This is Great post. Do you mind putting up a list of what was required for this build. Maybe some prices too. Wanting to do one of the three, but this seems the best.
#106
Ha Ha maybe i should reconsider the cheaper pump....Page 4 SIKKKK
#107
This is Great post. Do you mind putting up a list of what was required for this build. Maybe some prices too. Wanting to do one of the three, but this seems the best.
#108
Carbs: $130 (You can find them cheaper)
Pump: $70
FPR: $40
Manifold: $20 and an In-and-Out Burger
Silicone couplers: $10
Fuel Hose: $15
Fuel Gauge: $25
NPT Fittings: $15
Air Filters: $70
Air Filter Oil: $10
Vacuum Hose: $10
Fuel Filter: $5
Pipe Clamps: $15Prices arent exact, but close. Total comes out to around $435. Not bad considering its a whole fuel system. Starts right up every time!
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#109
What year R1 did the carbs come from... 98-01?
Im thinking of doing this in the future and im going to starts collecting parts... btw thanks for the thread really helps...
#110
Yep, 98-01.Searcing for good info can be difficult, so i tried to get it all in one place
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#111
Yeah, I'm not suprised FROZEN had issues with a Mr. Gasket pump, they're pretty crappy. Heard of a lot of people having problems with them on various vehicles.I'm still planning on giving the CIS pump and bypass regulator a shot. Really just don't want to have to re-do the fuel lines at this point!
Help save the Boobies!! Dub 'N Rub VW/Audi Show & Shine to benefit breast cancer research.
#112
Mr. Gasket pump was a try at keeping things under $300!! FAIL!Anyone looking for carbs, I have 2 sets (not selling the other!) both off ebay for under $50 each shipped. When you do get the carbs, or ask before you buy, they came with adjustable needles, will make tuning easy, one set I bought did not have the stock needles in them. I have not priced new/adjustable set yet either.
You dont have to re-do your fuel lines at all to make it work, I'm running off the "end" of the hard line on the drivers side. I am going to re-do it after its running right and the bay is finished, just not that big a deal right now.
#113
for the fuel line i cut the soft line (for the return line) off the barb fitting where it bolts to the hard line. then put the barb fitting on the feed line and ran soft to my carbs. now i just need to cap the return line so it doesnt leak fumes. after i get that all i need is the aluminum water neck i bought to arrive so i can have it cut and welded differently to clear my carbs. also for my uncle to come and make me a throttle cable.
#114
Looks like its time for a throttle cable post, ill go take some pics.
#115
Im ready to buy a set off you Frozen, let me know how we can do that...thanks
#116
Throttle cable time! To be able to make a proper throttle cable you need only two things: A stock cable, and some cable stoppers. You need the specific kind i posted a picture of on here. I suggest buying a throttle cable to a diesel rabbit since they are long enough to easily reach the front of the engine.
First thing youll have to do is cut the cable stop off the throttle or diesel pump (depending on what cable you get) side of the cable. Cut it as close as you can.
Then pull the cable out of the guide so you can trim the guide. Put the guide in the firewall and cut it so that it fits in to where the throttle cable holder is on the carbs.
Once the cutting is complete you can insert the cable back in to the guide on the pedal side of the firewall. Put the hook on the cable in to the busing on the pedal lever.
Now wrap the cable around the throttle lever on the carbs and then put one of the cable stops on there. The cable stop may be a little big for the spot on the throttle lever, all you have to do is file the stop down a little evenly on all sides. Once the cable stop is where you want it, leave it attached to the cable and then take it off the carbs. Tighten the screw down as much as you can and then cut the screw flush with the brass part of the stop. The reason for this is that the screw will hit the carbs when the throttle is part of the way open.
Finally you can put the cable back on to the carbs! There ya go!
Highly technical and semi pointless conseptual drawing:
Modified by Miami Blue at 6:27 PM 1-19-2010
#117
where did you get those? i've been looking for something similar but having a hard time. i was going to use a solder on end but if i can find those id go that route.
#118
I ordered them off here: http://www.oreillyauto.com/sit...C0142
#119
Quote, originally posted by GoFaster » Something's been bugging me, and I just put my finger on it ... Are you planning to mount these carbs horizontally, or vertically (in the same orientation as the photos a few posts up?
Those carbs are designed to be downdraft carbs, as are most late model Yamaha sport bike carbs.
I do not know what will happen if you try to mount them in side-draft orientation. You might want to pull one of those float bowls off (easy, 4 screws) and see what's going on in there. It could possibly still work, but you need to make sure the jets will still be submerged, the vent is NOT submerged, and that the floats will work correctly in that orientation.
Modified by GoFaster at 5:34 PM 12-27-2009Hey... what ever happened to this guy?...
#120
When I did my cable, I used a TON of JB Weld! Only because when I floored it, the cable pulled out EVERYTIMEI put JB Weld in the cable end, from both sides, before putting the set screw in. Let it set for a few days (better safe then buying another cable!) and ground off the head of the set screw and hand sanded the brass till it rolled smooth in the wheel.
#121
I wonder if solder would also do the trick.... Ill try it out when i go to do my permanant throttle cable.
#122
I read up on soldering a cable end, if you google "homemade/custom cables" there are a few good sites. However, the best way, from what I found, was to use a cool guy solder pot thingy and dip it in. I looked for a place around me that had one, S.O.L.There is NOTHING where I live . . . So I did the cable end and JB Weld and it is wicked strong! If there is a GOOD bike shop around, they should have the stuff to custom make a cable from scratch.
#123
Does anyone have any carbs for sale? or were to find them for not too too expensive, from what im seeing, their around the 220cnd mark for me... im looking to spend 150ish maxthanks
#124
ebay or try and find a bike yard some where and pull some off of a 90s bike
#125
Youve had good luck with the JB weld so ill give that a shot when its time!FROZEN has some carbs for sell...
#126
last night i ordered my choke cable from summit around 7:30 and this morning when i woke up it was outside my door. and i went to a o'reilly autoparts store near by and picked up some of those cable ends so i could install it. first time i put the end on i stuck the cable end through both holes on the sleeve and tighted the screw down. when i went to give it a shot it pulled through. so when i went to attach it again i only put it through the first hole and once tightened down i gave it a pretty good tug and it didnt come out.
#127
Yeah Summit as the best about shipping, they always get it to me fast too.Great find on the cable stops man, ill try it out my self.
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#128
I PMed Frozen and no reply...Im interested in a set... I can mod/clean them my self...
thanks
#129
I didnt get a PM from you? I do have a second set of R1 carbs, but Im not selling them. Sorry. I used a stock MKI diesel choke cable on my car, once I mount it under the dash, it will be perfect!
#130
got my throttle cable done today. it rubs a little because i couldnt get the cable end to rotate so that the cable was pointing upwards. but it works.![]()
#131
im running itbs but i was looking on the gap and saw the cable for autos has a barrel adjuster on the end has anyone looked into this one?
I thought the rado was the funnest thing in the world........then I found the ak47
#133
I thought the rado was the funnest thing in the world........then I found the ak47
#134
Franklin, that's a kick-a$$ alt arm you have there!![]()
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I'll have to see if I still have it,, or not. My Cabby was an auto car, and I think I might still have the throittle cable around. If I do I'll try to take some closeups of the trans end for you guys. My carb setup has a cable system already with it, so it's getting it attached to the pedal once everything is mounted up. Need to make a flange and start on my manifold!
Help save the Boobies!! Dub 'N Rub VW/Audi Show & Shine to benefit breast cancer research.
#135
thanks it was a surprise from the friend who made my intake mani.and i finally got everything to start my car but wont be able to get it running till next week. but still im excited.
#137
Filled up my gas tank today, i must say im quite pleased with my MPG's. I have not tuned the carbs any more since i put them on so right now i have a high idle, and its probably not running exactly right while driving. Also i havent been able to keep my foot off the gas pedal lately.... Even with that extra fuel being consumed im getting 24 MPG's!Im thinking that when i tune it and drive it economically i can add a few more miles
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#138
Quote, originally posted by Miami Blue » Filled up my gas tank today, i must say im quite pleased with my MPG's. I have not tuned the carbs any more since i put them on so right now i have a high idle, and its probably not running exactly right while driving. Also i havent been able to keep my foot off the gas pedal lately.... Even with that extra fuel being consumed im getting 24 MPG's! Im thinking that when i tune it and drive it economically i can add a few more miles
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Help save the Boobies!! Dub 'N Rub VW/Audi Show & Shine to benefit breast cancer research.
#140
Im using stock ignition, it works. Im sure it would run much better if i had vaccuum advance. After i get a fuel pump im going to do ignition. I may look in to megajolt..