Hope you can TIG . . . I went with steel and TIG welded to be safe.
Sent a couple messages out on youtube to guys who had posted their R1 swaps last night. I asked them about what jet sizes they ended up going with, i must say, im very pleased! Both of the guys used pretty much the same size jets on their 16v 2.0 engines!
"my carbs are on a 1.8 as a start ive used 1.6 but told by the engine tuner i could easily go to 1.65 , my mate who,s got a 2.0 but has a few more mods and mega jolt ingnition is on 1.83 i think"
"hi they drilled them to 1.8 mm , but it was under fueling at high revs , i drilled them out to 2mm and the carbs fuel well up to 7,500 rpm. if you need any other info just contact me , regards jayson"
So it looks like 1.8mm will be the jet to start with!
Im thinking of putting a Saab 900 non turbo dizzy on that has vacuum advance. Does anyone have any info on how well these work on a 9a engine? Im sure ii works way better than my CIS-Motronic dizzy that isnt plugged in to anything...
Modified by Miami Blue at 9:29 PM 11-20-2009
Modified by Miami Blue at 11:11 PM 11-21-2009
My carbs FINALLY came in today!! Yeeeha! I cleaned the outside up real good first thing, there was some grime on em. Tonight ill open them up and clean them some more. I need to find a manual on these things so i can figure out where all the fittings go. Does anyone knoe offhand what goes where?
And my parts that i have gathered so far: My finished flange, choke cable, fuel filter, pressure gauge, and fpr. All i should need now is fuel hose, runners, and silicone hose for attaching carbs to manifold.
For some reasson my camera likes to switch between black and white, and color .... Oh well!
Modified by Miami Blue at 6:17 PM 11-27-2009
I have to look at my car to see what the one thing is, prolly cap it!
The vent hose, pull the lines off at the carb, turn them to the sky, they are vent ONLY, DO NOT TRY TO PUT FUEL IN THE CARBS USING THEM! I found that out the hard way!
On your pressure gauge, ditch the fitting and go right off the FPR.
Ha Ha thanks frozen, as always your help is much appreciated! The two things on the top are vents also i figured out. Lots of vents!
I took the AC out of the Caddy the other day, and moved the alternator down to the lower position. It cleared up alot more room than i expected! Next i need to re-route the coolant hose.
Alternator relocation. (Please excuse any ghetto tech you see in the engine compartment, it was not my work. These carbs are my first step to getting everything right and clean in there.)
After, without the AC that side already looks WAY better :
The two vents on the top had small air filters on them, so ill replace the broken filter. Im assuming the filters are there for a reason.
The vents on either side ill cap off for now since they are connected. Im going to talk to a Yamaha tech and see if thats vacuum that i can use for a vacuum advance dizzy.
And last of all, the vents with the tubes that connect at the bottom, im going to remove the tubes and point the two T fittings downwards to help keep any dirt or water that may end up there out.
usually the vents reroute to the air box on bikes. id just tap one of the runners for the vacuum dizzy and for your brake booster. the vacuum port on the carbs may not be strong enough to run both dizzy and brake booster unless you arent going to use vacuum assisted brakes...
The only write up on another web site i have found was by the Bogg Brothers of Europe. It is more of a generic write up, not specific to any one engine:
There are a few guys on the Vortex doing, or attempting to do this. The guy who has been most helpful is my main man FROZEN (Thanks dude). He has posted on my thread as well as other bike carb threads.
Vortex R1 threads:
Not R1 but good info:
There are more threads, but those are some of the good ones.
And one more... This one is great for rebuilding the carbs:
Update for the day
This weekend i made up a coolant hose that will give me much more clearance, im pretty happy with it. It will run on the outside of the alternator and then under the tensioning adjustment bracket.
My runner material showed up last night, i got right to work on shaping them. Shaping took some patience, first i used a vice to oval them out and then a cut off saw to cut the angles.... I dropped the flange and runners off to my brother this afternoon, i hope he doesnt put the welding off. Ill have to keep on him The runners will be cut down to about where the cardboard is after the welding is complete.
My parents supprised me for christmas so i will be flying back to my beautiful home in Northwest Washington Im going to have to hold off on the installation till New Years weekend.
Throttle Cable time!
I had been looking at different ways to do the throttle cable for a while and this is what i came up with. It is by far the cheapest way to do it. The cable its self i got at the local bike shop for dirt cheap, you will need the fitting on the end for the throttle lever on the carbs, it just so happens that bicycle brake cables work perfectly. For holding the cable on the carbs i ordered the small bicycle brake adjuster from here:
Brake cable with round... thing.
I cut down the small mount that screws on to the adjuster and put it on first. Then i used the small nut to lock it in place. After the photo was taken i bent the bracket on the carbs over the adjuster a little, that thing isnt going anywhere!
For the cable to be finished, all i have to do now is figure out how to get a hook on the pedal side so that it will go right in to where the OEM cable goes.
Got the manifold back, it looks great! It bowed a little from the welding so i bent it back in a vice and then used a belt sander to get it perfect.
I need to pick up some sort of hose to join the mani to the carbs. Dont know if i want to use rubber or step it up and pay extra for silicone hose.
Question for FROZEN: Where did you get the foam air filters for these things? I cant find them anywhere!
Doing a CIS to carb conversion also. Going to be running a single Weber/Magnum Flow manifold set up for daily driving and a quad-Mikuni/custom manifold set up for "showin and going." I'll be using a Mr. Gasket in-line pump, Quick Fuel FPR and Spectre glass filter and FP gauge. Money is an issue, so I did the best I could with what I had to spend. I'm wondering if anyone can help me on running a return line to the tank. The FPR has 2 outs, can I use 1 to run a return?
e-mail:email@example.com for quicker response.
I found my filters on eBay, and blew the metal ends off two of them! Backfire in the carbs. They are UNI filters, I cant think of the PN, but the fit 50mm and are the shortest ones they make.
Right now I'm using window screen for filters!
Your cable adjuster might not have enough adjustment in it. I went to a local Yamaha dealer and looked through some "scrap" cables they had and found one about 2-3 times the lengh of yours. I used the stock cable from my JETTA (1983 vintage!) and JB welded cable ends from AutoZone on the end. You will need to cut A LOT of the cable off to get it to size. I kept the stock to retain the "J" on the end so it woont bind and looks factory in the firewall, because it is! Im going to go out and try to get some pics and PN's for you too!
Something's been bugging me, and I just put my finger on it ...
Are you planning to mount these carbs horizontally, or vertically (in the same orientation as the photos a few posts up?
Those carbs are designed to be downdraft carbs, as are most late model Yamaha sport bike carbs.
I do not know what will happen if you try to mount them in side-draft orientation. You might want to pull one of those float bowls off (easy, 4 screws) and see what's going on in there. It could possibly still work, but you need to make sure the jets will still be submerged, the vent is NOT submerged, and that the floats will work correctly in that orientation.
Modified by GoFaster at 5:34 PM 12-27-2009
im pretty sure those are side draft carbs just with the bowls titled because of the orientation and clearance of the motor in the yamaha bike. in fact im pretty positive most bike carbs are side draft, the only ones that may not be side draft are from boxer engine style bikes such as old gold wings or bmw bike.