few more mods and mega jolt ingnition is on 1.83 i think"
      "hi they drilled them to 1.8 mm , but it was under fueling at high revs , i drilled them out to 2mm and the carbs fuel well up to 7,500 rpm. if you need any other info just contact me , regards jayson"
      So it looks like 1.8mm will be the jet to start with!
      Im thinking of putting a Saab 900 non turbo dizzy on that has vacuum advance. Does anyone have any info on how well these work on a 9a engine? Im sure ii works way better than my CIS-Motronic dizzy that isnt plugged in to anything...

      Modified by Miami Blue at 9:29 PM 11-20-2009


      Modified by Miami Blue at 11:11 PM 11-21-2009

    16. Member Miami Blue's Avatar
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      11-27-2009 08:59 PM #41
      My carbs FINALLY came in today!! Yeeeha! I cleaned the outside up real good first thing, there was some grime on em. Tonight ill open them up and clean them some more. I need to find a manual on these things so i can figure out where all the fittings go. Does anyone knoe offhand what goes where?




      And my parts that i have gathered so far: My finished flange, choke cable, fuel filter, pressure gauge, and fpr. All i should need now is fuel hose, runners, and silicone hose for attaching carbs to manifold.

      For some reasson my camera likes to switch between black and white, and color .... Oh well!


      Modified by Miami Blue at 6:17 PM 11-27-2009

    17. Member rocco858488's Avatar
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      11-28-2009 09:50 PM #42
      Nice write up so far, watching with interest!!!

    18. Member FROZEN337's Avatar
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      12-01-2009 09:50 PM #43

      I have to look at my car to see what the one thing is, prolly cap it!
      The vent hose, pull the lines off at the carb, turn them to the sky, they are vent ONLY, DO NOT TRY TO PUT FUEL IN THE CARBS USING THEM! I found that out the hard way!

      On your pressure gauge, ditch the fitting and go right off the FPR.
      Quote Originally Posted by PA-VDUB View Post
      *no Logan is a form of no homo. Its when I wanna sound like a douche but say I'm just kidding at the same time
      Tell your mom I said hi. instagram @The_Fat_Stig

    19. Member Miami Blue's Avatar
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      12-02-2009 01:15 AM #44
      Ha Ha thanks frozen, as always your help is much appreciated! The two things on the top are vents also i figured out. Lots of vents!
      I took the AC out of the Caddy the other day, and moved the alternator down to the lower position. It cleared up alot more room than i expected! Next i need to re-route the coolant hose.
      Alternator relocation. (Please excuse any ghetto tech you see in the engine compartment, it was not my work. These carbs are my first step to getting everything right and clean in there.)
      Before:

      After, without the AC that side already looks WAY better :


    20. 12-02-2009 08:58 PM #45
      Thank you for continually updating. It is much appreciated. What exactly are you doing with those vents?

    21. Member Miami Blue's Avatar
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      12-02-2009 11:51 PM #46
      The two vents on the top had small air filters on them, so ill replace the broken filter. Im assuming the filters are there for a reason.
      The vents on either side ill cap off for now since they are connected. Im going to talk to a Yamaha tech and see if thats vacuum that i can use for a vacuum advance dizzy.
      And last of all, the vents with the tubes that connect at the bottom, im going to remove the tubes and point the two T fittings downwards to help keep any dirt or water that may end up there out.

    22. Member 86Franklin's Avatar
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      12-03-2009 12:31 AM #47
      usually the vents reroute to the air box on bikes. id just tap one of the runners for the vacuum dizzy and for your brake booster. the vacuum port on the carbs may not be strong enough to run both dizzy and brake booster unless you arent going to use vacuum assisted brakes...

    23. Member Miami Blue's Avatar
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      12-03-2009 08:02 AM #48
      For the brakes im planning on doing as you said and tapping the runners. Im thinkin that the vacuum on the carbs should do fine for just the dizzy.

    24. Member 86Franklin's Avatar
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      12-03-2009 11:15 AM #49
      sounds good ha. im in the middle of the exact same thing you're doing except im swapping into a cabriolet at the same time.

    25. Member wut_cel's Avatar
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      12-06-2009 03:14 PM #50
      Doing this too, are you using the CIS system or a stand alone like megasquirt?

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