Holy crap you're low haha. Glad to hear that you got it running. If the gasket sealer doesn't solve you're lean issue, how many turns out are you on your idle screws?
If you get the aba flange from him just tell him you need the spots cut out for the spark plug wires. He did it for me. Not sure why he has it solid.
And I emailed him asking why it is solid where spark plugs go and he wouldn't answer the question but said he would cut it that way. Came out like this:
I ordered a victor reinz MLS head gasket OEM for a ABA engine, for my 9A.
It lines up ok should work fine but the water channels are just round rather than conforming to the tryangle-ish shape on the block and head. Won't flow as well but looks useable.
Question is, haw many of these layers do I realy need? Looks to me like alot of them are just for filler. Am I wrong?
I installed the rebuilt head.
The "euro spec" (re-ground exhaust cam) intake cam was junk. The profile didn't look right from the start but once I installed it it slammed against the lifters clattering like a dry diesel fuel pump, only louder. So I installed a stock intake cam and it purrs again.
I checked my oil pressure to make sure the lifters were getting enough juice after I heard the ruckous, with a mechanical guage, (I was pretty sure my electronic guage didn't work becaust it was always pegged at 100psi) my oil pressure was way over spec 150 to 200 psi easy 100 at idle. I guess the relief valve on the oil pump failed, which explains alot.
It will cut out and die seamingly out of nowhere and the starter motor can hardly even crank it until it sits for a while because the oil pump gets compression stuck.
Too much oil pressure, I didn't see it coming.
Next week new oil pump.... And windage baffle.....maby more..
i wouldnt run this on a car i drive everyday, but id have a switch to shut off the fuel pump and run the carbs dry so the fuel wont just sit in the carbs. it will absolutely eat gaskets if it sits in there, but ive never heard of it eating the aluminum. i have a kart that runs on methanol and aside from the gaskets in the carb getting hard ive never noticed any sort of pits in the polished I.D. of the carb from fuel. im not saying your wrong, but ethanol and methanol are very similar and i was curious as to why methanol doesnt harm the aluminum in my cart, but ethanol would. e85 and carbs would be a pita to start up, but having the ability to run a real high compression bottom end and being able to handle some extra timing seems like it could net some healthy gains. chances are im just gonna give it a shot and see what happens. after all, all i gotta do is swap jets assuming a carter can flow enough. its not like its a big turbo car thats gonna need a ton of extra fuel. im just thinking out loud. any input is appreciated. id really like to hear from someone that has experimented with this before.
im pretty sure that they run methanol, like my kart. and he could be correct. im new to the methanol stuff as my kart is the first toy ive had that doesnt use gas. and since the super mods run meth he could be right. idk im gonna give it a shot someday and see how it holds up. fortunately these bike carbs are relatively cheap so if i did need some new bodies it wont cost much. i have a feeling it will take a long time for the ethanol to eat the aluminum. not to mention alot of these old heads will find all kinds of **** to blame on the "up to 10% ethanol added" gas.
How long does it usualy take to get the the warm up calibration on a Innovative LC-1 wideband air fuel set-up?
I'm also looking to upgrade my front upper strut mounts and I'm seeing alot more options than I expected. I hear that the mk3 or the vr6 mounts work well, but I want to know better which is best before I but there seems to be more than one option, which I didn't expect, but maby there are just alot of misrepresentative pictutes on ebay listings. A part # or a make and model refrence or I guess and hope for the best.
I'm currently running vr6 corrado monro struts with b3 gli passat springs on mk2 upper mounts and it's harsh, I need softer upper mount and cut the springs a bit.
I have vr6(late mk3) heavy duty front strut mounts and stock mk3 rear mounts. Rides fine but I'm also on air ride.
I've cut a few sets of springs and never liked it since some times when you jack it up or it jostles around too much the spring falls off the perch and possibly down a coil or two.
Just my 2 cents
Thanks guys, I found the lc-1 manual online since my computer is too old for the disk that came with it, windows xp must pre-date win 98 ( I'm not a computer guy) 9 blinks is low voltage my reverse light sensor was shorting out. I'm glad I now know.
I'll do the mk3 lowering upper perches with the mount, I don't think they should come off if I cut the springs in line with the axis of the origional position, I'll check out the blackforest link but it sounds like it shouldn't make much diffrence if I'm hearing you right, my poly lower bushings I'm sure play a role in my current discomfort with my set up. I'll play with it and see what I like.
Thanks for the input.
A couple from the BeMoreEuro meet this weekend couple hundred miles on it this weekend, was good to get it out of the driveway
Feel free to follow me on instagram @wesmurphy for pictures of bikes, bimmers, vws, etc
my "build" thread: 16v+carbs FOR SALE!!!
My gti is for sale, check it out! http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...7#post79821897
I've got a set of MK3 Nuespeed front Sport springs kicking around the garage I don't need. $20+shipping and they're yours!