Switching to Bike Carbs. Heres a write up!

[86Franklin]

If you're talking about the ends. I highly doubt it unless the cable is to short.

[yeayeayea]

that looks good, but wouldnt it come out under heavy use?

I cant guarantee anything. But it is crimped and soldered on, which is more than the stock cable is (just crimped as far as i know) so far so good!

[yorgerg]

ok so can anyone show me where youd pull ported vacuum and the proof it makes a difference running it or not?

[rysskii3]

I cant guarantee anything. But it is crimped and soldered on, which is more than the stock cable is (just crimped as far as i know) so far so good!

cool. how did you mount it on the carbs? after seeing your pictures, i thought of getting an older diesel vw throttle cable (heard it was longer) cutting off the end and attaching the hook for the pedal like on the stock cable so its the right length.

[yeayeayea]

cool. how did you mount it on the carbs? after seeing your pictures, i thought of getting an older diesel vw throttle cable (heard it was longer) cutting off the end and attaching the hook for the pedal like on the stock cable so its the right length.

I made a bracket to hold the stock cable holder, and bolted it to the backside of the head. just have to make sure you make it tall enough so the cable doesnt cut into the valve cover

[rysskii3]

I made a bracket to hold the stock cable holder, and bolted it to the backside of the head. just have to make sure you make it tall enough so the cable doesnt cut into the valve cover

cant really see, would you mind taking a few pics of the bracket and how you have it attached to the carbs.
thanx.

[rysskii3]

2l 16v CE2 wiring
Need help with getting the tach and fuel pump to work.
i hooked up the tach adapter 8910 to white from ignition box, the same white wire that goes to yellow on start/retard. the red from tach adapter is hooked up to the red on Ignition/start retard/ pin 4 on ICM. the white wire from the adapter should also be connected to the tach directly? if so where? i have all the stock wiring removed, even the stock red/black wire that sat on negative ignition coil (tach wire). by looking at the stock wiring diagrams, the red/black wire goes from the negative ignition wire, to 6 pin gray plug at location number 2, the wire that comes out is green, and that goes to fuse box location f/9.



I only pulled the wires out of those 3 connectors, they are in order F, G1,G2.

[yeayeayea]

cant really see, would you mind taking a few pics of the bracket and how you have it attached to the carbs.
thanx.

I sure can, once i shake this hangover

[rysskii3]

I sure can, once i shake this hangover

take a few shots and it will help.

[YJSAABMAN]

Everything is o-ringed I don't know why it wouldn't seal.

That's what I was thinking. I plan on completely rebuilding these before they get fired up on this engine, but just wanted to check with you guys to see what's up.

[Miami Blue]

Have not been on here for about 14 months and cant believe how well this thread is doing
Looking good everyone!

[oldschool eighty8]

My set up is pretty close to firing up for the first time so I figured I'd share.
1.8 16v with 82mm 11:5:1 je pistons
Redecked head and block
Mildly ported head with autotech cams and adjustable gear
3 angle valve job
Spec stg1 clutch kit
Raceland header and tt 2.25 catback
Running r1 carbs and a ms ecu for spark.

Few loose ends to tie up but it's real close!

[GLIguy85]

[rysskii3]

My set up is pretty close to firing up for the first time so I figured I'd share.
1.8 16v with 82mm 11:5:1 je pistons
Redecked head and block
Mildly ported head with autotech cams and adjustable gear
3 angle valve job
Spec stg1 clutch kit
Raceland header and tt 2.25 catback
Running r1 carbs and a ms ecu for spark.

Few loose ends to tie up but it's real close!

nice, but why did you mount the carter pump on the firewall? it should be mounted away from the heat. a better place would be on the fender where the stock intake box was.

[oldschool eighty8]

The header is getting wrapped so I'm not concerned about heat. I had it on the inner fender and I didn't like it. I have the fpr mounted on that side also and it just looked akward to me having all that mounted to one side an the drivers side being bare. I'm also not running the transfer pump in the tank so I think having it mounted a little lower will be less strenuos on it.

[rysskii3]

The header is getting wrapped so I'm not concerned about heat. I had it on the inner fender and I didn't like it. I have the fpr mounted on that side also and it just looked akward to me having all that mounted to one side an the drivers side being bare. I'm also not running the transfer pump in the tank so I think having it mounted a little lower will be less strenuos on it.

why dont you just mount it in the stock location of the main pump?

[oldschool eighty8]

why dont you just mount it in the stock location of the main pump?

If it becomes a problem I will, but I've seen it mounted there by a few people with no issues.

[rysskii3]

If it becomes a problem I will, but I've seen it mounted there by a few people with no issues.

got ya. well if you do want to move it, this is what i did:

[oldschool eighty8]

Looks good, thanks

[rysskii3]

Looks good, thanks

[rysskii3]

so, i got the rpm gauge to work, and got the choke cable on. last thing is the throttle cable. i need some ideas with this. by the way, where can i get new filters that are already on the carbs? Or is it better to get something else?

[oldschool eighty8]

so, i got the rpm gauge to work, and got the choke cable on. last thing is the throttle cable. i need some ideas with this. by the way, where can i get new filters that are already on the carbs? Or is it better to get something else?

looks good

question though, i ran into a problem with my alternator. The motor I have is a factory no ac no power steering setup. So all I have is a small bracket that holds the alt,and it mounts up at the top edge of the block*( right in the way of the carbs) . What are you using for a bracket?

[rysskii3]

looks good

question though, i ran into a problem with my alternator. The motor I have is a factory no ac no power steering setup. So all I have is a small bracket that holds the alt,and it mounts up at the top edge of the block*( right in the way of the carbs) . What are you using for a bracket?

I used whatever bracket that came with the car, just got a longer upper arm and a smaller belt to move the alternator down a little.

[pnavarro]

I'd like a little advice... if you please.

A friend has this: Mikuni BST38SS carbs, like the RS40? From a Suzuki GSX-R 750 from 1990. I read that those carbs have a "pump" or something... Being totally different from the BDSR off a Yamaha R1... how would you go about drilling the main jet? Would it be roughly the same as for the R1? 1.6mm and start from there? He has a 2L ABA engine. How many turns for the Pilot Fuel screw?

Sorry for so many questions


Those are the ones.

Any help would be very appreciated.

[yeayeayea]

cant really see, would you mind taking a few pics of the bracket and how you have it attached to the carbs.
thanx.

[rysskii3]

^
Thank you!

i decided to take my car to a dyno shop that specializes in carb tuning. i am sure i can benefit from larger jets, where are you guys getting those from and what size?

[yeayeayea]

What carbs are you running? R1's im guessing? Engine size/#of valves/mods?

[rysskii3]

What carbs are you running? R1's im guessing? Engine size/#of valves/mods?

r1 on 2l 16v with a set of euro cams, mild p&p, rebuilt head (Valve job, seals, surfaced, the works), 4 to 1 race header and exhaust, clutch, flywheel, and a few other things here and there. i also like to run 100 oct fuel in it at the track and shift at around 7300k

[yeayeayea]

Well I havea 1.8 16v with autotech cams, decked head, 3 angle valve job, race header, no cat, full exhaust, and I run 1.73mm mains, everything else left as honda set it. That is on cbr900rr carbs, which are 38mm.
Perhaps that would be a good starting point for you, assuming cbr jet sizes cross reference with R1 sizes

[rysskii3]

Well I havea 1.8 16v with autotech cams, decked head, 3 angle valve job, race header, no cat, full exhaust, and I run 1.73mm mains, everything else left as honda set it. That is on cbr900rr carbs, which are 38mm.
Perhaps that would be a good starting point for you, assuming cbr jet sizes cross reference with R1 sizes

the r1 are 40mm, right? where to get the jets from? i see that jegs and all sell jets, but can i use those on the bike carbs? im taking the car to a dyno shop to tune and sync the carbs, kinda expensive but it will be worth it.

[yeayeayea]

I just drilled mine, I have a drill index that increases bit size in a lot smaller increments than a typical bit set, so it had odd sizes like the 1.73mm one i used

[rysskii3]

I just drilled mine, I have a drill index that increases bit size in a lot smaller increments than a typical bit set, so it had odd sizes like the 1.73mm one i used

got ya. i dont want to drill it. i rather get new jets. i heard some people are getting good results from 1.8 and 2.0mm

[ncbrock]

expecting to find bike carb jets at jegs? try motorcyclesuperstore.com thats where I buy all my motorcycle parts from, they should have jets for any r1

[rysskii3]

expecting to find bike carb jets at jegs? try motorcyclesuperstore.com thats where I buy all my motorcycle parts from, they should have jets for any r1

most places have stage 1, which is for mostly stock bike engine, and it doesnt say what size they are.

[yeayeayea]

most places have stage 1, which is for mostly stock bike engine, and it doesnt say what size they are.

A bike tuner will likely have a ton of jets for an R1, unless they dont keep stuff in stock for carbed bikes anymore.